IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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I.I 


U£|Z8     12.5 

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Itt  Uii    |2.2 

2f  HA   ■" 
1^   110    12.0 


1.8 


IL25  11.4   IIIIII.6 


VQ 


0% 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MA'.N  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14910 

(716)872-4503 


,<i^ 


^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


C 


.  fc 


T*chnical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notas  tachniquaa  at  bibliographiqutss 


rha  Instituta  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  bast 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagas  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


n 


D 


D 


D 


D 


Colourad  covars/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I      I    Covars  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagAa 


Covars  rastorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  rastaurte  at/ou  pallicuMa 


I      I   Covar  titia  missing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 

Colourad  maps/ 

Cartas  gAographiquas  an  coulaur 

Colourad  ink  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  black)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  biauc  ju  noira) 


I      I   Colourad  platas  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planchas  at/ou  illustrations  an  coulaur 

Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
RaliA  avac  d'autras  documants 

Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  intarior  margin/ 

La  raliura  sarrie  paut  causar  da  I'ombra  ou  da  li> 
distortion  la  long  da  la  marga  intiriaura 

Blank  laavas  addad  during  rastoration  may 
appaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  possibla.  thasa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  ca  paut  qua  cartainas  pagas  blanchas  ajoutAas 
lors  d'una  rastauration  apparaissant  dans  la  taxta, 
mais.  iorsqua  cala  Atait  possibia,  cas  pagas  n'ont 
pas  «t«  filmAas. 

Additional  commants:/ 
Commantairas  supplAmantairas; 


'H 


L'Inatitut  a  microfilm^  ia  maillaur  axamplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  At4  possibla  da  sa  procurar.  Las  details 
ds  cat  axamplaira  qui  sont  paut-Atra  uniquas  du 
point  da  vua  bibliographiqua.  qui  pauvant  modifiar 
una  imaga  raproduita,  ou  qui  pauvant  axigar  una 
modification  dans  la  mAthoda  normala  da  filmaga 
sont  indiqute  ci-dassous. 


I     I   Colourad  pagas/ 


D 
D 
D 
D 


D 


Pagas  da  coulaur 

Pagas  damagad/ 
Pagas  andommagias 

Pagas  rastorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Pagas  rastaurias  at/ou  pailiculAaa 

Pagas  discolourad,  stainad  or  foxad/ 
Pagas  dAcoior^s.  ta^hatAas  ou  piquAas 

Pagas  datachad/ 
Pagas  dAtachAas 

Showthrough/ 
Transparanca 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varias/ 


QuaiitA  inAgaia  da  i'imprassion 

Includas  supplamantary  matarial/ 
Comprand  du  material  supp?Amantaira 

Only  adition  availabia/ 
Sauia  Adition  disponibia 


T 

si 


3 

b« 

rll 
ra 
m 


Pagas  wholly  or  partially  obscurad  by  arrata 
slips,  tissuas,  etc..  hava  baan  rafilmad  to 
ansura  tha  bast  possibla  imaga/ 
Las  pagas  totaiamant  ou  partiallamant 
obscurcias  par  un  fauillat  d'arrata,  una  palura, 
ate.  ont  AtA  filmAas  A  nouvaau  da  fa^on  A 
obtanir  la  maillaura  imaga  possibla. 


This  itam  is  filmad  at  tha  reduction  ratio  chackad  balow/ 

Ca  documant  est  filmA  au  taux  da  rAduction  indiquA  ci-daaaous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

aox 

7 

n 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


itails 
s  du 
lodifiar 
r  une 
Image 


Th«  copy  filmad  h«r«  hat  baan  raproducad  thank* 
to  tha  ganaroaity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archivr  t  of  British  Columbia 

Tha  imagat  appearing  hara  ara  tha  baat  quality 
poaaibia  conaidaring  tha  condition  and  laglbillty 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  apacif icationa. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  a.id  ending  on 
the  iaat  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  Ail 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  pege  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  inchided  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'eKemplaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grice  *  la 
gAnArosit*  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Lea  images  suiventes  ont  At*  reproduites  evec  le 
plus  grand  soin.  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nattet*  da  I'axemplaira  film*,  et  en 
conformity  evec  ies  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmage. 

Les  exempiaires  originaux  dont  la  couvarture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sont  filmte  en  commen9ant 
par  le  premier  piat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  las  autres  exempiaires 
originaux  sont  fiimAs  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  unr  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
derniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — <►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  r«duction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  itre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  film«  A  pertir 
de  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas.  9n  prenant  la  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Las  diagrammas  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


rrata 
to 


pelure, 
lA 


H 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

S 

6 

47TII  roNOBKSS,  ) 


1«^  Session, 


SENATE. 


Ex.  Doo. 
No.  180. 


R  E  V  O  K  T 


OP 


AN   EXAMINATION 

OR  TUB 

UPPER  COLUMBIA  RIVKR 

AND 

THE  TERRITORY  IN  ITS  VICINITY 

IN 

SEPTEMBER   AND   OCTOBER,   1881, 

TO  DETEKMrNE  ITS  NAVIGABILITY,  AND  ADAPTABILITY  TO  STEAMBOAT 

TBANSI'OHTATION. 

MADR  BY  DIKECTION  OF  THE 

GOMMANDINe  GINKBAl  OF  THE  DKPAKTMENT  OF  THK  COLUMBIA, 


Lieut  THOMAS  W.  SYMONS, 

COHI-H  nt  KNOINI'KRa,   U.  B.   AHHY, 

CHIEF  ENQINKKK  OK  THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  THK  COLUMBIA. 


WASHINGTON: 

OOVEBNSIENT   PBINTINa  OFPIOB. 

1882. 


William  IT.  Floy 

COLLECTION. 


NO. 


47th  Conobess, 
l»t  Semion. 


SENATE. 


i  Kx.  I )(>(). 
)  No.  im. 


LETTER 


PKOM 


THE   SECRETARY   OF   WAR, 


TRAN8MITTINO 


In  regponne  to  Nenale  Re»olHtum  of  April  5,  1882,  a  letter  from  the  Vhivf 
of  KnginefTH  of  tjenterday'H  date,  and  the  aaxmpanifing  oopi/  of  a  report 
from  lAcut.  T.  W.  Wy;»«»j»,  Corpn  of  Engincern,  emhracing'nlf  the  infor- 
mation in  thin  Department  respecting  the  narigablc  waterit  of  the  Upper 
Columbia  River  and  it»  trihutaricH,  and  of  the  country  adjacent  thereto. 


Ai-KIL  ai,  188!i.— Kufemxl  to  tlio  Committee  on  Printing. 


WAB  DBPAltTMBNT, 
Washington  City,  April  a  I,  1882. 
Tlio  8«crotJtry  of  War  hivs  tlio  honor  to  transmit  to  tlie  Unittnl  SttitoM 
8cn»t«,  in  rosiwiiHe  to  tho  rosolution  of  that  boily  of  the  5th  iimfant, 
calling  for  information  on  tho  Hubjcct,  a  letter  from  the  Chief  of  Engi- 
neers of  yest^nlay's  date,  and  the  accompanying  copy  of  a  report  from 
Lieut.  T.  W.  Symons,  Cori)s  of  Engineers,  enibrm-ing  all  the  informa- 
tion in  this  departmei't  respecting  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Up;  or 
Oohimbia  River  and  its  tributaries,  and  of  the  resources  of  tlie  country 
aiya«ent  thereto. 

RQBEKT  T.  LINCOLN, 

SecreUtry  of  War. 
Tlie  President  pro  tern. 

of  the  United  Htate»  Senate. 


Office  of  the  Chief  op  Enoiisbkbs, 

United  States  Army, 
Washington,  J).  C,  April  'M,  1882. 
Sib:  I  have  tho  honor  to  return  herewith  the  rosolution  of  the  Senate 
of  the  Rth  April,  1882,  directing  the  Secretary  of  War  to  report  to  tlie 
Senate  of  the  United  States — 

Any  and  all  infunnatiuu  in  his  poBiiowiiiin  respoctiuK  tho  navigable  waters  ef  tJie 
Upper  Columbia  Kivcr  and  its  tributaries,  and  the  resources  of  the  country  through 


37610 


S  CULUMlilA    RIVEU. 

which  inch  navigable  wntuni  l>um,  anil  the  nhnraotvr  and  o<wt  of  iniprovomfsnU  ro- 
iliiirral  to  rnniler  Milil  Upticr  Coliimbiu  and  ita  trilmtarit'H  availnbin  for  piirpoiioii  of 
traiMiMirtalion;  .  ;d,  partlvnlarly,  snch  information  and  data  tu*  haii  liiwn  rollecUid 
niMin  Mid  iiibjevtit  by  LloDt.  T.  W.  8ynionH,  Chief  Engineer  of  the  l^upartuiout  of  the 
Colniubl*. 

And  in  nwponso  to  transmit  a  copy  of  the  report  of  Lient.  T.  W. 
SymonH,  Gorjts  of  BiiKin«orH,  wliidi  oiiibnu'«s  itH  the  inforrautiou  in  tliia 
otUcc  reHi)octing  the  niivigiilde  waterH  of  tlic  Up]H*r  Ooiunibia  Kivorand 
Hh  tributaries,  and  of  the  roHoiirccH  of  tliu  country  adjacent  thereto. 

The  examination  by  Lieutenant  Synions  was  nia<le  by  direction  and 
under  tlio  instructionH  of  the  coninianding  general,  Department  of  the 
Columbia. 

Very  rosiMSctftally,  your  ol)edient  servant, 

II.  O.  WHKIIIT, 
Chief  of  Engineers^  Brig,  and  Bvt.  Mnj.  (len. 
Hon.  ItoBKUT  T.  Lincoln, 

tkcniary  of  War. 


Washington,  D.  (3.,  April  3,  1883. 

Hiu:  During  tlie  months  of  Septemlwr  and  October,  1881,  in  compli- 
an«;e  with  orderafrom  Hrig.  Gen.  Nelson  A.  Miles,  commanding  Depart- 
ment of  the  (Columbia,  I  made  an  examination  of  the  Columbia  River, 
to  determine  its  navigability  and  the  advisability  of  putting  steam- 
boats on  it  to  lie  used  in  the  transportation  of  troops,  storeH,  supplies, 
&c. 

In  the  prosecution  of  this  duty  I  examined  the  river  at  the  Little  Dalles, 
Kettle  Falls,  and  Grand  Rapids,  and  traversed  the  river  in  a  small  boat 
from  the  last-named  rapids,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Colvillo  River,  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Snake  River,  making  its  careful  a  survey  tw  possible  with 
the  time  and  means  at  my  disposal. 

1  have  the  honor  to  transmit  herewith  a  report  on  the  examination 
ma«le,  with  a  map  of  the  river  on  a  scale  of  1  inch  to  2  miles,  and  maps 
on  a  larger  scale  of  several  of  the  obstructions  in  the  river. 

The  report  embraces  a  description  of  the  portion  of  the  river  exam- 
ined and  the  lands  in  its  vicinity,  and  also  of  the  other  portions  of  the 
Uppi^r  Columbia  ami  the  country  drained  by  it  and  its  tributaries,  de- 
rived from  my  observations  and  travels  during  the  past  four  years,  and 
from  a  careful  study  of  the  reports  and  writings  of  others. 

1  have  sought  to  show  the  economical  relations  of  the  Colundiia  to 
the  surrounding  country,  and  the  imiiortaucc  of  making  that  itortion  of 
it  lying  within  the  territory  of  the  United  States  navigable  as  far  as 
practicable,  and  have  suggested  a  plan  for  so  doing. 

I  have  atlded  to  this  a  historical  and  geological  arjcowni  of  the  Colum- 
bia, and  have  endeavored  to  give  a  clear  idea  of  the  fertile  and  extensive 


COMIMIMA    RIVEB.  3 

Oreat  Plain  oomposinp  tho  iiorfhorii  portion  of  tJio  interior  bnain  of  ilie 
Colunibin. 

It  is  believed  tliat  the  niapH  and  information  containe<l  in  this  ren<irt 
will  lH5  of  valne  in  tlie  navigation  of  the  Columbia,  in  any  qut^tions 
which  may  arise  in  connection  with  the  imnrovcment  of  the  river  to  all 
persons  who  take  an  interest  in  the  development  and  prosjierity  of  tho 
Northwest,  and  to  all  the  civil  ami  military  agents  of  the  government 
whose  duties  require  of  them  a  knowledge  of  the  (country  embraced. 

With  the  ai)proval  of  General  Miles  I  submit  this  rciwt  to  yon,  with 
the  request  that  it  be  publishe*!,  and  that  300  c«.pies  may  l)c  t^imishwl 
for  use  in  the  Department  of  tlie  Columbia. 

Very  i-espectAilly,  your  obedient  servant, 

THOMAS  W.  8YM0N8, 
First  Lieutenant  Corp»  of  Kngineerx. 
Bng.  Gen.  H.  G.  Wrioht, 

Chief  of  Engineers,  U.  8.  Army,  }Vashington,  I),  (l 


THE  UPPER  COLUMHIA   RIVER, 


AND  TIIK 


GREAT   PLAIN   OF  THE   COLUMHIA. 


CONTli^NTH. 


ClIAITKh   I. 

TUB  ITITKH  COM  MIIIA  idVKII  ABOV*  UlUXIi  IUnil«. 

KM'l«i.»l4.ry-TI.«  Littl..  l),,ll,.»_Ht,  an.or  "  41>"-  I,„,,n>ve  ,.rnl  of  l.iitl.-  I».ll.  ,-K„«,| 

fnun  Clvill..  U.  I,it»l«  IMIl.MK-Almv,  Uttl-  l»»ll«->f.»iK«l.l h-.U,  R«,.i.U_ 

(•|ianicJ.T  of  louiitry  nluiiK  rlvor— IVnd  .rOr»ni«  Hirer  .-,  'l.rk.V  Kurk-l'riHl 
«rOn5ilI«  L»ke-I)r.  HiickU-y-n  Jo.irimy  in  IK\%  fnmi  Fort  Oirrn  l«  V«i«y,nv..r- 
N.vijpil.iiity  of  Clnrko's  Kork-Mi««..l»  B«.i„-niuer  l£.«,t  ll.mi.uin,  .ml  Kivrr- 
Klk  City  trail-Bitter  R.H.t  V«lley-Mi«o,.l«  Riv,r-Hrll  (iuU^li^t  IxmIk*-!.!- 
Jlarkfoot-Llttlo  Hlaokfoot-KUthea.l  Rivrr-C„ri.e«n  l>rm.-J.K:koKiver-IU* 
Iu«4l  Idike-Hot  8|iriiiK  Crrok-NavignWIily  of  n«tb<«<l  Hivrr  and  Ijik.— KIk 
C.ly  tniil-Ix.u  Ixju  trail-Ska-ka  lio  i,am-AUvtu  I  A  If  or  p,m,-CUik„»  Fork  i.*— 
»j.liiiiatc  of  iirairiolnnU  in  Mimxila  IlaiiiD-K.H.Ifiiaj  nw.r-H.-t««!i,  I.itll..I>all,« 
an.l  (tiau.l  IU,.i,l»-M„,l«)i.  H,y  Fort-Briti«li  Fort  <;olville-<«,lviil,.  liHlian  K.«  r- 

v«li„n-C«lvlll«ValK.y-KortColviiI,.-Komli»-KeitleF.II.-<ir.i«lK,pid»-K.-tlto 
Klvvr. 

ClIAPTKH   II. 

GRAND  RAPIDS  TO  TUB  HrOKAXR  RIVKR. 

PrcpM«tloii8forthp  jonnicy-.Iolin  Ritkoy-Ol.l  Pierrr-Cr,»-Mr.  noKi.li.K-M.tlio.1 
of  iiiakiiiK  Btirvey— EstiinatiiiK  <lljt«iice»-I^avcRic-kev'.  liiii.lii.K-llrift  w.»«|  1{4«  k 
l«l«nil-Saii»  I'oil  Indian  settlunu-nt  and  River  Bar-Tartle  Ra|.id»-R„Ker>  Bar- 
EllH.w-Bcnd-Mitr«  Rock-Spokane  Rai-ida-Kaay  improvement  of  8,M.kai.,-  Rai.i.U- 
Conutry  alongthe  Colnnil.ia— Ueantiful  country— Cliinei»  minen-Spokaiie  River— 
CaiDp  8iK,kaufr-8,K.k«ne  Falls-Bridge  over  8i»k«ne  River-Ferry  overCoIumbia. 

ClIArTKH   III. 
COLUMBIA   HIVRR  KROM  TUB  SI-OKAXK  RIVBR  TO  LAKB  fllBLAN. 

Leave  8|mkane  River-Hawk  Creek-"  Vi>,^Dia  Bill  "-R«m1  fn.m  IIh-  <!n-at  I'lain  l» 
the  Colnmbia-Weleh  Creok-Wliitestone-Legend  aUmt  the  WI,it«tom— White- 
.toneCreek-Fri..dland«r'»-HellGate-8an«  Foil  River- JIa.n.notl.  8,.ring-(Jr»„d 
Coul«te-Moii8ghan'«  Rapid»-Ice-transiK)rte<l  bonldri»-t>,„iliI,rinm  Rapid»-N,»- 
pilem  River-Cannon  or  Maii-kin  i<ai  .i!»-Kalirhen  FalU  and  Whirlpool  Rapids- 
Excitement  of  itliooting  the  R»pid8-Fo»ter  Creek  R3pid»-Fo»lerCrwk-Okiuakan.- 
River-Okinakane  Indians-RonH  Cox-De«;ription  of  old  Fort  Okinakan.— 1»„« 
cure  of  con«umption-McClcllan'»  explorations-Importance  of  position  at  month 
of  Okinakane-Methow  River-Methow  Rapid»-McClellan-«ie,«rt  on  the  Methow 
coDDtry- Lake  Chelan— Chelan  Indiana— Hien«lyphic»— Camp  Chelan. 

7 


8 


COLUMBIA    BIVKB. 


Chaptkr  IV. 

LAKK  CIIKLAN  TO  8KAKK  RIVBR. 

Cbolaii  CnMjk— Dowiiiiin'N  Rapids— Kililion  BlnfT— Eiitiatqiia  Rivor— Entii»t<iua  Bar — 
Loii((viow  INiiiit— WnintcheeRlvor — Wouatchoe Bar — Rock  Islanil  RapiiU— Cnbinot 
RitpidH — Victoria  Rock — Biwaltic  BIiiAm — I>o<lge  Stick  Bluff— Cor.lrtn  iiioiitliH— Uiial- 
qiiil  RiipidH — iHland  Ra{iiilH — Crab  Croek  CoiiWo — Sontinel  Bliiftti — Pri«Ht  Rapidx — 
Wliito  Bliifl'M— Wliitc  BliitVo  Dnpot — Yakima  Rivor  and  Valloy-Naclioso  River  and 
Valley — Ataliiiaiii  C'reok — I'iHko  Croek — Liimboriiig  on  the  Yakima — Snako  Rivor — 
Ainawoi'th — Character  of  Indian  crew — Arrive  at  Vancoiiver. 

CUAPTRR  V. 
'  '  TABLE  OK   PI8TANCR8  OX  TlfR  COLUMHIA    RIVKR. 

Chaptkr  VI. 

NAVIGATION   OF  THE  COI.l'MnlA    HIVER. 

Willamette  to  the  8ca — CaHcades  to  the  Willamette — The  Dalloo — PortioiiB  of  river  at 
prt'wtiit  iiavi(;atcd — Couutry  bendited  by  iiiiprovunient8  at  the  CaHcaden;  at  the 
DallcH;  at  PricHt  Rapids;  at  Cabinet  and  Rock  Island  Rapids— Bars — BoneHts  from 
impi-ovinK  the  Nnspileni  Rapids ;  Hell  Gate ;  S|iokaue  Rapids — General  considera- 
tioim  on  the  improvement  of  the  river — Improvement  at  Priest  Rapids — Boat  rail- 
way iwlvocated — Facilities  fnniished  by  railway — Tyi>e  of  boats  to  use — Rise  and 
fall  of  the  rivor — Improvement  of  Cabinet  and  Rock  Island  Rapids — Improvenioiit 
of  the  Nf  spilem  Rapids— Summary  of  improvements  advocated— Cost  of  inipi-ove- 
inunts — Other  possible  uiethoils  of  improvement — Grand  Rapids,  Kettle  Falls,  and 
Little  Dalles — Portage  about  these  rapids — Portage  system  on  the  Columbia — Cap- 
tain Piugstoue's  report  on  the  Upper  Columbia. 

Chapter  VII. 

OENBKAI.  DK8CRIPTON  OK  TUB  COLUMBIA   AND  ITS  TRIBUTARIES. 

Importance  of  internal  water  communication — Drainage  areas — The  Snake  Rivor — 
Lake  Bonneville— FallH— Tributaries  of  Snake  River- Salmon  River — Clearwater 
River — Palonso  River — Upper  Columbia — Canoe  River — Portage  River — Commit- 
tee's Punch-bowl — Athabasca  Pass — Journey  across  the  Athabasca  Pass — Boat  oii- 
uainpmeut — Beautiful  Cataract — Selkirk  and  Gold  Ranges — Dalles  des  mort« — City 
of  Ro<:ks — Little  Narrows— Terrible  story  of  hardship — Arrow  Lakes — Kootoaay 
River — Clarke's  Fork — Fliilhead  Rivor  and  Lake -Pend  d'Oreille  Lake — Spokane 
Klver — Okinakane  River — Lower  tributaries. 


Chapter  VIII. 

III8TORV  OK    the   KI8COVERY   AND   EXPLORATION  OK  THE  COLU-MBIA   RIVER. 

Pope  Alexander  VI— Treaty  of  Partition  of  the  Ocean — Search  for  passage  to  India — 
Spanish  colonies  and  explorations — Discovery  of  Pacific  Ocean — Straits  of  >nian — 
Straits  of  Magellan — Coni|uest  of  Mexico— Explorations  along  North  American 
coasts — Proposed  Isthmian  Canal — Russian  dihcoviirios — llecata's  discovery  of  the 
Columbia — Explorations  into  the  interior  ironi  the  East — Captain  Jonathan  C.trvor 
— Oregon  Rivor— Meaning  of  Oregon — Fur  trailo  with  China — Mearo's  discovery — 
Discoveries  and  voyages  of  Gray  and  Kcndrick — Gray's  Harbor — Discovery  of  the 
Columbia  River  by  Gray— Broughton's  examination— Expedition  of  Levis  and 
Clarke — Aster's  Pacific  Fur  Company — Tominin — Hunt's  Land  Exi>cdition— North- 
west For  Company — Thompson's  voyage  down  the  Columbia— Fort  Okinakane — 
Spokane  House — Explorations  of  the  I<'ur  Traders — Astoria  transferred  to  North- 
west Fur  Company — Fort  Ne«  Perci5  or  Walla  Walla  -Consolidation  of  Northwest 
and  Hudson  Bay  FurCompanies — Fort  Vancouver — Captain  Bonneville — Captain 
Wilkes — Lieutenant  Johnson — Captain    Fremont — Title  of  Oregon   confirmed    to 


COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


9 


United  SUUiH— OrKiiiiijiiition  of  Orogoii  Territory— DiHCOvnry  of  gold  in  Ciilifoniiu 
— I'licilic,  Rnilroad  SiirvoyH— Warron's  Map  of  tli«'  United  StiT  h— Mllilary  Map  of 
Dupartnitint  of  tliu  Coliimliia— Need  of  further  HiirvojH  in  nepartniciit  of  Mio  O'o- 
liiinttia. 

ClIAPTKIi  IX.  , ; 

TIIK  flKOLOOICAL  1II8TOI1Y  OK  TIIK  CASCAIIK  MOUNTAINS  AND  TIIK  COt.lTMIlIA   UIVRIt. 

Paloo/.oin  Era— Rocky  Mountain  cliain- Sierra  Nevada  and  CaHoadi'  Han){cs— Oorjje 
of  Columbia  throuRli  CiwcadeN— Upheaval  of  CoaHt  KauRe— Fitwurc  Kruptiotis  friini 
the  Cascades— Great  hiva  How— Fissure  eruptionH  cliaiiKed  to  eratcr  eruptiorm— 
Mount  Pitt— Mount  Scott— Union  Peak— Crater  Lake- Klamath  Hiwin  and  LakeH  ■ 
Elevated  Region- Diamond  Peak— Odell  Lake— UeHcliutes  River— UaviH'  Lake- 
Throe  Hinters- Mount  Jortoraon— Monnt  Hood— Mount  Adanm— Saint  IleleuH— 
Ranier  or  Taconia— Recent  eruptions  of  Mount  Saint  Helens- Voloanie  activity 
of  Mount  Hood— NachesH  Pass— Yakima  Valley— Sentinel  Blutrs— Yakima  Pam— 
Wenatoheo  MonntniuH- Si«ikaue  River— Limestone  and  granite- Oreat  Masin- 
Tertiary  Uplieaval— Post  Tertiary  Oscillationg- Olaeial  Epoch— Pend  d'Oreille 
Tertiary  Heds— Glacier- Spokane  Plains— (ilacier  l.-ikes- ^/iciciif  /.ah:  Uwiii— 
Charaplain  and  Terrace  Epoch- Puget  Sound— I'onnation  of  River  Canons. 

ClIAPTKU  X. 
THK  QRKAT  PLAIN  OF  TIIK   COLUMUIA. 

Area— Bunch-grass— Soil— Production— Test  of  soil— Drawbacks- Sag.i-hrush  lands- 
Combat  of  sage-brush  and  bunch-grass— Statististics  of  prodnetl  venoss— Di  viNion  of 
the  Great  Plain— Pai.ou.sk  skction— Scab  Itud— Steptoo  Hutte— l»arallelism  of 
streams— Paloiise  Falls— Legeud—SPOKANK  Skction— General  features— Divide 
botwt^en  Crab  Creek  and  the  Spokane  River— Railroads— Siiokane  Piiiins— Spokane 
Falls— Cceur  d'Alfine  Lake— Medical  Lakes— Chah  Cuiskk  ani>  Gkand  Coi!i,i;;i.: 
Skction— Inhabitants— Camp  Chelan— Ritzville  to  Camp  Chelan- Grand  Conli^e- 
Middle  Pass  of  Grand  Couldo— Moses  Coul(5e— FoMt<T  Creek— Badger  Mountain- 
Railroads— Commercial  centers— M08B.S'  Lake  or  Dkmkut  Skction— A'leient  Lake 
—Crab  Creek— Moses' Lake— Account  of  jonrnny  across  Moses'  Lake  and  Grand 
Conl6e  Sections— Lack  of  water- Black  Rock  Si>ring— Crab  Creek— Pilot  Roek 
and  Grand  Coul<5o— Lake  Chelan— Walla  Walla  Section— Yakima  Skctkin— 
Lkwiston  ani>  Mount  Idaho  SKCTio.v-Craig's  Mountains— Great  duiudalion— 
Camas  prairies. 

ClIAPTKK  XI. 

OEOORAPIIICAL  NOMENCLATUllK   OF  TIIK  COLU.MBIA   UIVEU   IIKOION. 

Origin  of  names— Cmur  d'Aldno— Palonse- Spokaiu>— Okiimkano— Nez  Perc<^— Flat- 
head—Columbia  River— Snake  River- Yakinui—DesClmtes—Unmtilla—Hangniiin's 
Creek— Rock  Creek— Union  Flat  Creek— Pine  Creek— Steptoe  Bntlj!— Wenatehee— 
Methow— Lawyer's  Creek — Tacoma.  ,' 

Map  Illustrations.  > 

Little  Dalles. 
Kettle  Falls. 

Grand  Rapids.  -v     r 

Spokane  Kapids  and  vicinity.  '■,:•• 

Rock  Island  Rapids.  »  < 

Victoria  Rock. 

Glimitse  of  the  Grand  Coulee. 

Map  of  Columbia  River  from  the  boundary  to  Snake  River— 3.1  Hlieel*4. 
Skeleton  map  of  the  Upper  Columbia  from  Department  map,  showing  location  of 
river  shoetu  and  ancient  Lake  J^wis. 
S   Kx.  ISfi 2 


:ifA-  , 


CIIAPTKK    I. 

THIS  DPl'JSU  VOLUMUIA  KIVKll  ABOVE  OKANl)  UAl'lUS. 
EXPLANATORY. 

During,'  the,  nioiillisof  SeptenibenuKlOLtolHirof  theyoar  1881  I  miul« 
a  voyage  iii  a  bateau  down  the  Columbia  Kiver from  theColvillo  VaJloy 
to  Aiiisworth,  at  the  iiioutL  of  the  Siiakc  Kiver,  making  as  (;i>rerul  ii 
Hurvey  of  tbc  river  and  examination  of  the  rapids  as  the  time  ai-  \  means 
at  my  disposal  would  permit.  I  also,  while  performing  the  dtai.-s  re- 
quired of  me  in  the  Colville  Valley,  made  au  examination  of  the  Little 
Dalles,  and  of  a  portion  of  the  river  between  the  Little  Dalles  and 
Kettle  Falls. 

The  country  about  the  Columbia  and  its  tributary  streams  is  rapi<lly 
liliing  np  with  settlers  and  attaining  an  importance  which  it  hm  never 
before  had,  and  this  influx  of  people  is  certain  to  continue  for  a  long 
time  Xb  come,  while  there  are  large  tracts  of  flue  land  available  lor  set- 
tlement. 

The  time  is  not  far  distant  when  the  question  of  water  transportation 
on  these  upper  portions  of  the  river  will  demand  the  attention  of  the 
government.  I  therefore  propose  to  make  as  careful  and  as  full  a  roi)ort 
concerning  this  river,  its  navigability,  and  economic  relations,  and  con- 
cerning the  country  adjoining  it,  as  I  am  able  to  do,  giving  also  maps  <»f 
the  river  showing  the  obstructions,  rocks,  rapids,  bars,  &c.,  on  a  stiale  of 
two  miles  to  the  inch,  with  nnvps  on  a  larger  scale  of  some  of  the  prin- 
cipal obstructions. 

THE  LITTLE  DALLES. 

The  Little  Dalles  is  situated  by  river  fifteen  miles  south  of  the  point 
where  the  Columbia  crosses  the  British  line,  and  about  twewtysix  miles 
above  Kettle  Falls. 

The  canon  of  the  Columbia  is  hero  deep  and  narrow,  and  no  bottom 
lauds  lie  along  the  river.  The  1  )alles  are  caused  by  a  contraction  of  the 
channel,  the  limestone  blutts  which  form  the  banks  of  the  river  proji-ct- 
ing  into  the  stream,  and  damming  back  the  water  into  a  deep,  cjuiet 
stretch  above.  The  fall  here  is  inconsiderable,  and  I  believe  the  plaeo 
could  be  improved  for  navigation  .hiring  low  and  modiutn  sttiges  of  the  ; 
river  by  clearing  away  some  of  bhe  projecting  iwints  of  the  blutts  and 
the  small  rock  islands  in  the  stream.  Years  ago,  when  the  excitement  . 
about  the  gold  mines  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Columbia  and  Fraser 

11 


12 


COI.IJMHIA    UIVKU. 


r 


I'ivorH  wiiH  at  itH  lieiglit,  a  Htvamer  was  built  Lore  nud  ran  fruni  tlio 
Little  J)alleH  up  tliu  river  for  a  distance  of  about  225  miles  to  Death 
Itai'ids,  traim|tortiiig  supjdies  and  carrying  passengers.  This  stininier, 
the  "49,"  during  the  low  st^iges  of  the  water,  used  at  times  to  be  taken 
down  to  Kettle  Falls,  going  through  the  Little  Dalles,  and  being  lined 
biu^k  over  them.  The  tree  was  pointed  out  to  which  she  used  to  nniku 
fiuit  in  ascending  the  rapids. 

1  estimate  that  the  removal  of  -tOjOOO  cubic  yards  of  rock,  limestone, 
would  make  a  good,  clear  channel  through  which  steamers  could  pass  up 
ami  down  at  all  stages  of  water.  The  limestone  rock  would  bo  very 
easily  worked,  and  could  Ik;  rciwlily  disposed  of. 

A  good  portage  wagon  n»ad  exists  now  around  these  Little  Dalles. 

The  iom\  to  the  Little  Dalles  leaves  Fort  (Jolville  and  follows  down 
the  valley  of  Mill  Creek  to  its  junction  with  Echo  Valley,  up  which  it 
goes  as  far  as  Bruce's  ranch.  From  this  latter  point  it  bears  westwanl 
through  a  gap  in  the  hills  aud  reaches  the  Columbia  Klver  by  an  easy 
descent,  and  follows  along  ita  left  bank  to  the  rapids.  During  the  old 
mining  excitement  quit  a  town  was  started  here,  which  has  been 
almost  completely  destroyed  by  Are,  the  principal  vestige  of  its  former 
grandeur  being  the  numerous  signs  still  remaining  along  the  road 
telling  travelers  where  to  buy  their  merchandise. 

The  road  is  very  good  all  the  way,  the  principal  travelers  over  it 
being  the  Chinamen  who  are  eugage<l  iu  mining  on  the  upper  river  aud 
who  go  to  Colville  for  their  supplies. 

COLUMBIA  BIVEB  ABOVE  TUB  LITTLE  DALLES. 

Captain  Pingstone,  of  the  Oregon  llailway  and  Navigation  Company, 
states  that  above  the  Little  Dalles  the  Columbia  is  navigable  for  280 
miles  to  Death  llapids,  and  that  he  himself  has  navigated  it  on  the 
steamer  "49"  to  this  point.  This  distance  I  believe  to  be  considerably 
overestimated,  and  that  it  is  really  about  225  miles.  This  is  the  dis- 
tance given  by  the  voyageurs  of  the  Iludson  Bay  Fur  Company  who 
navigated  the  river  in  their  bateaux. 

The  country  through  which  this  navigable  portion  flows  is  mountain- 
ous as  a  general  thing.  There  are,  however,  large  areas  of  rather  level 
ground,  especially  alon  a;  the  enlargements  of  the  river  known  as  the 
Arrow  Ijakes.  I  have  l)een  informed  that  along  these  Arrow  Lakes  lies 
one  of  the  finest  l^lts  of  timber  known  to  man — oedar,  white  pine,  and  flr 
of  large  size  and  of  the  most  excellent  quality  t,'i-owing  in  great  abun- 
dance. Upon  those  portions  of  the  river  beyond  the  navigable  limit 
there  is  also  a  vast  quantity  of  tine  timber  which  will  at  some  time  in 
the  future  become  very  valuable  and  be  brought  to  market  on  ami  in 
the  waters  of  the  Colunjbia. 

Concerning  the  interior  of  the  country  away  from  the  river  in  this 
extreme  upi)er  portion  very  little  is  known.  From  all  that  I  can  learn 
respecting  it,  it  would  seem  certain  that  it  is  largely  composed  of  tim- 


COLUMHU    HIVEK. 


13 


boi-uil  (Mill  barruii  iiiouiitniiiH,  with  horu  und  there  hoiuu  tliiu  viilluyH  tiiid 
many  uxtuiisive  tniota  of  hilly  country  voverotl  with  buiiuh-KriMH,  ami  it 
is  my  belief  tliat  the  climate  in  not  so  rigorouH,  but  that  it  will  moiuu 
day  be  very  extensively  used  for  pastoral  pur[>o8us,  as  well  as  largely 
brought  under  cultivation  and  made  to  uiinister  to  the  wautM  of  man. 

It  is  certtkir.  that  upon  the  upper  waters  of  the  Okinakane,  from  lifty 
to  seventy-five  miles  to  the  west  of  the  Columbia,  much  Hue  land  exists, 
and  there  settlers  have  alrettdy  found  homes. 

I'BND  D'OUEILLK  KIVER  OR  CLAUKE'S  FOUK. 

Just  north  of  the  boundary  line  the  Columbia  receives  from  the  oast 
the  waters  of  the  Pond  d'Ureille  Uiveror  Clarke's  Fork  of  the  Columbia, 
which  is  described  in  the  lower  portion  of  its  course  as  being  a  tem- 
])estuous  unnavigable  stream,  full  of  rocks,  rapids,  and  falls,  flowing 
through  a  deep  and  rugged  caiion,  discluvrging  its  waters  into  the  Co- 
lumbia witli  a  great  roar  over  a  fall  flfteen  feet  in  height.  About  the 
headwaters  of  this  river  and  Pond  d'Oreille  Lake  immense  bodies  of  line 
timber  are  known  to  exist;  many  rich  mines  have  been  discovered,  »» 
well  as  a  quarry  of  the  finest  marble.  Pend  d'Ort'Ue  Lake  is  naviga- 
ble nearly  throughout  its  entire  extent  and  the  river  below  the  lake  is 
reported  by  Dr.  Suckley,  in  1853,  to  be  navigable  for  thirty  miles,  when 
a  fall  of  six  and  a  half  fetit  is  met  with.  Dr.  Suckley,  while  connected 
with  the  Pacific  Ilailroad  surveys,  started  October  15,  1853,  froui  Fort 
Owen  on  the  Bitter  Eoot  Hiver  in  a  canoe  made  from  three  bullocks' 
hides,  and  a  crew  of  two  white  men  and  an  Indian.  No  one  knew  any- 
thing of  the  character  of  the  river  ahead  of  them,  and  it  was,  therefore, 
necessary  to  proceed  with  great  caution.  The  Bitter  Boot  was  found 
quite  shallow  in  many  places,  and  the  canoe,  which,  when  loaded,  drew 
only  ton  inches,  had  frequently  to  be  lightened  until  he  passed  the  Hell 
Gate  River.  About  sixty  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Hell  Gate,  the 
mountains  crowd  clof»e  upon  the  river,  making  it  very  rapid,  but  further 
down  it  is  straighter,  deeper,  and  more  sluggish,  with  large  flats  on  one 
or  both  sides. 

The  Horse  Plains  are  Just  below  the  junction  of  the  Flathead  Itiver 
with  Clarke's  Fork,  and  from  this  point  to  Saint  Ignatius  Mission  ho 
proceeded,  passing  through  the  lake  and  making  two  portages.  He 
says  that  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  were  formerly  in  the  habit  of  carry- 
ing up  their  goods'from  the  foot  of  Pent!  d'Oreille  Lake  to  Horse  Plains 
in.  largo  boats,  making  two  portages  on  the  way — one  probably  at  a 
point  nine  miles  above  the  lake,  and  one  at  the  Cal)inet,  fifteen  miles 
above  the  lake. 

Below  the  lake  there  is  no  obstruction  to  navigation  for  about  thirty 
miles,  when  a  fall  of  six  and  a  half  feet  is  met  with.  From  this  fall  to 
the  point  uino  miles  above  the  lake,  he  thinks  that  steamers  drawing 
from  twenty  to  twenty-four  inches  could  easily  ascend,  and  in  high 
water  the  distance  might  be  increased  from  sixty  to  one  hundre«l  miles, 


14 


COLUMUIA    KIVER. 


ur  from  a  itoint  iilMHit  ton  iiiiloa  l>olow  thit  initwioii  to  tliu  Oul)iii«>t,  fitlvuu 
miles  nlwve  thu  litke.  Ho  8»yH  that  at  the  fallfl  a  lock  might  easily  be 
uuiiHtruvtctl  HO  as  to  admit  of  navigation  at  all  HoaHous. 

At  the  Cabinet  the  river  is  compresHud  between  rocks  about  one  hun. 
dro«l  feet  in  height,  and  becomes  very  rapid  and  narrow,  so  that  thu 
poHHibility  of  passing  through  with  steamboats  is  uncertain. 

At  the  mission  the  Fathers  being  deeply  impressed  with  the  unnavi- 
gability  luid  dangers  of  the  river  below,  and  having  an  eye  to  his  safety, 
refnse<l  to  let  Dr.  Huckley  have  a  canoe  or  an  Indian  guide,  and  so  he 
did  not  examine  the  river  fVoni  this  point  to  its  junction  with  the  Colum- 
bia. He  says,  however,  that  from  wliat  information  he  could  gather,  he 
might  have  descended  the  river,  proceeding  ciuitiously  and  nniking  jrart- 
ag«)s,  though  the  Indians  were  not  in  the  habit  of  going  by  that  route. 
Tliis  is  i»robably  the  worst  portion  of  the  river  for  purposes  of  nuvi 
gation. 

The  doctor  proceeded  overland  to  Fort  Colville  and  embarke<l  on  the 
Columbia  below  the  falls,  and  on  the  (itlidayof  December  retuihed  Van- 
couver, having  gone  all  the  way  by  water  except  such  portages  as  were 
necessary. 

I  have  never  seen  Dr.  Suckley's  narrative  of  his  trij) ;  it  is  condense«l 
almut  as  above  in  Governor  Stovcns'  Paciflc  Kailroad  reiwrt. 

C'larke's  Fork  in  its  upper  [wrtions  drains  a  very  beautiful  and  renuirk- 
able  country — that  lying  Iwtween  the  Uocky  Mountains  pr()i)er  and  the 
spur  known  iw  the  Bitter  lioot  and  C(eurd'AICuie  Mountains.  This  great 
bitsin  for  which  I  would  suggest  the  name  of  ^^ Missoula  Basin,"  is  luoba- 
bly  formed  almost  entirely  by  the  erosion  of  the  Croat  liocky  Mountain 
I'hiteau.  The  liocky  Mountain  chain,  extonding  to  Mie  northwestwartl 
thivugh  Wyoming,  branches  in  the  latitude  of  about  45°  Sty ;  one  branch 
extonding  to  the  east  and  northetist  for  about  <J0  miles ;  the  tttber  branch 
sti'etches  to  the  west  aud  northwest  about  H5  miles;  the  two  branches 
then  continue  in  about  the  same  general  direction  to  the  northwest  until 
beyond  the  boundary  line,  where  they  are  about  13o  miles  apart.  At 
about  the  53il  degree  of  latitude  they  come  together  again  iu  the  region 
separating  the  waters  of  the  Columbia  aud  Fruser  liivers.  The  western 
backb<me  of  the  liocky  Mountains  is  known  by  different  names iudi Iter- 
ent  parts  of  its  extent.  The  southern  x)ortiou  is  called  the  Bitter  Itoot 
Mountains ;  then  .jomes  the  Ciuur  d'Alune  Mountains  in  the  vicinity  of 
Clarke's  Fork,  and  the  Cabinet  Mountains  forming  tfie  dividing  ridge 
Iwtweon  this  river  and  the  Koot^snay.  Still  further  north  it  is  the  Sel- 
kirk Range  separating  the  Kootonay  from  the  Columbia,  and  extending 
along  the  Columbia  and  Canoe  rivers  until,  at  the  headwaters  of  the 
latter,  it  merges  with  the  main  backbone. 

The  main  range  of  the  liocky  Mountains,  which,  between  the  sources 
of  Snake  River  and  the  Three  Porks  of  the  Missouri,  has  a  high  alti- 
tude, aud  continues  to  be  elevated  along  the  region  where  the  Jcflersou 
Fork  has  its  source,  begins  to  fall  soon  after  it  branciies  to  the  emt. 


COLUMIilA    RIVKR. 


15 


The  (lividci,  from  tliJH  p«»iiit,  iniikcH  n  Kr«'nt  iNMid  to  tlio  onflt  luul  tlien  ii 
rt^tiirn  Im-imI  to  tlio  wo«t,  forming  nearly  n  Hoinicirclo,  fVoiii  wliicli  flow 
fltroiiiiiH  to  CliU'knV  Fork.  The  »<eini«'irclti  eoiiiinenceH  nt  tlio  Hig  IIolu 
Priiirio,  where  yoii  jtatw  from  the  Bitter  lloot  Uiver  to  the  tipiM^r  trihn- 
tarieH  of  Wiwhiiii  Uiver,  ami  inuy  Im»  Haiti  t«  end  at  the  gates  of  Hun 
Hiver.  I\n  nuliuH  Ih  eighty  niih'«  anil  it«  |»erii»hery  one  hnnilriMl  inile.s, 
tlie  eent«r  btnng  near  the  junetion  of  Hell  Oat«'  and  hi'*er  INwit  rivers. 
Tlirongli  this  entin>  distanci*  the  whole  chain  is  brokcii  down,  att'onl- 
ing  great  nninl>ers  of  p)VHh4eH,  all  of  them  having  an  altituile  not  far  from 
(>,(HH)  feet  almve  the  sea.  (l^oing  north  from  the  gates  of  8iin  Uiver 
the  mountains  rise  in  elevation,  so  that  when  we  come  to  our  iMiundary 
]>arallel  the  heights  of  the  passes  exMH;d  7,4MN)  feet  almve  the  sea. 

The  country  lying  lu'tween  the  tw«»  great  Iwu-klwims  of  the  Umsky 
Mountains,  and  esiHH;ially  that  lM>,autiful  region  whose  stn'ams,  tlowing 
fi-om  the  great  mouulainons  semicircle  altove  mentioiie<l,  pass  thningh 
a  delightful  gnizing  and  arable  imintry  and  And  their  cxinttuence  in  the 
Hitter  Itoot  or  Missoula  Uiver,  has  Ikhmi  ably  descrilieil  in  the  Piusifit; 
Uailroiul  reiM>rt8  of  (Jovemor  Stevens.  As  these  reports  are  out  of 
print  and  very  difHcult  to  be  jirocunMl,  I  gi\  the  description  of  the 
country  as  pnblisheil  in  these  rcitorts,  only  leaving  out  some  unini))or- 
taut  details  of  the  surveys  and  making  some  slight  changes  and  luldi- 
tioiiH.  From  the  Big  Hole  Prairie  on  the  south  the  Bitter  Uoot  Uiver 
flows  due  north ;  it  has  a  branch  from  the  southwest  known  as  Nez  Pen>d 
(.'reek,  up  which  go<;s  a  trail  much  useil  by  Indians  and  voyngeurn  pass- 
ing to  the  Nez  Perc<5  country  and  Walla  Walla.  This  is  now  known  as 
the  KIk  City  trail.  The  Bitter  Itoot  Valley  above  Hell  (iate  Uiver  is 
al)out  eighty  miles  long  and  from  three  to  t«Mi  in  width,  having  a  dire<?- 
tion  north  and  south  from  the  sonrc^^sof  Bitter  lioot  Uiver  to  it^  junc- 
tion with  the  Hell  Oate.  Besides  the  outlet  alravo  mentioned  to  the 
Clearwater  and  Walla  Walla  countries,  which  is  the  most  diflicult,  it 
has  an  excellent  natural  wagon-road  communication  at  itA  .lead  by  the 
Big  Hole  Pass  to  Jetferson  Fork,  Fort  Hall,  and  other  i»oints  soiith- 
wartl,  as  well  as  by  the  Hell  Gate  routes  to  the  eastward.  From  the 
lower  end  of  the  valley  it  is  believe«l  tl»at  the  river  is,  or  can  be  miule," 
navigable  for  small  steamers,  for  long  distances  at  lea^t,  thus  affording 
an  easy  outlet  for  its  products  in  the  natural  direction.  This  refers  to 
that  portion  of  the  river  now  called  the  Missoula.  Hell  Gate  is  the 
delmuchS  of  all  the  consiilerable  streams  which  unit*  with  the  Bitter 
Root  eighty-five  miles  below  its  source  at  the  Big  Hole  divide.  The 
distance  from  Hell  Gate  to  its  junction  with  the  Bitter  Root  is  fifteen 
miles.  It  must  not  be  understood  by  the  term  Hell  Gate  that  here 
is  a  narrow  passage,  with  jteriMMidicnlar  bluffs;  on  the  contrary,  it  is 
a  wide,  open,  and  easy  piuw,  in  no  case  being  less  than  a  half  mile  wide, 
and  the  banks  not  subject  to  overflow  at  all.  Here  the  Big  Bhuikfoot 
joins  the  Hell  Gate  River. 

The  Hell  Gate  itself  drains  the  semicircle  of  the  Rocky  Monntains 


16 


COKUMBIA   RIVER. 


from  piu-iillol  45^  45'  U>  parnllol  4<P  30',  a  diHtiiiico  on  tlio  iliviile  of  oiKlity 
iiiilcH,  TIk!  main  tributary  Htnuun  of  tlio  Hell  Gate  imiihiich  nearly  a 
nortlierly  conrae  for  Hixty-Hvc  inileH,  then  rce^iivPH  llio  waiters  of  the 
Little  Blackfoot  Uiver,  and  continnint;  the  general  direction  north 
llfty  (hfgrees  west  for  forty-eiKlit  Hiiles,  receivea  the  waterH  of  the 
lUg  lilaekfoot.  The  upper  waters  of  thiH  river,  now  known  as  Deer 
Lod^'e  Uivor,  ex)nneot  with  the  Wisdom  Kiver  over  a  low  and  easy 
divide,  over  wliieli  the  Northern  Pacitic  Uailroiul  is  now  iHMug  built. 
Moving  down  this  valley  forrtfteen  miles,  we  come  to  a  most  beautiful 
l)rairie,  known  as  the  Deer  L«)dge,  a  great  resort  for  game  and  a  favorite 
resting-place  for  the  Indians ;  mild  through  the  wint<tr  an«l  aftbrding  in- 
exhaustablo  grass  the  year  round.  The  remarkable  Boiling  Springs  are 
in  this  ]>rairie,  which  is  watered  by  many  streams,  those  coming  from 
the  east  having  their  sources  in  the  Uo<!ky  Mountain  divide,  and  those 
coming  from  the  west  in  the  low,  rolling,  open  country  between  the 
Deer  Lodge  and  Hitter  lloot  rivers. 

The  Little  Blackfoot  is  one  of  the  most  impo''<ant  streams  in  the  line 
of  communication  through  this  whole  mountain  region  ;  it  has  an  open, 
well  grassiMi,  and  arable  valley,  with  sweet  cottonwood  on  the  stream 
and  pine  generally  on  the  slopes  of  the  hills;  but  the  forests  are  quite 
open,  and  both  on  the  northern  and  southern  sides  there  is  much  jirai- 
rie  country.  The  divides  between  the  Little  and  Big  Blackfoot,  as  well 
ns  between  the  former  and  the  tributaries  to  the  south,  are  low,  grassed, 
and  much  of  them  arable.  The  Little  Blackfoot  lliver  furnishes  two 
outlets  to  the  country  to  the  east,  by  the  southern  and  middle  branches 
of  Prickly  Pear  Creek.  There  is  another  tributary  of  the  Little  Black- 
foot which  may  furnish  a  good  pass  to  the  plains  of  the  Missouri ;  it 
comes  in  a  little  way  above  its  junction  with  the  Hell  Gate.  Passing 
down  Ilell  (rate  River  from  its  junction  with  the  Little  Bljujkfoot,  we 
conic  to  several  streams  flowing  in  from  the  south,  the  principal  ones 
I)eing  Flint  and  Stony  Creeks.  On  these  are  prairie8  as  large  as  the 
Deer  Lodge  prairie,  and,  in  fact,  the  whole  country  between  t  le  Deer 
Lodge  and  Bitter  Root  consists  much  more  of  prairie  than  of  forest 
laud. 

The  Hell  Gate  River  is  thus  seen  to  be  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
long,  draining  the  broad  and  fertile  Deer  Lodge  prairie,  which  is  esti- 
mated to  contain  eight  hundred  s(iuare  miles  of  arable  land.  Then, 
taking  a  direction  more  transverse  to  the  mountains,  its  valley  contin- 
ues from  two  to  five  miles  wide  until  its  junction  with  the  Big  Bhvckfoot 
at  Hell  Gate,  after  which  it  widens  out  to  unite  with  the  valley  of  the 
Bitter  lioot.  On  this  part  of  it  there  are  at  least  oni  hundred  and  fifty 
square  miles  of  fine  arable  laml  in  the  valley,  and  much  grazing  prairie 
on  the  adjoining  hills.  Around  the  Little  Blackfoot  most  of  the  country 
is  a  hilly  prairie,  suit^ible  for  grazing,  while  in  the  immediate  valley  is 
suftl(;ient  arable  land  for  the  subsistence  of  a  (lopulation  engage«l  in 
l>astoral  jiursuits. 


COLU^tDIA    RIVER. 


it 


TIio  Big  Bluokfoot  draiiiH  tho  Heniioirclo  from  tlio  Hull  Oato  Puhh  to 
Hoinuwhtit  north  of  the  Gntc  of  Sun  Kiver,  the  main  Htroam  tiowinf; 
from  tho  mountains  at  Ciulotte's  antl  liewix  and  ClarliuV  I'aHHCN.  Tliit4 
stream  f\irniH)icH  at  least  four  passos  to  the  MiHsouri,  two  of  wliit-h  weru 
carefully  examined  in  the  oourHo  of  the  oxploratiouH.  TIio  rivrr  lius  a 
general  course  a  little  south  of  west,  winding  considerably  in  some 
parts,  but  the  length  of  its  valley  is  alxtut  «<«venty  Ave  miles  and  vary- 
ing from  half  a  mile  to  twelve  miles  in  width.  Neither  this  nor  t\w  Hell 
Gate  c^n  be  considered  navigable  alnive  their  Junction.  Its  greatest  rise 
and  fall  is  six  feet  On  the  18th  of  July,  lH5;"i,  its  water-level  was  from 
eight  to  twelve  inches  above  low-water  mark  ami  live  feet  below  high- 
water  mark.  All  these  streams,  together  with  the  Bitter  Hoot  Itiver, 
constitute  a  system  of  waters  flowing  from  the  semicircle,  uniting  oppo- 
site Hell  Qatc,  and  pursuing  a  genenil  northwest  course  to  their  junc- 
tion with  tho  Flatheml  lliver,  forming  Clarke's  Fork.  Thiit  portion  of 
tho  river  from  tho  junction  of  tho  Bitter  Root  and  Hell  Gate  rivers  to 
tho  junction  with  the  Flatheiul  is  now  generally  known  as  the  Missoula 
Kiver.  The  Flathead,  coming  in  from  the  north,  drains  nearly  as  large 
an  extent  and  as  fine  a  country  as  tho  Missoula.  The^c  two  systems  of 
waters  are  separated  by  a  low  mountain-spur,  which  is  generally  well 
timbei-ed  and  well  watered  and  a  large  jMrtion  of  the  land  arabel. 

Passing  from  the  Missoula  to  the  Flathewl  River,  we  cross  ovov  this 
spur  by  a  low  divide,  going  through  the  Coriacan  deflle  and  coming  on 
the  waters  of  Jocko  River.  The  height  of  this  divide  above  the  Hell 
Gate  is  560  feet,  aiul  above  the  Flathead  River  at  tho  mouth  of  tho 
Jocko  is  650  feet.  From  this  divide  a  view  of  surjtassing  beauty  is  pre- 
sented to  the  beholder  as  he  looks  to  the  northward.  lie  sees  before 
him  an  extraordinarily  well-grassed,  well-water',  Jid  inviting  country. 
On  the  east  are  the  divides,  clothed  with  ])ine,  separating  tho  Jocko  and 
its  tribnt^iries  from  the  streams  flowing  into  the  Big  lihickfoot  and  into 
Flathead  Lake.  To  the  north  the  Flatliea«l  Lake,  tweuty-flve  miles  long 
and  six  miles  wide,  is  sprea<l  out,  with  extensive  prairies  iMtyonil,  and 
on  the  west,  sloping  back  from  the  banks  of  the  Flathead  River,  a 
min jlcd  prairie  and  forest  couutry  is  seen.  Here,  in  a  compact  body,  is 
one  of  the  most  promising  countries  in  this  whole  region,  having  at 
least  2,000  squai'e  miles  of  arable  laud.  It  is  now  the  Flathead  Indian 
Reservation.  Above  the  lake  the  Flathead  River  is  formed  by  th(» 
waters  of  three  streams.  Below  the  lake  the  river  follows  its  windings 
some  fifty  miles  to  its  junction  with  the  Missoula,  where  the  united 
streams  assume  the  name  of  Clivrkc's  Fork.  It  is  from  100  to  200  yards 
wide  and  no  deep  as  to  be  fordable  with  difficulty  at  low-water,  its 
depth  being  three  feet  ^t  tho  shallowest  places.  Its  current  is  rapid, 
and  there  is  a  fall  of  flfteeu  feet  five  miles  below  the  lake.  About 
eighteen  miles  below  the  lake  It  receives  a  considerable  stream  from  the 
northwest,  called  Hot  Spring  Creek,  in  the  valley  oi'  which  there  is  a 
large  extent  of  fine  land.  Sixteen  miles  further  to  the  south  it  receives 
S.  Ex.  186 3 


18 


COLUMBIA   RIVKR. 


J(M!ko  Uiv»i-  fi-()ii)  tlio  mxitluMiHt,  wlioii  it  tiiniH  aliniptly  to  tli«>  iiorMiwi'Nt 
uiiil  ill  iiiiiuU-uii  iiiiloH  joiiiN  witli  tliu  MiHfMiiilu.  Tliu  FlutliiMid  UivtT,  liy 
|»MNitiK  tlio  rapitlH  ittiil  failH  Imlow  tliu  lako  with  »  fthort  canal,  ffivim  a 
iiavi^ablo  HtroUsli  of  at  luaat  Mttvunty-Hvw  iiiileM  tu  the  bend  of  FiathviMl 
Lake. 

Thu  Iuw«r  portioiiH  uf  ('larkuV  Fork  have  Ix^ii  already  iiit'iitioiKxl. 
AIm>V(!  tlic  Cabinet  (tiftvon  inilcn  alM>v««  IVml  d'On'illf  Lake),  the  rivor 
wonid  be  uxoellont  for  rafting;  purjtoiH'M.  Itt«  f^rpatcMt  rim)  and  fall  itt 
lift«H«n  feot.  The  valley  of  ('larke*H  Fork  in  generally  a  wide,  amble, 
an<l  inviting  Mettlouienf ,  Miongh  much  of  it  is  woodwi.  The  pritiricH  oc- 
cupy but  an  iucouHiderablu  iKirtinn  of  itM  valley  and  the  Htirnunuling 
country,  j'et  there  Ih  no  dellciency  of  graMt.  On  the  river  art)  Heveral 
tselebrat^Hl  winterin,<7-pliu-/0H  for  Indian  liorseM,  aH  llonte  PlaiUN,  Tlionip- 
Hon*H  I'rairie,  anil  the  country  about  I'eiid  d'Ort'ille  I^ke. 

Tiie  paHHCH  which  Iciul  from  thin  MiHHoiila  iMuin  to  the(ireat  Plain  of 
the  (Columbia  are  that  crimped  by  the  biaitliem  Nez  Perce  trail,  now 
known  iw  the  KIk  ('ity  trail,  leading  from  Mie  np|>er  watent  of  the  ititter 
Itoot;  the  Ijo  Lo  piisH  eriwHud  by  the  northern  Nez  I'ert^i  tniil,  pursued 
by  Lewi.s  and  Clarke  in  their  great  exploratiuuH,  and  'low  known  im  the 
Lou  Ijoii  trail;  theCieurd'AlenepasM,  over  which  thcMullan  roiul  now 
goi'H;  and  the  piwH  by  way  of  Clarke'^  Fork. 

The  Southern  Nez  I'erce  trail  goen  up  the  southwest  fork  of  the  Ititter 
Itoot  ( Nez  Perce  Creek),  and,  croHHing  a  dividing  ridge,  winds  alnuit  over 
the  siininiit  of  i.ie  high  and  ruggeil  nioiintaiiis  separating  the  KiMmkoos- 
kia  from  the  Salmon  Itiver,  taking  a  very  circuitous  course  to  the  Junc- 
tion of  the  main  forks  of  the  Kooskooskia.  Elevation  of  the  iMiss,  altoiit 
7,000  feet.  This  is  a  mere  Indian  trail  whirli  avoids  thedenst>ly-wooiled 
valleys  and  goes  over  the  mountain  siimmitfl,  where  the  elevation  pre- 
vents the  growth  of  trees  and  substitutes  a  growth  of  grass.  Should  it 
lie  found  practicable  to  cut  a  road  down  the  valley  of  the  Kooskooskia 
or  Clearwater,  the  divide  between  it  and  the  Bitter  Itout  is  still  nearly 
7,000  feet  in  altitude. 

The  Lou  Lou  trail  is  in  character  much  the  same,  but  it«  course  is  more 
direct.  It  passes  up  the  valley  of  the  Lou  Lou  fork  of  the  Bitter  Hoot, 
and,  crossing  to  a  branch  of  the  Kooskooskia,  winds  along  the  heads  of 
branches  flowing  into  the  main  sti-eams  of  this  river  till  it  comes  out  on 
the  Great  Plain  at  "the  same  place  as  the  southern  trail.  The  mountjtin 
traveling  required  in  crossing  by  the  southeru  trail  is  about  138  miles, 
and  by  the  northern  trail  is  about  120  miles. 

Between  these  two  trails  there  are  undoubtedly  pasi^es  across  the 
mountains  much  lower,  but  they  are  blocked  up  with  fallen  timber  and 
rendered  almost  inaccessible  on  account  of  this  and  the  steei^,  narrow 
valleys.  It  is  claimed  that  a  practicable  railroad  route  exisU;  by  a  pass 
oalle<l  the  Ska-ka-ho,  or  Skal-ka-ho  Pass,  which  leaves  the  Bitter  Boot 
Valley  nearly  at  its  head. 

The  Gueiur  d'AlOne  pass,  now  occupied  by  the  Uollan  road,  goes  from 


COLtruniA   RIVKR. 


19 


the  i>n««t  u)>  tlio  Ht.  Ucg^H  Uorgin  ItiviT,  rnNtiWH  n  iliviiU*  n,0(NI  ft^t  iiltnvn 
the  .-M'ii,  and  tlcHCMulH  loCii'iird'Ah'-iio  liUkf  by  wiiy  ufthuCwiird'Altaiu 
Kiver.     it  JH  to4t  waII  known  to  n«^l  Hny  ilowriptioii. 

Th«<  piMW  li>  way  of  ('L.rkit'ri  Kork  i-hmmhi  by  Iho  .F<N-ko  nit  olT  from 
th«>  MiHMoiihi  t4)  lh«  KlathtMul  Uiv«T,  iihIiii;  thnCoriiUMiidoHb',  and  k«v|M 
on  down  thu  l-'lath<-ad  Uiver  and  ('lurkc'H  Fork  and  uronnd  I'<>ihI 
d'On'illo  l<akt>.  ThiM  in  t]w  ront4i  a<loptP4l  by  thi>  Northern  I'acilU-  ICail- 
I'ond,  which  fontitnit'H  on  np  lltdl  (>at«>  and  I>(>4*r  I/tMlKo  riverH  and 
nntHM'M  to  llio  lli^r  lloh>,  or  WiMdoni  Itiver,  liy  thi*  IKwr  lAM\m>  paHH. 

From  iiw  divide  of  tlie  KiH^ky  Monntainn  t«i  the  divide  of  the  Itittor 
l(4M>t  Monntainn  there  in  lliiM  intermediate  n>(;i<>n  »r  MixjMtnhi  IlaMJn, 
over  onethinl  of  wlii«';h  in  a  e,nltivabh<  area,  and  a  lar^t*  |Nirtion  of  it 
iH  a  prairie  conntry,  inHtea<l  of  a  wcNNled  or  mountain  coiinlry.  The 
following;  CNtimato  tfivcH  tiio  amount  of  arabh«  hind  am  far  im  «'xiMlinfr 
inforniatitin  alhtweil  it  to  l>e  comput4>d  (IHTtS): 

In  the  n>i;ion  watered  by  tlie  MiHMonla  and  the  Hitter  Itoot  and  tlieir 
tributaries,  iiot  inchiding  Flell  <iat<^,  .'i,(MH>H«pian^  milett;  in  that  wt)ten'«l 
by  the  Hell  (iate  and  itH  tribntarieH,  'J,ri(Nt  square  mil<M;  in  that  wafi-reil 
by  theliif^Ithu^kfootand  itn  tribntarieN,  l,3tM)H<|aaremileM.  Theeonntry 
waterml  by  the  Klathca<I  Uiver  «lown  to  its  junetion  with  the  MiHHoula, 
and  thence  down  Clarke's  Fork  to  the  Cabinet,  has  a  prairie  refj^ion  of 
2,/iOO  square  miles.  The  (»)untry  watcriMl  by  the  Kootenay  has  2,fl(M) 
mpiare  miles  of  pniirie.  Thus  we  have,  in  round  numbers,  1 1,1!<N>  squun* 
miles  of  anible  and  prairie  land. 

litttcr  determinations,  based  niton  the  laudo(Hc«'  surveys  indio^tte 
that  this  is  not  an  overestimate. 

(iovemor  Stt^vonssays  that  the  timlter  land  will  l>e  found  unquestion- 
ably !:ett4tr  than  the  prairie  lan<l;  that  it  will  not  Im;  in  the  iiume<liat« 
liottom  or  valley  of  thu  rivers  that  farmers  will  find  their  lM>st  l<M-ations, 
but  on  flie  snuiller  tributiiries  some  few  miles  alN>ve  their  .junction  with 
the  mail)  stream.  The  observini;  and  thinkiuf;  man  will  In«  astonisheil 
at  the  coiclusioiis  which  lu^  will  rciM^h  in  n>^anl  to  the  .if^rieultunil  ml- 
vautage>i  ')f  this  country.  As  s4Mtn  as  the  niilntuU  n'ju-h  it  and  pm|>er 
facilities  f<tr  transportation  are  atforde^I,  it  will  estuldish  its  su|M-rii»rity 
.IS  an  agricultural  region. 


THE   KOOTE>AY  BIVEB. 

About  twenty-five  miles  svlwvo  the  'loundary  there  comes  into  the 
Cidumbia  from  the  e^st  the  Kootenay  Kiver.  Tlie  lower  luirt  of  this 
river  is  unfit  for  navigation  on  account  of  nipids  and  falls,  but  if  a  short 
portage  is  ma4le  around  this  b»<l  portion  of  the  river  a  navigable  (lortion 
is  res' '  «d  which  is  probably  about  .300  miles  in  extent. 

The  .  x)tcnay  rises  near  the  fifty-first  parallel  of  latitude,  runs  sontli 
to  near  lie  forty-eighth,  then  north  and  west,  resiching  the  Colundiia  at 
almiit  4iU°  north  latitude.  Its  course  is  generally  through  a  mountain- 
ous timbered  conntiy,  but  with  itelts  aiul  8e<:tions  of  rich  agricultural 


20 


COLUMniA   RIVER. 


and  grazing  land.  This  conntry  is  known  to  bo  very  rich  in  the  pre- 
cious metals,  Ibi-  the  Kootcnay  and  nearly  all  the  streams  flowing  into  it 
are  gold-boaring,  some  of  them  being  very  rich. 

Lack  of  public  means  of  transportation  and  the  diflBculties  and  ex- 
pense of  prospecting  have  for  many  years  detiirretl  prospectors  and 
miners  from  cariying  on  their  work  in  these  regions.  With  easy  and 
cheap  lines  of  transitortation  into  the  country  I  believe  that  gold  and 
stiver  mining  would,  and  should,  revive  and  become  a  matter  of  great 
importance. 

BELOW  LITTLE  DALLES. 


From  the  Little  Dalles  to  Kettle  Falls  the  canon  of  the  Columbia  is 
more  open  and  much  good  bottom  land  exists  along  the  river.  In  some 
places  the  hills  are  timberless  and  covered  with  bunch  grass,  and  have 
been  used  for  many  years  by  the  Indians  of  the  vicinity  a^  winter  pas- 
turage grounds  for  their  herds  of  ponica.  The  timber  along  this  portion 
of  the  river  is  not  very  good,  being  mostly  bull  and  black  pine  of  small 
size.  There  are  some  good  tracts  of  fine  timber  scattered  here  and  there, 
and  away  from  the  river  it  becomes  better. 

There  are  sovpnil  good-paying  gold-bearing  bars  along  the  river,  es- 
pecially Six-mile  and  Twelve-mile  Bars,  each  of  which  has  a  wagon  roatl 
leading  to  it  from  Echo  Valley.  The  hills  bordering  the  river  are  low 
and  have  an  abundant  depth  of  rich,  black  soil,  and  are  undoubtedly 
capable  of  cultivation,  and  will  be  occupied  and  cultivated  as  soon  as 
the  more  accessible  bottom  lands  are  taken  up. 

This  remark  holds  good  for  the  greater  portion  of  the  country  between 
the  Columbia  on  the  west  and  the  Pend  d'Oreille  on  the  east.  Settlers 
will  not  go  to  the  trouble  of  clearing  oif  land  when  they  can  find  it  al- 
ready fit  for  the  plow;  but  land  of  this  latter  kind  will  not  last  forever; 
when  it  is  gone  they  w  ill  have  to  take  to  the  wootls. 

Just  above  Kettle  FalL,  on  tlie  left  bank  of  the  river,  lies  the  valley 
in  which  the  old  Iludson  Bay  Company  establishment  is  located.  This 
is  a  fine,  Iom -lying,  fertilp  valley,  two  miles  long  and  one  mile  wide,  and 
at  the  northern  end  of  it  is  the  old  fort  occupied  by  the  British  boundary 
commissioners  for  two  winters  of  the  years  during  which  they  were  en- 
gaged on  their  survey.  These  buildings  are  in  a  good  state  of  preserva- 
tion, and  are  occupied  as  dwellings  and  stores.  Two  traders,  with  quite 
large  stocks  of  goods,  seem  to  find  considerable  business  here  in  trading 
with  settlers.  Chinamen,  and  Indians.  Just  across  the  river  from  the 
old  British  fort,  in  the  Colville  Indian  Reservation,  there  is  a  large  tract 
of  flue  arable  land,  some  of  which  lies  low,  near  the  river,  and  some  on 
benches  and  rolling  hills  further  away.  Throughout  this  Colviilo  Indian 
Eeservation  there  is  an  immense  amount  of  as  fine  agricultu  al  and  graz- 
ing land  as  can  bo  found  anywhere  in  the  Territory. 

By  far  the  greater  proportion  of  the  Indians  for  whom  this  reservation 
wadset  aside  do  not  live  on  it,  but  live  in  the  Colville  and  other  valleys, 


COL\.  VCBIA   RIVKR. 


21 


whoro  they  have  taken  and  claim  the  choicest  portions  for  tlicmsolvoa. 
They  tluis  act  as  a  hinderancc  to  tlie  sottlcnient  of  the  country  outside  of 
their  reservation,  at  tlie  same  time  Iiohlin ;;  tlieir  reservation  and  keeping 
settlers  away  from  it.  Either  they  should  be  compelled  to  vacate  their 
lands  held  outside  the  reservation  and  remove  to  it,  or  tliey  should  re- 
linquish their  reservation  and  allow  it  to  be  throv  n  open  to  settlement. 
By  far  the  best  way  to  settle  the  question  is  to  givo  them  complete  and 
inalienable  titles  to  such  homestwuls  as  they  may  choose  to  select,  either 
on  the  reservation  or  oif,  and  then  throw  open  the  ret<ei'vatiou  to  set- 
tlement. At  the  same  time  all  male  Indians  over  twenty-one  years  of 
age  should  be  made  full  citizens.  As  the  lands  outside  the  reserve 
have  been  ordered  to  be  surveyed  and  subdivided,  it  is  liighly  probable 
that  the  question  will  soon  be  settle<l  by  the  Indians  being  removed  to 
their  reservation  and  msule  to  reside  upon  it,  unless  tlio  land  in  sever- 
alty plan  is  adopted.  ,t    ,1.; 


GENERAL   DESCRIPTION    OP  COUNTRY    ABOUT    FORT   COLVILLE- 

OOLVILLE  VALLEY. 


-TIIE 


Tlie  Colville  Valley,  one  of  the  pleasantcst  and  finest  valleys  io  bo 
found  anywhere  in  the  Northwest,  has  been  retarded  in  its  settlement 
and  advancement  many  years  bj  the  fact  that  it  is  occupied  and  the 
lands  held  in  large  quantities  by  Indians  and  half-breed  descendants  of 
the  old  Hudson  Bay  fur-traders.  These  people,  owing  ta  the  way  they 
have  been  treated  and  tlie  insecure  tenure  on  which  they  hold  their 
lands,  are  shiftless  and  unprogressive,  make  no  effort  to  improve  and 
L'ftautifj',  and  are  a  stumbling-block  in  the  way  of  civilization.  Vriien 
the  land  is  surveyed  and  can  be  taken  up  according  to  the  laws  of  the 
country,  and  titles  be  obtained,  settlers  will  assuredly  flock  into  the 
««iintry,  and  Colville  Valley  wil'  take  the  high  rank  that  it  deserves 
to  hold  among  the  meat  productive,  pleasant,  and  beautiful  regions  of 
the  earth. 

An  rtccumulation  of  drift  and  dense  growth  of  underbrush  in  and 
along  the  lower  portion  of  the  Colville  River  has  caused  it  during  the 
highcjr  stages  of  water  to  overflow  its  baulfs  and  inundate  largo  aresw 
of  this  valley.  A  small  expense  would  remove  all  this  obstruction  and 
double  the  agricultural  area  of  the  valley,  at  the  same  time  rendering 
it  more  healthy. 

Fort  Colville  and  the  town  of  Colville  are  situated  about  fifteen  miles 
frim  the  Columbia,  in  the  valley  of  Mill  Creek,  which  is  a  branch  of 
Colville  River. 

To  the  east  of  Fort  Colville  the  hills  and  mountains  commence,  and 
stretch  over  to  the  Pend  d'Oreille  Itiver,  with  here  and  there  an  attriic- 
tive  valley.  In  this  direction  trails  leiwl  to  diftcrent  points  on  the  latter 
river,  especially  to  the  Calispcll  Lake  and  Mission. 

The  mountivins  are  not  high,  are  timbered,  and  abound  in  game.  To 
the  north  of  Fort  Colville  there  is  a  i)retty  valley,  called  Echo  Valley, 


22 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


an  ofTsliont  from  Mill  Crcok  Valley.  It  is  boanded  on  tlio  oast  by  the 
same  titnbore«l  uioiiiitains  tliat  lie  oast  of  Golville,  and  on  the  west  by 
a  low  range  of  hills,  partly  timbered  and  partly  covered  with  bunch 
grass ;  through  it  are  one  or  more  gaps  leading  to  the  Columbia  Itiver. 
Through  this  valley  the  road  goes  to  the  Little  Dalles.  Two  roads  go 
from  Fort  Colville  towanls  the  west,  one  down  Mill  Creek  through 
Spanish  Prairie,  joining  the  other,  which  goes  direct  to  the  Colville 
River  at  the  mouth  of  Mill  Creek;  hence  they  keep  on  together  until 
just  beyond  thi  Catholic  Mission,  where  they  divide,  one  going  to 
Rickey's  Land  tig,  below  Grand  Rapids,  and  on  down  the  Columbia,  one 
to  Ktttle  Falls,  and  one  to  the  old  British  Commission  Fort  Colville. 

The  country  about  the  Colville  River  for  the  last  few  miles  of  its 
course  is  sandy  and  iiotflt  for  cultivation  except  in  a  few  spots.  To  the 
south  of  Fort  Colville  the  regular  mail  road  leads  to  Fool's  Prairie ;  here 
it  branches,  one  branch  going  to  Walker's  Prairie  and  the  Ijower  Spo- 
kane bridge,  and  one  being  the  new  military  road  to  Spokane  Falls. 
Between  the  Colville  lliver  and  the  Columbia  the  mountains  are  rather 
high,  and  are  densely  covered  with  timber  as  far  as  could  be  seen. 

KETTLE  FALLS. 

Kettle  Falls,  i '  e  Chaudi^re  Falls  of  the  earlj  Canadian  voyageurs 
an(i  the  "  Sometknu  Falls  "  of  the  Indians,  are  situated  about  four  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Colville  River,  sixteen  miles  from  Fort  Colville, 
and  about  711  miles  up  the  Columbia  from  its  mouth.  They  take  their 
name  from  the  fact  that  the  falling  waters  converge  and  give  the  pool 
below  the  appearance  of  a  huge  boiling  cauldron.  They  are  the  most 
complete  and  total  obstruction  to  navigation  met  with  on  the  Columbia, 
the  jicrpendicular  fall  being  about  twenty-fl ve  feet  at  low  water,  divided 
into  the'upper  fall  of  fifteen  feet,  and  the  lower  one  of  ten  feet,  the  two 
lalls  being  within  .•  few  rods  of  each  othe". 

The  channel  is  very  much  contracted  by  the  projecting  rocks  and 
islands,  as  shown  in  the  sketch  of  the  falls  accoinp{.nying  this  report. 

If  at  any  time  in  the  future  it  should  become  necess.ary  to  inii.rovo  or 
to  discuss  the  improvement  of  these  falls  to  give  navigation  around 
them,  I  would  suggest  a  plan  by  which  X  thin'.:  that  it  could  be  done  at 
a  '  (-"ipamtively  small  expense,  oviiig  to  the  peculiar  conformation  of 
t'wo  shores  and  islands. 

A  glance  at  the  accompanying  map  of  the  falls  will  show  that  a  largo 
island  liefl  near  and  parallel  with  the  left  bank.  There  is  a  channel  be- 
two«n  this  island  and  the  left  bank,  in  which  the  main  fall  between  the 
island  and  the  right  bank  is  distributed  over  the  entire  distance.  This 
channel  has  at  present  some  rocks  in  it  which  could  be  removed  with- 
out difficulty,  ard  has  a  good  entrance  at  the  upper  end.  Below  the 
island  is  a  projecting  point  of  rock  just  aliout  at  the  level  of  the  highest 
water.  Through  this  point  a  channel  could  be  cut  and  in  it  a  lock 
placed,  the  material  taken  from  the  channel  being  placed  in  the  inter- 


JVllUW^^'^'^ 


S(N.  EX.  iWC.  N«  /S0,  M  StSS.,  471k  COM. 


mimfilif^f^mmm 


SEM.  EX  DOC  No,  /86,  M  SESS.,  47tb  COM. 


COLUMBIA   RIVER, 


23 


v»l  botwoon  tho  island  and  projecting  point,  forming  thus  a  continuouH 
channel  for  a  canal  from  the  quiot  waters  above  to  tho  quiet  waters  bo- 
low  the  falls.  But  Grand  Kapids,  another  serious  obstruction  to  navi- 
gation, lies  only  about  seven  miles  below  Kettle  Falls,  and  no  scheme 
for  giving  navigation  around  Kettle  Falls  would  ever  bo  entertained 
which  did  not  contemplate  also  giving  it  around  Grand  Rapido.    Those 


GRAND  RAPIDS 

present  very  much  the  same  appearance  as  tho  cascades  where  tho 
Columbia  breaks  through  the  Cascade  Mountains.  Many  small  black 
islands  and  points  of  bed-rock  arise,  between  and  around  which  the 
waters  surge  and  toss  themselves  into  foam,  descending  in  a  distance  of 
about  one  mile  a  total  fall  of  probably  twenty  feet. 

On  tho  right  bank  of  tho  river  at  these  falls  the  mountains  rise  rather 
abrujitly  away  from  tho  river,  while  along  the  loft  bank  is  a  largo,  (Ino, 
open  flat,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  river,  comi>osod 
of  gravel  and  alluvium,  resting  on  the  rock  at  the  level  of  the  bed  of 
the  river.  This  flat,  which  is  a  true  river  terrace,  luw  very  steep  sides 
towards  the  river,  and  I  believe  that  any  plan  to  givo  navigation  around 
these  rapids  would  involve  cutting  a  canal  through  this  terrace  and  the 
underlying  bedrock — a  very  expensive  undertaking. 

If  the  time  ever  comes  that  commerce  shall  demand  navigation  around 
these  two  obstructions  of  Grand  Itapids  and  Kettle  Falls,  the  method 
by  boat  railway  would  i»robably  be  tho  best  one  to  adopt.  The  coufor- 
matiou  of  tho  ground  is  well  suited  for  this  purpose. 

KETTLE   RIVER. 

This  river,  which  is  put  down  on  nearly  all  maps  as  the  "  No-hoial- 
pit-qua"  Itiver,  is  known  to  all  white  people  in  the  upper  country  as  tho 
Kettle  lliver,  in  consequence  of  which,  I  suppose,  this  unpoetical  name 
must  be  adopted.  This  river  rises  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Okiuakane, 
and  flows  in  a  generally  easterly  course,- emptying  into  the  Columbia 
just  above  Kettle  Falls  and  nearly  opposite  old  Fort  Colville.  1  was 
informed  thatmuch  good  country  lies  along  this  river,  suitable  for  agri- 
cultural and  gi-azing  purposes,  and  that  large  tracts  of  flue  timber, 
cedar,  fir,  and  pine,  exist  in  its  vicinity. 

As  it  is  highly  probable  that  in  the  future  a  line  of  railroad  will  be 
located  along  this  river,  I  will  give  the  words  of  Governor  Stevens,  in 
describing  General  (then  Captain)  McClcllan's  exploration  of  it  in  1853, 
taken  from  Pacific  Kailroad  Report : 

The  country  between  the  Okinakane  and  the  Culiinibia  at  Fort  Colville,  sixty  uiilcH 
in  a  direct  line  across,  was  traversed  by  Captaiii  Mc(  lellan's  party  al)out  lifty  miles  to 
tho  north  of  the  Groat  Plain.  Five  miles  from  the  Okinakane,  the  Ne-hoi-al-iiit-(iim, 
flowing  eastward,  was  reached,  the  dividing  ridge  being  rolling  and  grassy,  covered 
with  forest  at  its  summit,  which  is  about  1,500  feet  above  the  Okinakntio  and  S,G47 
above  the  sea,  as  observed  with  an  aneroid  barometer.  Tho  valley  sloping  toward 
tho  east,  though  narrow,  ia  fertile,  with  alternations  of  prairie  and  forest,  while  the 
hills  bordering  it  are  wooded  with  large  trees,  mostly  on  their  northern  slope. 


M 


COLUMBIA   UIVEB. 


CIIAPTEU   II. 

UKANI)  RAl'IDS  TO  THE  SPOKANE  ItlVER. 
PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  JOURNEY. 

Having  completed  the  work  assigned  uie  in  the  country  about  Fort 
Colville,  I  niiulo  preparations  for  my  voyage  down  the  Columbia. 

I  WHS  fortunate  enough  to  procure  from  John  Kickcy,  a  settlor  and 
tnwler,  who  lives  at  the  Grand  Kapids,  a  strongly-built  bateau,  and 
had  his  assistance  in  selecting  a  crew  of  Indians  for  the  journey.  The 
bateau  was  about  thirty  feet  long,  four  feet  wide  at  the  gunwales,  and 
two  feet  deep,  and  is  as  sinal*  a  boat  as  the  voyage  siiould  over  be  at- 
t4*m])ted  in,  if  it  is  contemplated  to  go  through  all  the  rapids.  My  first 
lookout  hiul  been  to  secure  the  services  of  "  Old  Pierre  Agaro"  as  steers- 
man, and  I  had  to  carry  on  negotiations  with  him  for  several  days  be- 
fore ho  finally  consented  to  go.  Old  Pierre  is  the  only  one  of  the  old 
Hudson  Bay  Company's  Iroquois  voyageurs  now  left  who  knows  the 
river  thoroughly  at  all  stages  of  water,  from  Colville  to  its  mouth.  In 
the  palmy  days  of  the  fur  triders,  he  came  with  them  from  Canada,  and 
made  many  voyages  down  and  up  the  Columbia,  married  and  settled  at 
Colville,  and  now  has  a  large  family  of  children,  grandchildren,  and 
great  grandchildren  about  him.  The  old  man  is  seventy  years  of  age, 
and  hale  and  hearty,  although  his  eye-sight  is  somewhat  defective, 
which  is  almost  a  certain  accompaniment  of  old  ago  with  an  Indian. 

The  other  Indians  engaged  were  Pen  waw.  Big  Pierre,  Little  Pierre, 
and  Joseph.  They  had  never  made  the  trip  all  the  way  down  the  river, 
and  their  minds  were  full  of  the  dangers  and  terrors  of  the  great  rapids 
below,  and  it  was  a  long  time  before  wo  could  prevail  upon  them  to  go, 
by  promising  them  a  high  price  and  stipulating  for  their  return  by  rail 
and  stage.  Old  Pierre  and  John  Rickey  labored  and  talked  with  them 
long  and  faitlifully  to  gain  their  consent,  aud  I  am  sure  that  they  started 
oft"  with  as  many  misgivings  about  getting  safely  through  as  we  did 
who  had  to  trust  our  lives  to  tlieir  skill,  promptness,  and  obedience. 

When  all  was  ready  we  entered  the  boat  and  took  our  stations,  Old 
Pierre  in  the  stern  at  the  steering  oar ;  next  our  baggage,  upon  which 
I  took  my  station ;  then  came  the  four  Indian  oarsmen,  and  in  the  bow 
Mr.  Downing,  topographical  assistant.  Mr.  Downing  and  myself  both 
worked  independently  in  getting  as  thorough  a  knowledge  of  the  river 
us  possible,  he  tivking  the  courses  with  a  prismatic  compass,  and  esti- 
mating distances  by  the  eye,  and  sketching  in  the  topographical  features 
of  the  adjoining  country,  while  I  estimated  also  the  distances  to  marked 
points,  and  paid  particular  attention  to  the  bed  of  the  river,  sounding 
wherever  there  were  any  indications  of  shallowness. 

Eiich  evening  we  compared  notes  as  to  distances,  and  we  found  them 
to  come  out  very  well  together,  the  greatest  difference  being  6|  miles 


COLUMIUA    RIVEK. 


96 


in  a  diiy'H  run  of  M{  miles.  Some  days  they  were  identical.  Tlio  total 
diHtan(!e  from  our  Htartinp:  {wint,  just  IhjIow  Ornnd  KapidH,  to  Ainswortli, 
at  the  mouth  of  Snake  Uiver,  wiw  estimated  by  Mr.  Downinfj  to  Im) 
3fl.}.25  nuleH,  and  by  myself  to  l)e  '.iiiO  miles.  His  distances  were  ob- 
tained chiefly  by  estimating  how  far  it  was  to  some  marked  ))oint  ahead, 
and  correcting  it  when  the  point  was  reached ;  mine  by  tlie  time  re- 
quired to  pass  over  the  distances,  in  which  the  elements  consideivd 
were  the  swiftness  of  the  current  and  the  labor  of  the  oarsmen. 

The  following  are  the  distances,  as  estimated  for  each  day's  run  by 
Mr.  Downing  and  myself: 


I>»7*. 


Flrrt... 
K»<coml . . 
Third.... 
Vourtb  . 
Filth  .... 
Sixth... 
S4ivtmth. 
KiKhth.. 
Ninth... 


Du  ./ning. 

Sjrmuiis. 

MUu. 

UOe*. 

40. 21; 

4'2.(H) 

».m 

aso 

aa.  75 

2:1.50 

64. 2S 

57.  5U 

34.  M 

34.  IK) 

SftM 

5(1.  IH> 

S8.2S 

OJ.  .-.o 

£7.00 

M  (10 

15.75 

16.00 

Total. 


303.  25 


As  a  general  thing,  it  was  deemed  best  to  use  the  greater  estimate  of 
the  day's  run  in  plotting  the  notes,  and  the  final  distairce  adoitted  was 
3G5.5  miles. 

GBAND  BAPIDS  TO  SPOKANE  UIVEB. 

September  29,  1881,  9:40  a.  m. — Everything  being  in  readiness,  wo 
pushed  off,  Rickey  giving  us  his  last  words  of  advice,  and  the  Indians, 
their  squaws,  and  friends,  keeping  up  a  chafiiug  sort  of  conversation, 
in  which  they  were  no  doubt  encouraging  each  other  to  be  of  good  cheer. 

Three  miles  below  we  came  to  a  collection  of  black-rock  islands  in  the 
middle  of  the  river.  The  islands  are  apparently  of  black  basalt,  and 
rise  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet  above  the  water  at  the  present  stage,  and 
have  a  great  deal  of  drift-wood  upon  their  tops,  and  lodged  in  the  crev- 
ices of  their  sides.  To  all  api)earances  there  is  a  channel  on  both  aides 
of  the  rocks.  We  took  the  one  toward  the  left  bank,  which  I  think  is 
much  the  better.  On  account  of  the  contraction  caused  by  these  islands 
there  is  quite  a  strong  rapid  here,  which,  however,  would  offer  no  ob- 
stacle to  a  good  steamer.  It  is  altogether  probable  that  in  higlier  stiiges 
of  water  the  current  becomes  stronger,  and  at  higliest  water  an  ordi- 
nary steamer  might  have  some  difficulty  in  getting  through. 

About  nine  miles  further  ilown  we  passed  by  a  small  village  of  Sans 
Toil  Indians,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  Opposite  this  village  the 
river  is  quite  shallow,  the  bottom  covered  with  large  gravel  and  bowl- 
ders, whicli  were  plainly  seen  from  the  iKiat.  The  depf'  is  aooiii/  six  feet 
along  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  as  the  water  is  considerably  above 
extreme  low  water,  this  depth  would  probably  be  decreased  to  four,  and 
8.  Ex.  13(3 4 


s« 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


inny  be  to  Uiioo  fuut  at  lowoNt  ntage.  Thuro  ivitpuiired  hoiiiu  evidencuH 
of  tho  duptli  hiiiiiK  Hoiiicwhivt  grviitur  toward  tbc  right  bank,  but  of 
tbiH  I  am  not  curttUn. 

Home  distanoo  buluw  wo  puHbcd  tlirongh  a  portion  of  tbe  river  con- 
taining a  number  of  rocky  iuhind  points,  Hunkon  rocks,  and  i)oint«  Jut- 
ting out  from  Hhoro.  Among  tlieso  rocks  are  several  sharp  little  rip- 
ples with  strong  eddies,  l)iit  nothing  that  can  bo  considered  as  an  ob- 
struction to  navigation. 

At  one  p.  ni.,  at  a  distance  of  twenty  and  one-fourth  miles  from  liickey's 
Landing,  we  came  to  Turtle  Rapidn,  which  result  from  the  presence  in 
the  stream  of  a  number  of  largo  and  small  Dlack -looking  bod-rock 
islands.  The  main  and  best  channel  passes  about  in  the  center  of  the 
stream  between  the  islands.  The  water  is  quite  strong  and  rapid,  but 
I  do  not  consider  that  a  steamer  would  have  groat  difficulty  in  stem- 
ming the  current  at  any  stage  of  water. 

In  running  through,  care  would  have  to  bo  taken  to  avoid  sunken 
rocks. 

About  throe  miles  further,  after  passing  a  largo,  promising-looking  bar, 
on  which  a  number  of  Chinamen  were  engaged  in  mining,  wo  came  to 
another  rajtid,  of  minor  importance,  however,  caused  by  a  point  of  rock 
jutting  well  out  into  the  stream  from  the  left  bank. 

Six  and  one-half  miles  on  and  we  came  to  Rogers'  Bar.  Both  above 
aiul  below  this  bar  there  are  quite  strong  ripples,  tho  one  just  above 
being  quite  shallow,  with,  however,  sutUcieut  water  for  purposes  of  navi- 
gation. 

Four  and  one-half  miles  further  on  we  came  to  what  is  called  the 
Elbow  Bend  of  the  river.  Here  are  some  bed-rock  islands  with  a  gravel- 
bar  island  near  the  right  bank,  and  jutting  points  of  rock  below,  also 
from  the  right  bank.  The  channel  is  near  the  left  bank  all  the  way, 
with  a  rather  strong  ripple  near  tho  rock  islands. 

After  four  miles  further  traveling  we  passed  some  more  bad  water, 
swift  and  strong,  with  rocks  near  the  left  bank,  ofi'oring,  however,  no 
obstruction  to  navigation ;  and  at  4 :  40  we  went  into  camp  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  river,  where  a  pretty  stream  comes  down,  having  made  a 
distance  of  forty-seven  and  three-fourths  miles  during  the  day.   . 

Sq>tember  30,  7:28  a.  m, — Left  camp,  and  fo  r  miles  b^low  passed  a 
very  rugged  portion  of  tho  left  bank  of  the  river.  Among  the  rocks  was 
one  resembling  very  much  a  bishop's  mitre,  being  conical  and  split 
down  the  center.    I  have  called  it  Mitre  Rock. 

At  9:10,  four  and  a  half  miles  further  on,  we  entei'ed  tbe*  mouth  of 
Spokane  River,  and  made  camp,  having  passed  through  tho  Spokane 
Rapids,  M'hich  are  situated  about  a  half  mile  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Spokane. 

These  rapids  are  the  most  serious  obstructions  to  navigation  met  with 
since  leading  Grand  Rapids. 

The  river  runs  through  a  narrow  channel  between  it«  two  banks, 


pi* 


COUrMniA    RIVER. 


ST 


which  nre  eoiitmcteil  and  (y)V(>r(Ml  with  ffrtfut  Itowhlora  ami  iniuwive 
roeSffl.  The  Hpnco  fVnfl  fh)ni  rockn  in  inirrow,  and  thri>nf;li  it  thv^  wiitor 
ninhos  with  gri'flt  velocity  and  j)«>wer.  I  doubt  very  much  if  any  river 
IxHit  h)M  tteen  built  in  thiH  weittprii  c«>uutry  that  can  aitccud  thcAu  ni))idfl 
without  lining  over.  The  m)>idH  arc  vcr>'  short,  and,  with  proiH'r  np- 
pIiAnc4*«,  n  boat  could  be  oaHily  HuikI  over.  ' 

I  think  it  well  to  conmder  the  Hubjcct  of  the  iniprovcnicnt  of  thcxc 
H|M>kane  Hr^pidB,  inaHnuich  aH  they  art^  the  only  real  oliMtructiitn  to  navi- 
gation for  a  long  distiuice  alwve  and  btdow  them,  and  lut  their  improve- 
ment would  be  comparatively  inexpensive.  Mimt  of  the  ImwlderH  form- 
ing the  obMtruction  could  be  handled  by  an  onlinary  Htcam  derrick,  and 
reniovetl  by  this  meiins  from  their  present  i>osition.  During  low  water 
Liioy  could  all  be  reached  and  taken  away.  NolK^I-rock  ap|iears  that  I 
could  SCO.  The  water  above  the  rapitls  is  a  imwI,  quiet,  deep,  and  wide, 
which  would  easily  stand  all  the  quickening  require«l  to  distribute  the 
fall  that  now  t^ikos  place  through  the  rapids  over  a  sufficient  length  of 
river  to  render  it  ascendable  by  river  steamers. 

For  the  first  thirty  miles  below  Onind  Rapids,  until  Itogers'  Itar  is 
reached,  there  is  considerable  bottom  land  along  the  Columbia,  much 
more  than  is  generally  believed,  and  on  both  sides  of  the  river  are 
iHMiches,  some  of  them  containing  hundre<ls  of  iu;res,  i>erha|>s  thou- 
sands, of  the  very  finest  land,  well  wateretl  and  covere«I  with  burich- 
grass  and  scattering  belts  of  timber. 

The  Indians  told  me  that  back  from  the  Columbia,  lietwccn  it  and  the 
Colville  River,  wore  many  fertile  and  beautifid  i)rairie8. 

Below  Itogers'  Bar  the  cailon  narrows  and  the  mountains  close  in  aiid 
the  river  in  crooke<l,  with  very  little  Iwttom  land  until  within  a  few  miUw 
of  the  Spokane,  when  it  becomes  more  open.  Throughout  this  {Mtrtion, 
the  hills,  bottom  lands,  and  mountains  are  well  coverctl  with  tine  o|H>n 
tind)er  and  very  little  underbrush.  Except  where  it  breaks  through  the 
Cascade  Mountains,  this  is  the  most  bcjiutiful  (xtrtion  of  the  Cobunbia 
within  our  territory. 

Many  beuutiful  and  pleasant  homcf!  arc  certain  at  no  v^^ry  distant  day 
to  adoni  its  banks,  and  the  demiinds  of  iulvancing  civilization  will  cer- 
tjiiidy  require  that  within  a  few  yearu  steamers  shoidd  navigate  its 
waters,  communicating  with  railways  reitchin^;  it  near  the  mouths  of 
the  Colville  and  Spokane  rivers.  It  is  to  lie  IioinmI  that^  in  the  years 
to  come,  this  portion  may  become  a  part  of  a  continuously  navigable 
river  from  GrRB'l  Rapids  to  the  sea. 

There  are  quite  a  number  of  Chinamen  engaged  in  mining  on  the  river 
bars.  Many  bars  have  been  worked  and  abandoned,  and  others  have 
not  lieen  worke<l,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  getting  water  to  them.  Fn 
tome  instances  the  Chinamen  have  pnt  in  flumes  several  miles  in  length 
and  constnictetl  quite  extensive  works  to  obtain  the  precious  niet4il 
fi«m  the  gravel  and  sand.  In  the  cimstmction  t>f  these  works  they 
often  display  nmch  ingenuity  and  knowIe«lge  of  hydraulics.     In  one 


28 


COLUMniA    RIVER. 


placo  just  below  Mie  Spokane  River  they  have  taken  the  water  from 
Hawk  Creek  and  conducted  it  about  tbree  miles  in  ditches  and  wooden 
flumes  made  of  whip-sawed  lumber,  and  have  taken  it  to  a  large  bar- 
island  in  the  river,  crossing  the  intervening  channel  by  means  of  an 
inverted  siphon,  also  made  of  whip-sawed  lumber. 


THE  SPOKANE  BIYEB. 

The  Spokane  River  at  its  mouth  is  about  200  feet  wide,  and  flows 
tlirough  a  canon  very  similar  to  that  of  the  Columbia,  and  aucr.L  2,000 
feet  bolo'v  the  general  level  of  the  pliiins  to  the  south.  It  is  broken  by 
many  rapids  and  falls,  and  is  entirely  unnavigable.  From  it;8  mouth 
up  to  S[>okane  Falls,  about  seventy  miles,  this  cailon  is  very  deep  and 
difficult  to  cross  or  traverse.  This  river,  with  that  portion  of  the  Colum- 
bia from  its  mouth  to  the  Okinakane,  forms  the  boundary  line  between 
the  rich  and  treeless  great  Columbia  Plain  on  the  south,  and  the  more 
rocky,  timbered,  and  mountainous  country  to  the  north. 

Camp  Spokane  is  situated  on  a  level  terrace  plateau  about  one  and  a 
half  miles  from  the  month  of  the  Spokane,  and  four  hundred  feet  almve 
it,  on  its  southern  bank.  From  this  plateau  it  is  easy  to  descend  to  the 
Spokane  and  Columbia  rivers,  and  to  ascend  to  the  great  plains  to  the 
south. 

The  Spokane  River,  by  its  situation  and  characteristics,  is  bound  to 
play  an  important  part  in  the  settlement  and  ultimate  well-being  of  the 
whole  country  within  a  great  distance  of  it. 

At  Spokane  Falls  is  a  magnificent  water-po^er,  one  of  the  finest  in 
the  world,  and  situated  as  it  is  in  the  midst  of  a  eplendid  agricultural 
country,  most  of  which,  however,  is  treeless,  there  seems  no  room  to 
doubt  that  it  will  become  a  great  manufacturing  and  commercial  center. 

By  means  of  tlie  river  and  Cceur  d'Alfine  Lake,  and  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  latter,  a  magnificent  and  n  idely-extended  area  of  timber- 
land  lying  along  the  Cceur  d'AlCne  aiul  Bitter  Root  Mountains  can  be 
made  to  yield  its  forest  covering  for  transportation  by  water  to  Spokane 
Falls,  there  to  be  manufactured  into  lumber  and  distributed  throughout 
the  agricultural  lands  to  the  south  and  west.  In  return  for  this  lumber 
and  fuel,  these  lands  will  send  their  wheat  to  the  falls  to  be  manuftictured 
into  flour,  and  sent  from  there  to  the  seaboard  to  be  shipped  to  the  mar- 
kets of  the  world. 

Large  portions  of  the  country  are  better  suited  for  pastoral  puri)08es 
than  fur  agricultural,  and  it  is  reasonable  to  expect  that  here  at  these 
falls  will  be  erected  great  woolen  manufactories,  to  work  up  the  raw  pro- 
duce of  the  country  into  the  cloths  and  blankets  required  by  the  inhab- 
itants ihereof. 

Large  quantities  of  brown  hematite  iron  ore  have  been  found  near  the 
Spokane  River  below  tl»o  falls,  and  it  is  known  that  other  iron  denosits 
lie  to  the  north. 


COLUMBIA   RIVEH. 


39 


Quantities  of  flax  hnvo  boon  grown  tlio  past  few  years  in  tlie  country 
to  tlie  south  of  Spokane  Falls,  ar/l  it  must  also  be  brouglit  to  this  great 
water-power  to  be  manufactured  into  tbrea^l,  cloth,  &c.,  and  the  seed 
into  oil. 

The  number  of  manufacturing  enterprises  for  which  this  place  seems 
adapted  is  very  great.  I  may  enumerate,  besides  those  mentioned 
above,  the  manufacture  of  all  kinds  of  wooden  ware,  of  agricnltural  and 
farm  impkments,  wagons,  carriages,  furniture,  leather,  harness,  boots 
and  shoes,  pork,  beer,  and  iron  and  metal  works  in  groat  variety.  Large 
numbers  of  emigrants  have  been  and  are  coming  into  this  Spokane 
country,  lured  hither  by  the  fine  agricultural  i)ro8pects,  by  the  abund- 
ance of  remunerative  labor,  the  prospects  of  large  manufiicturing  estab- 
lishments, and  the  bright  miuing  outlook.  Tliis  influx  of  cntigrnnts  will 
bo  largely  increased  as  soon  aa  ra''road8  roach  the  country  and  render 
it  clieai)er  and  easier  for  them  to  come. 

Tiie  Spokane,  in  the  upper  'lart  of  its  course,  presents  the  estimable 
pcculip'-ity — espetiially  valiable  in  view  of  its  use  as  a  water-power — of 
never  freezing. 

It  seems  to  he  fed  by  many  springs  between  the  falls  and  C(eur 
d'AlCno  LaK-o,  which  have  the  effect,  in  the  coldest  weather,  of  keeping 
tiie  temperature  above  the  freezing  point. 

Immediately  about  the  falls  the  soil  is  not  adapted  to  farming  02\  a 
large  scale,  as  it  is, more  or  less  rocky  and  gravelly.  It  is,  however,  on 
this  account,  particularly  well  Itted  for  builling  purposes. 

The  total  f^dl  of  the  river  is  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet,  divided 
into  several  plunges  and  r'*pids,  and  broken  by  i&lands  i;nd  rocks,  and 
so  situated  that  its  entire  force  can  bo  controlled  and  brou^'ht  into  use. 

It  would  scorn  as  if  nature  could  not  have  done  nioro  to  make  this  a 
great  manufacturing  and  commercial  center,  and  a  beautiful,  healthy, 
and  attra^ifcive  place. 

My  duties  required  me  to  remain  several  days  about  C.imp  Spokane, 
doing  work  au'l  making  examinations  required  by  the  department  com- 
mander, amoufj  which  wore  the  location  of  a  bridge  over  the  Spokane 
Kiver  and  a  ferry  over  the  Columbia,  the  object  being  to  furnish  facili- 
ties for  the  troops  to  cross  these  rivers  and  penetrate  into  the  Indian 
country.  The  locations  selected  are  marked  on  the  map  of  the  portion 
of  the  river  about  the  mouth  of  the  Spokane. 

On  account  of  the  swiftness  and  turbulence  of  the  water  below,  it  was 
necessary  to  locate  the  ferry  above  the  T  okane  Kapids.  I'lstimates  for 
the  bridge  were  sent  in,  and  the  troops  have  been  ordoied  Uy  build  it. 


80 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


CIIAPTEBIII. 

COLUMMA  niVBR,  FROM  'THE  SPOKANE  RIVER  TO  LAKE  CHELAN. 

iraving  flnisliod  work  about  Gainp  Spokane  on  October  3,  at  11 :45  a. 
m.  we  pushed  out  from  the  Spokane  Kiver  and  t  )ok  our  course  down  the 
Cohimbia.  At  12:15  we  had  run  the  f^ve  miles  to  the  mouth  of  Hawk 
Creek,  and  the  ranch  and  trading  post  of  Williaxi  Covington,  generally 
known  as  "  Virginia  Bill."  llavrk  Creek  heads  at  Cottonwood  Springs 
on  the  old  White  Bluflfs  road.  It  is  abdut  twenty-five  miles  long,  and 
flows  for  the  greuter  part  of  the  way  tlrough  an  extremely  deep  and 
precipitous  canon.  Virginia  Bill  has  constructed  a  wagon-road  from 
the  Great  Plain  near  Cottonwood  Springs  to  his  ranch,  y.  hich  is  a.,  ex- 
cellent road,  and  the  best  way  to  reach  the  Columbia  from  the  upper 
I)laiu  with  which  I  am  familiar.  There  is  an  easy  grade  and  a  firm  soil 
all  the  way,  and  I  believe  a  praeticable  raiiroad  route  could  be  laid  out 
to  the  river  in  the  vicinity  of  this  road. 

The  river  between  the  Spokane  and  Hawk  Creek  is  very  swift  and 
strong,  the  current  running  from  six  to  eight  miles  an  hour. 

A  couple  of  rades  further  on  we  passed  the  month  of  Welsh  Creek,  so 
named  from  a  settler  on  its  banks  in  the  valley  about  four  or  five  miles 
from  the  river.  Some  of  the  prettiest  country  in  the  world  is  situated 
upon  Welsh  Creek  and  its  branches.  There  are  beautiful  little  valleys 
nestled  in  among  the  rolling,  timbered  hills,  and  beyoud,  up  on  the  great 
plain,  mile  after  mile  of  bunch-grass-covercd  gently-sloping  prairie. 

The  river  now  becomes  v^ry  deeply  encauoned  with  steep,  rocky,  and, 
in  some  cases^  perpendicul  ir  bluffs,  ou  one  or  both  sides.  The  caflon  is 
in  many  places  vety  beautiful ;  the  rocks  comiwsing  the  bluft^  are  many- 
colored,  black,  brown,  pink,  and  white,  and  have  many  patches  of  bright 
red  and  yellow  moss.  To  this  mn.st  be  added  the  green  of  the  trees,  of 
which  all  shades,  from  the  darkest  to  the  brightest,  appear ;  the  bright 
autumnal  tints  of  the  bushet',  and  beyond,  above,  and  about  all,  the  old 
gold  of  the  withered  bunch-grass  shining  in  the  sunlight. 

The  rocks  take  all  imaginable  forms,  showing  up  na  pinnacles,  ter- 
race?, perpendicnlar  bluffs,  devils-slides,  and  giants'  causeways,  the 
whole  ♦brming  one  of  the  grandest,  most  beautiful  sights  in  the  universe. 
Tlie  material  of  which  the  lock  iscompoeiod  is  all  apparently  of  igneous 
origin,  trachyte  and  basalt.  With  this,  es{>ecially  o.,  the  north  side  of 
the  river,  there  is  a  great  <leal  of  voloauio  tufa  in  a  more  or  less  friable 
condition. 

About  eight  miles  further  on  wo  come  to  the  Whitestone,  a  noted  Ip.iid- 
mark.  consisting  of  a  gigantic  grayish-white  rock,  500  feel  high,  stand 
ii»g  periwndicularly  up  from  the  water,  m  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  and 
being  partially  detached  from  the  rocks  to  the  roar.    It  is  split  !;^'';i 
the  middle  by  sof.io  groat  convulsion.    Tlie  Indians  hi.ve  a  i  ;p,"w«i  c, ;; 
corning  this  i-ock,  of  which  the  skunk  is  the  hero. 


^■'^ 


ij?i 


COLUMBIA   RIVGB. 


31 


It  would  Heoin  that  in  tho  loug  ago  a  skunk,  a  cayote,  and  a  rattlu- 
suakc  each  had  a  farm  oa  the  top  of  the  Whit«8toue.  These  were  the 
(lays  before  the  skunk  was  as  odorous  as  he  is  now,  but  was  esteemed  a 
good  fellow  and  pleasant  companion  by  other  animals.  As  in  some 
other  small  communities,  jealousies,  dissensions,  and  intrigues  arose  in 
this  one.  The  result  was  that  the  cayote  and  rattlesnake  took  a  mean 
advantage  of  the  skunk  one  night  when  he  was  asleep,  and  threw  liim 
off  the  rock,  awa^  down  into  the  river.  He  was  i^ot  drowned,  however, 
but  floated  on  and  on,  far  away  to  the  south  and  west,  until  lie  came  to 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  where  lived  a  great  medicine-man  and  magician. 
To  him  the  skunk  applied  and  was  iitted  out  with  an  apparatus  war- 
rATitcd  to  give  immunity  from,  and  conquest  over,  all  liis  enemies. 
Back  he  journeyed  along  the  river  to  his  old  home,  where  he  arrived, 
much  to  the  surprise  of  the  cayote  and  rattlesnake,  and  commenced  to 
make  it  so  pleasant  for  them  with  his  pungent  perfumery  apparatus, 
the  gift  of  the  magician,  that  they  soon  left  him  in  undisputed  ])08He8- 
sion  of  his  rocky  home,  which  he  has  maintained  ever  since. 

Opposite  the  Whitestone  comes  in  Whitestone  Creek  from  the  ncrtli. 
Ifearherewe  came  to  a  trading-post,  on  the  left  ba  ik  of  the  stream,  oc- 
cupied by  a  man  named  Friedland^r,  who  carrier  on  quite  a  trade  wUh 
the  Indians  and  Chinamen  along  tho  river.  He  roiushes  his  place  )jy  a 
wagou-roatl  from  the  Great  Plain  above,  and  informed  me  that  it  is  an 
excellent  road  and  one  of  the  best  ways  of  getting  to  the  rivjr  that 
there  is.  We  remained  with  him  until  3 :10,  inquiring  nlH)ut  tho  country, 
the  Indians,  &c.,  and  at  a  distance  of  two  miles  from  his  place  we  reached 
Hell  Gate,  At  the  head  of  the  rapids  a  great  jutting  point  sticks  out 
from  the  left  bank,  narrowing  the  channel ;  below  this,  in  the  middle 
of  the  river,  is  a  great  rock  island,  with  the  channel  to  tlie  left ;  below 
and  nearer  the  right  bank  are  two  other  rock  islands.  These  islands 
form  a  partit!  dam  to  the  water  and  cau^e  rapids,  which  commence  '.,o- 
tweon  the  jutting  iK>int  and  the  flrst  groat  island  and  continue  for  a 
consider-ible  distance  below  the  last  rock  island.  Tho  channel  is  very 
ci-ooked,  as  will  be  pc?n  by  a  glance  it  the  map  of  this  portion  of  tlio 
river.  Although  a  biul  i^lace,  it  seems  to  me  that  a  good  steamer  would 
easily  ascend  the  rapids  acd  go  thro.igh  if  the  proper  course  was  taken. 
Tliis  course,  1  should  say,  wouI:i  ^d  to  hup  the  north  bank  until  nearly 
to  the  islands,  then  cross  over  to  the  south  bank  and  steam  well  up  to 
the  jutting  point  of  rocks,  and  then  cross  over  between  this  jutting  point 
and  the  first  islands,  and  then  around  the  jutting  point.  Tho  only  dan- 
ger that  a  Steamer  would  ^encounter  coming  down  would  be  that  some- 
thing would  happen  to  the  steering-gear. 

During  a  high  stage  of  water  the  jutting  point  mentioned  above  be- 
comes an  island,  and  the  currents  are  changed,  and  it  probably  would 
be  a  much  worse  place  to  go  through  than  during  low  and  miulium 
stages. 

Three  miles  below  we  passed  tho  mouth  of  the  Sans  Foil  River.    This 


82 


COLUMBIA   BIVKB. 


comes  in  from  the  north,  rising  in  the  mountains  nearly  ilno  west  of 
Kettle  Falls,  and  flows  through  a  region  in  which  there  is  much  good 
farming  land.  This  word  has  been  variously  spoiled,  but  the  above  I 
believe  is  correct,  as  it  seems  to  be  a  French  name  applied  to  the  In- 
dians living  along  its  banks,  on  account  either  of  the  scarcity  or  short- 
ness of  their  hair  and  beard,  or  from  the  fact  that  they  were  very  poor 
and  had  no  fu  '>  spII  to  the  traders.  Old  Pierre  told  me  that  this  latter 
was  the  origin    •  >rd. 

After  passing  i  u  two  ripples  we  went  into  camp,  at  4 :30  p.  m., 

on  the  left  bank  neai  .a  immense  spring,  which  came  pouring  out  f.-oin 
the  rocks  about  fifty  feet  above  the  river.  This  day  we  made  about 
twenty-three  and  a  half  miles. 

Tuesday,  October  4,  7 :52  a.  m.,  we  started  again  on  our  trip,  having 
pa^scil  an  uncomfortable  night  on  account  of  the  rain,  which  gave  us  a 
severe  wetting.  The  timber  has  been  getting  scarce,  and  along  this 
portion  of  the  river  very  little  is  seen,  except  where  some  breaking 
away  of  the  northern  bank  gives  a  glimpse  of  the  distant  hills,  which 
are  covered  with  forests. 

We  row  along  very  quietly  and  pleasantly,  with  an  occasional  ripple 
and  rock,  and  now  and  then  a  bar-island  and  rather  shallow  place  in 
the  river. 

10  a.  Ml. — After  about  eleven  milos  are  passed  we  come  to  the  mouth 
of  tlie  Grand  Coulee,  which,  however,  would  not  have  been  noticed  if 
old  Pierre  had  not  told  us,  as  it  presents  the  same  appcmrance  as  the 
rest  of  the  loft  bank,  the  Coulde  bottom  being  higii  above  the  river. 

Six  miles  further  on  we  came  to  Monaghaii's  Rapids.  These  arc 
caused  by  a  number  of  small  rocky  islands.  The  channel  is  toward 
the  left  bank.  During  the  early  winter  of  1879  and  '80,  James  Mou  ir 
ghan,  of  Colville,  one  of  the  most  enterprising  men  of  the  country,  wen^ 
from  Colville  with  some  rafts  of  lumber  and  supplies  to  the  troops 
camped  near  the  Okinakane.  On  these  rocks  he  struck  with  some  of 
his  rafts  and  had  great  trouble  to  get  off.  I  have  named  them  for  him. 
The  country  here,  what  we  can  see  of  it,  presents  a  very  weird,  wild 
appearance.  It  breaks  away  on  both  sides  with  white  cliffs  in  tlio  dis- 
tance, and  in  the  foreground  largo  black  rocks,  about  the  size  of  houses, 
scattered  here  and  there  over  the  brown  earth,  and  now  and  then  a 
lone,  sorrowful-looking  pine  tree. 

These  isolated  rocks  present  a  very  excellent  example  of  the  tremen- 
dous transporting  power  of  moving  ice.  They  have  evidently  been 
brouglit  down  from  tlie  upper  regions  of  the  river  on  floating  ice,  which, 
emerging  from  the  cafions,  has  grounded  with  its  immense  loa<ls  on  the 
gently-inclined  banks  of  this  portion  of  the  river.  The  rocks  are  mainly 
basalt,  of  crystalline  stnictare. 

About  two  miles  ftirther  down  we  come  to  another  strong  ripple, 
caused,  as  before,  by  rocks  in  the  stream.    One  of  these  immense  rocks 


u 


VI 


A    C1.1MHSE  OF  THE  GRAND   COULC 


ttn  EX.  ooc  *i*/9ti,  w  SCSI,  47III  com, 


COLUMUU   BIVEB. 


88 


soeinocl  to  bo  neiirly  spherical  ami  to  rest  in  an  aijparont  statu  of  very 
unstiiblo  oquilibriiuii.    TIiuho  I  have  called  Kqiiilibriuin  Rapids. 

Six  nulcs  furthor  wo  passed  the  mouth  of  tlu-  Nespileni  Kivor.  A 
Htron;;  ripple  exists  just  above  the  niohth  and  a  ^rn>nt  bar-island 
just  below.  The  country  here  is  very  much  terraced  ami  broken  on  the 
northern  side.  Down  the  river  further,  on  the  south  bank,  a  larjfe,  Hue 
bench  extends  along  the  river  for  several  miles.  It  is  divided  into  two 
or  three  terraces  and  covered  with  bunch-grass. 

The  river  is  generally  very  good  until  at  about  eight  and  a  half  miles 
further  we  reach  Oaunon  or  Mah-kin  Rapids,  which  are  nearly  a  mile 
long  and  very  swift.  They  seem  to  bo  caused  by  a  contraction  of  tho 
water-way  between  the  rooky  banks.  The  water  is  very  swift,  but  I 
think  that  at  this  season  a  steamer  could  ascetul  them.  It  would  be 
very  difficult,  however,  and  at  most  seasons  it  »vould  be  necessary  to 
use  a  line. 

These  rapids  may  be  considered  as  the  limit  of  na^'igation  for  a  great 
part  of  the  year;  and  a  portage  road  built  around  the  Great  Nesi»ilem 
Itapids  below  should  embrace  these  Mah-kin  Rapids. 

This  gives  a  stretch  of  river  from  Grand  Rapids  to  Mah-kin  Rapids, 
which  can,  I  believe,  generally  Lc  navigated,  the  only  two  obstructions 
of  note  being  Spokane  Rapids  and  Hell  Gate. 

Mah-kin  Rapids  are  the  first  bad  rapids  of  the  Nespiloin  Caflon. 
The  river  is  here  contracted  in  width  and  the  banks  are  steep  and  rocky. 
A  little  below,  the  shores  are  strewn  with  huge  masses  of  black  ba- 
saltic rock  of  all  sizes  and  shapes,  and  this  continues  for  several  miles, 
forming  a  characteristic  picture  of  (3oluml)ia  River  scenpry.  The  com- 
plete silence  and  lifelessness  add(id  to  the  scene  makes  it  excjcodingly 
wild,  almost  unearthly.  And  so  we  iilunge  along  swiftly  througli  the 
rolling  water,  with  huge  rocks  looming  up,  now  on  one  side  and  then 
on  the  other.  Kvery  stroke  of  the  oar  is  bearing  us  onward,  nearer  and 
nearer,  to  that  portion  of  our  voyage  most  dreaded,  the  tenible  Kali- 
chen  Falls  and  Whirlpool  Rapids.  We  hear  the  low  rumbling  of  the 
water,  and  see  the  tops  of  the  huge,  half-sunken  rocks  and  the  white 
foam  of  the  tumbling  wat^^rs.  For  a  few  moments  the  rowing  ceases, 
while  brave  old  Pierre  gives  his  orders  to  the  Indians  in  their  own 
tongue.  He  knows  that  everything  depends  upon  his  steering  and 
their  rowing  or  backing  at  the  right  moment,  with  iill  tho  strength  that 
they  possess.  Years  ago  he  was  in  a  Hudson  Bay  Company  bateau 
which  capsized  in  these  very  rapids,  and  ont  of  a  crew  of  KJ  men  .Si>«r- 
ished  in  the  water  and  on  the  rocks.  Tho  Indians  make  their  prepara- 
tions for  the  struggle  by  stripping  oif  all  their  superfluous  clothing,  re- 
moving their  gloves,  and  each  ties  a  bright-colored  handkerchief  tightly 
about  his  head ;  poles  and  extra  oars  are  laid  ready  in  convenient  i)lace8 
to  reach  should  they  become  necessary,  and  then  with  a  shout  the  In- 
dians seize  their  oars,  and  commence  laying  to  them  with  all  their 
strength.  We  are  rushing  forward  at  a  fearful  rate,  owing  to  the  coin- 
S.  Ex.  18(i 5 


■I 


34 


COLUMBIA   RIVEB 


bii>u4l  uxertiuus  of  the  ludiaus  and  the  raciug  current,  and  weahudder  at 
tliu  thuughtof  Htriking  any  of  the  huge  blauk  rocks  near  whicli  we  glide. 
Now  we  are  fairly  in  the  rapids,  and  our  boat  in  rushing  madly  through 
tlio  foam  and  billows;  the  ludians  arc  shouting  at  every  stroke  in  their 
wiltl  savage  glee;  it  is  infectious;  we  shout  too,  and  feel  the  wild  ex- 
ultation which  conies  to  men  in  moments  of  great  excitement  and  dan- 
ger. Ugly  masses  of  rock  show  their  heads  above  the  troubled  waters 
on  every  side,  and  sunken  rocks  are  discernible  by  the  action  of  the 
surf.  Great  billows  strike  us  fore  and  aft,  some  falling  squarely  over 
the  bows  and  drenching  us  to  the  waist.  This  is  bad  enough,  but  the 
worst  is  yet  to  come  as  we  draw  near  with  great  velocity  to  a  huge 
rock  which  appears  dead  ahead. 

Has  old  I'ierre  seen  it  J  The  water  looks  terribly  cold  as  we  think  of 
Ills  failing  eyesight.  Then  an  order,  a  shout,  backing  on  one  side  and 
])ulling  on  the  other,  and  a  quick  stroke  of  the  steering  oar,  and  the 
rock  appears  on  our  right  haud.  Another  command,  and  answering 
shout,  and  the  oars  bend  like  willows  as  the  Indians  struggle  to  get  the 
boat  out  of  the  strong  eddy  into  which  Pierre  hiul  thrown  her.  Finally 
she  shoots  ahead  and  passes  the  rock  like  a  Hash,  within  less  than  an 
oar's  length  of  it,  and  we  shout  for  joy  and  breathe  freely  again.  This 
eddy  becomes  in  a  high  stage  of  water  a  veritable  whirlpool,  with  the 
well  at  its  center  many  feet  in  depth.  Hence  the  name  of  Whirlpool 
liapids. 

For  half  a  mile  now  the  river  is  comparatively  good,  and  our  staunch 
crew  rest  on  their  oars  preparatory  to  the  next  struggle,  which  soou 
comes,  as  some  more  rocky,  foamy  rapids  are  reached.  Ucre  the  swells 
are  very  high  and  grand,  and  our  boat  at  one  time  seems  to  stAuA  almost 
perpendicularly.  Through  parts  of  these  rapids  the  river  is  very  narrow, 
from  300  to  400  feet,  with  perpendicular  banks  100  to  200  feet  in  height. 

For  about  nine  miles  further  the  river  continues  studded  with  rocks,  and 
swift,  with  ripples  every  mile  or  so,  until  we  reach  Foster  Greek  Kaitids. 
Here  the  rocks  become  thicker,  being  generally  toward  the  left  bank, 
with  the  channel  near  the  right,  and  the  water  iierce  and  wild.  For  a 
mile  more  wo  plunge  and  toss  through  the  foaming,  roaring  water, 
•imi«l  wild  yells  from  our  Indian  friends,  and  we  emerge  from  the  Foster 
Oreek  Kapids,  which  appear  to  be  as  rough  and  dangerous  as  any  place 
we  have  yet  encountered. 

We  are  now  fairly  out  of  the  Nespilem  Canon  and  through  all  the 
Nespilem  Itapids,  and  we  certainly  feel  greatly  relieved,  and  make  for 
the  shore  and  camp  at  t)ie  mouth  of  Foster  Creek,  where  some  of  the 
companies  of  the  Second  Infantry  passed,  very  uncomfortably,  the 
winter  of  1879-'8(K 

This  portion  of  the  river  through  which  we  have  come  to-day  is  the 
worst  on  the  vhole  river,  the  most  complete  bar  to  navigation.  From 
Mah-kin  Kapids  to  Foster  Creek  Itapids,  a  distance  of  about  twenty- 
seven  miles,  the  river  is  exceedingly  rough,  with  many  rapids,  rocks,  and 


'    li 


columhia  river. 


85 


rippliR,  and  a  contractort,  crooked  cliaiincl.  I  liml  no  inoaiiR  of  «lpt«'r- 
mining  the  fall  of  the  river  in  this  jjortion  of  its  course,  but  it  is  very 
groat.  A  8t«an)cr  could  come  down  through  this  stretch  of  river,  but  at 
coiisidorablo  risk ;  I  doubt  very  niU(;U  if  a  Rte^mcr  coidd  got  n])  through 
it  except  at  great  expentio,  time,  ami  risk. 

Foster  Creek  is  important,  us  it  is  along  its  course  that  a  wagon  road 
finds  an  easy  doi^ccnt  from  the  level  of  the  Oreat  Plain  to  the  (Columbia, 
and  by  the  same  route  a  railroiul  will  l)e  certain,  at  some  future  day,  to 
follow.    This  day's  traveling  we  niailo  about  sixty-three  miles. 

October  5,  wo  w.^le  an  early  start,  and  at  8:1.5  a.  m.  reached  the 
Okinakano.  I  si>eiit  considerable  time  examining  the  <!Ountry  to  the 
east  of  the  Okiiiakane,  and  found  it  to  cjonsist  of  a  large  flat,  covered  for 
the  most  part  with  rich  bunch  gniss,  and  the  soil  of  bla(;k  alluvial  loam, 
although  there  were  some  patches  of  sandy,  gravelly  soil  near  the  (Jo- 
lunibia. 

This  flat  embraces  about  four  square  miles,  and  upon  the  hills  and 
bluffs  to  its  rear  there  are  indications  of  fine  springs.  Water  «^ould  cer- 
tainly bo  easily  obtained  by  digging. 

Further  away  from  the  river  the  country  rises  iiito  bluffs  and  groat 
terraces  and  plateaus,  which  give  the  promise  of  being  fine  productive 
land.  There  in  a  great  deal  of  good  land  along  the  Okinakano  River 
and  in  its  vicinity,  and  good  mines  are  known  to  exist.  Some  mines 
were  discovered,  and  were  claimed  and  worked,  before  the  reservation 
along  the  river  was  set  apart  for  Chief  Moses  and  his  people.  Dis- 
putes have  arisen  between  the  miners  and  the  Indians  in  regard  to  the 
right  of  the  former  to  pursue  their  work.  This  has  been  the  subject  of 
a  recent  decision  at  Washington,  that  those  mines  which  were  dis(!0v- 
ered  before  the  reservation  wiis  set  apart  belong  to  the  discoverers  and 
owners,  who  must  not  be  interfered  with  in  working  them.  At  the 
mouth  of  the  Okiuivkane  was  a  ciimp  of  Indians,  fine  fierce-looking  bucks 
and  cleanly-looking  squaws.  The  latter  were  engaged  in  working  about 
the  camp,  cooking,  making  moccasins  or  gloves,  or  mending  clothes, 
while  the  men  wore  either  gambling  or  making  arrows  and  fishing- 
spears. 

I  went  into  their  camp  and  tried  to  get  into  conversation  with  them, 
but  tlioy  were  very  cold  and  surly  and  regarded  me  with  Husjiioion,  and 
I  was  reminded  of  the  romarkof  Alexander  Ross,  an  early  Astorian  and 
Northwestern  fur  trailer,  called  forth  by  a  long  residencjs  among  the 
Indians  at  old  Fort  Okinakano  and  throughput  the  fur  regions,  lie 
says: 

From  Chili  to  Atliabancn,  and  from  Nootka  to  tho  Labrador,  tlioro  iH  an  iiidcscrili- 
alilo  coldneas  about  .in  American  savage  that  chockH  fainiliikrity.  He  in  n  stran^iT  to 
onr  hopes,  our  fears,  onr  joys,  or  onr  Borrows  ;  his  eyes  are  seldom  ninJHteiied  by  a  tear 
or  his  foatnrrs  relaxed  by  a  smile;  and  whether  ho  basks  beneath  a  vortical  sun  on 
tho  bnniing  plains  of  Amazonia,  or  freezes  in  etcr-  al  winter  on  the  ice-bonnd  shores  of 
the  Arctic  Ocean,  tho  same  piercing  black  oyos  ,,nd  stern  immobility  of  conntonanco 
equally  set  at  nanght  the  slcill^of  the  physiognomist. 


:  i 


'  il 


86 


COUIMIIIA    RIVER 


Tilt",  following  extrwis  aro  from  tlie  voliimo  of  Rosh  (3ox,  n  niPinbor  of 
tlut  lirist  party  to  viuit  the  Okiinvkanc,  mid  tor  n  long  time  in  cliiirge  of 
Port  Okiiiiikiuioi 

I  hail  ii  Iniif;  siuiimoi  Ixtforo  tun  ;  it  Ih  tliH  iiiiHt  idio  himiwii  of  llio  yunr  ;  iiiul  iin  it  wns 
iiitoiiilitil  to  roliiiilil  unit  I'.titify  Oliinakniin  iliiriii){  tliii  vaoution,  I  lust  ni)  tiiiio  in  Hot- 
tiiiK  tint  men  to  work. 

Tim  innnitiliato  vicinity  iH  poorly  fnrnishol  with  tiinlinr,  and  onr  wooil-cuttorH  wore 
ol)1t)('iil  til  |irocooil  Honn)  iliHtnncu  up  thn  riviu'in  Hiinrcli  of  that  nocCMWry  nrtido,  which 
wiiH  tloitteil  ilown  in  ritftx.  Wo  ulito  (UtriviMlconHiiloralilii  iiHHiHtitiU'O  from  tlu^  imniitiiRO 
ipmntitii'N  of  ilriftwoml  tvliicli  wiis  intercoptoil  in  iin  ilescont  down  the  Colnmbia  by 
tho  )rroat  IhmhI  wliiih  timt  rivor  taknH  nliovn  tlic  OkinaK'^'i.  Many  haniln  mniUi  Uifht 
work,  itnil  onr  miin  iihuiI  snuli  ilJHpateli  that  beforo  tliu  month  of  Soptnmltor  w«  had 
urortril  anowilwullinK-honsu  fur  tho  purHon  in  cliargo,  co  jtuininK  four  oxvvllont  rooms 
anil  II  lai'>;ii  dining  liall,  two  good  Iioiihud  for  thu  nuni,  and  aHpauioiiM  Htoru  for  tliu  fiirii 
and  ini'rcliiindiw),  to  whicli  wax  attaclnid  aHliop  for  trading  witli  tliu  nalivoH. 

Tho  wbolii  was  Ht'.rronnded  by  strong  paliHadoH  llftoon  foet  liigh  and  llankod  liy  two 
linHlioiiN.  Kaidi  liaHtion  liad  in  its  h)wor  Htory  a  light  briuw  foiir-poniulpr,  and  in  tho 
upper,  looplioles  wuru  left  for  tbo  use  of  Diuaketry. 


Tho  climato  of  Okinagan  iohigltly  snInbrionH.  We  have foi  weeks  together  ob»orve<l 
thn  bliiK  nxpiuiHO  of  hcavun  unobHCured  by  a  single  cloud,  liain,  too,  is  very  iniconi- 
mori ;  but  heavy  dn\i's  fall  during  the  night. 

Tlio  Hilnation  of  Okinagan  m  admirably  adapted  for  a  trading  town.  With  fertile 
Noil,  a  healthy  dinnite,  horses  in  abniubmuo  for  land  carriage,  an  opening  to  the  sea 
by  the  Columbia,  and  a  commnnication  to  tho  interior  by  it  and  the  Okiimgan,  tho 
rivers  well  stocked  with  (isli,  and  the  natives  ijuiet  and  friendly,  it  will  in  my  opin- 
ion be  Holccted  at)  a  spot  pre-eminently  calculated  for  the  site  of  a  town  when  civiliza- 
tion (which  is  at  present  so  rapidly  migrating  towards  thowcstward)  crosses  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  roaches  the  Columbia. 

Tlie  following  extract  from  tlie  same  book,  "  Adventnros  on  tho  Oo- 
hinibia  River,"  i.s  given  for  the  benefit  of  consiinii)tive8  and  as  a  hint  to 
the  medical  fraternity.  If  it  does  not  cure  it  certainly  would  l)0  hi;;hly 
benof-iiial  as  a  system  to  bring  into  general  adoption  for  reivaons  wiiich 
Avill  be  ])idi)able  to  every  one  who  loves  not  cur  dogs. 

The  Okinagan  mode  of  curing  some  of  onr  diseases  would  probably  startle  many  of 
the  faculty.     The  loUowing  case  in  particul.ir  passed  under  my  own  obhjrvation  : 

One  of  the  proprietors  had  in  the  year  1H14  taken  as  a  wife  a  young  and  beautiful 
girl  whose  father  had  been  one  of  the  early  purtnurs,  and  wlioso  mother  was  a  half- 
breed  (her  grand. I. other  having  been  a  nativeof  the  Croo  tribe),  so  that,  althou^linnt 
a  imro  white,  she  was  fairer  tlian  many  who  are  so  calloil  in  Europe.  Ho  procw'deil 
with'her  to  Fort  George,  but  the  change  of  climate  from  the  dry  and  healtliy  plains  of 
Forts  lies  Prairies  to  tho  gloomy  forests  and  incessant  rains  on  tho  northwest  coast 
wivi  too  nnicli  for  her  delicate  frame,  and  she  fell  into  a  deep  consumption.  As  a  last 
reNonree,  her  husband  determined  to  send  her  to  Okinagan  to  try  the  change  of  air, 
and  rciincwtoil  me  to  procure  her  acconnnodation  at  that  place  for  the  summer.  This 
I  easily  nntnaged.  She  was  accompanied  by  n  younger  sister  vnd  an  old  female  attend- 
ant. She  was  in  i'lwA  little  luore  than  a  skeleton,  with  scarcely  any  symptoms  of 
vitality,  anil  her  whole  appearance  betokened  approaching  dissolution. 

Such  wa.i  the  state  .if  the  unforlnnale  patient,  when  an  old  Indian,  who  had  for 
some  days  observed  her  sitting  in  the  porch  door,  where  she  was  brought,  8iii)port<)d 
on  pillows,  to  rii.joy  the  fresh  air,  c.illod  mo  aside,  and  told  mo  ho  had  no  donbt  of  being 
able  to  cure  her  provided  I  should  agree  to  his  plan,  but  aildod  that  he  would  not  give 


COLUMIIIA    RIVKR. 


87 


any  «x|>1»natioii  or  Uio  moniiH  he  inliMiilnl  t<>  iiiw,  for  frnr  wn  iiiif^lit  IiiiikIi  uI.  Iiini, 
iililt'm  wi!  ('(iiiHi'iiti'd  to  lulopt  tlioiii.  Wn  ni-oonliiit(ly  Iii'lil  it  coiiNiiltittioli,  llii<  rcHiilt 
of  wliii'li  wiiH  that  (liu  luiliiui  hIioiiIiI  Ihi  uIIowi'iI  to  follow  IiIh  own  iiiiithiMl.  It  coiilil 
not  niiiko  lii^r  woi-w*,  and  tliurc  wuh  it  |MHwibilit.v  of  hiiv<m'hm. 

HaviiiK  itrqiutintetl  liiiii  with  hor  ni'i|ui<-M;«nri>,  h<<  iiiiin<Mlint/'iy  coniindiicnl  oporit- 
tioiiH  liy  m-i/.iii):  nil  ill-looking.  Hiiitrling  riir  (lo)(,  wliirh  lin  linlf  Htrfinf(l<'<l,  after  which 
ln(  (h'liliointely  nit  it.H  tliront.  Hi<  then  rIpiMMl  opni  the  Ix-lly  iiiiil  |i!u<'iiil  llin  Ii'Km  itiiil 
fiM't  of  tlio  )iiili)'nt  iiiHitlr,  xiirronnilutl  hy  thn  warm  iuti'jititi<>H,  in  which  poMition  ho 
kept  thoin  until  thu  eurciths  iHieaniu  cold.  IIi<  then  tutik  them  out  and  ltitndit)(«d  them 
with  wnriii  Ihtnnel,  which  ho  Raid  wit8  "  very  k<**>*1-" 

Thu  followiiiK  day  another  dof;  hmt  it«  life,  and  a  N'lnihtr  operation  waw  |ierloriiied. 
TIiIn  was  uontiniind  for  wnno  tim«  nntil  every  ill-dinpoHed  cnr  in  the  vlllaK'' '■■><l 'lii- 
nppoared  hy  the  thront-oiittiiiK  knife  of  our  doK-dcHtroyiiijr  doctor,  and  we  were 
ohli)(ed  to  purchase  Honie  of  a  superior  lireml.  While  Nhe  was  under)(oin);  IIiIh  procexii, 
hIio  took  iu  itddition  a  Miiiall  quantity  of  hark  daily  in  a  ii\asn  of  port  wine.  In  the 
menu  time  thenwellinK  gradually  decrea-sed,  the  liiiKera  hut  their  corpNO-like  iinked- 
11088,  the  hectic  lliiHhes  hecamo  rarer,  and  that  "  nioHt  pure  Hpirit  of  seime,"  the  cyuH, 
HavB  evident  tokens  of  roturiiiiif;  animation.  When  her  strength  permitted,  nIic  was 
plact^d  on  the  carringo  of  a  hrasH  Held-pieco,  8ni)portt?d  by  holnturs,  and  drawn  ocea- 
Hionally  n  mile  or  two  about  tlie  prairie. 

The  Iniliun  continued  at  intervals  to  repent  this  Htrniurn  application  nn*JI  the  gwoll- 
iug  had  entirely  disapiHiared,  and  enabled  her  once,  n'oiu  to  make  use  of  hor  liiiibs. 

Two-aud-thirty  dogM  lost  their  lives  in  bringing  about  this  uxtraonliiiary  recovery. 

She  gritdnall.v  regained  possession  of  her  appetite ;  and  when  her  husband  arrived 
in  the  niitumu  from  Fort  George,  for  the  purpose  of  cro.ssing  tho  moiintaiiiN,  she  was 
Btrong  enough  to  accompany  him.  The  following  summer  on  my  Journey  across  the 
continent  I  mot  them  at  Lac  la  Pluie.     She  was  in  thu  full  enjoyment  of  health. 

The  following  extract  fioin  Gov.  I.  I.  Stevens's  rei)ort  of  tlie  explo- 
ration of  General  (then  Captain)  G.  B.  MiiClellaii  is  given  as  heing  of 
interast  in  connection  with  the  Okinakane  River: 

On  October  5,  18.'i;l,  the  party  procecde*!  northward  from  Fort  Okiuakano,  along  tho 
river  of  that  name,  and  on  the  Dth  reac!<nd  a  point  in  latitude  4!)'^  W,  about  thirteen 
n'lluH  south  of  thu  Grunt  Lake.  There  is  little  dillicnlty  in  any  part  of  this  valley  for 
roiul-mnkiug,  but,  as  it  leads  to  uo  pass  westward,  further  uxploraticui  was  not  neces- 
sary. 

Tho  Hudson  Bay  trail  to  Fort  Langley,  on  Frnser's  River,  leaves  it  about  latitude 
49^  across  a  mountain  ridge,  to  the  west  fork  of  the  Okinakf  .  .  .d  another  between 
that  and  Fraser's  River.  It  is  represented  by  nil  as  bar'  i  r.'  .ticnblo,  and  going 
dinictly  across  tho  nioiintuius  instoitd  ot  through  uny  pus.<«. 

The  west  fork  (thu  8imilkaiiiuen),uearthecoullneuce,  has  no  valley — running  through 
an  immense  ravine,  impracticalde  fur  any  road. 

On  October  12,  1H,')3,  leaving  the  Okinakane  at  the  forks,  they  traveled  eiistward, 
crossing  a  high  ridge  to  a  small  river  (Kotfle  River)  tlowing  into  thu  Columbia,  op|io- 
site  Fort  Colvillo,  where  they  arrived  on  the  IHth,  ferrying  the  baggage  over  in  (taiioos 
and  swimming  tho  animals  safely  over.  Tho  country  traversed  since  leaving  Fort 
Okiuakuno  is  thus  described: 

The  north  bank  of  the  Columbia,  between  the  Mctliow  and  Okinakane,  is  low,  sandy, 
and  barren,  but  rises  into  grassy  sloi>es  at  a  few  miles  distjtnce,  which  towards  their 
gnmniits  Vcomo  covered  with  pino  woods. 

Tho  forest  ovideutly  descends  lower  towards  tho  north,  nnd  with  tho  improving 
grnss  shows  the  inlluenco  of  more  nbnndnnt  rnins. 

After  going alxmt  twelve  miles  up  the  Okinakane,  tho  country  grn<lually  improves  in 
npponrniice,  pines  nnd  cotton-woods  grow  nion>  aliiiudnntly,  aim  there  is  uvidciiMy  it 
large  ext«ut  both  of  the  valley  and  rolling  hills  bordering  it  capnbhi  of  cultivation. 


I 'I 


M 


COUIMHIA    RIVER. 


Atnlxty  iiiilPH,  liinvovor,  lofly  wcmhIoiI  IiIIIm  i'Iiihi<  in  on  ii*  bmnkii,  iiml  thrnce  to  tlie 
fiirty-iiinth  pnrnllol  it  iircHoiitM  littlii  iiKliU'rinciit  fur  M>ttli-nipnt,llionf{b  rapitlileof  Tiir- 
niiiliinK  abnn<liiiir(t  iil'  (>x(')!ll)'nt,  timber. 

TlHirii  Ih  n  flnn  fall  im  tlio  Okinnkaiio,  thirty-flve  niilmi  •bov<>  its  month,  of  five  foot 
(litcli,  mill  nlioiit  twenty  niili'H  fiirtlinr  up,  on  its  woi«t  fork,  f»nr  mitnt  sliovo  tlio  Junc- 
tion, another  full  iif  ton  fm^t,  Hiipplyiii);  itlinndance  of  watcr-powrr.  On  the  top  of 
the  lofty  table  iif  Ihn  Orent  I'luin,  oppimito  the  mouth  of  the  Okinakano,  in  ii  enn- 
milerikble  extent  of  pinn  wooiIh,  gevenil  tliiiniukiiil  fet't  iilmre  the  Columbia,  into  which 
it  ciinlil  be  eoflily  tlirown  or  hIIiI  ilowii,  uh  the  rliff  in  alnioat  |irr|M>niliriilar.  TIiIh  In 
probably  the  hi);lieHt  point  of  the  plain,  and  in  tlin  point  wbern  a  «)>ur  appear)  to  oroMt 
the  river  and  to  Rink  into  tlio  lovelof  the  plain. 

I  atn  HtroiiKly  of  tlio  opinion  tliat  at  the  montli  of  the  Okiiinkanc  there 
iH  ImxiiuI  to  be  ii  commercial  and  manufacturing  center  at  Aonio  time  in 
the  future,  wlicn  tlie  whole  cotintry  in  thrown  open  to  Hettlement.  There 
iH  a  great  deal  of  e.xcollent  land  in  itH  vicinitj'  for  agrienltnml  and 
grazing  puri>oHoa,  and  it  is  easily  reached  from  any  direction. 

Uy  striking  Foster  Creek  at  its  hea<l  and  following  it  down,  a  very 
easy  and  gradual  descent  is  found  to  the  river ;  thence,  keeping  along 
the  left  bank  of  the  Columbia  over  very  favorable  gronnd  until  a  jtoint 
oi)])osite  the  Okinakane  is  reached,  it.  an  excellent  railroad  route.  Thence, 
if  the  Okinakane  is  navigable,  steamers  could  penetrate  into  the  intv 
rior,  or,  if  not,  a  line  of  niilroad  could  be  built  along  the  river,  and 
a  eomnierce  of  great  extent  would  grow  up  as  soon  an  these  Indian 
reservations  are  thrown  open  to  the  public  and  settlers  discover  their 
attractions.  The  tine  tracts  of  timber  found  along  the  Okinakane  in 
itti  upper  parts  would  furnish  one  of  the  most  imi>ortant  articles  of  com- 
merce, being  floated  down  the  river  to  itM  mouth,  tliere  to  be  manufact- 
ured and  shipped  by  water  down  the  river,  or  by  rail,  to  the[»eople  set- 
tled on  the  Great  Plain  oi>po8ite.  Oitjtosite  the  month  of  the  Okinakane 
the  blufts  back  away  to  a  considerable  distance,  and  leave  near  the 
river  a  flue  tlat  containing  from  three  to  four  square  miles.  The  timber 
mentioned  V)y  Captain  McClellan  as  covering  the  blufl's  opjMisite  the 
mouth  of  the  river  is  very  much  exaggerated.  Only  a  small  amount 
exists  on  the  slopes  of  the  blutfs  near  the  top,  and  in  the  gullies  near 
the  top.  The  tippearance  from  the  river  is  deceptive,  an<l  would  lead 
any  one  to  l)elieve  that  there  was  considerable  timber  there;  bnt  per- 
sonal examinations  made  by  me  in  1879  disprove  this.  There  were  no 
white  people  living  anywhere  in  the  vicinity  where  I  passed. 

About  nine  miles  from  the  Okinakane  the  Methow  River  comes  in 
from  the  northwest.  The  country  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Columbia 
between  these  two  rivers  consists  of  a  succession  of  nearly  level  benches 
or  terraces,  some  having  very  fertile  and  rich  soil,  and  others  being 
comi)osed  largely  of  sand  drifts.  These  benches  stretch  away  from  the 
river  to  the  timber,  which  appears  on  the  higher  grounds  about  G  or  7 
miles  to  the  rear. 

The  Methow  River  is  a  stream  of  considerable  size,  being  fonlable 
only  at  the  lower  stages  of  water.  It  shows  evidence  that  during  high 
water  it  becomes  a  terrible  torrent — det'p,  wide,  and  swift.    The  country 


:   "T*         "'','  ((.;  ,  [^^ 


COLUMBIA    RlVUIt. 


89 


in  I'm  vicinity  iH  strewn  witli  great  bowlden*,  wliidi  extend  into  tlie  Co- 
Ininbin  Kiver,  I)eiiiK  tlio  priuuiital  eiiUM^  of  tliti  Mt-tliow  l{ii|>iil8,  wlilcli 
h»ro  form  un  inipeiliniunt  to  tiie  ntiviKOtion  of  the  C'oliinibia.  Tliuiie 
nipitlH  an>  not  biul  (mioiikIi  to  prevent  Hloitnierit  fnini  Roing  np  or  down, 
at  anyrntu  during  low  anil  niediuiii  HtuRexof  water,  altliouRli  tlie  water 
18  very  Hwift.  It  in  liigldy  probable  tliut  during  liigli  wivter  HteanierH 
uiiglit  not  be  able  to  aucund  witliout  tlie  uHe  of  a  line. 

Tlie  river  between  the  Okinakane  and  Metliow  in  verj-  go«Ml  for 
HtMindxiating,  with  theexeeption  iierhaiwofa  bar  Hituatt  d  at  a  lH>iid  of 
the  river  about  two  luiloH  below  the  Okinakane.  l'|M>n  l  im  bar  (here 
waM  aliout  seven  feet  of  water  when  wo  pawed  over  it,  vliich  depth 
would  probably  bo  reduced  to  sHwnt  three  or  four  feet  f'  extreme  low 
water. 

Captain  McClollan's  ro|)ort  h|>i  aks  of  the  Mcthow  in  this  fashion : 

Tlio  M«thi)W  Rivrr,  wliicli  wng  i'X|i1on><l  iiKiirly  to  it«  iiniirc<«,  lin«  a  <-»imi(li>rit)>l(i 
oxtoiit  of  giHHl  BKriciilliirnl  anil  KrnziiiK  Iniiil  ill  iU  upper  vallvy.  Itx  lowt-r  part,  fur 
twciit}'  iiiilrH  up,  iit  lieniuiuil  in  by  hi);)!  wiknIi-iI  hills;  alwvo  tliio,  llicy  Im>i'o!iiu  moru 
nilling  anil  griuuiy,  and  its  bunks  aro  bordero«l  by  level  wide  t4:rTa<^-«  uf  butter  mtil 
than  thiMte  on  the  Yakiina. 

I  Iiave  understood  that  quite  a  numlter  of  Indians  live  in  the  Upiier 
Methow  Valley. 

After  two  and  a  half  hours  more  of  pleasant  traveling  thntiigh  a 
giMxl  river,  with  a  swift  and  even  iHirrcnt,  and  here  and  there  a  little 
ripple  and  sand-bar  island,  we  reached  the  river  landing  opposite  Lake 
('helan,  and  luiule  camp  among  our  old  friends  the  Chelan  Indiana, 
whose  principal  village  is  locatetl  here.  In-nomo-setch-a,  the  chief,- is 
an  old  man,  and  is  one  of  the  best  Indians  that  it  has  ever  been  my  lot 
to  meet.  The  highest  character  is  given  him  by  nil  who  know  him, 
for  honesty,  sobriety,  entire  trtistworthiness,  and  a  cheerful  tlesire  to 
give  everybody  all  the  assistance  in  his  power.  He  was  absent  when 
we  arrived,  but  soon  returned.  His  oldest  son,  "Bill,"  how«;ver,  met 
us  with  apparent  joj'  and  did  all  he  coidd  to  make  us  i^mfort4tble.  Ho 
ha«I  been  unfortunate  of  late  in  getting  into  a  tight  with  another  Indian, 
who  had  cut  his  nose  almost  completely  oft'  his  face.  He  had  it  all 
plasteretl  up  with  some  kind  of  pitch  ointment  that  the  Indians  pru- 
pared,  but  he  will  be  a  noseless  Indian  for  the  remainder  of  his  life. 

Chelan  Creek  comes  iuto  the  Columbia  altont  one  mile  below  the  In- 
ilian  village ;  it  is  altout  two  and  a  half  miles  long  from  the  lake  to  it« 
mouth,  in  which  distance  it  has  a  fall  of  about  25U  feet. 

I  first  visited  Lake  Chelan  iu  the  summer  of  1879,  when  searching 
for  a  sit*  for  a  military  post  in  its  vicinity.  Colonel  Mcrriam  of  the 
Second  Infantry,  and  I,  with  lu-no-mo-setch-a  and  one  of  his  sons,  pjwi 
died  about  twenty-four  miles  up  the  lake  in  a  dug-out  canoe,  and  found 
that  the  farther  tip  we  went  the  more  granrl  and  lM>autifuI  the  scenery 
l>ecame.  About  its  mouth  there  is  a  large  area  of  arable  pniirie  land. 
The  hills  in  the  vicinity  are  covered  with  trees,  and  the  lake  shores, 


! 


II 


mi 


40 


COLUMBIA   BIVEB. 


with  tho  oxcei)tiou  of  those  near  the  outlet,  are  conii»letc1y  timbered. 
Tlio  Hliores  are  in  phwjes  exceedingly  Hteep,  tha  granite  vails  rising 
smooth  and  shiny,  without  a  tree  or  blade  of  grass,  for  a  thousand  feet 
or  more  from  the  water's  edge. 

Numbers  of  bciiutiful  little  streams  put  into  tho  lake,  and  generally 
about  their  mouths  there  is  a  fine  •series  of  flats  or  benches.  One  which 
I  recall  to  mind  on  the  south  shore  of  the  like,  about  twelve  miles  from 
the  mouth,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  pi  aces  tbat  I  have  ever  seen. 
Fine  timber  exists  along  the  lake,  and  can  oasily  be  cut  and  put  in  it 
and  brought  down  to  its  mouth.  Oolonel  Merriam  afterward  went 
further  up  the  lake,  aiid  says  that  the  timber  becomes  better  and  better 
as  tho  lake  is  iiscended,  and  cedar  is  foudn  about  the  head  of  it.  wJiich 
region  he  describes  as  being  wonderfully  grand.  At  the  extreme  upper 
end  he  fourul  solid  vertical  walls  of  rock,  and  on  these,  several  hundred 
feet  above  the  water's  edge,  were  a  large  nu  nber  o*  hieroglypiiics  v/ritten 
on  a  horizontal  line,  ev'dently  by  people  in  boats  when  the  waters  were 
at  this  higher  level.  Abo'.e  the  first  line  were  others  at  varying  alti- 
tudes, but  always  in  a  horizontal  line.  The  present  Clielaii  Indians 
couhl  tell  nothing  about  them,  but  said  that  they  must  have  been  made 
by  i)eople  who  lived  there  long  before  they  came  there  to  reside. 

I  hope  during  the  coming  summer  to  go  up  the  I;}ke  and  examine  and 
skettih  these  aged  marks.  Perhaps  it  may  be  possible  to  interpret  them, 
and  thus  gain  a  link  in  tho  chain  of  the  history  of  tho  aborigines  ot 
this  country.  Siuiilai  marks  are  said  to  exist  in  a  rocky  point  on  Lake 
Pond  d'Oreille,  which  the  IndianL  egard  with  superstitious  awe,  never 
going  by  them,  believing  that  they  form  the  outward  token  and  sign  of 
the  evil  spirit,  who  v,  ill  punish  them  if  they  go  near. 

In  tho  spring  of  1880,  the  troops  which  had  been  encamped  at  the 
mouth  of  Foster  Creek  for  the  winter,  removed  to  Lake  Chelan,  and 
Camp  Clielan  was  established  just  where  the  lake  narrows  in^«  the 
creek,  on  a  beautiful  bunch-grass-covered  plateau  on  tho  north  bank, 
stretching  back  about  a  mile  to  the  rocky  and  timbered  '<il!r(.  Here  the 
work  of  erecting  a  saw-mill  and  building  the  post  was  carried  on  with 
vigor  and  rapidity,  conside-'ng  that  everything  had  to  be  done  by  tho 
labor  of  tli.'>  troojjs,  with  a  very  little  assistance  from  outside. 

Temi)orary  dwellings  ha<l  to  be  erected,  brick  made,  logs  cut  and 
brought  down  and  made  into  lumber  at  a  temporary  Mill,  the  saw-mill 
built,  roads  made  from  the  ri\er  up  the  stoei)  blufls  to  the  lake,  and  a 
thous'  ul  other  things  done  which  can  only  be  appreciated  by  those  who 
havi  to  build  a  post  in  the  wilderness,  hundreds  of  miles  away  from  any 
point  of  supplies.  The  (!liief  drawbacks  to  this  |)cst  werf-  Mw  tfciTible 
roiul  getting  dowii  to  the  river  from  the  GF«at  Plain  on  the  enrt,  the 
descent  being  about  2,.'">(K>  feet;  the  crossing  of  tho  river  where  there 
was  quite  a  swift  current;  and  the  ascent  of  the  hill  to  tlie  lake.  All 
these  drawbacks  so  im])ressed  themselves  upon  the  mind  of  <leneral 
Schriver,  inspector-general  of  tho  division,  that  he  rej  lorted  very  strongly 


COLUMBIA   ElVEB. 


41 


agiiiust  the  location,  aud  recommended  that  it  bo  abandoued  and  bomo 
other  point  selected  for  a  post.  This  was  done,  and  the  present  site  oi 
Camp  Spokane  was  selected. 

Wliile  the  troops  were  in  this  vicinity  and  in  constant  intercourse 
witli  the  Indians,  the  condition  of  tlio  latter  visibly  inijirovcd ;  they 
learned  to  do  many  things  in  the  mechanic  arts  that  they  had  not 
known  before ;  they  were  willing  to  work  and  many  of  tln>ni  earned 
considerable  sums  of  money,  and  a  feeling  of  desire  to  labor  and  pros- 
pc  ■,  and  lay  up  for  the  future,  was  rapidly  taking  the  place  of  the  old 
careless  improvidence. 

Procuring  a  couple  of  ponies  from  the  Indians,  Mr.  Downing  and 
myself  went  up  the  steep  roa<l  and  over  the  plain  to  pay  a  visit  lo  the 
lake  and  the  old  camp.  Everything  was  about  as  the  troops  liad  left 
it,  and  it  certainly  presented  a  sorrowful  appearance,  with  its  tent  and 
shanty  frames  standing,  the  deserted  sutler's  store,  and  old  tin  cans  and 
commissary  boxes  innumerable.  There  was  quite  an  amount  of  lumber 
piled  up  in  good  condition,  and  everything  was  untouched  and  undis- 
turbed by  the  Indians ;  not  an  Indian  was  visible  except  an  old  sipiaw, 
who  had  been  to  somf^  point  up  the  lake  and  gathered  a  large  basket  of 
elderberries  which  she  was  carrying  home  on  her  head.  Tlie  Indians 
could  nuike  themselves  very  comfortable  i:i  sonie  of  the  desened  build- 
ings if  they  were  so  minded,  but  they  prefer  their  homes  on  the  river 
at  tlie  foot  of  the  blufi's,  where  flue  springs  gush  out  and  they  have  rich, 
productive  gardens. 

Daring  the  night  our  sleep  was  disturbed  by  the  bowlings  and  moan- 
ings  of  au  old  medicine  man,  who  was  performing  his  hideous  incanta- 
tions over  a  poor  girl  nearly  dead  with  the  consumption.  Tliey  did  not 
seem  to  know  cf  the  Ukinakane  dog  cure  of  consumption,  or  did  not 
wish  to  spare  their  dogs  *'ir  this  purpose. 

Th  general  character  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  river  from 
Spokane  to  Chelan  may  be  described  in  a  few  words.  The  river  ilows 
through  a  deep  and  rugged  canon  wIl  ery  little  bottom  land  along  its 
banks.  It  can  be  approa<;hed  from  the  Great  Plain  on  the  south  only 
in  three  places  :  by  the  Virginia  J'-  i  road,  Whitestone  road,  and  Foster 
Creek.  From  the  nortli  it  can  be  approaclied  in  aor(!  places,  and  gen- 
erally wherever  a  stream  comes  in  a  good  easy  way  exists  of  getting  to 
the  river.  The  country  to  the  north  has  been  very  mnch  nu)re  eroded 
than  that  to  the  south. 

Soo;  after  leaving  the  Big  Bend  the  timber  begins  to  disupiicar  from 
the  nver,  and  soon  can  only  be  seen  in  scattcririg  trees  in  the  ravines, 
aud  in  large  (luantity  only  when  a  vista  allows  a  sight  of  the  distant 
northern  hills. 

When  the  Colville  Indian  Ileservation  is  thrown  open  to  settlement, 
and  becomes  populate<rwith  thrifty  and  indiistrions  whites,  a  .•ailroiid 
vvdl  be  needed  up  tlie  Sans  Poil  Valley.    But  of  course  this  will  not  i)e 
required  lor  a  long  time. 
S.  Ex.  180— — <J 


■  'a 
,  Jj 

'y 


m 


42 


COLUMBIA   HIVGB. 


CHAPTER    rv. 

LAKH  CHELAN  TO  SNAKE  IllVElt. 

October  0. — Wo  left  Chelan  at  7 :30,  after  saying  gocMl-bye  to  our  1  udian 
friends,  and  with  a  guml  Hwift  current  went  gliding  rapidily  along.  In 
about  one  mile  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Chelan  Creek,  a  roaring  little 
stream.  TiMsing  thixiugh  an  occasional  ripple,  we  came  soon  to  some 
quite  strong  rapids,  caused  by  a  collection  of  rocks  near  the  left  bank. 
These  I  have  called  ^^  Downing' a  Rapids,"  from  my  assistant,  Mr. 
Alfred  Downing,  who,  during  the  previous  year  while  encamped  at  the 
CI  elan  Crossing,  got  adrift  in  a  small  boat  and  went  through  this  por- 
tion of  the  river  at  night,  and  wa^  wrecked  in  Bock  Island  liapids, 
and  barely  escaped  with  his  life. 

At  seven  miles  from  Chelan  Creek  we  came  to  a  rapid,  where  the 
water  flows  over  a  bowlder  and  gravelly  bar,  on  which  there  was  a  de])th 
of  from  seven  to  eight  feet.  The  cunent  sets  very  strongly  from  the  left 
to  the  right  bank.  V/e  pass  three  small  streams  coming  in  from  the 
west,  and  begin  to  meet  with  some  of  the  beautiful  rock  scenery  with 
which  we  are  soon  t«  bo  charmetl.  xho  right  bank  of  tho  river  is  a 
steep,  rocky  bluft',  about  2,000  feet  in  height,  and  is  striped  with  strata 
of  dia'erent-colored  rocks,  principally  white,  gray,  nearly  bliujk,  ami 
dark  brown.  It  is  all  volcanic  rock,  and  the  Ribbon  Bluff  presents  a 
very  handsome  appearance.  Five  or  si:;  miles  further  down  we  come  to 
the  Enti-atqua  River,  a  fine  stream,  coming  ii:  from  the  west.  There 
is  (juito  an  Indian  village  on  its  banks,  and  several  of  the  Indiars  were 
engaged  in  spearing  salmon  from  canoes,  padu'.'»d  and  poled  al  i  g  the 
the  shallows  by  assistants.  Just  below  the  mouth  of  tho  Enti-at-cpia 
Itiver  there  are  a  number  of  bar  islaudw,  and  the  river  is  very  shallow. 
Wo  api»arently  went  in  tho  main  channel,  and  I  found  only  three  feet  of 
water  over  the  bar.  It  is  barely  possib'e  that  a  deeper  channel  exists, 
but  1  iio  iiot  think  so.  The  ri<er  is  spread  out  and  the  bar  is  evidently 
formed  by  the  material  brought  down  by  the  Enti-at<iua,  wiien,  in  the 
spring  or  summer,  it  becomes  transformed  into  a  raging  torren*^.  As  it 
was  considerably  above  low  water  when  we  came  down,  it  would  ap- 
pear that  this  bar  may  cause  considerable  trouble  during  the  very  low 
stages  of  wat«r,  and  boats  should  be  made  as  light  in  draught  as  pos- 
sible to  pass  over  it.  This  is  tho  shallowest  water  mot  with  yet.  At 
the  lower  end  of  the  bar  is  quite  a  strong  little  rapid. 

Five  miles  further  down  there  is  a  commanding  point  on  the  left  bank, 
from  which  a  view  can  be  obtained  for  a  long  distance  up  aiul  down  the 
river,  and  has  for  many  years  been  used  by  the  Indians  as  a  lookout 
station.  I  called  it  Longview  Point.  A  short  distance  of  about  a  mile 
below  Longview  Point  there  is  a  large  number  of  rocky  points,  rising 
from  tho  water  near  the  right  bank,  causing  swift,  turbulent  water. 


COLtlMlUA    RIVER. 


43 


which  will  probably  get  iiiiich  worse  as  the  water  rises.  The  river 
is  now  excellent  as  far  down  as  the  Wenatchec  River,  which  we  reach 
at  i  :30.  This  river,  for  the  lower  part  of  its  course,  flows  through  a 
level  pl.iin  of  tine  agricnltnral  land,  containing  from  twenty  to  thirty 
scpiare  miles.  To  the  west  rise  the  foothills  of  tlie  Wenatchee  Mount- 
ains, and  we  get  a  view  now  and  then  of  the  snowy  summits. 

Across  the  Columbia  the  blutfs,  which  have  lined  the  river  bank 
pretty  closely  since  Chelan  was  left,  liero  break  bacik  (sonsiderrbly  into 
more  rounded  hills,  and  it  is  possible  that  skillful  engineering  may, 
in  time,  bring  a  railroad  down  to  the  river  at  this  point,  if  it  ever  be- 
comes necessary  or  desirable.  This  has  always  been  a  favorite  crossing- 
pla,50  with  the  Indians,  and  their  trails  lead  from  here  in  every  dirtw- 
tion. 

There  is  one  settler  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wenatchee,  a  man  named 
Miller,  who  has  a  store  and  a  ranch,  with  a  very  ])romising  orchard. 
The  Columbia  hero  widens  considerably,  and  the  Wemitcheo  has  de- 
posit<?d  iir  ii-  an  enormous  amount  of  dvbris,  forming  at  the  present  stage 
a  number  of  ilat  bar  islands,  and  causini,'  a  very  decided  shallowing  of 
the  river,  there  being  not  more  than  thni^  or  four  feet  of  watt^r  in  what 
appeared  to  be  the  nmin  channel  Any  st;eamlwiat-laiiding  for  Vvenat- 
cliee  Kiver  had  better  be  below  moutii  about  a  mile  or  more.  At  the 
lower  end  of  these  flat«  there  is.  ng  rapid.     Mi.  Miller  informed  me 

that  ihere  was  a  pretty  good  wagon  itwd,  whidi  IumI  been  built  during 
the  occupancy  of  Chelan  as  a  militavy  po.st,  fr^  i  the  Kittitas  V'alley  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Wenatt;hee.  It  goes  down  Llie  ('<«lnniliia  for  ti  or  six 
miles  and  then  breaks  to  the  west. 

After  leaving  the  Wenatchee  for  a  few  miles  the  river  was  very  good, 
bul  we  soon  began  to  encounter  rapids  and  rocks  in  great  abnndan«H>. 
Looking  down,  we  see  almost  a  continuous  wall  across  the  i  <  r,  (ormed 
by  the  uplifted  island  points,  and  around  us  bubbles  a  '  whirls  the 
water  over  the  sunken  rt)cks,  whose  heads  lie  just  below  the  surface. 
The  rocks  iire  projecting  points  of  black  ba.s  .Itic  roi^k,  and  tliis  is  cer- 
tainly a  part  of  the  river  requiring  skillful  navigation.  The  rock  1  ind 
shores  are  steej)  and  rugged.  On  we  glide,  winding  in  an<l  on;  mong 
the  rocks,  guided  by  the  experienced  hand  of  old  Pierre,  ai  mn  wo 
begin  to  hear  a  more  dcfiided  roar  and  rumble  on  ahead,  and  to  reali/.e 
that  wo  are  fast  nearing  the  dresuled  Hock  Island  Kajiids.  Soon  the 
boat  is  steered  to  the  shore,  and  old  Pierre  gets  out,  and,  with  his  In- 
dians, goes  on  ahead  to  take  a  look  at  the  state  of  things  below  and 
determine  on  his  ".ourso  through  the  rocks,  and  explain  to  the  Indians 
what  they  must  do.  Finally,  after  an  animated  discussion  among  them, 
it  is  <lecided,  and  all  rtitwrn  to  the  boat  an<'  prepare  for  the  passage,  as 
at  the  Nespilem  Kapids,  by  removing  gloves  an<l  all  superfluous  (cloth- 
ing md  tying  re<l  handkerchiefs  tightly  about  their  heads.  Choosing 
the  right-hand  channel,  our  boat  hugs  the  right  bank  i)retty  (ilosely, 
passing  sate!;;'  the  upper  rijiple,  and  ajtparently  going  straight  for  8«»me 


44 


COLUMlUA    RIVER. 


y.vffiioxl,  rocky  ])oiiito  juttiiifj  ont  from  the  Hliore  below.  Bt>foro  she 
roiiclics  tlioin,  liov/ever,  she  is  caught  ia  an  eddy,  and  it  is  only  by  tlio 
most  supifiiie  exertion  that  our  oarsmen  can  get  her  out.  Finally  she 
is  free,  and  away  she  goes  like  a  bird,  shooting  through  between  the 
.jiitti:ig  points  and  the  large  island  into  the  main  rapid,  wiiere  she  is 
almost  engulfed  in  the  tumbling,  roaring  waters;  on  she  goes  into  the 
river  below,  and  then  makes  for  the  shore,  and  we  go  into  camp  for  the 
nifiht;  on  the  right  bank,  just  below  the  rapids. 

Much  better  idea  can  be  obtained  of  these  rapids  by  tho  mr.p  oi'  them 
whioli  accompanies  this  report  than  can  he  formed  by  any  description. 
There  are  two  channels,  the  east  and  west.  We  used  the  west,  and  at 
this  stage  of  water  I  liave  every  reason  to  believe  that  a  good,  power- 
ful steamer,  properly  handled,  could  go  up  it. 

Old  Pierre  says  that  in  extreme  low-water  this  channel  becomes 
nearly  dry,  and  in  this  condition  is  unnavigable.  This  west  channel  is 
consiflerably  wider  than  the  ea«t  one,  and  is  quite  straight,  except  at 
the  lower  end,  where  it  is  rendered  crooked  by  the  jutting  bed-rock. 

The  oast  channel  is  the  dee-ier  one  aiui  is  the  better  one,  Pierre  says, 
in  low-wawr  and  also  in  exti*  .ue  high- water,  but  in  ordinary  stages  the 
west  one  is  the  better. 

The  small  steamer  Chelan  was  brought  down  during  high-water 
through  the  east  channel,  and  she  struck  two  or  three  times  on  account 
of  breaking  her  rudder,  but  managed  to  escape.  The  course  is  very 
crooked,  and  there  is  quite  a  fall  nejirthe  heml  of  the  large  island  which 
divides  the  channel.    There  are  several  sunken  j-ocks  among  the  rapids. 

In  regard  to  the  improvement  of  navigation  at  these  rapids,  theproper 
system  to  be  adopted  can  only  be  determined  after  observations  extend- 
ing over  months  have  beeu  taken.  I  will  hazard  the  assertion,  how- 
ever, that  for  all  ordinary  stages  (if  water  the  west  channel  can  be  made 
navigable  by  the  removal  of  rocks  and  j(i.  ling  points.  In  com])ariHon 
with  the  Nespilem  liapids,  the  obstructions  caused  by  these  raitids  is 
slight. 

All  along  on  the  east  side  of  the  Columbia  the  bluffs  are  precii)itou8 
and  2,000  to  2,500  feet  in  height,  being  in  some  places  nearly  jierpen- 
dicular  and  in  others  slightly  broken  away.  In  some  i)lace8  the  bluffs 
r((ce(le  short  distances  frtun  the  shore  to  give  plac3  to  bowlder  llata. 
The  west  side  is  still  more  mountainous,  but  is  brokca  here  and  there 
by  a  small  stream,  and  through  the  gaps  distant  views  of  wooded  and 
snowy  mountains  are  had.  Nothing  of  this  kind  brea'  the  monotony 
of  the  eastern  shore.  There  are  several  Indian  farm  >  along  the  river 
between  Chelan  and  these  rapids,  and  a  number  of  Cliiiiese  miners  were 
j)iissed  during  the  day.  An  excellent  route  for  a  portage  exists  along 
the  western  shore  on  a  terrace  about  one  hundred  fict  above  the  water. 

After  leaving  the  main  rapids  wo  ))a8sed  throu;;!)  about  one  mile  of 
river  ni  whii^h  wei-e  many  nniks,  and  then  through  arapiil  of  (ionsidora- 
ble  strength.    Then  ciime  a  quiet  stretch  of  water  for  tiiree  or  four  milc», 


JKodhlsLandL  Rapids 

Columbia  Rh^€r 


\i  ^ 


COLUMBIA   RIVRR. 


46 


nnd  Cabinot  Rapida  wcro  roachod.  Tlioso  aro  cansod  by  focUh  Ntickiiif; 
ii])  nuar  tliu  left  bank  and  jnttint;  out  therefrom.  The  rapidH  arc  Hwill 
and  bad,  and  if  the  river  is  to  be  navigated  ninat  bo  improved  by 
removing  Mome  of  the  points  of  rocks  and  regularizing  tlio  n1oi>o.  Jnst 
below  these  rapida  there  is  a  Goulde  mouth  on  the  I(>ft  bank. 

A  few  miles  further  down  tliere  stAiids  in  the  Columbia  River  a  rock 
which  is  one  of  the  most  i>erfect  profile  rocks  in  existence.  Approach- 
ing it  from  the  north,  it  presents  a  striking  likeness  to  the  profile  of 
(iueen  Victoria,  from  which  circumstance  it  was  given  the  name  of  "  Vic- 
toria Rock."  Coming  nearer  to  it  and  passing  it  on  the  west,  the  profile 
changes  and  merges  into  a  more  Grecian  and  Sphinx-like  face,  whoso 
placid  immobility  takes  one's  mind  involuntarily  to  far  of!"  Egypt.  It 
rises  from  the  surface  of  the  water  alwnt  one  hundred  feet,  and  a  pair 
of  eagles  have  selected  it  as  their  home,  and  upon  its  extreme  top  have 
built  a  nest,  giving,  as  it  were,  a  crown  to  this  goddess  of  the  Cobnnbia. 
The  T-jck  is  of  columnar  black  basalt 

The  portion  of  the  river  in  which  this  rock  is  situated  is  very  grand 
and  beautiful.  The  banks  are  nearly  precipitous  bluflfs,  from  2,(KM)  to 
3,000  feet  high,  composed  of  columnar  black  basalt,  which  takes  many 
wonderful  shapes  and  protluces  many  pleasing  effects,  rivaling  the 
famous  Giant's  Causeway  of  Ireland  in  weird  beauty.  The  columns  are 
in  every  conceivable  position,  sometimes  pile<l  up  like  cordwood,  in 
some  pliiccs  erect,  and  in  others  inclined ;  some  great  masses  are  twisted 
i>nd  bent,  forming  niches,  arches,  grottos,  crowns,  &c.  In  one  of  these 
niches,  a  thousand  feet  above  the  river,  there  lies  in  an  inclined  position 
a  stick  of  timber,  barkless  and  white  with  age.  It  never  grew  there. 
It  is  a  thousand  feet  from  the  top  of  the  vertical  bluffs,  and  could  not 
have  been  put  there  from  above.  Tha  only  way  in  whi(!h  it  could  have 
reached  its  present  position  was  by  being  caught  there  when  the  river 
was  a  thousand  feet  higher  than  it  is  now,  drifting  in  and  lodging,  and 
being  left  there  by  the  receding  river. 

My  pilot.  "Old  Pierre,"  an  Indian  pilot  and  royageur  of  the  old  Hud- 
son Bay  Company,  said  that  this  log  was  a  landmark  in  the  days  when 
this  company  transported  their  furs  and  inerc.i.andise  up  aiid  down  the 
river  in  bateaux.  He  says  that  the  Indians  always  considered  that  the 
log  was  left  there  when  the  river  was  up  at  that  height.  This  is  one 
link  in  the  chain  of  evidence  that  proves  tliiit  at  no  distant  dat«  the 
Columbia  was  a  stream  of  such  magnificent  proportions  that  the  present 
river  is  a  tiny  rivulet  compared  with  it.  If  this  bo  the  true  explanation 
of  the  location  of  this  log,  it  is  a  remarkable  example  of  the  preserva- 
tion of  wood  for  a  long  ^teriod  of  time.  It  may  be  that  the  log  is  pet- 
rified, but  I  had  no  means  of  getting  at  it  to  determine. 

There  are  many  other  things  which  may  be  cited  in  jjroof  that  thia 
river  has  but  lately  Iwcome  re<lnced  to  its  jiresent  size.  All  alimg  up 
the  river,  whei-ever  there  is  a  concave  iwrtion  of  the  blulf's,  there  we  find 
terraces  of  from  teu  to  five  hundred  feet  in  elevation  above  tlufir  neigh- 


f 


'4 
'I 


4» 


COLUMIUA    RIVER. 


hor  toiTaccR  luilow.  TIichc  aro  all  comitoHcd  of  rather  looso  soil,  bowl- 
(lornaiiil  f,'rav()l,  and  river  sodinioiit,  ami  have  well  (IoHiuhI  and  nliarp 
cdfjAH.  Tliew)  i»rove  incontOHtibly  the  former  grandenr  of  the  river, 
and  exist  to  a  height  of  2,()(M(  feet  or  more  above  the  present  river,  an«l 
their  Hlmrp  and  welldeilned  e<lge8  woidd  Heem  to  prove  their  newne8n 
in  the  scale  of  time. 

The  |»ietnr((-writin(jH  at  the  upper  end  of  Lake  Olielan  were  in  all 
prooability  made  when  Oiis  lak(^  was  a  K't'at  arm  of  the  (jreatc^r  i»rc- 
hiHinri<!  (Joluinbia,  and  both  were  hnndredn  of  feet  above  their  pnwent 
level. 

A  ftnv  TnileN  below  Victoria  Rock  we  came  to  tlio  ntonth  of  the  two 
eindecH,  whic.li  ar(»  i)reHnmably  those  of  Mohch  Ooid^se  and  the  eonleo 
breaking  in  from  the  Honth  of  itad^er  Mountain,  and  which  is  commoidy 
>V5copted  an  the  continniilion  of  the  Orand  Ooult^e. 

In  three  or  four  miles  further  we  come  to  Gnalquil  llai>id8,  whi«!h  are 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length  and  form  no  obstruction,  and  then 
we  had  seven  or  eight  miles  of  the  most  perfect  river,  and  we  went 
snuMttbly  gliding  along,  with  no  sound  but  tlie  monotonous  rhythm  of  the 
oiirs  to  break  the  stillness.  The  bluffs  have  been  getting  h)wer  and 
lower  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  the  strata  seem  to  slope  down  from 
the  north,  indicating  an  upheaval  lo  the  north  or  a  subsidence  to  the 
south. 

The  t«rrace  fornuition  so  prevalent  further  north,  hero  has  almost 
entiiely  disappeared. 

After  jjussiug  a  small  stream  coming  in  from  the  right  about  two  miles, 
we  come  to  Island  lvapi<ls.  A  bar  island  obstructs  the  free  flow  of  the 
wattjr,  and  a  little  rajtid  is  formed  wliich  is  not  at  all  bad. 

Ab(Mit  two  miles  below  these  rai)ids  the  cimntry  opens  out  on  the  west 
into  a  broad  flat,  with  rolling  hills  to  the  rear,  while  the  bbUfs  on  the 
left  bank  keej)  getting  lower  aiul  lower.  Down  <»vor  a  good  river  wo 
move  along,  and  soon  conus  to  the  (Jrab  Creek  Coulee,  running  along  the 
northiirn  side  of  8a<ldle  Mouiittvin.  Crab  Creek  discharges  no  water 
into  the  Colnmbiii — at  tliis  season  of  the  year,  at  any  rate. 

Just  below  Crab  Creek  Coulee  the  high  steep  bluffs  come  down  close 
t«  the  river  on  both  sides.  On  the  left  bank  tlio  bluff  is  the  end  of 
Saddle  Mountain,  ou  the  right  bank  it  is  the  commencement  of  a  ridge 
extending  off  to  the  west. 

To  the  south  of  these  IScntinel  Bluffs  tlie  country  becomes  flat,  sandy, 
and  uninteresting,  elevated  but  a  little  above  the  river. 

Saddle  Mountain  is  a  range  of  gra^scoverod  hills,  extending  nearly 
due  east,  and  terminating  in  the  desert  plains  a  few  miles  to  the  north- 
east of  White  IJluffs.  Between  it  and  the  curve  of  the  Columbia  which 
swings  around  by  Priest  l{api<ls  and  White  Bluffs  the  country  is  largely 
composed  of  sandy,  gravelly,  worthless  soil.  Some  grass  exists  and 
some  large  areas  of  sagebrush,  but  what  soil  there  is  seems  to  l)«  more 
alkaline  and  pow«leiy  than  in  other  sections  of  the  (3oluinbia  basin. 


1 


COLUMUIA    KIVEK. 


4T 


Oil  tliu  rifjlit  btiiik,  Intlow  tlio  Sciitinol  lUiifts,  tliu  oliltk  recede  iviul  ii 
plaU-iui  liivs  uluiif;  tlio  riv<>r,  wliicli  sotMiis  to  be  of  p»M)r  (|iiiility  ami  not 
well  fitted  for  itny  piu'iKiM^  of  ii^rienltnn>.  Tlu*  liills  hack  from  the 
river  appear  more  fertile,  Inniig  e,ovore<l  with  fjnisH  and  uppeariiiff  to 
liavo  Hprin^H  scattered  aloiip  their  brown  sides. 

For  alxtut  five  or  six  miles  the  river  in  this  portion  of  its  courHC  is  very 
HlnK!u;isIi,  wide,  and  deep,  and  on  the  iHMititifnl  day  during  wliieh  wo 
passed  over  it,  it  seemed  to  be  more  like  a  lake  than  a  river.  This  dead 
water  is  evidently  canse<l  by  the  damming  up  by  the  obsf  ructions  below 
at  Priest  Kapids.  The  Jirst  ripple  of  the  system  of  I'riest  l{ai)ids  is  a 
sliglit  one  as  far  as  the  swiftness  is  concerned;  the  water,  howev«<r,  is 
shallow,  flowing  over  imuienso  bowlders  and  Jagged  rcMiks,  which  were 
plainly  visible  from  the  boat  and  at  a  variety  of  depths  below  the  sur- 
face.  Near  the  left  bank  nniny  of  these  rocks  come  above  the  water, 
and  the  whirls  told  ]>lainly  that  many  others  were  just  below  the  sur- 
face. Our  course  lay  about  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  the  souruling- 
l»ole  wouUl  indicate  one  instant  perhaps  a  depth  of  three  or  four  feet, 
the  next  tt^n  or  twelve,  and  the  next  five  or  six.  Through  this  portion 
of  the  river  a  steamer  could  go  now  in  safety  after  finding  and  knowing 
thoroughly  a  goo<l  channel. 

The  second  rapid  is  about  as  bad  a  place  as  there  is  on  the  whole 
river.  All  about,  the  bed-rock  points  and  islands  rise  uj*  in  ugly,  black, 
jaggetl  masses,  threatening  destruction  to  anything  that  touches  them. 
The  bottom,  as  in  the  first  ripple,  is  comiwsed  of  huge  bowlders  and 
rocks,  and  the  water  flows  swiftly  over  this  dangerous  bottom  and  tlu^se 
outcropping  rocks  with  a  depth  of  only  three  to  four  feet.  The  fall  here 
is  considerable;  we  jiassed  over  one  fall  of  at  least  three  feet. 

A  steamer  could  not  ascend  this  rapid  without  the  nse  of  a  line,  and 
oven  then  the  greatest  care  wouhl  bo  necessary.  A  smooth  strcfirh  of 
<pii((t  water  then  followed,  and  we  came  to  the  third  rapid,  which  was 
swift  and  shallow,  with  considerable  bed-rock  jutting  uj)  near  both 
shores.  The  bed  of  the  river  at  this  rapid  is  the  same  as  it  has  been  all 
along,  composed  of  large  Imwlders. 

For  about  five  and  a  half  miles  now  the  river  is  (juiet  ami  slow,  with 
rocks  scattered  about  here  and  there,  generally  in  clusters.  Tlie  wat<u' 
is  so  shallow  that  we  are  able  to  sec  bottom  for  a  great  jmrt  of  the  way, 
and  is  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet  in  depth.  The  fourth  rapid  is  in  this 
stretch  of  water,  but  is  very  mild  in  character  and  presents  no  obstruc- 
tion. 

We  now  come  to  a  very  bad  i)ortion  of  the  river,  consisting  of  the 
three  lowtsr  rapids  of  Priest  liapids.  Wo  are  able  to  tell  from  the  pnipa- 
rations  nmde  by  old  Pierre  and  his  crew  that  .something  bad  is  coming, 
iw  well  as  by  the  roar  that  reaches  our  ears,  and  the  black,  rugged  rocks 
that  seem  to  extend  nearly  the  entire  way  across  the  river. 

We  reach  a  point  where  a  black-rock  island  lies  towivid  the  left  bank, 
and  a  long,  irregular  ma^s  stretches  along  near  the  right  bank.    This 


'i 


48 


(COLUMBIA   RIVKR. 


lioH  iilonff  th«i  fifth  rapid,  iu  which  tho  water  is  very  tnrbnlent,  boiling 
uihI  ruiiriiit;  a  grwit  dcivi.  TIuh  hniliiig  and  foiiiiiiiig  ii«  not,  liowvvur, 
iiecoHHiirily  ntUMidc;'  witii  groat  swiftnesH  of  currunt,  for  in  tliiH  ripplo 
wu  (lid  not  niovu  .w  ftiNt  i\^  in  m>inu  otiivrs  wliich  ap|>viire<l  niucli  more 
i|iiic<t.  In  tact,  tliti  tuinltling  ovur  tlie  nneven  lN)ttoni  whicii  canwH  tliu 
ugitatiod  tuiuiN  to  ciioclt  the  veloiuty  tionsidentljly. 

Tliu  long,  irrugular  iniuis  noar  tho  right  bunk  which  lies  along  tho  liftli 
rapid  contiiuioH  on  down  tho  rivor  for  about  two  an«l  u  half  niiiiv<,  with 
only  an  occuHionid  break. 

A  littlo  bulow  the  tiftli  ra|)id  wo  come  to  whore  tho  main  channel  iu 
divided  into  two  by  another  long,  irregular,  jagg<!il  niOKM  of  the  Maniu 
black  basaltic  rock,  thrown  along  almost  in  the  center  of  the  river.  We 
cliooMo  tho  right-hand  channel  of  the  two,  and,  after  Mwiftly  piutHing  a 
few  ugly  looking  projecting  pointH,  we  find  ourselves  in  the  iiixth  rapid, 
shooting  with  the  speed  of  a  r'><;e  horse  down  through  the  caual-like  chan- 
lutl  between  these  two  long  rock  islands.  For  about  u  mile  we  tore 
along  with  the  united  speed  of  tho  raging  torrent  and  our  yelling  Indian 
oarsmen.  This  channel  seem  d  to  have  plenty  of  water,  but  is  quite 
narrow,  being  altont  sixty  to  o.ghty  feet  wide.  We  went  through  it  at 
the  rate  of  about  twenty  miles  m\  hour. 

The  left-hand  channel  is  thf/  one  better  suited  to  pur|M)8es  of  naviga- 
tion, I  believe.  I  did  not  examine  it,  but  it  hits  been  examined  by  (Jap- 
tain  (iore,  of  the  Oregon  .'tailway  and  Navigation  Company,  who  in- 
formed me  that  he  took  a  stoi  mer  up  through  it  and  brought  it  bock. 
The  little  steamer  Chelan  w<i8  taken  down  through  this  channel  iu 
safety. 

This  leit-hand  chunnol  is  crookoder  aud  the  water  is  not  so  swift  its  iu 
tho  straightaway  one  through  which  we  came. 

Enierging  from  the  canal-like  sixth  rapid,  old  Pierre  throws  the  boat 
to  tho  left  to  avoid  some  biul-looking  water  dead  ahe^ul,  and,  after  a 
little  further  tumbling  and  rolling  about  in  the  tepenth  rapid,  we  emerge 
with  a  sliout  of  Joy  from  tlie  eleven  miles  of  Priest  liapids.  We  all  know 
now  that  our  dangers  are  passed,  and  thank  Gotl  for  allowing  us  to 
safely  come  through  all  the  rapids. 

We  soon  make  for  shore,  and  ('amp  on  the  right  bank,  having  made 
during  the  day  about  fifty-eight  miles. 

At  this  point  on  the  Columbia,  at  the  lower  end  of  Priest  Rapids, 
nuist  surely  be  located  a  town  of  consideral)lo  imixirtance,  as  it  will  for 
a  long  time  be  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  river.  It  is  the  most  con- 
venient place  from  wliich  to  reach  the  Yakima  and  Kittitas  valleys, 
which  now  communicate  with  the  'nwer  country  by  a  wagon-roiid  over 
the  Simcoe  Mountains  to  the  Dalles.  The  ra[)ids  will  furuisu  a  splendid 
water  power,  and  in  all  probability  here  will  l>e  lociited  flour  and  saw 
mills,  as  well  as  warehouses  and  stores.  Logs  can  be  brought  down  the 
Columbia  to  be  here  sawed  into  lumber  and  distributed  to  the  sur- 
i-ouudiug  agricultural  regions.    The  rapids  are  centrally  located  for 


COLUMBIA   RTVKB. 


many  fine  valleys  and  much  proniisinfr  conntrj*,  and  arc  canily  rem'hiHl 
by  waKonroadH  from  many  directionn. 

AInnf;  tlie  Iowct  ]tortion  of  tho  river  travenwMl  tliiH  day  the  riw^  and 
fall  of  tli«  vaUir  in  much  lew*  than  alonf;  any  other  portion  of  tho  river, 
jud(iriri^  by  the  line  of  dritt-wmtd  along  the  Imnkn  ami  the  nniitll  eleva- 
tion of  tho  plainH  above  the  river. 

On  Siitunlay,  Oetobor  8,  we  left  our  camp  l>elow  Priest  UapidH  and 
pnlled  down  the  river.  Very  few  obje(;t«  of  interest  were  to  Ih»  neen. 
Tho  conntry  on  eaoh  Ride  is  low,  Hat,  and  the  soil  a|)|>oarH  Handy  an<l 
Hnpro<Iii(!tive.  To  the  nontli  the  Hat  land  extends  away  to  the  Yakima 
Uiver.  Our  course  during  the  foiTutMHi  lay  nearly  due  east,  and  where 
the  river  again  makes  a  great  bend  to  the  Honth  we  come  to  the  well- 
known  White  Iiluff».  The  river  makes  a  semicircular  Hweei>  to  tho 
north  and  cuts  into  the  bluffs,  leaving  a  very  nearly  vertical  wall  of 
from  one  hundred  to  six  hundi'ed  feet  in  height.  The  rock  is  si  sundy 
marl,  soft  and  friable,  whi<!h  easily  itowders  where  the  cattle  have  trav- 
eled over  it  in  going  up  and  down  hill  for  foiMl  and  water.  We  con- 
tinue along  under  these  bluffs  for  ten  miles  or  more.  There  are  a  great 
many  birds'  nests,  maile  i  if  clay,  attached  to  tho  bluffs,  but  the  binls 
whc»He  houses  they  were  I  id  all  fleil. 

Nnmlters  of  cattle  and  some  horses  were  seen  which  graze  on  the  pla- 
teaus along  the  river,  to  which  they  come  down  for  water.  We  |m.Hse«l 
during  the  day  several  camps  of  In<lians  engageil  in  salmon  Hshing;  in 
one  cam])  were  nineteen  lodges.  A  little  after  eleven  oV-lo4;k  we  passed 
the  ohl  military  depot  camp  at  White  Bluffs,  where  the  storehouses  still 
stand. 

During  tho  day  we  ma<le  about  fifty-seven  miles.  The  river  is  all  the 
way  an  almost  perfect  river  for  steamboating,  the  drawback  l)eing  the 
bars  and  shifting  (channel  along  by  White  Bluffs  ;  but  over  these  bnrs 
there  seems  to  be  a  sufflcicncy  of  water  for  all  ])nri)ose8.  We  ]>asse(l  a 
great  many  bar  islands,  and  encam|>ed  about  six  miles  almve  the  month 
of  the  Yakima. 

The  next  day,  Sunday,  Octf)ber  9,  we  left  camp  bright  and  early,  and 
by  ten  o'clock  reached  tho  mouth  of  Snake  Ri\er.  The  country  along 
the  river,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  area  near  the  month  of  the 
Yakima,  is  very  i>oor;  in  fact,  must  be  considered  a  desert.  Ba<!k  from 
the  river,  especially  to  the  east,  the  soil  is  good,  though  light,  and  tlu- 
ouly  drawback  to  its  successful  cultivation  is  the  lack  of  rains  in  the 
summer  and  the  fiicility  with  which  it  becomes  dry  und  jwwdery. 

At  a  distsvnr^  of  nine  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Snake  Ki  ver  the  \'a- 
kima  comes  into  the  Columbia  from  the  west.  It  rises  in  several  large 
and  beautiful  lakes  in  the  Cascade  Mountains,  in  about  latitude  47°  .'SO', 
and,  taking  a  general  course  to  the  southeast,  runs  for  one  liundrtMl  and 
sixty  miles  to  its  confluence  with  the  Columbia.  For  twenty  five  miles 
down  tho  stream  its  valley  is  only  from  half  a  mile  U*  a  mile  wide;  It 
then  widens  out  into  Kittitas  Valley,  which  is  ten  to  fifteen  miles  wide, 
S.  Ex.  180 7 


•i 

■  i'jt: 
3  r-' 

m 


m 


COLUMBIA   KIVKrw. 


li- 


the river  tbere  being  ulnety  feet  wide  and  alK)ut  three  feet  deep,  and 
very  rapid. 

Below  tills  valley  the  ri'^rr  curves  gradually  to  the  south  until  it  re- 
ceives the  wa ters  of  the  1  isko,  then  it  turns  again  to  the  eastwartl, 
in  ivhich  course  it  continues  t^  its  mouth.  Between  the  Kittitas  and 
Italmam  the  hills  again  encroiuih  on  the  valley,  but  below  that  it  widens 
out  again  to  from  six  to  ten  miles,  with  numerous  branchings  among 
the  hills.  (3n  the  west  side,  opposite  Kittitas  piain,  these  small  streams 
rise  among  the  hills  separating  the  main  Yakima  from  Ls  principal 
brancji,  the  Niichess.  These  strei'.ms  are  from  fifteen  to  twenty  miles 
long  and  run  through  small  and  fertile  valleys.  The  Naclrss  rises  in 
the  vicijiity  of  the  Nachess  Pass,  and  running  nearly  parallel  with  the 
Yakima  at  a  distance  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  joins  it  after  flowing 
about  fifty  miles.  It  has  a  vaKoy  fro-u  lialf  a  nnle  to  four  p-iles  in  width. 
The  Atohnain  r.fies  about  thirty  miles  south  of  it  and  runs  in  a  more 
easterly  course,  emi)tying  into  the  Yakima  about  ten  mikM  below;  its 
valley  is  smaller  than  that  ot  the  Nachess,  but  fertile.  The  Pisko  re- 
sembles the  Atahnam.  The  Yakima  is  not  navigable  for  boats  of  any 
kind. 

About  its  headwaters  there  is  much  good  '.imbcr,  and  it  furnishes  a 
natural  waterway  to  get  it  out  to  the  Oolumbia.  Thie  is,  ho\yever,  at- 
tended with  grttit  dilflculty,  owi'ig  to  the  f^t  thai:  the  river  in  the 
lower  jtiirts  of  its  course  spreads  out  and  becomes  very  shallow.  It  is 
only  wlien  at  its  ^ery  hif^tiastthat  there  is  sutttcieut  water  to  float  logs, 
and  Ibis  high  water  only  lasts  a  few  days.  If  advantage  in  taken  of  it, 
log.s  can  bo  brougat  down  *,  if  not,  tb"y  will  lodge  and  retnain  fast  on 
the  liver  l)ars.  This  lias  proved  a  great  source  of  delay,  los3,  and  inciou- 
venience  to  those  engaged  in  getting  out  timber  for  the  Novthern  I'a- 
(jifle  B.iilroad. 

The  town  of  Ainsworth  is  situated  on  the  right  baI^k  of  the  Snake 
Itiver,  about  a  halfniiie  above  its  iiioutli. 

It  is  at  this  point  that  the  Northern  Pacific  Railrr.ul  crosses  the 
iSuake,  and  here  are  t'ae  company  offices  of  I'lo  railroad  division,  built 
ii»  Mk!  n\id8t  of  a  bl  <ik,  dreary  waste,  in  wii  i  for  inany  miles  around 
sage-brush  and  siuid  piedominate,  A.^iswortb.  is  one  of  the  most  uncom- 
fortable, abominable  places  in  AuieriL  t  to  live  in.  You  sor^n  the  horizon 
iu  vain  for  a  tiee  or  anytbint*  reaend)iing  oi\e.  The  heat  through  the 
suim.icr  i«  excessive^,  and  tiigh  winds  prevail  and  blow  the  sands  about 
and  into  ever^  iJiing.  By  tlie  glare  of  tlic  sun  and  tiie  flying  sands  one's 
eyes  are  in  a  con-Jjui^.!  stat«  of  winking,  blinking,  and  torment,  if  noth- 
ing more  serious  results.  Captaint?  Lewis  and  Clarke  found  the  Indians 
of  this  country  ver^  much  afflict  1  with  sore  eyes,  which  they  ascrilw 
to  t  le  glare  oi  tlie  sun  on  the  ilesert  and  rivers  and  the  prevailing  aand- 
beanng  winds.  It  is  interes'.ing  to  know  that  they  took  advantage  of 
the  fact  and  procured  plenty  of  horses  and  provisions  from  the  Indians 
in  exchange  for  the  sunvjcal  operations  which  ii.oy  perforuie<l  and  the 


^sfi  'rwp*  ■ 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


61 


medicines  which  they  gave  tlio  Indiana,  OHpecially  the  mnchdcsired 
and  needed  eyewater,  from  which  their  patients  found  groat  relief. 
Their  journal  says : 

Wo  wore  by  no  raeanH  diHsatisftoii  nt,  this  new  rcsoiirno  for  ohtiiiiiiiiK  »riiHi»Uinco,  as 
t,ho  lu'liaim  would  givuim  no  proviaiona  without  merchandisn,  and  <>'!!•  -fock  waw  now 
\'ory  much  roduccd.  Wu cantiouKly  abHtaintMl  from  giving  any  hntnannlcHHnirdicinoH, 
and  iiM  wc  could  not  possibly  do  harm,  our  proscriptioua,  though  uuHiinctioni'd  by  tlio 
faculty,  might  bo  nscful,  and  wcro  thonifore  entitled  to  hoiuc  romnnoration. 

It  was  only  by  utilizing  this  source  of  revenue,  after  their  at(K',k  in 
trade  n'as  exhausted,  that  the  distinguished  explorers  were  enabled  to 
make  their  way  back  to  the  regions  of  civilization. 

The  railroad  terminus  ii«ross  the  river  from  Ainsworth  was  named, 
and  for  some  time  bore,  the  appropriate  name  of  Hades,  but  some  of  the 
higher  authorities  condemned  the  name,  and  substituted  therefor  South 
Ainsworth. 

V^e  drew  our  boat  upon  the  bank,  put  the  oars  in  her,  and  abandoned 
her.  The  Indians  were  very  much  interested  iu  everything  about  the 
phice,  and  I  explained  things  to  them  as  well  as  I  could.  I  paid  them 
off,  gave  them  tickets  back  to  Oolville,  and  ea<'h  a  letter  of  recsoiinuenda- 
tion,  and  Mr.  Downing  and  I  gave  them  all  our  extra  clothing,  and  they 
seemetl  supremely  happy.  Old  Pierre  made  sundry  visils  to  a  whisky 
saloou,  but  promised  not  to  get  drunk  until  ho  returned  to  Colvillo 
Avhere  he  saul  he  would  have  two  good  drunks  and  then  stop.  The 
other  Indians  did  not  seem  to  have  any  inclination  to  drink.  I  cannot 
praise  them  too  highly  for  their  skill,  their  uniform  goodnature,  hon- 
esty, eiulurance,  and  sobriety.  I  think  it  would  be  very  dillieult  to  pick 
up  at  a  few  hours'  notice  four  white  men  who  would  row  a  heavy  l)oat 
through  dangerous  rapids  for  four  hundred  miles  without  wanting  strong 
drink,  or  be  able  to  witlmtaud,  after  being  paid  oft',  the  temptations  of 
drinking-saloons. 

Thus  our  jouniey  down  the  river  ended.  We  left  the  Ii'diaiis  to  pur- 
sue next  day  their  way  back  to  Oolville,  and  that  night  .Mr.  Downing 
and  I  took  the  cars  and  safely  tirrived  at  Vantsouver  the  next  day. 


CIIArTEIl   V. 


TABLE  OF  DISTAUfCES  ON  THE  COLVMIilA  HllEB. 

In  computing  the  following  trtble  of  distances  I  have  made  use  of  the 
<list«nce  tables  of  the  Oix(gou  Railway  and  Navigation  ('ompaiiy  in  de- 
termining the  distances  from  lite  month  of  the  (lohnnbia  to  Hiiake  Itlver; 
from  this  point  the  distances  are  those  <leterniined  on  my  recent  survey 
of  the  river  and  platted  on  the  acc(»mpanying  maps. 

I  have  only  given  the  important  points  up  as  far  its  Snake  River. 

The  llrst  column  of  figures  gives  the  distamies  between  the  eonst^eu- 
tive  points  named;  the  8econ<'  column  gives  the  total  distatice  of  the 


IP  COLUMBIA   HIVEE. 

poiiif;  name«l  from  the  mouth  of  tho  Columbia  River ;  the  third  column 
gives  tho  total  distance  of  the  point  named  i'rom  the  Boundary  line ;  and 
the  fourth  column  of  flgures  gives  the  total  distance  of  the  point  named 
from  tlio  Hioutli  of  the  Snake  Itiver,  both  down  and  up  the  Columbia. 

It  will  bo  seen  by  comparing  my  distances  with  those  of  Captain  Ping- 
stone,  whose  report  on  the  river  is  partially  given  herewith,  that  they 
do  not  agree,  his  distances  being  generally  much  greater  than  those 
given  in  my  table.  The  distances  here  given  were  taken  with  tho 
grcfatest  care  from  point  to  point,  and  tho  whole  wa«  platted  and  fitted 
very  closely  l)ctween  the  known  iwsitions  of  the  boundary  and  the 
month  of  the  Snake; 


'■(;i-' '     i  Jf, 


■N-'- 


'".IVEB. 


Moutli  OoiAiMl).. 

AsroiUA • 

Kitlaroa 

Mnutli  V.'llliinwtto 

Vnucoii  VBV 

Lower  CiiHOiwliai 

Upptr  CiwclMlea 

lloinl  Hlvor 

TiiK  Dai.kb  (city)  

Celllo,  at  liciid  of  Dalles 

UMA1I1.I.A 

Wttlliila 

atlAKB  RlVKB  (AlKgVOiml)  . 


Mouth  Yakima  Klvor  . .. 

l^iKit  of  Long  Island 

Hi<n<l  of  iHinK  Inland 

Old  WhiUi  lllnffB  Uopot 


Endof  WlilU^l)liitr«.... 
Ferry  acrowi  Columbia  . 


Bbikst  lUi'ins; 

Si'veutli  Kapid 

HwmI  Slith  Kapiil 

I'iftli  Kjipid 

Fourth  Kapid 

Third  topld 

SiTOud  Kapid 

First  Kapid 

Soutimd  ISlutl's 

Mouth  Oral)  Creek  Coulee  . 

lt«r  Isliuul,  upper 

Inlniid  Ka,ildH 

(Inahpiil  Uapids 

Loduestiek  muff 


.5 
l.S 
1 

4 
1 


H 

si 
5^ 


2.6 

1.8 

4.5 

1 

6.6 

4 

10 

4.5 

!  Ir 
'  I 


10 
78 
108 
114 
150 
105 
183 
200 
220 
302 
825 


372 
382 

387 
409 

400.5 

411 

412 

416 

417 

410.  6 

421 

426.5 

426.5 

433 

437 

447 

45).  5 


752 
742 
674 
044 
038 


540 
632 
450 
427 
416 

407 
384 
380 
370 

343 

342.6 

341 

340 

336 

335 

332.6 

331 

320.5 

325.5 

310 

315 

305 

300.6 


336 

320 

258 

228 

222 

177 

171 

153 

130 

110 

34 

11 

0 

0 
32 
86 
46 

61 
73 


73.5 

75 

76 

80 

81 

83.6 

85 

80.6 

00.5 

07 
101 
111 
115.0 


Itemarki. 


Northftm  Pacific  Bailixiad  cross- 
ing. 


Koad  from  bora  to  old  Camp 
Cholnn  and  to  Spokane  Falls. 

Ruad  fnuu  here  to  Kittitas  Ynl 
toy  and  to  ITaktma. 


Called  also  Eoglo  Rapids. 


COLUMBIA    KIVEB. 


r)3 


Month  Grand  Con16e 
Montli  Mo»oHConU)0 
Victoria  Itook 
Cabinrt  lUriiiB, 
RapW 


Rock  Tslamd  Raimds 


Foot 

Homl 

Bishop's  Itoclt 

Com.  of  ll4H;k  Islnndx  and  Rapids  . . . 
Road  to  Kittitas  loiivos  river 
Jiapid  liolow  Wcnatohoe  Hats 
Wouatfllioe  River 


ReniarliH. 


( Cfti'.id  also  "  Os(''  do  Plcrro  Rap. 
Ida," 
Isli.    do    I'iono     Ifupiils    and 
Biicliland'H  Rapiils. 


Roclcy  Bar , 

Longviow  Point 

llapid  holow  Knti-Bt-qua  Bar 

Kntl-at-qua  Rivor 

Ribbon  Bliitf 

Bur  and  Rapid 

livpid , 

Udwniug's  Rapid 

Ciiplan  River 

Cliilan  Crossing,  Indian  villago 


Ba.1  liar  and  sraviil  flats  Jnst  lio- 
low moiitli,  Miller's  Storo  and 
Raueli. 


Rapid 

Rapid 

Lower  end  Methow  Rapids 
Metliow  Rivor 

Bar 

Okikakanr  Bivkk 
Foster  Creek 

FOHTKIt  CUEKK  RaPIDS 

Rapids 

Rapid 

End  Short  Ilapids 
Comra^coment  Short  Rapids 
Bnd  of  Long  Rapids 
Kalichbx  Fall*  amu  Wiijuu-ooi, 

Rai'ids 
Commencement  Long  Rapids 

Rapid 

Rapid , 

Rapid 

Rapid 

Rapid 

UAII'KIN  Rai'iiis 


OIiI  crossing  for  Camp  <;hc>lan, 
Indian  Kciit;  . 


Called  also  Ross  Rapids. 


Rapids  li  nilira  long. 


234. 5    I  Rapids  4  niili's  long 

235.5 

23&6 

■240 

241 

242 

244.  £ 

240      I  Cnlli  il  .ilso  Cannon  Rapids 


hH 


54 


COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


':i^'~- 


Koapllom  KtTcr 

Ei|iiilil>riiini  Rapliln 

MonnKliAU  H  ItupidH 

Btrniig  IlApid 

Kiipiil 

Granil  Ooulfto 

NenlikwaCrucV  ...  

Hunimotli  Spring 

Bniis  roil  Riror 

nm.i.  Oatk 

Frirdiniidor'H  Storo 

Wiiitcatimo  and  WlilUwtono  Creek  . . 

CnstliiCovo 

WolHliCnmk 

TIawk  Clrwk;  " Virginia Blll'«" 

Cliiiin  Cftinp  on  Islnnd 

Btokakr  RlVRIl 

SJ'OKANK  ?U1'I1)8 

Mitrol{o<!k 

CftmpCrcdk 

Door  Oruok 

Bapld 

Ik-ko-luxtum  Creek 

Elbow  Bond,  Ulock  Inlnnd  Rapid*  . . . 

Knpid 

Rogi^re  Bar 

Rapid 

Neal  mn-oliin  Crnok 

Bnpids,  big  Jutting  rock  (loft  bank).. 

Turtle  Knpids 

En-ol-POHt-em  Cn»ek 

Enohalayrm  Crcnk 

Rock  Island  nnd  Bar  near  (right  b'k)  . 

Cliarloy  Fiwicais  Bar 

Bans  I'oil  Indian  Stittlenicnt  and  Bar  . 

Enquashaycm  Creek 

Tcbka-ka- wick's  liouao 

Driftwood  Rock  Island 

KirKKV'B  Lanmxo 

GllASI)  RAflllB 

Mouth  Colville  River 

KKTTI.K  Falls 

Kettle  River 

Old  Fort  ColvlUe 

SiiMilollar 

Twelve-Mile  Bar 

Little  Dalles 

BOL-Nt>ART  URK 


t 


3 

2.5 

4.S 

3 

2 

7 

7 

2.6 

4 

2 

2 

S 

4.5 

1.5 

ZS 

2..') 

0.5 

t 

4 

1 

1 

3 

2 

2 

2.5 

1 

2 

3.5 

3 

7 

1 

1.5 

2 

9 

3 

4.5 

2.6 

3 

2.5 

3 

4 

2 

1 

6 

8 
11 
16 


6W 
533 
605.5 
600 

603 

606 

612 

610 

621.5 

626.5 

627.5 

629.5 

634.5 

639 

640.6 

643 

645.5 

646 

650 

6M 

655 

656 

650 

661 

663 

66.15 

606l6 

608.5 

672 

675 

682 

683 

684.5 

686.S 

il88.5 

691.5 

tl06 

608.5 

701.5 

704 

707 

711 

713 

714 

720 

726 

737 

76S 


I 


162 

150 

196.6 

152 

140 

147 

140 

133 

130.5 

12a  5 

124.5 

:?2.6 

117.5 

113 

111.6 

109 

10&6 

100 

102 

98 

07 

06 

93 

91 

80 

86.5 

85.5 

83.5 

80 

77 

70 

60 

67.5 

65.5 

63.6 

60.5 

06 

53.6 

50.5 

48 

45 

41 

39 


15 
0 


I- 

ii 

5 


254 

2.^7 

250.5 

264 

267 

200 

276 

283 

285.5 

280.5 

201. 5 

203.5 

298.5 

303 

304.5 

307 

300.5 

310 

314 

318 

310 

320 

323 

325 

327 

320.5 

330.5 

332.5 

330 

330 

346 

347 

348.5 

350.5 

352.5 

355.5 

360 

362.5 

365.  S 

368 

371 

375 

877 

378 

384 

390 

401 

416 


Remarks. 


Road  to  the  South. 


Excellent  road  to  the  soiitb. 


Rapid. 


COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


55 


To  this  I  odd  the  foUowiiig  distances  derived  from  the  woiks  of  Alex- 
ander Boss  and  others : 


BOURIIAItT  lilRB 

Pond  d'Onillle  Ulvcr 

Koot«iiay  River 

Lower  Arrow  Laku 

Do 

Upper  Arrow  liUko 

Do 

Littlo  Narrowa  or  Dalloa. 

City  of  Rocka 

Dalk'a  ilea  UorU 

Boat  Encampraont 


i 


I 


Ikt^nmrka. 


Hoiitli  fiid, 
Norllii'iiil. 
Hoiitli  Olid. 
North  <4iid. 


Ciiiioo  ICivur  iiud  Puit- 
agt)  Uivor. 


CHAPTER  VI.  .,«     i 

NA  FIG  A  TION  OF  THE  COL  VMIilA  RI  FEB.  ' '  '    ' 

From  its  month  to  the  month  of  the  \  illanietto,  the  Coltimbia  iN  nav- 
igated by  ocoan  steamers,  sea-going  ships,  and  river  craft  of  all  kinds. 

From  the  Willamette  up  to  the  Cascades,  river  boats  find  abinulant 
water  and  go  freely  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  except  when  the  river 
freezes  up,  which  happens  generally  eaeh  winter.  The  freeze-ui)8  on 
this  portion  of  the  river  last  but  a  short  time,  however. 

At  the  Casciules  the  obstruction  to  navigation  is  complete,  lioats 
cannot  ascend  the  rapids  at  all,  and  they  cannot  descend  with  any  de- 
gree of  safety.  Here,  in  order  to  render  the  river  navigable,  means 
must  bo  adopted  to  pass  boats  both  up  and  down  over  the  ra])i(l8.  A 
canal  with  locks  has  been  adopted  as  the  means  to  do  this,  and  work 
ha«  progressed  on  it  for  several  years.  When  this  is  completed  naviga- 
tion will  be  continuous  up  to  the  Dalles.  This  will  throw  the  river 
open  to  all  who  wish  to  navigate  it,  and  a  healthy  competition  will  be  the 
result  for  all  the  trade  centering  on  the  river  at  and  below  the  Dalles. 

The  Dalles  is  another  complete  and  total  obstruction  to  navigation. 
Boats  can  neither  go  up  nor  down  them,  and  in  consequence  means 
must  also  be  adopted  here  to  pass  them  both  up  and  down,  if  complete 
river  navigation  is  propt)8ed.  Surveys  have  been  made  and  ])lans  and 
estimates  are  now  being  prepared  for  the  desired  improvement  here. 

With  these  two  serious  obstacles  removed,  there  would  be  tjontinuons 
navigation  to  Priest  Rapids,  a  distance  of  409  miles  from  the  sea,  and 
by  the  Snake  River  to  the  Grande  Ronde  River,  .'50  miles  above  Lewis- 
ton,  a  distance  of  51G  miles  from  the  sea,  making  a  total  of  navigable 


•^ 


56 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


water  of  589  miles.  To  this  mnst  be  added  the  navigable  waters  of  the 
Olcarwater,  the  extent  of  which  I  do  not  know. 

Tliis  would  throw  open  to  competition  the  river  transportation  de- 
manded by  tlic  great  grain  belt  between  the  Cascades  and  the  Hitter 
Root  Mountains,  south  of  tlio  forty-seventh  parallel. 

By  no  other  means  could  the  government  confer  a  more  decided  and 
lasting  benefit  upon  the  people  ot  this  great  section  than  by  removing 
the  obstructions  to  navigation  at  the  Cascades  and  Dalles. 

The  portions  of  the  river  at  present  regularly  navigate<l  by  river 
steamers  are  those  below  the  Cascades  to  the  month  of  the  river;  be- 
tween theCascad'^s  and  the  Dalles;  and  from  Celilo,  above  the  Dalles, 
to  the  Ufj-.ii.  of  the  Snake  River,  on  the  Columbia;  and  up  the  Snake 
to  Lcwiston.  Once  in  a  while  a  steamer  makes  a  trip  to  Priest  Rsipids, 
but  tiie  business  is  not  suilicient  at  present  to  cause  one  to  be  sent 
with  any  regularity.  The  Columbia,  from  the  month  of  the  Snake  to 
Priest  Rai.ids,  is  excellent  for  the  purpose  of  navigation  and  will  never 
need  any  improvement,  in  all  probability. 

If  Priest  Rapids  could  be  improved  it  would  give  navigation  thence 
to  Cabinet  Rapids,  a  few  miles  below  Rock  Island  Rapids.  The  conse- 
quence of  throwing  this  portion  of  the  river  into  the  prospective  con- 
tinuously navigable  river  below  will  be  readily  seen  by  a  study  of  the 
map.  The  splendid  valley  of  the  Kittitas  and  Upper  Yakima  would 
have  an  easy  and  short  outlet  to  the  navigable  river.  I  have  never  Ijeen 
in  this  portion  of  the  conntry,  but  am  assured  by  those  who  have  that 
a  great  amount  of  fine  land  exists  there. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  river  the  line  country  composing  Biwlger 
Mountain  ^•'^uld  be  benefited,  and  would  bo  settled  and  its  produce 
taken  to  tidewater  by  the  river  boats. 

The  amount  of  conntry  to  the  west  of  the  river  which  would  be  bene- 
fited by  the  improvement  of  Priest  Rapids  is  about  thirteen  bundi-ed 
square  miles,  of  which  a  large  portion  is  arable  and  grazing  land  of  ex- 
cellent quality.  On  the  east  of  the  river  there  is  an  area  of  about  four 
hundred  square  miles,  a  great  part  of  which  is  the  finest  quality  of  agri- 
cultural land.  This  of  course  is  the  area  to  be  directly  benetitetl;  indi- 
rectly, all  tlie  country  uj)  the  river  would  be  benefited,  i»s  well  sis  all  the 
portions  below  which  will  need  lumber  and  fuel,  readily  obtainable  in 
the  region  of  the  Upper  Yakima  and  Wenatchee. 

CABINET  AND  BOCK  ISLAND  BAPIDS. 

A  distance  of  about  forty-two  miles  of  navigable  water  lies  l»etween  the 
liea*1  of  Priest  Rapids  and  the  foot  of  Cabinet  Rapids.  This  portion  of 
the  river,  if  it  ever  becomes  well  known,  will  l)e  celebrated  for  its  lieauty 
and  grandeur.  Out  of  the  same  materials  as  those  which  compose  the 
"Giants'  Causeway"  of  Ireland,  nature  has  formed  and  decorat€<l  this 
locality. 

In  any  scheme  for  the  improvement  of  the  navigation  of  the  river 


!  i 


COLUMBIA   RIVEB. 


m 


Cabinet  BapidH  and  llock  Islaud  Rapids  inuat  be  coiiHidured  tugutUui' 
as  they  lie  only  about  four  miles  apart. 

Above  Bock  Island  Bapids  tliere  is  a  stretoh  of  ninety  niili^s  of  navi- 
gable water  to  Foster  Creek  Bapids,  ten  miles  above  the  Okiuaktino. 
In  this  section  of  the  river  there  are  some  portions  where  rocks  are  itlenty 
and  waters  swift  and  strong;  they  can,  however,  be  avoided  and  over- 
come by  a  moderate  amount  of  care,  a  sufficiency  of  power,  and  skill- 
ful navigation. 

There  are  four  bars  in  this  portion  of  the  river,  of  which  one,  about 
two  miles  below  the  Okiuakane,  and  another  about  eight  miles  below 
Chelan,  have  undoubtedly  a  sufficiency  of  water  for  all  purposes.  The 
Wenatchee  and  Enti-atqua  bars  are  worse,  and  it  will  be  well  to  <let«'r- 
nune  accurately  the  depth  of  water  on  them  at  the  lowest  navigable 
stage,  and  build  steamers  to  correspond  thereto. 

My  observation  did  not  extend  over  tlie  entire  water-course  at  either 
place,  aud  I  cannot  tell  positively  the  gl^ueral  depth  that  could  bo.  laken 
over.  I  believe,  however,  that,  on  the  Enti  at-(iua  bar  especially,  a 
steamer  drawing  more  than  three  feet  would  have  serious  difficulty  in 
getting  over  at  low-water. 

If  it  is  deemed  desirable  to  have  steamers  on  the  river  dr»wiug  more 
water  than  there  is  on  these  bars  it  will  be  easy  and  inexpensive  to 
dredge  out  a  channel  of  sufficient  depth,  and  it  might  be  that  a  simple 
improvemen*  in  the  form  of  a  wing-dam  would  cause  the  river  itself  to 
keep  a  channel  of  sufficient  depth  cut  through.  At  all  ordinary  stages, 
however,  there  would  be  plenty  of  water  for  the  class  of  boats  likely  to 
run  on  the  river  for  many  years  to  come. 

We  can  therefore  safely  conclude  that  with  Priest  Bapids  and  Cabi- 
net and  Rock  Islaud  Rapids  rendered  navigable,  the  Columbia  would 
be  passable  for  river  steamers  to  Foster  Creek  Rapids,  a  distance  from 
its  mouth  of  559  miles.  Let  us  consider  what  country  would  bo  bene- 
fited thereby. 

First  would  be  the  Wenatchee  country,  which  is  splendid  in  quality 
and  of  considerable  extent.  The  tine  Hat  of  iibout  twenty-Hve  N(iinire 
miles  near  the  mouth  is  all  that  I  can  speak  of  with  certainty,  but 
undoubtedly  up  the  river  are  other  valleys  suitable  for  agriculture,  and 
a  great  amount  of  fine  grazing  land.  The  timber  in  the  Wenatchee 
Mountains  and  in  the  whole  region  of  timbered  mountains  west  of  the 
Columbia  River  will  be  valuable,  and  the  whole  interior  country  will  be 
benefited  by  aiiy  plan  which  will  assist  in  giving  it  eswy  and  cheap 
transportation  to  those  sections  where  it  is  needed.  * 

Second.  About  the  mouth  of  the  Euti-at-qua  the  auiouut  oi' arable  land 
is  not  great ;  iis  to  what  may  be  in  the  interior,  I  am  unable  to  tell. 

Third.  About  Lake  Chelan  there  is  a  great  ileal  of  good  agricultural 
hiTld  in  the  form  of  open  prairies,  bnnch-grass-covered  hills,  and  liuli, 
rolling  timbered  country.  The  lake  will  furnish  the  means  of  getting  at 
a  large  amount  of  valuable  timber  which  exists  ah»ng  its  banks. 

Fourth.  About  the  upj)er  branches  of  the  Methow  theiv  is  a  cousider- 
S.  Ex.  186 8 


Mh 


Ml 


twv 


58  COLUMBIA   KIVEK. 

ablu  (txtoiit  of  ^(hmI  ii^^riuultiiriil  iviul  p'Hzitig  luiul.  Tbu  lower  i>ortiou 
ut'  Mu!  Metliow  tlowH  tIiroii(];h  ii  rmi^^e  of  wo<m1u«1  IiIIIh  iiiid  Ih  lieinined  in 
cloH«!ly  by  tliuiii;  furthiT  up,  tliuso  hillH  becoiiio  nioru  rolling  and  gnu4Ny, 
and  tho  biuikH  of  the  streams  are  bordered  by  level  and  wide  terraces 
of  excellent  soil.  Tliroiigliout  this  large  territory  of  4,075  square  miles, 
now  set  apart  for  (Jliief  Moses  and  his  i)eo])lo,  there  are  many  fine  val- 
leys and  agricultural  hills  which  wonld  be  l)eneftted  by  an  open  river. 

Fifth.  The  magnificent  country  bordering  upon  and  tributary  to  the 
Okinakane  wonld  bo  immensely  benefited  by  an  open,  through  river 
navigation.  I  have  already  described,  as  far  as  I  could,  the  country  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Okinakane,  and  will  not  do  so  again  here. 

Hixth.  All  that  portion  of  the  Groat  I'lain  of  the  Columbia  lying  be- 
tween the  river  and  the  Grand  Couhse  and  Uadger  Mountains  w«»uld 
be  benefited  by  the  improvement.  This  region  is  at  present  unsettle<l 
and  far  away  from  nuirket,  but  it  is  a  fine  agricultural  section  and  will 
have  a  large  ])opulation  some  day. 

The  amount  of  (sountry  which  would  receive  a  direct  benefit  from  the 
impmvemenl  uf  liock  Island  and  Cabinet  llapids,  assuming,  of  course, 
the  removal  of  all  obstructions,  and  a  free  and  open  river  below,  wouhl 
be  alwut  as  follows,  the  areas  given  being,  as  near  iis  possible,  the 
agricultural  and  choice  grazing  lands: 

Square  luilra. 

Viriiiity  ot  Wcmitclico  iiml  Knti-nt-qiiu I'M 

Viciiiily  of  Liiko  Chuliin 100 

Vicinity  <if  Motliow .V)0 

Viuiiiity  of  Okiiiiikiuio  1, 120 

Qi'uat  I'luiii,  west  of  Qrand  and  Mohos  Cuutduo U80 

J  Total 2,820 

The  indirect  benefits  to  the  whole  country  east  of  the  mountains  would 
be  very  great,  iis  it  would  insure  tho  ctmy  and  cheap  transportation  to 
the  grain  belts  about  Walla- Walla  and  tho  Lower  Snake  and  Columbia 
of  the  wood  and  lumber  abounding  about  Lake  Chelan,  the  Wenatchee, 
Methuw,  Okinakane,  and  other  streams.  This  commerce  in  lumber  will 
certainly  be  of  great  importance.  Besides  the  commercial  interests  in- 
volved in  tho  raising  and  shipment  of  grain,  cattle,  wool,  lumber,  &c., 
other  interests  of  great  iniportiince  are  apt  to  bo  created  as  the  country 
is  examined,  if  mines  of  the  precious  metals,  iron,  coal,  &c.,  are  dis- 
covered and  developed. 

1  come  next  to  consider  the  benefits  which  would  arise  if  the  river 
from  Foster  Creek  Rapids  to  the  Mahkin  Rapids  was  improved  so  as  to 
allow  boats  to  pass  freely  from  the  good  river  below  to  the  good  river 
above  and  vice  versa.  lu  order  to  consider  this  proi)erly  it  is  necessary 
to  go  ahead  a  little  and  take  a  look  at  Uell  Gate  and  the  Spokane  Rap- 
ids, the  only  other  obstructions  worthy  of  mention  below  Grand  Ra^iMs 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Colville  River. 

Until  proved  to  the  contrary  I  shall  consider  that  Hell  Gate  is  navi- 


COLUMIUA   HIVER.  69 

giihlo  l>oth  up  uiitl  down  for  HUiaiiierM.  U'  it  in  proved  to  Iw  too  Hwift 
for  lioata  to  attctMid,  tluMi  soiiio  iii»tliod  iiiiiMt  l)ea<lopt(Ml  for  its  itiiprovo- 
incut  wliicli  cau  be  cousidertnl  further  on. 

Acknowledpng  that  Hull  (late  in  navigable,  wo  come  to  the  Spolcane 
llapidH,  which  are  not  navigable,  except  by  a  Nteamer  UHing  a  lino. 
Tlioy  are  Hhort  and  the  waters  have  a  <'«naiderable  fall ;  but  as  1  liavt« 
l)rovionaly  said,  they  can  be  i-endered  ptwsablo  at  a  aniall  ttxiHMiae  by 
removing  the  bowlders  and  nMtks  which  clog  the  channel  an«l  are  the 
cause  of  the  rapids.  An  expenditure  of  $2(»,(KK)  would,  1  believe,  ette«!t- 
nally  improve  this  bad  place  and  render  it  eivaily  navigable  at  all  stages 
of  water.  In  the  mean  time,  until  their  improvement  shall  bo  complete*!, 
any  boats  engag«<l  in  commerce  on  tlio  river  C4iu  line  over  the  rapid 
safely,  as  the  (;hannel  has  plenty  of  depth  and  is  stniight. 

This  portion  of  the  river  then  from  Mahkiii  to  Grand  liiipids,  a  dis- 
tance of  one  hundred  and  •  twenty-two  miles,  must  1)0  ctmsidered  as 
navigable,  since  the  only  obstructions  in  it  are  of  such  a  temporary 
iiai  ure. 

If,  then,  wo  assume  that  the  river  from  Foster  Creek  Btipids  to  Mah- 
kin  liapids  be  improve<l  to  allow  the  passage  of  boats,  we  see  that  it 
will  open  up  tlie  river  to  Grand  Itapids,  aiul  all  the  country  tributary  to 
the  river  up  to  this  point  will  be  directly  benotited  by  the  improvement. 
Abcuta  goo<l  deal  of  this  country  very  little  is  known,  but  judging  fn»ni 
what  I  do  know  and  have  been  told,  and  from  the  geueral  appearance 
of  the  country  as  seen  from  a  distivnce,  I  think  that  a  fair  estimate  of 
the  gomi  prmluctivc  land  (amble  and  grazing)  which  by  means  of  the 
liver  improvement  would  l>e  brought  into  direct  river  conununicatiou 
with  tide-water  is  aa  follows : 

Sqnans  mile*. 

Vicinity  of  NoHpilom  Uiver 'MtO 

Vicinity  of  Sung  Foil  Kivcr MO 

Iniinedlnto  vicinity  of  Colnmliin  Rivor l.CW) 

Vicinity  of  Colvilif!  Kiv«r WK) 

Vicinity  of  Hpoliano  Kivcr. iJlK) 

Uro»t  Plain  south  of  8|Hikane  and  Columbia 2,400 

Total r.,  120 

It  is  scarcely  worth  while  for  mt.  to  enlarge  on  the  general  l)eneflt  to 
the  whole  North  Columbian  liasin,  which  would  be  conferred  by  re- 
moving all  the  obstructions  and  giving  through  river  navigation  from 
Grand  Hapids  to  the  sea. 

The  continued,  earnest,  and  united  efibrts  of  other  counti'ies  and  sec- 
tions to  obtstin  water  transportation  to  the  seaboard  by  means  of  rivers 
and  canals,  sufticicntly  attest  the  estimation  in  which  it  is  held  by  the 
people,  and  its  value  and  importnnt^  are  clearly  shown  by  all  the  navi- 
gable rivers  and  internal  water  routes  of  the  world. 

The  Government  of  the  United  Stivt<is  has  i»)nnnene^l  the  improve- 
ment of  the  Columbia  at  the  first  obstruction,  the  Caacadej^;  it  has 


w 


fiO 


COMTMIUA    niVEH. 


tnkoii  tlio  im'liiiiinary8loi)a  towanl  tlio  iniprovoin(Mit  at.  tlio  DalloH,  and 
it.  will  ore  long  he  called  upon  t/)  commonco  the  iinprovoment  at  PrieBt 
lCa|)i(lN  and  tlut  upper  rapids  to  give  a  continiioiiHly  iiavigablo  river. 

ff  we  take  a  glance  forward  to  the  time  when  all  tliiK  eaHt«rn  portion 
of  VVaHliinpt<in  Territory  shall  he  settled,  when  the  whole  land  shall  be 
n  waving  Held  of  grain,  with  Iieni  and  thci-e  a  village  or  a  eity ;  with 
railroads  traversing  tha  country  in  every  direction,  and  a  vivst  com- 
mence being  carric<l  oii  between  the  sea  and  the  interior ;  if  we  ]>icture 
to  ourselves  all  this  with  the  Columbia  in  it.s  present  stat«  of  inter- 
ru])ted  navigability,  and  then  picture  it  with  the  river  cxiniidettdy  navi- 
gable from  the  Orand  Kapi<l8  to  its  mouth,  we  shall  be  abh^  in  some 
d(^greeto  apjircciato  the  imjmrtance  of  underfill  and  completing  the 
great  works  of  invprovement  needed  on  the  river. 

In  considering  the  amelioration  of  the  river  from  Grand  Rapids  to  its 
nmuth,  we  can  divide  the  rapids  which  form  obstruotions  to  navigation 
into  two  classes :  Jirst,  those  which  do  not  a^lmit  the  passage  of  steam- 
ers either  in  ascending  or  descending  the  river,  and  cannot  be  miule 
to  a<lmit  this  passage  by  any  work  upon  the  rapids  themselves  ;  and, 
Hccond,  those  which,  while  forbidding  the  passage  of  steivmers  in  ascend- 
ing, permit  them  to  descend  in  fafety  or  can  be  miule  to  permit  the 
downward  passage  by  work  on  the  rapids  themselves. 

The  Dalles,  the  Cascades,  Grand  Rapids,  and  Kettle  Falls  belong  to 
the  first  class;  all  the  other  bad  rapids  belong  to  the  second  class. 

Priest,  Cabinet,  Rock  Island,  and  the  Ne8])ilem  rapids  all  permit  or  can 
r(!a<lily  be  made  to  pernnt  the  down  ward  passage  of  steamers.  If,  then, 
we  sujjpose  that  a  loaded  steamer  engaged  in  river  commerce  can  start  at 
(}rand  Rapids  and  safely  descend  the  river  to  the  Dalles,  and  by  means 
of  improvements  here  and  at  the  Cascatles,  to  the  river's  mouth,  the 
problem  simplifies  itself  into  adopting  some  system  of  improvement  to 
jMU'iiiit  this  steamer  with  its  load  to  ascend  the  river. 

Passing  up  from  the  Cascailes  and  Dalles,  the  first  obstacle  which  j)ro- 
sents  it«elf  is  Priest  Rapids. 

IMPROVEMENT  OP  PBIEST  RAPIDS. 

The  proper  plan  for  improving  these  rapids  must  bo  determined  by 
further  surveys  and  observations  extending  over  a  greater  length  of  time 
than  I  could  devote  to  them.  The  lower  8y8t«n»  of  rapids,  consisting  of 
the  fifth,  sixth,  and  seventh,  are  close  together,  and  connected  with  the 
u])p(!r  system  of  the  first,  second,  third,  and  fourth  rapids  by  a  good 
•piiet  stretch  of  river. 

I  thought  while  in  the  vicinity  of  the  rapida  that  perhaps  this  lower 
system  might  \w  improved  and  rendered  sufliciontly  navigable  by  work- 
ing upon  the  bed-rock  and  bowlders  in  the  river,  blasting  and  desiring 
away  a  ]»roperly  laid-ont  channel ;  further  refiection,  however,  induces 
me  to  be  cautions  about  expressing  such  an  opinion.    Captain  Gora,  com- 


H 


COMTMMIA   RIVER. 


ni 


mniuliiif;  ono  of  tlioOropon  Railway  nnd  Xavijffttlon  (Company  Htoiiinora, 
told  1110  that  lio  wont  witli  IiIh  Htwitncr  up  tlimiiKh  tlii.s  HyHt«'iii  into  flio 
Ko<m1  water  lieyond, and  turnml  anxind  andnltn»hlu^k,  ki'cpiiif;  tli<t  ctiaii- 
ii<d  near  the  loft  bank.  IIih  tri])  was  niailo  wlu>u  the  water  waH  at  a  low 
stage  and  with  an  unloa4le<l  boat. 

If  the  iniprovonuMit  could  be  effected  by  this  means  the  cost  Avould 
not  be  great.  It  nniy  Imi  that  the  upper  syHtein  of  riii)ldH  can  bo  ini 
proved  by  the  method  of  blanting  and  clearing  out  the  river.  Above 
the  rapids  there  is  a  long  stretch  of  very  (piii^t,  deeji  water,  which  will 
l>ear  lowering  and  quickening  a  great  ileal,  suHiciently  to  enable  the 
river  to  assnnui  a  navigable  8lo|HMlown  to  tlu*  middle  g(M>d  water.  If 
the  liver  from  the  mouth  of  Crab  OI•«^ek  Coulee  to  a  jioint  a  few  miles 
below  the  rapids  could  Im)  regularised,  it  wonld  nndonbtedlybeniivigable. 

If,  however,  when  tlu^  proper  detaile<l  surveys  have  been  made  and 
experiments  conducte*!,  it  is  fimnd,  as  I  lielievo  it  will  lie,  that  it  is  not 
])ra<>ticabln  to  improve  the  IhmI  of  the  rivi  suttlciently  to  give  goixl 
navigation,  then  some  other  means  must  be  adopted. 

The  iMjst  means  to  adopt  for  this  purimse  I  conwive  to  be  a  railway, 
over  which  boats  can  be  transported  from  the  foot  of  the  ra|)ids  to  the 
head. 

1  would  advocate  a  railway  in  preference  to  a  canal  and  locks,  on 
the  ground  of  exjiense.  The  cost  of  the  construction  of  a  railway  and 
its  adjuncts  would  probably  be  not  more  than  than  one  sixth  to  one- 
fourth  of  the  cost  of  a  canal  alwut  Priest  Ka])ids,  and  its  operating  ex- 
penses wouhl  not  bo  very  much  greater.  About  the  Nespilem  Rapids, 
fmm  Foster  Creek  to  Mahkin  Rapids,  the  cost  of  a  (ianal  with  locks 
would  be  so  gi-eat  as  to  render  it  entirely  out  of  the  question  to  build  it 
or  even  to  contemplate  building  it;  while  the  cost  of  a  railway  would 
be  a  reasonable  sum  proportionable  to  the  iHjnefits  to  be  derivcid  from  it, 
and  would  answer  every  purpose  of  a  canal. 

Steamboats  can  certainly  go  down  Priest  Rapids  safely  if  under  st,eam 
and  with  sound  steering-apparatus.  To  give  entire  safety  and  avoid  as 
far  as  possible  all  risks,  it  might  and  probably  would  be  found  neces- 
sary to  remove  some  rocks  from  the  channel.  Tho  cxi>enso  of  doing  this 
would  bo  slight. 

Tho  coufonnation  of  the  ground  is  |)eculiarly  favorable  for  the  <'(>ii- 
struction  of  a  railway.  It  is,  along  the  left  bank,  a  level  plain  of  solid 
soil,  largely  composed  of  bowlders  and  gravel,  at  a  slight  elevation, 
probably  not  more  than  forty  feet  above  the  river.  As  the  rivtu"  is  na\ 
igablo  for  boats  bound  down,  the  railway  would  have  for  its  end  only 
the  tnking  of  boatA  up  stream,  and,  in  consei]uence,  tho  construction 
and  operation  would  be  very  simple.  It  proVtably  would  not  take  more 
than  a  quarter  to  a  thinl  of  tho  time  to  build  a  railway  that  it  would  a 
canal,  and  onc«  well  built  the  railway  could  be  nmintainc<l  and  ke|>t  in 
ortler  ivs  cheaply  as  the  canal. 

While  it  is  very  far  from  my  intention  to  give  a  delaile<l  plan  for  a 


I 


^:n 


•I* 


62 


COLirMHIA    RIVER. 


riiilwiiy  for  trtiiiHpnrtinfl:  rivor  boiitH  iirouixl  tlie  r»pi«U  of  tlin  ('nliiiiibiit 
Itivcr,  ,vi)t  I  wIhIi  to  k>vm  a  very  (;«iiHriil  oiitliiifl  (»t°  hu»Ii  ii  pluii. 

•FiiHt  biilow  tlio  foot  of  tlic  nipi<lM  uii  iiioliiitMl  triu-k  cmhiIiI  run  down 
int4>  <liH>|)  wut«r.  A  carriii^o,  or  <riir,  with  itH  top  hIihimmI  to  riHMMVv  tli(« 
bottom  of  tlui  bout,  (;oiil<i  bo  run  down  on  this  track  into  tlu^duep  wnter 
and  tlio  boat  lucvivcd  in  it. 

A  Htationary  (Migino  could  tako  the  catTiaK<^  and  Itoat  up  th<^  inclinn 
to  a  Nuniniit  point  Hutliciontly  IiIkIi  to  ^'iv«  a  slight  down  gnulo  Ut  tii» 
dt'op  water  at  the  liead  of  tho  rapidH.  At  the  Huniniit  tho  verticuil  «li- 
riMttion  roiihl  be  changed,  and  a  locomotive  could  take  the  carriage  and 
boat  down  U>  the  head  of  tho  rapidN,  and  bring  back  the  carriage.  At 
I'rieHt  RapidH  thecoiirHe  of  the  railway  coidd  Iw  |)erfectly  straight,  ob- 
viating any  necesMity  for  u  horizontal  change  of  dire4;tion.  The  time 
which  would  be  (Htcupicd  in  making  the  iM)rtage  netnl  not  exe^MMl  two 
liourH  at  the  moHt,  and  by  having  Ncveral  carriagCH  the  |tm<-eHH  of  taking 
one  boat  u])  the  incline  could  go  on  coincidently  with  the  trauHport^ition 
of  another  to  the  heiul  of  the  rapids,  ho  that,  with  everything  working 
\vii\],  it  may  be  mifely  entimatetl  that  a  lM>at  e^uid  Im)  taken  over  every 
hour  with  a  Hingle  track.  TIiIh  would  accomnioihite  the  river  C4>nimorex) 
for  many  yearn  to  come,  and  if  it  ever  became  ne4»'8sary  the  fat^litieH 
for  trauHporting  boatn  could  be  indetlnitoly  increaHc*!  by  building  a 
double  tra(!k  for  the  return  of  the  carriage,  and  ailding  the  ne<'.eHHary 
improvcmentH  to  the  plant. 

The  class  of  boatn  which  it  will  bo  found  most  advantageouH  to  nm 
on  the  lJi)por  (/olumbia  will  proltubly  be  f(nnid  to  l)c  Ninular  to  thoHO 
now  run  on  the  Hnake  River,  and  of  which  the  8|M>kanc,  Annie  Faxtui, 
anil  Abuota  are  types.  The  Annie  Faxon,  the  largeM  of  these,  is  105 
fei^t  long,  37  feet  beam,  "i  foot  <lepth  of  hold,  and  has  a  nieaHurc<l  tonnage 
of  7f>9  tons. 

If  we  suppose  a  boat  with  hor  load  having  a  dinplacement  of  80t)  tons, 
which  is  ])robably  the  largest  boat  that  would  demand  triinsiHHtation, 
the  carriage  or  car  on  which  to  transport  her  must  weigh  alNUit  1(M>  tons. 
This  i)(H)  tons  is  the  weight  to  l)e  traus]M)rt«<l  and  handled  on  the  rail- 
road. Once  up  the  incline  it  can  readily  be  handled  by  a  gooil  freight 
locomotive  on  a  properly  constructed  track.  This  w^ould  lie  much  n>oro 
than  would  ordinarily  be  taken  over,  as  most  of  the  freight  would  l)e 
down  river,  and  boats  would  bo  lightly  laden  going  np  Htreani. 

Another  very  favorable  circumstance  which  wonld  facilitate  the  oj)er- 
ation  of  a  boat  railway  aliout  Priest  liapids  is  the  very  small  riHc  and 
I'all  of  tho  river  here.  I  cannot  say  what  the  difference  between  high 
and  low  water  is,  but  it  in  very  much  less  than  at  most  other  pointn  on 
the  'iver,  and  ])robably  not  more  than  tiighteen  to  twenty  feet. 

If  a  eanal  shoidd  be  decided  on  instead  of  a  railway,  tho  rout«  wonld 
lie  tho  same,  along  tho  loft  bank.  The  same  may  l>OHaid  of  an  ordinary' 
portage  railway  for  tlu^  transfer  of  fri'ight,  &c.,  from  lioatii  at  one  end 
to  iMmta  at  the  other  end  of  the  rapitlR. 


li^ 


1! 


■  '  "it 


COLUMIilA    KIVKU. 


63 


IMritdVUHKNT  OF  CAIllNKT  AMD   BOCK   I8LAND  UAI'lUH. 


Uiirt!  till*  rivur  iit  Uiohu  rupids  in  wull  known  to  un  cxiMTtontH')!  iiiiil 
Hkilirul  HUnlllliHm^  captain,  liu  can  take  IiIh  lM>at<lown  tliroiiKli  lH)tli  with 
entire  nalety,  if  thv  lie  nndur  tfwnl  buailway  inl  with  tMiiinil  an*l  efllirieiit 
Hte«'rin(;  apiiaratiiN.    Of  thJH  I  have  no  il(inl)t. 

At  the  sta^e  of  water  wliieh  exiNteil  wliun  I  paHmnl  thronf;h,  it  Heenuil 
to  n)e  tliat  a  giUMl,  powerful  Htwuner,  li);htl.v  loiuliMl,  eonlil  aMceinl  thmnffh 
Ixtth.  However,  at  tho  beHt  tkeHu  rapidH  ore  not  to  1h-  (;onr«idei'ed 
navigable  in  their  present  uondition,  for  ordinary  boatM  heavily  Ic.  ileil 
(■(udd  not  iMcend.  <!al)inet  Uapi<lH  can  be  very  nineli  improved;  kuIII 
eiently  ho,  I  believe,  by  reniovint;  ttoniuof  the  rockn  which  jut  out  from 
tho  U^tt  bank  and  rise  from  the  water  towartlH  thiri  bank.  Tlit're  is  a 
Htretvli  of  cpiiet  water  ulM)ve  the«u  rapidH  which  would  allow  of  beinj; 
'|uickenc«l  by  the  removal  of  thoMO  damming  rm^kH. 

The  renu)val  of  8,(H)0  cubic  yarda  of  n)ck  at  a  cost  of  alN>ut  tT.'iO  per 
yard,  making  an  expeuHe  of  #(>(),<MM>,  would  lie  Hutlicient  for  the  pui'po,s«>, 
I  believe,  and  give  Hatmfactory  navigation  up  to  the  foot  of  lUx-k  iMlund 
UapidN. 

Kock  iMlaud  Uapi<lH  nro  so  Hituate<l  and  formed  that  a  Hteanier,  in 
going  up,  (Hiuld  take  a<lvantage  of  many  eddit-H,  and  work  her  way  up 
byerosHiug  over  the  ripples  from  one  side  to  another.  There  are  Home 
sunken  rocks  and  jutting  points  which  might  interfere  with  thin,  and 
which  should  be  ronioved.  JS  careful  study  of  the  nipids  and  expt'ii 
ments  with  a  steamer  would  determine  which  of  these  rocks  and  points 
it  would  be  well  and  necessary  to  remove,  and  whether  the  navigation 
could  be  imulo  satisfactory  by  such  means.  There  is  this  to  be  said:  for 
a  number  of  years,  until  tho  country  becomes  well  settled,  the  river  trans 
portiition  demanded  will  be  small  in  amount,  and  any  exjtedient  which 
w  ill  give  piiHsable  transportatiou  over  these  ni|>ids  will  be  of  great  vidue 
in  scuttling  the  country  abovi.'. 

The  fiiud  and  complete  improveinent  of  liock  Island  Uapids  will 
undoubtedly  re^piire  that  either  a  (;anal  or  a  railway  shall  be  con 
structed  to  allow  tho  jiussage  of  boatN  from  lielow  to  above  the  rapids. 

As  at  Priest  Uapids,  so  here,  I  shou'd  a<lvo<!ate  the  construction  of  a 
railway,  and  for  the  same  reasons.  To  go  around  lto<:k  Island  Uapids 
jiroper,  a  railway  would  require  to  be  about  two  an<l  a  half  miles  long 
and  to  (;hangc  direction  once,  both  vertically  and  horizontally.  If  Cab- 
inet Uajiids  ciinnot  be  sutliciently  imjiroved  by  working  on  the  rocks 
of  its  bed,  the  railway  must  b')  extendc(*  down  to  include  them.  In 
this  case  the  railway  would  be  ai)out  six  miles  long,  and  would  not 
ueed  to  change  its  dircctiou  horiz  intally. 

The  couformatiou  of  the  grounu  Is  well  suitetl  for  the  construction  of 
a  railway.  At  ItocK  Island  I!apids  the  right  bank  of  the  river  rises 
about  one  hundred  feet  to  a  uoarly  level  plat«iau,  which  «'xtendH  down 
almost  to  Cabinet  liapids.    In  the  materials  of  this  plateau  the  bed  of 


i«S*Tl^fflMUMfrByMIM«> 


G4 


COMJMH'A    KIVEK. 


tlio  milw&y  would  be  wwily  iiitKio,  »ud  'Vfilil  bo  solid  and  eiiduriii^'. 
Tlu'  pliUwiii  ^I'li'iis  (lilt,  coiisidcnibly  at  Kock  Itilaud  l{iiiud8,  and  v,x- 
Wutln  lor  about  threv  riiileH  itl>ovt. 

rWPRONTSMENT  OF  THE  NE8PILEM  RAPIDB.  -    •' 


Tbc  iiiiiiri.vcmfiit  oi'  the  (^)Iiunbia  River  fi"oin  Foster  (Irw^k  to  Mali- 
kill  KajiiilN,  Vw  w  hcWe  systcni  boiiig  known  as  tli**  Iiespileni  Itapids,  i« 
K.'Xt  to  be,  (soiisabMvd.  After  traversiiif^  this  portion  of  tlio  rivt-r  I 
iMUiif  to  the  coiicliiNioii,  at  ti."8t,  that  it  was  ho  ba<l,  and  the  bjtd  portion 
HO  extensive,  that  it«  ainelio  "ation  woidd  bo  so  expensive  tliat  the  ben- 
elitH  to  l>o  derived  tlierefrom  tvouM  not  justify  the  work.  Further  re- 
Ih'ctioii  however,  and  stuily  of  the  (iountry,  tlie  viver,  and  inethodi*  of 
improvenieiir,  cotivinee  me  to  the  contniry,  and  I  thorouj,'hiy  believe 
that  nieaiiH  can  Im»  iwloptod  at  <i  reasonrtble  expense  which  will  permit 
tlu^  paHHape  of  boats  up  and  down  the  river,  and  that  the  rerpsirenientH 
of  eoiiiiiieree  will  in  the  future  demand  and  insure  its  being  done. 

In  this  stret/ch  of  ubout  twenty-four  miles,  there  are  fouitecn  distlnet 
;  ij-iMes,  Hoiue  o*  then  a  mile  or  more  in  length.  How  niiieh  of  this  stretch 
ran  be  inaAle  iia .  igable  for  upward-bound  boatJH  by  work  on  the  river-bed 
it  is  inipessible  ibi  me  to  say.  Probably  a eoiisiderable  portion  of  it  could 
Ik".  Many  of  lie  rapids  and  ripi)les  are  caused  by  an  aeeumnlation  of 
great  rocks  in  the  river  brought  there  by  ice  transportation,  and  the 
reiiiov  ill  of  these  would  hiive  a  very  great  effect  on  the  current.  While 
I  be'ieve  that  it  would  be  dangerous  for  a  steamboat  to  run  these  Nes- 
jiiieiu  Itiijiids,  yet  I  believo  at  the  same  time  that  by  the  removal  of 
s(i  <-  :  obnoxious  rocks  um':  points,  and  the  acipiiring  of  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  river,  itii  current*,  ciianuels,  eddies,  &c.,  it  could  be 
done  with  entire  safety,  prrvided  no  ac<;i>leiit  occurred  on  the  st^iamboat 
itself  1  sec  no  reason  w'ly  goo«l  steamers,  with  cr.ieful  and  experienced 
captains,  ci:i;..ot  i<i;'.kc  a  lusiiiess  of  running  down  through  theiie  rapids. 

Ciarefiil  si.rveys,  obseivations,  and  experiments  could  determine 
which  of  the  rapids  can  1k>  imule  to  permit  the  ascent  of  boats ;  about 
the  others,  boat  railways,  similar  t'j  those  jiropoaed  for  Triest  and  Uock 
Island  Kapids,  can  be  built. 

Hy  a  well  considered  system  of  river  improvement,  and  boat  railways, 
I  iliink  that  the  passage  of  the  Nespilem  Kapids  can  be  successfully 
accoinpiislied. 

A  railway  w<>uhl  probably  be  necessary  about  ro8V"«r  Creek  Uapids, 
ubout  the  Long  itapids,  embracing  Kalichen  Falls  and  Whirlpool 
Uaisids,  and  po-ssibly  iiboiit  Mahkin  Kapids,  three  in  all.  The  tirst 
woiinl  be  about  two  and  a  half  miles  long,  the  second  about  four  aiul^i 
lialf,  and  ti'c  last  t'vo  miles  long. 

At  the  Fost«'r  (reek  liajiids  the  ground  is  favorable  for  any  kind  of 
construction,  ai'd  a  railway  would  be  easily  built.  At  the  other  jvuices 
the  ground  is  uot  favorable,  and  the  construction  would  be  ditlicult  and 


COLUMBIA    KIVKR.  65 

ox|M-nsivc  in  Roin])iiri80ii  to  \vii»t  it  Wdiiltl  1m^  <m  unv  other  )iliKH^  vvhoro 
tiic  riiihva.v  would  Im>  i!t'«' led.  It  would  1k'  still  luort-  uuliiMUiililr  (or 
any  kiml  ofcaniil  i'oustrM  .'  )U. 

To  HUimnarizo  tlu'U,  tlif  s.VNteni  of  inipro  •fuiciit.s  tliiit  I  would  lulvo 
VAVti'.  to  pvt'  continuoiiK  iitivi;;ulioii  from  (irand  Kapids  to  tlir  nioutli  of 
tilt!  Oolutuliia  Kivor  in  an  follows: 

First.  The  iinprovoiiiciit  rc><|iiire*l  at  tlio  Hpokmu;  llapidH,  tho  expouNu 
of  which  would  Iw  slight. 

Hecond.  A  combined  H.VHtcni  of  river  impntviMuout  and  hoaf  iiiihviiy,s 
u!  '.he  Nespilom  l{apid». 

Third.  A  boat  railway  at  Ii.)ck  iHland  Uapids,  ami  the  iinprovenienl 
of  the  river  at  t'abinet  Kapids, 

Fourth.  Tl'^^  (ioUHtruetion  of  iv  boat  niilway  aitiuud  I'riesi  ItapidN. 

Fifth  and  .sixth.  The  eouNtrnction  of  a  canal  with  htcka  about  the 
DallcH  and  the  (?a.scadeH. 

The  foliiiwinji  ai)i)n)ximatc  estinutt**  of  thucost  of  the  impi-ovenients 
above  the  .iioiith  of  Snake  Itiver  is  fjiven : 

lldiit  raiiw.i.v  unmnil  rrii'sl  Ku|ii(lH #('iO<l,  (MX) 

Hniit  iiiilwiiy  iiroiiml  l{r.;k  IhIihiiI  Itupid:) (iMi.  (MIO 

Ilnat  niihviiy  hioiiikI  I'listtT  Ciim'I-  KiijiiilH 40<l,  IHH) 

Itoiit  riiilwH.v  iiioniid  Kiilichcn  KhUm,  Ac WMI,(hio 

lioat  ruilwaj'  uruuiul  Mahkin  KapitlH .Mhi,  (HH) 

f.>,7IN».0(HI 

Improvpiiien'  of  tlie  rivor  at  l*riest  Rapids fill,  ikik 

Improvfiiu'iit  <if  the  livi-r  iit  Cnliiiirt  RiipidB till, (NN» 

Iiiipr<iv<MiiiMit  of  lilt'  liviT  at  Rocli  IhIiiucI  Rupidit ',i.'i,(KM) 

Iiiiprovenieiit  of  did  river  at  Nrspiliiii   KapidH ir>U,(MKJ 

luiprovci.ii'iit  of  tlic  river  at  Spukiiiu'  liapidn 'Jti,  (MM) 

,      Total $;),  (M)5, 000 

III  view  of  tho  probability  or  at  least  possibility  of  the  govern nient, 
at  some  future  time,  undertaking  the  iinprovenients  mentioned,  it  would 
seem  to  lie  a  wise  stej)  to  secure  now  the  lands  which  would  be  needed 
for  the  railways  and  works. 

The  lands  are,  I  believe,  unsur\eyed,  and  strips  conid  be  set  aside 
and  reserved  from  sale  for  the  purjioses  of  improvement  wilhonl  (•()«(  to 
the  government  or  hardshi])  to  any  private  iti(li\  idinil. 

Whatever  system  of  improvement  be  adojittMl  it  would  be  necesHary 
to  have  these  lands,  and  I  would  suggest  that  proper  steps  Im^  taken  to 
reserve  them. 

ISesides  the  method  of  taking  boats  up  around  the  rapids  by  lailway, 
other  niethtKls  and  combinations  of  methmls  may  1m'  found  when  the 
attention  of  engineers  is  thoughtfully  directed  tliereto.  It  is  highly 
probalile  that  in  sotne  localities,  ju'rhaps  in  all,  a  system  of  waiping 
lines  can  be  arninged  whi(!h  will  enable  the  boats  to  snrmounl  flie  most 
rapid  portions  of  the  eiirietit,  their  own  power  fakiii),  them  ovei  all  the 
intermediary  water  between  the  si'.ccessive  ripph'.^. 
S.  Ex.  l.Sti 1> 


m 


','WM*  Jii^li^W"«I^IPfP"«ipH^W 


66 


COLUMBIA    RIVKR. 


A  l)oat  proviiliMl  witli  ii  k'xmI  Ht4>ani  capHtuii  or  (Iriiin  could  make  tuHt 
to  II  (1,x«m1  wai'piiiK  liiH'  or  lii.i's  and  work  liiTHcIf  up  oviT  the  rapids;  <)r 
tliu  liiMt  could  he  worked  \>s,  a  steam  eu/rinc  and  drum  on  sliore  :it  the 
hciul  of  the  rapitln,  thuH  K>^'i"l7  (!■<'  Ix'^t  having  lioUl  ot  the  line  the 
ailditional  jiower  re(|uired. 

Uock  Ishuid  Kapiilii,  portions  of  the  Nonpilem  I{a]>idH,  an<I  Hell  Oate 
would  secMi  to  Im;  well  Hituatetl  for  this  method  of  navipition,  owing  to 
the  favor.  I)le  confornmtion  of  the  shores  and  islands. 

Thuro  would  of  <:ourHe  he  danger  to  the  boats  if  the  Hiioh  should 
break,  hut  this  danger  coulil  be  vei'v  largely  guarded  against  by  using 
strong  and  s[)eeiall,v  prepared  cables  of  steel  or  iron  wire,  by  having 
facilities  for  disengaging  the  cable  instantly,  by  keejting  u)>  steum,  being 
tlutroiighly  aeriuaintc^<l  with  the  liver,  and  knowing  exactly  what  to  do 
in  (  ase  of  accident  at  any  ]M)iMl  in  the  transit. 

This  would  be  very  much  less  expensive  than  the  boatrailway  sys- 
tem, if  it  could  be  made  i)racti<'able. 

I  am  thoroughly  convinced  that  i^killfnl  engineers  will  iind  some 
melliodor  methods  forgiving  satisfactory  naxigation  tliroughont  nearly 
the  whole  (;(airs(.-  of  the  Columbia  within  uur  borders,  when  the  time 
comes  that  it  shall  be  tiemanded. 


OllANU   11AP1U8,   KKTXLK  FALLS,   AND  LITTLE  DALLES. 

(irand  Uapids  und  Kettle  Falls  taken  together  form  an  obNtruction  to 
the  navigation  of  the,  river  which  it  cannot  be  hoped  will  ever  be  over- 
conu'.  Thert^  d(K-s  not  seem  to  be  any  probability  that  sutlicient  com- 
merce will  be  ileveloped  on  the  ni»per  river  to  Justify  the  gri'at  expense 
that  would  be  incurred  in  giving  navigation  around  these  two  obstruu- 
tioiis. 

An  ordinary  iM)rtage  railroad  coidd  be  very  easily  built  around  them 
if  it  should  be  desirable.  Probably  a  route  for  a  portage  along  the  west 
hank  would  be  the  most  economical  onetosele(!t,ifother(piestionsdidnot 
come  in,  to  cause  the  one  along  the  east  bank  to  he  chosen.  ]>y  laying 
the  portage  on  the  east  hank,  a  i)ortion  of  the  Colvillo  Valley  Itoad  to 
(irand  iiapids  would  be  utili/.ed. 

Above  Kettle  Falls  the  river  is  navigable  for  twenty  six  miles  to  the 
Little  Dalles.  Thest-  latter  can  be  ascended  by  steamers  using  a  lino, 
but  this  is  not.  of  (course,  satisfactory  navigation.  It  would  not  take  a 
very  large  amount  of  money  to  rendcir  this  obstruction  ]»assahle.  In  all 
probability,  however,  it  will  he  found  when  the  country  becomes  settled, 
and  the  river  alM)ve  the  Little  Dali.s  navigated,  that  a  branch  line  of 
railroiul  will  t)e  required  from  the  nniin  Colville  Valley  up  Mill  Creek  and 
Echo  Valley,  and  through  to  the  river  above  the  Little  Dalles.  This 
branch  line,  in  counexition  with  the  portion  of  the  Colville  Valley  Mosul 
running  through  the  lower  part  of  the  valley  to  the  river  below  Grand 
liapids,  will  form  a  i>ortiige  road  aronud  all  these  falls.    The  length  of 


COLirMrtlA    KIVKK. 


67 


tliia  line  by  the  cin-.uiU>u8  roiit«  tlitit  it  would  go  in  aXwnt  tliirtytlvo 
niilos. 

Above  the  liittle  DiiUes  the  river  in  iiiivij;al>Ui  for  two  limuhed  iiiiit 
eighty  iiiilcH  to  Death  Itaplds,  iieeordiii^  (<>  the  eHtiiiiiitt^  of  ('ii|)tain 
Piiif;stoiie,  or  two  hundred  and  lwenly(iv<'  miles,  nceording  to  the  eHti- 
inat4>  of  Alexander  Hohm  an<l  otiierH, 

'  ThiH  extreiiio  upjier  imviKuble  jtortion  of  the  rivor  can  be  UHed  most 
(M'ononueally  in  eonnec^tion  with  raib-oad.s,  a  portimi  nf  the  raib-oad  .syN- 
teni  ^ivin^  a  portajje  around  the  obstrntitionH,  and  a  I'iver,  liM  well  as  a 
mil  eoniiniiiucation,  with  the  eounfy  Indow.       ' 

PORTAGE   SYSTEM   OF    NAVIGATION. 

Ah  it  iniiHt  l>e  many  j'ears  before  the  ini|)rovenientH  mentioned  in  the 
preceilinn;  ilineiission  ar«^  eonipleteil  or  even  undertaken  by  the  ;feneial 
jnvernine.nt,  1  wiil  jjive  a  Nuinniary  of  the  portages  reiguired  m>  f;i\e  a 
(HtiitinuouH  line  of  river  navijration  from  Hnake  Kiver  lo  Di^ath  Kapids, 
the  river  remainintf  iii  its  present  eonditioii. 


8link*>  Utvpi-  to  I'?-ii'ftl  ICnpitU  

lNirtii^<>  aroiiiid  IM-irst   liApiiln 

rrit'Ht  Kn|>l(l!4  toraliiiii't  UapiilH 

rorta^t'  iii-«)iit)il  (Jiiliiiuit  and  Kof'k  IhIauiI  KApiilH  

litwV  iHlaiitl  KapidA  t<»  FoMti^r  (-'iTok  KapiilH 

INirtAjri-  Hniiind  Fimti-r  (?i-fek  and  tiir  lapldfl  of  Ch(i  KnApllt^ni  (lanon  to  Hnh' 

kill   Uapidn 

Mahkin  HapidH  Ui  (iraiid  Rupida 

I'orta^i'  f'n>lii  <iraiid  Itapida  to  almvo  Littlo  l)lUl(>n  

Lilllc  DallcHlii  Ooatli  Uapidn 


Ill  the  inontliH  of  February  and  March,  1880,  Capt.  Alfred  T.  Ping- 
Htone,  of  the  Oregon  Railway  and  Naviffation  Onnpany,  examined  the 
Cohnnbia  from  Kettle  Fal!.*  U>  the  Hnakt^  River.  His  examination  was 
..liMle  at  a  very  low  stafje  o!"  water,  which  must  a(M!oiint  partially  t'nr  the 
ditt'eriMiee  in  the  diw^criptions  «)f  rapids,  &c.,  as  y^iven  in  his  report  an<l  in 
this.  (Captain  IMnt;stone  is  ajtraetieal  steamboat  man  and  his  opinions 
ai-e  entitled  to  gr>'at  weiglit. 


CAPTAIN  PINiJ.HTONKVS  UKPOKT  (HXTUACT). 

IMPROVKMKNTS  NECK8SABY    TO    INHUBiO   OOOD  STiHiAMIJOATrNCJ. 

Pioeeediii};  np  the  (\»lniid)ia  from  Ainswinth  until  Priest  Itajiids 
are  reaeheil,  the  river  is  in  an  <!xcelleiit  b(»atin{j  eondition  diirinf;  the 
open  season  of  the  year;  and  by  ma!%in^  an  eiisy  iMirta^et  of  seven  miles 


■'Tir^-! 


■r^iPTn-fr 


CiH  COLUMBIA    RIVER. 

around  tlieHO  iai)i<lM,  an  *>«|nitl)y  navipiblw  river  In  IkmI  for  fift.y  iiiileM  to 
Itork  Island  Hapids. 

At  lt<K!k  Island  RapidN,  by  making  a  poitaf^e  of  cigbt  miles,  a  cloar 
riv'ur  to  the  riioiitli  of  tbe  ()kina<;an,  a  dtMtanc<^  of  seventy-seven  nuIuD, 
wonid  be  (dttaiiied.  Tlie<*e  two  |M»rtajj{e»  would  give  excellent  navipi- 
tioii  tit  ail  start's  of  water. 

r.y  making  another  portajjc  of  seven  miles  from  the  Okiiiaj^an  to  the 
bead  of  lyifion  (no  name)  tbe  river  woidd  be  equally  navigable  to  Hell 
(iat<',  twenty  miles  below  the  mouth  of  tbe  Hpokane. 

At  Nell  Gate,  navigation  woidd  be  doubtful  at  i:  high  stage  of  water; 
but  foi  tiie  proper  kind  of  a  .steaud»oat  it  would  ht'  good  for  two  third.s 
of  the  Beason.  Hhould  i  Ite  deemed  lulvisable  to  construct  a  imrtage 
road  there,  one  about  a  mile  long  could  easily  be  laid  over  atlat  bench 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  river. 

The  bone  that  wuuhl  go  throu.<.;li  Hell  Gate  at  a  medium  stnge  of  water, 
would  go  through  to  (Iniixl  Hapids,  a  <list;iuee  of  ninety  miles  above. 

I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that,  with  the  portagi's  named,  aslretch 
of  riv«r  4.'W  miles  long  (from  Wallula  to  (traiid  l{aj)ids)  would  be  thrown 
open  to  regular  steamboat  tratiic  that  would  Ix  far  better  than  Hnake 
Uiver  at  even  a  mo<b'rately  low  stage  of  water. 

In  brief,  the  improvements  necessary  are: 

Mii™. 

A  itiii(un<- ;i!    )'rii':<t  UiiiiidH  of 7 

A  |ii)i-|aK<'  itt  Rock  IhIuikI  l{a|iiilH  of H 

A  |Mirtii|;«  from  the  Okiiiitxaii  to  Hull  Uatc  of 7 

82 

And  )icihhIIiI,v  lit.  I  It'll  (^iikti'  it  |H)rlaK<<  of 1 

For  deseiiptions  at  these  various  rapids  see  diary. 


FROM  AINSWCIRTH  TO  KETTLE  FALLS. 

My  the  use  of  lines  at  a  medium  stage  of  water,  a  boat  coulil  be  tiikeii 
fr<uu  Ainswortli  to  Kettle  Falls.  Some  risk  would  attend  upon  siuili  an 
enterprise;  all  would  not  Ir«  clear  work ;  but  witli  care  uid  moderate 
gofid  lui'k  the  feat  could  be  |K',rfornied  without  serious  loss  or  daintige. 


FROM   GRAND   TO   DKATH   UAPID.S.  ,  ,  ■) 

As  will  be  seen  by  the  table  of  distaiu'es  iiisi  rted  below,  tlie  eonstrne- 
tion  of  the  portages  already  suggested  would  give  a  navigable  river  for 
427  mili's  above  Walluia.  T  will  stat'-  further  that  by  the  (ioustruction 
of  M  portage  six  or  seven  miles  in  length  around  (iraud  Kapids  and 
Kettle  Falls,  a  clear  river  up  stream  for  tweiity-fnur  miles  coidd  be  ob 
tained  aiul  a  portage — which  wmdd  iu)t  be  nc(!essaiy  tit  a  medium  stage 
of  water — ol  a  little  over  a  luile  at  the  Dalles  would  iiisun^  good  inivi- 
gaticm  to  DeaMi  Rapids,  a  distance  of  2.S()  miles  further  north.  1  know 
this  fnuu  having  uavigitted  it  with  the  steamer  ''4!)."       ,*•.-,  , 


COLUMniA    RIVKU  G9 

•    .;  i  •'  ,  ,     ,j  IHMittiot*. 

[  Down  Htrpani.  ] 

MlltM. 

From  Fort  Colvi.;«  to  iiioiitli  of  S|Hikaii« 7(i 

From  S|MikaMo  to  Hell  Outc  'JO 

From  1  It'll  (iiitc  to  lii'iiil  of  oarioii    H(l 

Fl>(lll  llciul  to  moil  III  i>f  riirioii Vi 

From  caftoii  to  moiitli  of  Oklnii^nii  1'.' 

From  (IkiniiKiiii  to  t'lu'liiii '.H 

From  Clu'jjtn  to  lii'uil  of  Kovk  InIiukI  KiipiiU 'tr> 

From  Kock   I»liiml  tliroii);li  bud  wntt'r H 

From  (ll<'ln■<^  to  lii'iid  of  l'rli'nt  Uitpidi fiO 

From  lii'iiil  Jo  foot  of  I'rIcHt  KapIdH !l 

From  f<mt  of  I'rirat  Kax>idM  to  Aiiiswortli •*.• 

.;  ■  -■  ;  i'J7 

February 2H,  18S1.— Fliivinp  secured  tlic  Heivi(!osoftwo  I'end d'Oreillc 
IiidiiMis,  one  ol'  wlioiii,  tweiit)  yeaiH  Uj^o,  Imil  iiiade  tlie  ti'i|i  down  tlie 
river  when  in  tlio  employ  of  the  IIiid.son  Hay  Oonipany,  we  Uift  KettU^ 
Fiilln  in  Ji  bireh-hiuk  <;tinoe,  which  was  about  twenty  ft vc  t'cit  huifi  and 
weifjlied  eighty  pounils.  Kettle  Falls  are  distant  from  Fort  Uolville 
about  ftfteen  miles.  They  are  the  most  serious  obstruction  to  navij^a- 
tion  on  this  ))art  of  the  Columbia,  being  a  per]K'ndi(;nlar  liili  ol  about 
twenty  feet  at  low  water.  We  eii>barked  in  the  morning  at  about  ileven 
o'clock,  and  proceeded  thence  down  the  river  for  about  live  miles,  when 
w»  arrived  at  (inind  Itapids.  The  river  is  now  at  dead  low  water. 
The^e  rapids  are  about  one  and  a  half  miles  in  length  and  have  three 
riflles.  The  upper  and  lower  ones  could  be  run  by  boats  either  uji  or 
down  stream  without  the  use  of  lines,  but  the  iitiddie  rapid  li.is  a  fall 
of  about  sevcH  feet.  It  could  Im  run  at  high  water  with  a  limn.  This 
wotdd  be  a  proper  landing  for  Fort  Colville.  We  made  a  portage 
around  the  rapid  of  about  one  hundred  yards,  and  camped  just  below 
(fraud  Ua]>ids  for  the  night. 

March  1.— I^ft  foot  of  Grand  Rapids  at  8:20.  Three  miles  IhI-  w 
Kickey's  Bar  there  is  a  high  bench  of  rocks  on  the  right  bank  of  ,''!■ 
river  coming  down.  These  rocks  an;  in  the  bend  of  th(^  river  and  woi.!«i 
form  an  island  at  high-water  with  the  channel  on  either  side.  It  would 
l>e  no  obstruction  to  iiaviKatioii.  On  Rickey's  J5ar  there  is  sonic  drift,  and 
a  few  trees  standing.  Four  miles  below  that,  opposite  what  is  called  t  he 
."  Five  thousand  dollarelaini,"  there  is  a  luyivy  rajtid — very  strong  wat«'r — 
with  lu'd-riH-k  sticking  upon  both  sides  of  the  river;  best  channel  at  the 
head  of  rajjid  is  in  middle  of  river,  thence  tlown  left  bank  aiidat  the  foot 
to  the  right  bank.  The  river  is  then  gotnl  to  Rogers"  Itar,  alxtnt  thirty 
miles  l)elow.  Shoal  rilHe  at  Rogers'  Ihir.  .hist  below  Rogers'  Har  there 
TN  a  large  island  of  rocks,  also  a  riOle  running  partway  acrross,  but  a 
gn<Nlsteaini>oat channel  there,  lielow, about  six  miles,  there  is  another 
bench  of  r.icks  with  channel  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.    Thiitc  miles 


My4^ 


70 


COLUMllIA    BIVEK. 


1m»1ow  tlmtiH  anollu'rlMMicli  of  nxskn  in  tli»^  middle  of  the  rivor;  straight 
(;ImiincI  ahoiit  a  hiiiitlred  feet  wide  on  right  tmnk.  1'hcreiKiig4MMl  C4mn- 
try  iiliHi;;  t lie  Cohiinhia  from  (.'olville  to  thin  point,  large  HatK  and  valU'js 
running  into  the  river.  IV.wM  of  Itogers'  Har  there  is  a  Hettlcnient  of 
eight  or  ten  t'aniili<>s  witii  ])i'oiiii.si-d  mhlition.s  from  outside  this  Kpriug. 
From  tliis  point  to  Spo]<ane  Kivertliere  in  but  little  goo<l  land  along  (he 
(Jolnnihia.  There  are  many  bars  with  (jnitea  nnmlH^r  of  Chinamen  min- 
ing upon  them.  The  river  huH  many  swift  rapids  in  it,  but  nime  that  a 
powerful  boat  eould  not  make.  W^  eauipetl  eight  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Spokane  River. 

Miinh  2. — iH'ft  camp  at  seven  a.  m.  Uiver  very  crooked;  very  swift ; 
many  lionvy  rapids;  mountains  high  and  close  in  on  the  river,  and 
heavily  timbered.  Saw  a  good  many  Chinamen  mining  on  th«'  bars. 
Arrived  at  H]iokane,  fliveratnine  a.  m.,aud  went  upand  tiMik  :.  look  at 
the  new  United  States  post.  The  Spokaiu>  is  not  navigable,  bnt  dis- 
charges considerable  water.  There  is  an  much  water  in  it  iw  in  the  John 
Day.  The  "  post"  is  located  on  the  south  side  of  the  Spokane  alMut  2 
miles  from  its  nuiuth.  There  are  three  comimnie>(  st-ationed  there.  The 
location  is  go(Hl;  it  is  on  high  table  laud,  surrounded  by  scattering  pine 
tind>er.  Wa**  inforine<l  there  that  the  country  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
was  settling  up  fast,  an<l  that  it  would  sii|>port  a  large  irapulation. 
Arrived  l)ack  at  the  canoe  at  about  three  p.  m. 

Innm'diately  above  the  mouth  of  the  Siwkane  is  a  strong  ni]>id.  The 
river  (Columbia)  at  thisiwiiit  num  between  two  bars  covered  with  very 
larg(*  bowlders.  The  channel  is  straight;  current  very  swift.  It  would 
b(t  all  a  boat  could  do  to  sU'm  it  at  high- water,  but  by  the  use  <»f  line«  for 
one  hundre<l  yards  she  could  make  it.  The  river  from  this  {"oint  down  t«) 
Virginia  IMlls,  a  <listanceof  ftv»!  miles,  is  yery  rapid.  There  are  high  mll- 
ing  hills  on  the  left,  and  mouiitains  on  the  right.  We  camiK'd  five  miles 
l>elow  the  mouth  of  the  Spokane. 

Manh  '.i.  Lell  ("amp  at  seven  a.  m.  Paddled  the  first  fourteen  miles 
through  a  canon.  Theriver  is  good — not  more  than  a  four-mile  current. 
Mountains  very  high  and  rocky.  In  many  plai-es  the  walls  of  iwks  ju-e 
from  r»()()  to  1,(HK)  feet  in  heiglit,  rising  iierpendicularly  from  the  river. 
There  issonie  mining  carried  on  upon  what  few  bars  t  here  are  in  the  c^iilon. 
At  nine  a.m.  we  arrived  at  llell  (late.  Herr  i  lie  channel  makes  aiiomplete 
8.  A  l»oat  ••onid  go  through  it  now,  but  it  looks  iw  though  it  would  l»e  » 
rough  1  ilace  during  high  water.  There  are  two  big  islands  of  r<R',ks  in  the 
river  a  hnndred  feet  high  at  this  stage  of  water ;  a  boat  could  get  cither 
up  or  down.  A  .piarter  of  a  mile  l)elow  Hell  (late  a  reef  of  ro«  ks  nnm 
nearly  across  tie  river.  The  channelis  on  the  right  bank.  From  thence 
on  down  to  a  mile  below  mouth  of  Sam  I'oo-el  [Sans  PoilJ  Ci-eek,  which 
conies  in  from  tl'e  right  bank;  the  water  is  strong.  Up  toean-oing  ground 
{(bur  miles  be'.iw  Sam  Poo  el)  the  river  Wivs  goo«l.  Tlie  timlH'r  extends 
twenty  mile^  below  the  mouth  of  the  Spokane  lliver.  The  hills  along 
the  l!olumbia  in  the  vicinity  of  this  creek  are  much  lower  than  alwve; 


COLI'MIUA    UIVKK. 


71 


but  till  ru  In  iioi  iniitli  pNxl  tariniii);  liiiid  in  Ni^lit.  Tlic  iouiitr,v  l<H)kN 
barren.    N»  timber  in  view. 

March  4. — LcCt  ciiinp  at  sovcii  ii.  id.  TIu'  iiioiiiitaiiis  closi'  in  on  llit^ 
river.  Current  very  swift — from  live  to  seven  iiiih-s  per  hour.  'l\'n  miles 
below  theNes])ilem  tliennsab.ul  riipi(|  in  tliebeiid  of  tlie  river.  Itoats 
could  not  aseeiiil  without  tlie  use  of  a  line  iit  tliis  staj;«<  of  water  for  at  li^ast 
two  liniitlred  feet.  From  tlienee  on  ilowii  to  the  liead  of  the  canon  the 
river  is  very  rapid — liiijhblutfsonoiieHide,  liij^li  bowlder  bar  on  the  other. 
For  two  miles  down  from  head  of  canon  itis(;ood  steamlioatint;.  Ili^di 
hills  of  rocks  extend  on  both  side.--,  of  the  river  Ibro'.era  mile.  You  could 
gvi  a  boat  tlirouf;'li  this  cafKni,  but  it  would  not  do  to  make  a  business 
of  running  it;  there  would  have  t«»  lie  a  portage  here.  There  is  a  ijood 
lo<;atioii  for  a  porta;^'e  road  on  the  rijL;lit  bank  of  the  river;  it  could  be  run 
uerosH abend, and  •  •  •  it  is  twehe  mile^npriv.  'roiii  the  Okinapui 
to  the  foot  of  the  canon.  The  roa<l  would  have  to  t  ave  the  riveia  mile 
above  FortOkinapiii  and  cut  across  the  conn  try,  si  rikiii^;  the  river  at  tlio 
head  of  the  canon — a  distance  of  about  seven  miles — easy  f^radc  over 
bunch-grass  hills — no  timber.  FortOkinaf-an  was  formerly  an  importv'it 
post  of  the  Hudson  I5ay  ('Oiiipany,butis  now  abandoned.  The,  Oki"  ,:in 
uiiUm's  the  (Join labia  from  the  right  b»!<!<,  ttut, although  a  lai'g(« stream,  is 
not  navigable  for  steamboats  iixcept  at  high  wati'r,  and  then  only  to 
Osooyoos  Lake,  sevenly-tiyc  miles  distant  from  (Jolumbia  liiver,  hicatud 
in  British  Columltia. 

March  .'). — Left  caiiiit  at  mouth  of  Okinagau  at  seven  a.  in.  Arrived  at 
month  of  ('lielan  River  at  eleven  a.  m.,  distant  thirty  two  miles,  with  only 
three  rapids  in  that  distance.  One  is  about  live  miles  below  the  Okinagan 
in  the  bend  of  the  river.  Another  rai»id  is  located  below  the  mouth  id" 
theMethow  Hiver;  good  enough  Hteamboatiiig;  bigro(!kson  bothsidt^s; 
Home  in  the  river;  water  very  sv  itt.  There  is  another  rapid  about  t<!ii 
miles  above  the  Weiiatehee — shoal  water,  bars  and  roisks.  A  few  miles 
below  Chelan  there  is  plenty  of  timber  for  wood.  Therc^  are  a  good 
many  pine  flats  along  this  part^  of  the  river  that  will  be  good  forsettle- 
uieut.  Camped  ten  miles  abovc^  mouth  (d  Weiiatehee.  The  river  1  iiave 
pa+'seii  over  to-day  is  in  ev(>ry  way  suitaule  for  steainboatiiig. 

March  0. — Ii«*ft  t;ainp  at  7:10  a.  m.  The  river  was  good  to  the  hoiwl  of 
Rock  Island,  a  distance  of  twenty  milei*.  The  bml  water  (rommenees 
about  three  miles  above  what  is  '  .dle<I  Rock  Island.  The  VVenalrhee 
Itiver  empties  in  from  the  right  bank,  and  is  a  large  body  of  water,  but 
not  navigable.  R<M;k  Island  Rajiids,  socalletl,  isre  located  in  a  cafion  t\M> 
miles  in  length.  This  canon  cont;4iins  inan.\  rocky  islands.  Tiiere  is  one 
which  rises  from  the  river  to  the  height  of  a  hundred  feet.  This  (^afioM 
would  be  a  rough  place  for  a  boat  to  get  through  during  liigli-wati-r,  but 
during  an  ordinary  stage  i^  innigable.  For  two  inile«  (between  the 
canon  and  It4iek  Island  proper)  there  isagO(Mlriver.  Rim  k  Island  Rap- 
ids projier  are  not  navigable  at  this  stage  of  water.  Boat«  may  be  taken 
up  or  duwu  at  a  high  iituge  oi  water — but  always  at  griuit  link  to  the 


1 


72 


COLUMBIA    RIVEB. 


)H)iitH.  TiKtrn  An\  two  cliiinnvlH  -tlio  one  on  the  ri);lit  hunk  '\h  widest. 
TIk*  ii|)|H-r  fiiil  is  ^•^^'.iiv  nf  i-ix-kH,  hut  tlxt  lower  end  is  crooked  tind  full  of 
lii(;li  hid  ro<-k.  It  is  (;iit  up  in  niiiiiy  numU  ehannciN  and  ho  raitid  tluit  li 
Hteimdioat  <;onld  not  Ntuni  it  witliont  the  iMHiHtimce of  a  line.  Tlie  chan- 
nel on  the  left  hank  ends  in  two  little  falls  at  this  stajje  of  water,  hut 
it  would  he  hest  to  take  a  hoat  throU};h  at  a  little  ahoV(5  a  half  sta^o. 
Itoek  Island  «',an  uvvfi  he  snc(H'Hsfnll,v  steand)oated  in  its  itresent  condi- 
tion, hut  at  coni|)arativel,v  Hinall  (expense  can  he  made  navi^ahlo  at 
low  waitu-.  Tlu!  wat<M'  is  hiul  for  four  miles  holow  the  island.  One 
place,  partnularl.v,  is  very  naiTow,  crooked,  and  rocky,  and  has  a  fall 
of  tive  feet  in  tliret;  hundred. 

The  hest  farming; country  we  have  passed  thronKh  today  is  the  We- 
nat«;he(^  country.  1  was  told  hy  an  old  settler  that  then*  is  room  there 
for  <|uite  a  nund)er  of  |)eople.  They  are  raising  all  kinds  of  };rain  ami 
fruit  (tnun  peiuiho^)  there.  A  ^ood  many  hi<;h  hars  that  we  passed  to- 
day would  make  ^ood  fanning;  land.  On  the  mainland  tind)er  is  scarce ; 
it  is  a  hunch  {;''''''«  country.  We  camped  ahont  three  miles  helow  tjie  is- 
land. A  portaie^e  will  prohahly  Ik>.  necessary  at  this  point,  commencing 
ahout  thr«H>  miles  helow  Kock  Island  Uaiiids,  on  the  riji;ht  hank,  and 
eiulinff  in  aixtut  fc  .r  miles.  This  i)ortage  roa<l  would  ]>asH  over  a  higl" 
tiat  with  an  easy  grsule^uo  excavation  nexiessary  if  railroad  were  huilt 
there. 

March!. — Tieft  camp  at  9:15.  We  broke  our  .  anoe  yesterda.N,  and 
were  some  tinu^  in  fixing  it.  The  river  is  voiy  good  today,  l-'onnd 
only  one  rapid.  It  is  called  "  Kagle  Kajtid"  and  is  hM-atwl  alxmt  thirty 
miles  helow  Itock  Island.  It  can  be  navigat<id  hy  8teand>oats  at  all 
stages  of  water.  I  he  river  from  Eagle  to  iicad  of  Priest  Kapids  is  ex- 
cellent for  boating  purj)oses.  Wo  «^Hm|>o(l  at  I'riest  Uapids  at  six  p. 
m.  During  the  day's  run  found  high  hanks  on  either  side  the  entire 
course.     We  passed  the  months  of  two  couli'-os. 

March  -S. — Priest  Rapids  ar*'  about  nine  miles  in  length.  They  are 
sitUHtvd  in  a  semicircular  K><id  of  the  river.  There  are  five  raj)ids  in  all 
from  the  upper  to  the  K^wer,  inclusive.  The  water  is  very  swill,  but 
the  two  rifHes  at  the  hea-d  are  the  worst.  There  is  a  stretch  of  li\  (i  miles 
of  good  water  between  the  middle  and  lower  rittles.  The  latter  are  full 
of  reefs  and  bowlders. 

By  the  use  of  a  line  at  a  nnddle  stage  of  wafitt',  a  st(i)tl|l|Mttll  li0(lll) 
1m)  taken  over.  A  portage  road  across  the  ln^nil  over  a  lliif  liiil  oil  Hie 
left  hank  of  the  river  wiuihl  he  about  seven  miles — not  to  exc-eed  that. 
There  is  plenty  of  drift  wood  a*,  the  head  of  rajtids.  We  niii  tlie  Iii|||i|h 
with  (Hir  hark  uaiioe,  and  (tamped  at  Uinggold  iliir,  about  forty  iiiileH 
from  the  uunitli  of  Hiiake  lUvei.  lilxcellent  steauibonting  rroiii  Priest 
Itapids  at  all  stages  of  uater.  Ooiintiy  on  both  sides  of  ri\ei,  high 
plaleiius.  t)u  left  bank,  high  "white  hlutt's"  rising  180  to  2  (I  feel ;  on 
the  right,  a  large  Hat  plateau  of  hunch  grass  uuuntry.  Think  it  is  good 
land. 

M.iwch  0.— Loll  camp  at  seven  a.  w.    'i'Uo  viVPf  U'oju  Ue^;}3  \tO  f^putb  of 


COMTMHIA    KIVEK. 


73 


8ii  iko  Hivcr  i8  flxct'lhiiit  at  lill  Ntitpu*  of  wiitAT  for  Ht<MiiiilH>iiliii^.  \Vti 
iirrivod  at  Aiiiswortli  tit  twttlvo  in.,  our  Joiirncy  oikIimI.  I  procoisliul  t<i 
I'Di'tliitid,  titkiii^  till'  iMiiof  wliicli  Hii  Hsit't'ly  lia.s  airrii'il  im  t<>  our  iU'm- 
tiiiation,  wliiln  iii.v  two  Imlitiii  coinimiiioiis  leiivc  for  Fort  C.'olvillo  ovi-r 
luiul,  11  (liMtiviiir,  of210  iiiik'H. 
Very  n^siiect fully, 

"      ,.         ALFUKI)  T.  riNlSHTONK. 


■-■;;- r  CIIAPTKIl    VII. 

UKSERAh  nKSCRll'TlON  OF  THE  COLl'MIIU  AND  ITS  TRIRVTARIES. 

Ill  Mi«  eiirly  ilovolopnicnt  of  a  country  itn  navifjablo  ri\ciM  jiiay  a 
vory  iiii|iortant  part,  funiiNliin;;  natural  lii;;liwayN  for  travel  ami  tnMie, 
and  liaNcsof  opiM-ations  from  wiiicli  tlie  iMlventiirouH  pioneer  ain  extend 
liJH  reNCiirelies  aftijr  the  unknown  attractioimof  tlie  wilderiiesM,  Astlio 
popiilat'.iii  and  produetions  of  the  coiintry  incre^ise,  and  railroadN  are 
built  XI  every  dii-ee/tioii, these  artiticial  liiieH  of  eoininunieatioii  make  the 
natural  river  lines  of  less  relative  importance.  [ii  the  full  and  coin- 
plete  development,  however,  these  water  liiu^s  fiirniNli  tran«iMHtatioii 
for  all  the  slow  freij^ht  and  surplus  prmliietions,  and  iM',t  as  a  regulator 
upon  all  of  the  internal  eominereo  of  the  country.  Their  ^fieat  value  in 
this  respeot  cannot  lie  overestimated,  and  the  general  government  inis 
for  iiiiiny  years  shown  its  wisdom  by  o]ieiiing  up  and  freeing  from  oli 
strnetioiis  the  natural  water-courses  within  its  domain  as  fast  lus  tliey 
are  reipiircd  by  the  demands  of  commerce. 

The  great  country  drained  by  the  (Joliimbia  Uiver  is  still  in  its  in- 
fancy, and  it  is  the  (;lierislu>d  scheme  of  all  who  are  alive  to  its  best  in- 
terests to  see  tlie  whole  river,  or  as  mucb  of  it  as  is  priwitieable,  iipeii 
to  free  navigation,  and  the  healthful  competition  which  would  grow 
therefrom. 

In  these  pages  I  have  aihled  as  much  as  I  am  abU^  to  the  knowledge 
of  the  river  and  the  conntry  dr.iined  by  it,  and  trust  that  it  will  be  use- 
ful in  any  ettbrt  that  may  Ixj  made  to  secure  the  free  navigation  of  the 
whole  of  it,  or  at  least  of  a  very  large  jiortion. 

Knteriiig  the  I'a<'ific  Ocean  near  the  forty  sixth  degree  of  latitude, 
this  river  forms  a  great  arm  of  the  ocean,  n\>  which  st^a  going  vessels 
can  go  for  one  hundred  miles  and  iikhc  to  the  fiKit  hills  of  the  gn'at  range 
of  mountains  whose  snow-elad  summit  peaks  can  Ix;  seen  by  the  sailor 
as  lie  nenrs  tlii'  foaming  breakers  at  the  river's  mouth. 

Tde  Coluiiibia  by  means  of  its  tributaries  drains  the  western  slopi^ 
of  the  Hoik.v   Mountains,  from  about  the  forty-second  to  the  Htty  third 
piirallel  of  north  latitude,  a  distance  of  about  U04J  miles,  and  has  a  drain- 
Bge  basin  aggregating  almost  2i5,000  square  miles. 
a.  Ex.  18(i 10 


If  I 
It  I 


74  COLUMUIA    lUVKK. 

Th*^  rollo\viiiKtii)>loKivi'^tliu  aruiiH  (IraiiHHl  in  tliu  tliHuruiil  HUiLoHund 
Ti'iTiUuiiiM  by  tbo  iiiomI  iiapurtant  tiibitUdoM:  >= 

DHAINAOR   AHKAH. 

Or<'K"" : 

WilluiiKtttit  (mill  Coliimliialwlow  immtli  iif  WillmiiotU)) K,*m 

DrMCImt.H 10,000 

.loliii  l>»y,  Willow  Crwk,  uml  W»Ila  Wiillo  12,(MK» 

Hiiukc  Uivor IT.VOO 

WiiHliiiiH'oii  'IVrridiry: 

Norlli  »iilo  ('i)lmiiliiH,  Imlnw  Hiinkn 8,  (KK) 

Colniiiliiii,  aliovti  Himkii IM),  3)'>0 

Siiako ''•,'Z'M 

Idiklio: 

Coliiiiiliiii  Kiviir 7,(>0(l 

Snuk.'  Kiv.r 70,040 

Nminlii,  Hiiiik.'  Uivor li.iWO 

Wyiiiniiij;,  Nimkii  Kivor .1,  IH4 

Ut'ali,  Hiiiikr  Kivor 7(K» 

Miiiituna,  CNiliiiiiliia  Hivcr UO,  WOO 

ItriliHli  Ciiliiiiil)ia,  Cipluiiibia  Ulvtir IIH,  ^05 

Totrtl  aroa  ilraiiiwl  by  Culiiiiibio — N<iiiaro  iiiilcH iill, 'XA) 

TliiH  i«  im  area  liir>j«ir  than  all  tlio  New  Kiijilaiitl  aiul  Miilillc  8lal<'s, 
witli  Maryliiiid,  Vii'tfiniu,  and  VVcwt  Vir},niiia  conihiuwl.  For  i»nri>o,soH 
of  coni[»aiison,  1  yive  theii'  aroas  as  taken  I'loiu  tlio  lawt  ('ensiiw  ilL'i»ort: 

.     '  8()imre  mllea. 

Maiiio :«j,000 

Nii«  llaiiijtHliiri) 9,280 

Vriiiioiit io,aia 

MaHHattliiiHotlH 7,800 

CoiiiiiMiticiit 4,750 

Khoilo  Islaml 1,;J0« 

08.348 

Nfw  York 47,000 

PoniiMylvaiiia 40,000 

Now  .iorHi>y 8,:i--J0 

Dolnwitru !i,  120 

103, 440 

Marylaml 11,  lit 

Virginia 38,348  u": 

Wost  Virginia 2;},  000 

72. 472 

Total  iHinaru  uiilos 244,200 

I  also  give  liero  for  comparison  the  areas  of  tlie  principal  European 
countries: 

S(|unr»  iiiilfH. 

Great  Hrttaiu  and  Ireland 121,230 

Franco 201,  yoo 

Germany 212,091 

A  stria  Hungary 22(),  400 

Italy 112,077 

Spain 182,758 


roMiMntA  RiVKU.  75 

TlitMlraiiiiifio  iin^aot' tlio  Coliiinltiii  may  itlw)  lor  fniivoniciicf  bo  ili 
vidrd  UM  followH: 

Si|iiiirr  lulliMi. 

Hiiakii  River li'l.tiin 

TT|i|Mir  Ooliimliiii  ulinvc  Jiiiii'tiiiii  w  llli  Siinkr...,. W.lKt 

Mitin  ('iiliiinliiii  Ih'Iiiw  Jiiiictiiui 1:1, '^Nl 

Total 'iU.mt 

At  a  distiintu'  oi;>.'<fi  inilcM  from  tlio  w>ft  \\w  miiin  rivor  Ih  fornxMl  by 
it«  two  jitv.il  briiiiolioH,  tilt'  soiitlHTn  om>  boiiijfiiow  jjoiiornlly  known  n» 
tlio  tSniikt^  and  tiio  nortliorn  as  tlic  (%>luiiibia. 

TilR  HNAKK  RIVKR. 

Tlic  Snuko  Rivortjvkosits  vimi  in  tlio  Houtliern  piirt  of  Mio  Ycllowslonn 
Niitioiml  I 'ark,  very  near  tlio  lu-adwatcrs  of  tlio  >ra<lison  I'Ntrk  «)f  tlio 
MiHNoiiri  and  tlioOriu'ii  Uivorbranoli  of  tlio  Colonulo,  tlio  loniior  flow- 
ing to  tlio  (iiilf  of  Moxioo  and  tlio  latlor  totlioliulf  off-alifoniia.  I'^roin 
it«  source  tlio  Snako  takos  a  Houtliwostorly  <u>nrso  until  it  ooiiios  within 
sixty  niiU'H  of  tlio  proHont  limits  of  tlio  (Ireat  Halt  Lako  of  Iftiili.  It  liius 
been  cUiaiiy  provon  that  this  lako,  in  tho  years  lonj,'  f,'ono  by,  wiw  very 
niuoh  larger  than  it  now  is,  oovoring  an  iininoiiso  extent  of  territory, 
and  that  it^  waters  fuiiiid  an  outlet  to  the  north  into  tho  Hnake  River 
nod  theneo  to  tho  Columbia  and  Piuiitle  Oeean.  The  outlet  of  this  an 
cient  lako  was  determined  and  its  boundaries  traced  by  a  party  of  the 
Wheeler  Survey,  who  gave  to  it  tim  name  of  Lake  Honnovilh^  after  the 
(irst  and  most  illustrious  explorer  of  this  section  of  the  (Country.  The 
giiMbial  upheaval  of  the  northern  portion  of  the  continent  lias  taken 
away  the  outlcst  and  left  the  lake  what  it  now  is. 

From  tli(^  vicinity  of  the  (ireat  Salt  Lake  the  river  takes  a  northwoHt- 
erly  course,  tlowing  through  a  treinendous  canon  in  which  are  numer- 
ous rajuds  and  falls  of  great  magnitude  and  beauty,  ranking  with  Ni- 
agara and  the  falls  of  the  Zanibesi  in  .\friea.  Tlio  ))rin(;ipal  are  the 
(Ireat  Shoshone  Falls,  the  American  Falls,  and  Salmon  Falls.  A  num- 
ber of  stroanis  flow  into  the  Snake  from  tho  lands  to  the  south  and  west 
of  its  course,  principal  among  them  beingthe  Bruneau,  Owyhee,  Malheur, 
Burnt,  Powder,  and  (Irand  Iloiide  Itivers.  Tho  main  braiuihes  froiii 
tiie  east  are  the  Mahule,  Boist'),  Payette,  Salmon,  (Jl«arwat«r.  and  l*a 
ioaae  Rivera. 

Nearly  all  the  streams  tlowing  into  tho  Snako  may  bo  cliaract«'rlzod 
;*H  mountain  torrents  Howing  through  ih'op  cafions,  entirely  unnavigablo 
and  with  voi->'  little  valley  lands  along  their  courses. 
'  Some  of  them  deserve  more  than  a  passing  mention,  especially  tho 
Salmon,  the  principal  tributary  of  the  Snake.  It  drains  a  large  extent 
of  exMintry  au<l  Joins  the  Snako  about  fifty  miles  above  Lcwiston,  and 
flows  through  probably  tho  doopest,  grandest,  and  most  impassable 
cafion  of  any  stream  of  corresponding  magnitude  in  the  world. 

Nowhere  on  earth  can  there  Ito  a  s«M3ne  iii<u'(>  grand,  gloomy,  and  doso- 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STRilT 

WEBSTIR,  N.Y.  14S80 

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76 


COLlIMniA   RIVKH. 


Into  tliiin  whero  these  two  rivnrH  Join  thoir  watorn.  Both  coino  flowing 
clown  with  torrontiiil  veloitity  tliroiigli  caiionH  3,<)00  feet  in  depth,  with 
mgged,  bliuik,  anil  utmost  vertical  Hides,  the  Riilltwhite  wators  of  the 
Snake  cotirHing  alongside  tlie  clear  bhic  Salmon  water  for  a  half  mile  or 
niofi)  hefore  they  Anally  mingle  among  the  jagged  rocks  of  the  Htupon- 
doiiH  caflon  below. 

At  liowiston  the  Clearwater  a<lds  its  waters,  and  it  is  from  this  point 
U)  its  nmnth  that  tlie  Snake  is  at  present  navigable  and  navigate<l  by 
Htoamers.  Steamers  can  pass,  however,  nearly  np  to  the  month  of  the 
(h-and  Itonde,  thirty  miles  above  Lewiston ;  but  as  there  is  nothing  to 
•tall  them  np  they  do  not  now  traverse  this  portion  of  the  river. 

A  stiMiiner  has  been  run  np  the  Snake  for  about  eighty  miles  above 
Ijowiston,  (M'-cupying  fourteen  days  in  making  the  ascp'.it,  of  which  thir- 
t4>en  were  taken  up  in  nniking  the  lust  thirty-five  miles.  The  "un  down 
was  made  in  one  day ;  I  was  once  informed  in  five  hours.  This  illustrates 
the  (!harnct«r  of  the  Snake  Uiver  for  punmses  of  navigation. 

The  I'alouse  is  the  lowest  tributary  of  the  Snake,  and,  although  not 
of  any  im]>ortanc«  oh  a  large  stream,  it  drains  an  exceedingly  fertile 
and  promising  country.  A  large  proportion  of  the  best  farming  lauds 
of  I'iiistorii  Washington  Territory  lie  along  the  Palouso  and  its  tributary 
streai:~, 

THE  UPPBB   COLUMBIA. 


The  great  rortheru  branch  which  unites  with  the  Snake  to  form  the 
main  river  is  designated  as  the  Columbia,  or  iu  coutradistiuctiou  Ui  the 
hirer  river,  as  the  Upper  Columbia. 

Amid  the  universal  gloom  and  midnight  silence  of  the  north,  a  little 
above  the  fifty-second  parallel  ol"  latitude,  seemingly  surrounded  on  'ill 
sides  by  cloud-piercing  snow-clatl  mountains,  and  nestle*!  down  iu 
among  the  lower  and  nvm:  sr  ctMlar-mantled  hills,  there  lies  a  narrow 
valley  where  three  streams  meet  and  blend  their  waters,  one  coming 
from  the  s«>utheast,  one  from  the  northwest,  and  one  from  the  east. 
The  [)rincipal  one  of  these  three  streams  is  the  one  from  the  southeast, 
which  rises  in  a  small  lake  near  the  fiftieth  parallel  of  latitude,  and 
Hows  to  the  northwest  in  a  deep  gap  between  the  main  Rocky  Mountain 
chain  on  the  oast  and  the  Selkirk  Jliuige  on  the  west,  to  the  point  of 
Junction,  an<l  is  the  headwater  stream  of,  and  bears  the  nauio  of  the 
Oohnnbia.  It  is  about  one  hundred  and  eighty  milec  long,  and  is  sivid 
t«  be  navigable  for  more  than  half  the  way. 

The  northwestern  stream  is  the  extramo  northeni  branch  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, rising  bey(Hid  the  fifty-third  parallel  of  latitude,  an<l  is  known 
among  the  fur  trailers  and  voyaijeurH  a»  Canoe  liiver,  from  the  excellence 
of  tlu)  bark  procuro«l  on  its  banks  for  canoe  building.  This  is  a  small 
river,  forty  yards  wide  at  its  nu>uth,  fiowing  through  a  densely  timbered 
valley  in  which  the  trees  overhang  the  stnutm  to  siu;h  an  extent  as 
alnuKst.  to  shut  it  out  from  tlie  light  of  heaven,  and  attain  an  enormous 


COUTMniA    RIVER. 


Tt 


ni7.o,  ]>nrticiilar1y  tho  pin«N  niul  cedars,  oiio  of  tlie  latter,  mennnrcd  by 
Alexander  IIohh,  l^cillg  forty-fivo  feet  four  incheH  in  girth  at  a  lioiglit  of 
four  fe(«t  from  the  ground. 

Portage  Kiver,  tlie  third  of  tliiH  trio  of  HtreaiuH,  the  HnialhtHt  and  the 
moat  remarkable  of  them,  is  tho  one  which  enters  from  the  tmst.  It  Iiim 
its  source  in  tho  very  he  irt  of  the  ll«M;ky  Mountains  and  flows  through 
a  tremendous  deft  in  the  main  range  between  two  of  its  loftie.st  imiks, 
Mounts  Brown  and  Hooker.  Just  underneath  tht^se  giant  mountains, 
on  the  divide  known  as  "Tiie  Height  of  Land,"  lie  two  small  lakes,  each 
ab<Hit  thirty  yards  in  diameter,  and  which  are  only  a  fewyiirds  fnun  mwU 
other.  One  hits  itA  outlet  Ut  the  west,  Portag(«  River,  tlowing  to  the 
Columbia;  the  other  has  its  outlet  to  the  east,  Whirl|MMil  River,  a  briineli 
of  the  Athabasca,  which  Joins  the  Mackenzie  and  tlows  to  the  Arctic 
Uce4Ui. 

The  'Elevated  valley  iu  which  these  lakes  are  situate*!  is  e^illetl  the 
(Committee's  Punch  Howl,  and  the  nabobs  of  the  fur  trade  always  treated 
their  c^unpanions  to  a  bucket  of  punch  when  this  place  was  r(^a<died,  if 
they  hail  the  ingro<Iient«  of  which  to  make  it,  and  they  usually  had. 

The  ]>ass  across  thfe  mountains  by  the  I'ortage  River,  the  Commi^tet^'.s 
Punch  Howl,  and  \Vhirl]>ooI  River,  known  as  the  Athabasc^v  VtisH,  was 
for  many  years  the  prine'',)al  route  of  the  Hritish  fur  triulers  in  going 
fVom  one  side  cf  the  Rocky  Moutitains  to  the  other.  This  route  is  far 
from  l)eing  an  easy  one,  and  a  <lescri]ttion  of  the  diftleulties,  dangers, 
and  discomforts  attendent  upon  a  trip  over  it  will  iM^rtainly  det4T  any 
one  fi-om  making  the  Journey  for  pleasure.  A  grtiat  i)art  of  the  way  the 
traveler  has  to  wmle  up  to  his  niiddle  iu  the  icy  waters  of  the  Portage 
River.  The  Journey  ha«1  to  l>e  made  in  the  spring  l>etore  the  summer 
thaws  and  rains  set  in,  or  in  the  autumn  after  severe  cold  weather  had 
liN;k(Ml  up  the  uumntAin  drainage.  During  the  summer  tli<;  stream  Ite- 
coniea  an  impetuous  impassable  UKmntAin  torrent  Alexander  Itoss, 
after  making  the  Journey  from  the  C'oluuibia  to  the  Athabasca,  thus 
pictures  tho  delights  of  the  Journey  up  Portage  Riv^^r; 

Let  tli«  ran<li<r  picture  in  liin  own  niiiiil  n  ilurlc,  niirniw  (li<H1i%  Hkirtml  nn  oiia  Niilnliy 
n  oliitin  of  inso^flwible  inoiintRinR  riitiiit(  to  »  great  liniKlit,  voviiriMl  widi  khow,  iiml 
Hli|>|i«ry  witli  ice  rroin  tlioir  tops  ilowu  to  tho  water'H  v:\m', ;  miil  on  iIdi  otiivr  niiIc  it 
ImaiJieniiipamlivclyluw,  InitHtmliled  ill  an  irn!giilui' iiiaiiiKT  witli  Htaniliiit;  ami  I'alli'n 
trw'H,  rocks,  and  ici>,  ami  full  of  drift-wood,  over  .,  liich  the  tonviil  everywhere  rimlicH 
with  HUch  irreoiHlilde  inipetnoHity  that  very  few  wnnld  dare  to  ndviMitnn-  IhcniwlvcH 
ill  tlie  Htreikin.  Let  hlin  again  imagine  a  rapid  river  deHcemlini;  fr<mi  Rome  i;reat 
height,  lining  up  the  whole  ohannel  between  the  iticky  previpii^eii  on  the  Hoiith,  and 
the  no  U'HH  dnngeroiiH  harrier  on  the  north  ;  and  laHtly,  let  lilin  ciipikhm!  that  we  were 
obliged  to  inakeonr  way  on  foot  agaiiiHt  Hiich  a  torrent,  by  uroiwing  and  riH'roHMing  it 
in  all  ittt  tuniH  and  windingn,  fmin  inoniiiig  till  night,  up  to  the  middle  in  water,  and 
ho  will  undumtAml  the difflenltieii  t'O  lie  overcome  in  cniming  the  Kocky  MonntainH. 

The  Junction  of  tho  thrett  streams  above  alluded  to  is  known  as  Hoat 
Encampment.  From  this  point  the  Columbia  tlows  nearly  due  south  for 
alnmt  four  IiuFidrod  miles,  to  whei'e  it  makes  its  great  liend  \o  the  west 
at  the  mouth  ul  tho  S|H)kanfa  River. 


78 


COLtTMBIA    RIVER. 


Ilii;^. 


For  tlio  tint  ono  hiindrod  and  fifty  mileH  of  itH  oonroo  it  flows,  us  a 
))r(^nnm1  tliitif;,  Miroiiffli  a  deep  ciifion,  closely  slint  in  on  ea<;h  side  by 
towering  mounttuns  so  near  to  cucli  otlier  as  t-j  conflFie  the  \iow  to  the 
WMilty  lioiglits  on  each  side  and  the  sky  abcve.  Numltcrs  of  anial!  streams 
(ionio  into  the  main  river  fh)ni  the  ea^^t  and  west,  and  generally  their 
waters  come  in  over  some  towering  cliff  in  the  form  of  a  cataract,  Bonio 
of  wliich  are  very  onrions  and  beantifnl.  One,  coming  into  the  river 
Just  almvo  the  Dalle*  de»  VorU,  is  described  by  a  visitor*  as  follows: 

A  littlo  after  atnrting  wo  bnckwl  our  paddles  mid  ataod  atill  for  Homo  niiniitcg  nd- 
niiriiift  n  ntrikiiiK  iiatnrnl  onrfoHity  on  the  oast  aide.  The  wator  of  a  cataract  crook, 
aft4tr  alio<itiii){  over  the  brink  of  a  bold  precipioo,  falls  in  a  white  ahoot  on  to  a  bn^ml 
Hat  rock,  KOiooth  as  glaiia,  which  forms  the  first  step ;  then  upon  a  second,  sonio  t«n 
funt  lower  duwn,  and  lastly,  on  n  third,  somewhat  lower.  It  then  entttra  a  snbtorra- 
iioouH  vault,  formed  at  tho  niiuith  llko  a  funnel,  and  after  passing  thrbutjhthis  funnel 
it.  ncniu  imnoN  forth  with  a  noise  of  diatant  tlinudor.  After  falling  over  another 
st<>p  it  uiootx  the  fVont  of  a  Imld  rock,  which  repulses  back  the  water  with  such  vio- 
lence as  to  keep  it  whirling  round  in  a  large  basin.  Opposite  to  this  rises  tho  wing  of 
a  shelving  cliif,  which  overhanpi  tho  basin  and  forces  back  the  rising  spray,  refract- 
ing in  the  sunsliinoall  the  colors  of  the  rainbow.    The  crook  then  enters  tho  Coluhibia. 

Numerous  islands  exist  in  the  river,  some  of  them  remarkable  for 
Iteing  formiu.  almost,  if  not  entirely,  Arom  drift-wood,  compressed  by 
the  force  of  the  current  so  closelv  vad.  solidly  together  that  it  seems  to 
have  iMHsn  laid  in  tiers  w  by  liio  hand  of  man.  Tho  Selkirk  Range, 
whose  Jagged,  craggy  peaks  are  li-om  7,000  to  0,000  feet  high,  lies  to  tho 
east  of  the  river.  To  tho  west  lies  the  low  Oold  Range  from  2,000  to 
6,000  feet  high,  and  beyond  this  and  between  it  and  the  Okinakane  and 
the  Thompson  liivers  the  country  is  generally  rolling  and  covered  with 
bunch  grass. 

At  a  distance  of  about  seventy  miles  fh)m  Boat  Encampment  there  is 
a  very  Lad  system  of  rapids,  known  to  tho  vot/ageur$  as  the  J)allat  des 
Mort«.  They  are  about  two  miles  long  from  end  to  end.  Many  a  iH>or 
fellow  has  closc<l  his  earthly  career  by  intnisting  himself  in  their 
tHMuthcriMis  wati^ra,  and  a  numl»cr  of  solitary  graves  are  hero  to  l)e  seen, 
and  names  of  victims  never  found  are  carved  on  tho  surrounding  rocks. 

At  a  distance  of  alraut  twenty-three  miles  ftom  the  Dalles  des  Morts, 
down  the  river,  there  is  a  remarkable  height  on  the  east  side  of  tho 
river,  partly  covered  with  snow  and  partly  with  numerous* towering 
rocks,'  broken  fragments,  peaks,  and  serrated  ranges,  resembling  tho 
turrets,  domes,  spires,  and  steeples  of  a  city  in  ruins.  Tho  mist  hanging 
over  the  place  atids  to  (he  deception,  and  the  longer  this  City  of  Rocks 
is  li>oke<1  at  the  more  complete  becomes  the  illusion. 

Twenty-two  miles  lielow  the  City  of  Rocks  are  the  Little  Dalles,  or 
Narrows,  where  for  about  a  mile  the  river  is  almost  completely  shut  in 
by  mountains  and  rocks.  This  is  passable  by  steamers,  however,  while 
at  tho  Dalles  dtts  Morts  steamers  are  I'.nabio  to  ascend. 

Along  this  imrtion  of  the  river  there  occurred  in  the  year  1817  ono  of 

'Unas. 


!  if: 


COLUMBIA   BIVEU. 


79 


those  turriblo  upiHodoH  of  froutior  life,  at  the  thought  of  whiuh  tho  huurt 
turiiH  Hick.  On  the  Itith  of  April  of  this  year,  a  party  of  twoiity-tliivu 
moil  loft  Fort  George,  now  Astoria,  tu  ascend  the  Columbia  <inil  cross 
the  Itooky  Modut'uits  by  the  Athabasca  Pass.  On  tho  liTth  of  May 
they  aiTivetl  at  the  mouth  of  tho  Portage  Itiver,  or  Boat  Eucami)uiout, 
after  the  most  severe  labors  and  exposure  in  dragging  their  (tanoes 
up  tho  rapids  and  making  their  way  along  the  rocky  shores.  Seven 
men  of  the  party  were  so  weak,  sick,  and  worn  out,  that  they  were  un- 
able to  proceed  across  the  mountains,  so  they  were  given  the  best  canoe 
and  some  provisions  and  sent  back  down  the  river  to  Si)okane  House. 
After  leaving  the  liocky  Mountains  they  went  rapidly  down  tho  river 
until  the  Dalles  des  Morts  were  reached.  Here,  in  passing  their  luiat 
down  over  the  rapids  by  a  lire,  it  was  caught  in  a  whirli^ool  and  the 
line  snapited,  and  the  boat  and  all  its  contents  of  provisione,  blankets, 
&o.,  was  irrevocably  lost.  Here  the  poor  fellows  found  themselves 
utterly  destitute,  and  at  a  season  of  tho  year  when  it  was  impossible  to 
procure  !Viiy  wild  fruit  or  roots.  The  continual  rising  of  the  water  (!om- 
pletely  inundated  tho  bewih,  which  com))elled  them  to  force  their  way 
through  a  dense  forest,  rendered  almost  impervious  by  a  thick  growth 
of  prickly  underbrush.  Their  only  nourishment  was  water.  On  the 
thiiil  day  Ma^on  died,  and  his  surviving  comrades,  though  unconscious 
how  soon  they  might  Iw  called  on  to  follow  him,  divided  his  remains 
into  espial  parts,  on  which  they  subsisted  for  several  days.  From  the 
sore  and  swollen  state  of  their  feet,  :  iieir  daily  progress  did  not  exceed 
two  or  three  miles.  Holmes,  the  tailor,  shortly  followeil  M*iyon,  and  tliey 
continued  for  some  time  longer  to  sustain  life  on  his  emiusiated  Ixxly. 
In  a  little  while  of  the  seven  men  only  two  remained  alive,  Uulxiis  and  La 
Pierre.  La  Pierre  was  subse^iuently  found  on  the  borders  of  the  lJpi>ur 
Lake  of  the  Columbia  by  two  Indians  who  wore  coasting  it  in  a  canoe. 
They  took  him  on  board  and  to  Kettle  Falls,  from  whence  he  was  con- 
ducted to  Spokane  House.  lie  stated  that  after  the  death  of  the  tlfth 
man  of  the  party,  Dubois  and  he  continu(;d  for  some  days  at  the  siiot 
where  he  Iiad  ended  his  sufferings,  and  on  quitting  it  they  loaded  them- 
selves with  as  much  of  bis  flesh  as  they  could  carry ;  that  with  this  they 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  Upper  Lt^ke,  aronnd  the  shores  of  which  they 
wandered  for  some  time  in  search  ul  Indians;  that  their  horrid  food  at 
length  became  exhausted,  and  they  were  again  reduced  to  the  prospect 
of  stiirvation;  that  on  the  second  night  after  theij*  last  meal,  ho  (La 
Pierre)  observed  something  suspicious  in  the  conduct  of  Dubois,  which 
induced  him  to  be  on  his  guanl ;  and  that  shortly  after  they  hail  lain 
down  for  the  night,  and  while  he  feigned  sleep,  he  observed  Dubois 
cautiously  opening  his  clasp  knife,  with  which  he  sprung  on  him,  and 
inflicted  on  his  hand  the  blow  which  was  evidently  intended  for  his 
neck.  A  silent  and  dosperato  conflict  followed,  in  which,  after  severe 
struggling,  La  Pierre  succeeded  in  wresting  tho  knife  from  his  antago- 


80 


COLUMBIA   BIVER. 


1 


>>iNt,  niul  having  no  other  resonrce  left,  ho  was  obligeil  in  Holf-defenso  to 
cut  ]  >ulMiiH'8  tliroat,  and  tliat  a  few  dayo  afterward  he  whh  diHcoverc<l 
by  tlie  Indiium  an  above  mentioned.* 

At  H  diHtanco  of  thirt.y -seven  miles  below  the  Little  Narrows  the  houA 
of  the  Upt>er  Arrow  I^ake  is  reached.  This  is  an  enlargement  of  the 
river,  in  which,  liowever,  very  little  cnrrent  is  to  be  detected.  It  is 
about  thirty-three  miles  long  and  three  Mride.  The  view  along  this  por- 
tion of  the  river  is  much  more  open  and  the  conntrj'  more  le^'el  than 
along  the  river  to  the  north. 

Fur  abont  sixteen  miles  the  river  narrows  somewhat  nntil  the  Lower 
Arrow  Lake  is  reached.  This  lake  is  two  and  a  half  miles  wide  and 
alHiut  forty-two  miles  long,  and  is  a  beantiful  sheet  of  water. 

About  ten  or  twelve  miles  below  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Tjowor 
Arrow  Lake  there  comes  in  from  the  east  tiie  Kooteiiay  River,  the  larg- 
est branch  of  the  Up]>er  Columbia.  This  river  pursues  a  very  circuit- 
ous (iourse  and  drains  a  large  extent  of  mountainous  ciountry.  It  rises 
near  tlie  flfty-flrst  parallel  of  latitude  and  pursues  a  southerly  course  for 
three  liundrt^d  itnd  fifty  miles  to  the  old  Kootenay  Fort.  Here  it  makes 
a  great  I>end  to  the  northwest,  and  after  flowing  in  this  direction  two* 
hundred  miles  it  makes  another  turn  to  the  southwest,  and  in  tifry  or 
sixty  miles  distance  reaches  tlie  Columbia.  Just  before  making  tliis 
last  turn  it  Hows  through  a  lake  about  seventy  Ave  miles  long  and  from 
two  to  five  broad,  similar  to  the  Arrow  Lakes  of  the  Columbia.  This 
Kootenay  Lake  and  a  great  part,  of  the  river  is  navigable,  but  in  the 
lower  portion  of  its  course  it  breaks  throngh  the  Selkirk  range  of 
mountains  and  has  many  rapids  and  falls,  one  fall  of  flfteen  feet  being 
a  sliort  distance  from  the  Columbia.  Its  principal  tributaries  are  the 
M(H>yic,  the  Yakh,  and  the  Tobacco  rivers,  all  small  streams.  This 
is  the  flrst  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Columbia  which  flows  in  any  iwr- 
tioii  of  its  course  within  the  territory  of  the  United  States,  a  great 
liortion  of  its  angular  southern  bend  lying  south  of  the  forty-ninth  par- 
allel. 

The  hetulwaters  of  the  Kootenay  are  within  a  very  small  distance  of 
the  headwaters  of  the  Bow  River,  a  tributary  of  th<-  Saskatchewan,  which 
flows  to  Hudson's  Bay. 

JuHt  north  of  the  forty-ninth  parallel,  and  about  twenty-four  miles 
down  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kootenay,  there  enters  the  Pend  d'Oreitle 
River  or  Clarke's  Fork  from  the  east.  This  is  the  longer  and  by  far  the 
most  important  biiMich  of  the  Upper  Columbia,  although  it  is  doubtful 
if  it  flows  as  much  water  as  the  Kootenay.  It  drains  all  that  portion  of 
the  country  lying  between  the  2ocky  and  the  Bitter  Root  Monntains. 

Tlie  Flathead  River  is  its  principal  northern  tributary ;  risingin  British 
Columbia  it  flows  south,  through  Flathea«l  Lake,  a  magnificent  sheet  of 
water,  audunites  with  the  Missoula  River  to  form  the  main  Pend  d'Oreille. 

*  R088  Cox. 


COLUMBIA   RIVKP 


81 


JoahuA  Piloher,  one  of  the  early  explorers  of  this  oouutry,  sivyit  of  this 
Flathead  Lake : 

It  \»  almnt  tlilrtjr-flvo  milm  in  length  liy  flvo  or  «lx  In  width,  Thla  lake  ronimiiiii- 
oatea  with  Ciurke'H  River  and  ia  formod  by  ita  northern  branch.  It  ia  RiirroniidtMl  by 
lofty  uiouiitaina,  whoau  aiimiiiita  r>ro  in  many  caaea  covered  with  |ieriietiial  aiiow.  It 
lioa  in  a  valley,  which  ia  oxteiutiva,  rich,  and  would  anpi>ort  a  cunaideraldo  |)o|i(ila- 
tion.  Tbu  valley  itaelf  ia  covered  with  liixnriant  graaa,  iinil  the  foot  of  the  nioiin- 
taina  with  a  variety  of  timber  and  vegetation  iudicntiiig  the  rioheat  miil.    *     *     ' 

The  upper  parta  of  Clarke'a  River  iaanefkvm  rugged  mouutaina  covered  witli  ainumt 
impenetrable  foreata  of  pine  and  oedar,  but  there  are  aeveral  altuationa  on  tliia  river 
which  would  admit  of  aottlementit  to  u  oonaidurable  ext«nt ;  and  though  not  compitr- 
ablu  iu  fertility  of  aoil  to  the  rich  lauda  of  Mlaaouri  and  Illinoia,  yet  a!iporior  to  nuiny 
of  the  inhabited  and  cultivated  parta  of  tlie  Atlauti'!  Statoa,  where  itowerftil  uoin- 
nmnitioa  have  grown  np.  The  Flathead  Lake  and  ita  rich  and  lieaiitiful  valley  aru 
on  thia  fork,  and  vie  iu  apiiearauco  with  the  beautiful  lakea  and  valleya  of  Hwitzur- 
land.  At  the  fo<jt  of  the  monntaiua,- aooonling  to  Information,  there  ia  a  bolt  or  atrip 
of  fertile  land,  nimilar  to  what  ia  aeen  at  the  foot  of  the  Alleghany  and  Uluo  Ridge. 

The  Saint  llegis  Borgia,  Bitt«r  Itoot,  Hell  Gate,  Big  Blackfoot  and 
Deer  Lodge  rivers  are  the  main  feeders  of  the  Missoula. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  all  the  large  rivers  of  the  north,  in  some  por- 
tion of  theu*  course,  oiwu  out  into  a  lake  or  lakes;  it  is  so  with  the  Pend 
d'Oreille  River,  the  lake  of  the  same  name  being  an  enlargement  of 
the  river  \vith  a  great  arm  to  the  soutli. 

This  lake  is  crossed  by  the  forty-eighth  parallel  of  latitude  and  is 
situated  wholly  within  the  territory  of  Idaho.  This  river  is  of  great 
importance,  ftamishing,  as  it  does,  a  practicable  and  easy  pass  across 
the  Bitter  Root  Mountains  for  a  railroad,  which  is  being  utilixeil  by 
the  Northern  Pacitlo  Railroad  Company.  The  Pend  d'Oreille  Lake  and 
the  river  in  its  vicinity  are  uavigable;  no  other  portions  of  the  river  are, 
as  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  leant. 

At  its  mouth  the  river  is  about  fifty  yanls  wide,  and  pours  itself  into 
the  Columbia  in  one  fine  Toaming  sheet  over  a  ledge  of  rocks  eight  or 
ten  feet  high,  which  bars  it  across  from  side  to  side. 

Pursuing  its  course  to  the  southward  through  a  most  iMiautiful  c;oiui- 
try,  the  next  tributary  of  importance  comu'g  into  the  Columbia  is  the 
S]M)kane  River,  which  drains  a  large  portion  of  the  country  west  of  the 
Bitter  Root  Mountains,  is  the  outlet  of  Cuenr  d'  Alfiue  Lake,  and,  Howing 
westward,  reaches  the  Columbia  where  it  makes  its  big  bend  to  the 
west.  No  other  struim  comes  into  the  left  bank  of  the  Columbia  until 
it  is  joined  by  the  Snake. 

Several  snitUl  streams  draining  the  country  of  the  Colville  Indians 
flow  from  the  north,  but  none  of  any  magnitude  until  the  Okinukaiiu  is 
reached.  This  noble  river  is  the  outlet  of  a  mountain-environed  lukt;, 
about  eighty  miles  in  length,  lying  between  40°  30'  and  IHP  IW  north 
latitude.  There  are  a  number  of  beautifUl  lakes  in  the  course  of  the 
river  below  the  large  fountain  lake. 

From  the  region  of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  and  draining  tlieir  eastern 
slopes,  several  streams  come  iu  to  swell  the  Columbia — the  Methow, 
8.  Ex.  180 11 


82 


COLUMBIA   RIVKB. 


Ciielaii,  Eiitutqua,  Wuuatohee,  and  Yakima,  boiiig  thu  only  ones  wurUiy 

of  IIOtitM). 

Shortly  aiU'ir  joining  the  Bnako  the  Columbia  makvH  a  Kroat  bend  Ut 
the  w««t  and  receives  "n  Huecesaion  tlio  Walla  Walla,  Umatilla,  John 
Day,  l)e8  ChutoH,  Klikitat,  Willamette,  Oowlitz  and  other  rivenj  and 
BtroaniH,  and,  after  breaking  through  the  CiMtcade  Mountains,  in  a  gorge 
unanrpaHHeil  on  earth  for  iMsaufy  and  grandeur,  in  latitnile  46°  15'  it 
IHmra  itH  fi-itMh  m^jestie  flood  through  the  whiteuai>i>ed  brcsikerH  of  ita 
biir  into  the  placid  wtwtem  ocean. 


li 


11^ 


Mil: 


CnAPTKIlVIII. 

uis'wuy  or  thk  discovery  and  kxiiohation  of  tub  colusioia 

my  Kit. 

About  the  uame  time  in  the  eventful  year  of  1402  that  the  indomita- 
ble energy  and  geniuH  of  ColumbuH  was  rewanlod  by  his  discovery  of 
a  new  world,  a  conclave  of  cardinals  at  Rome  rewarded  an  almost  nn- 
paralleled  course  of  hyiMKjrisy  by  electing  Alexander  VI  Poihi  «>f  Uome. 

The  ti^mi>oral  i)Ower  of  the  Itoman  Church  Itegan  about  this  time  to 
topple  and  to  take  its  downward  course  to  the  pitiful  condition  which  it 
o<!CupieH  at  present.  Alexander  VI,  "the  incarnatiiui  of  the  secular 
Hitirit  of  the  papacy,"  nnule  grand  eftbrts  to  reestablish  and  itcritetuato 
the  temimral  power  of  the  church,  yet,  notwitlistsinding  all  his  eftbrtM, 
this  successor  of  Peter  ap]>ears  for  the  last  time  in  history  as  theundis- 
pute^l  bestower  of  kingdoms  and  the  ultimate  tribnnal  of  apiieal  for 
Christian  nations.  Spain  and  Portuijal  rosortecl  to  him  for  the  adjust- 
ment of  their  claims  to  the  new  world ;  by  tnicing  a  line  on  a  map  he  dis- 
posed of  three-fourths  of  the  human  race,  and  more  than  three-fourths 
of  the  world  of  land  and  water. 

Never,  according  to  mediteval  ideas,  ha<l  a  Pope  exerted  his  preroga- 
tive with  equal  grandeur  to  that  when  Alexander  VI  bestowed  uiion  the 
two  greatest  maritime  lowers  of  Europe,  to  each  one-half  of  the  Pagan 
world  of  land  and  water  and  human  beings;  that  world  then  just  be- 
ginning to  be  dimly  seen  by  the  light  of  the  magniflceut  discoveries  of 
Columbus  and  his  successors. 

Upou  these  extraordinary  grants  was  founded  the  celebrated  treaty 
of  partition  of  the  ocean,  concluded  in  1794,  by  which  the  Portuguese 
were  to  ei^joy  ond  possess  the  exclusive  rights  of  discovery,  trade,  con- 
quest., and  dominion  in  all  the  seas  and  territories  not  previously  be- 
longing to  a  Christian  prince  or  i)eople,  ea«t  of  a  meridian  line  passing 
three  hundred  and  seventy  leagues  west  of  the  Cape  Verde  Islaiuls,  and 
the  Spaniards  were  to  possess  all  seas  and  all  Pagan  lands  west  of  that 
line. 

The  two  nations  having  thus,  under  the  sanction  and  guarantee  of  the 
highest  power  in  Europe,  settled  the  conditions  by  which  the/  appropri- 


■1- 


T 


COUrMHIA    KIVKB. 


83 


At«d  to  tliPninelvoH  the  entire  I'agtin  world,  witliont  i^gnr«1  to  tlir*  cliiiina 
or  (luHireH  of  aiiylKxtj'  olxe,  ciw;li  oontinuMl  Um  Honnili  for  n  iiavignltlo 
pnMHAgn  to  1 11(1  in. 

The  PortURiieHO  wore  HoonoHt  HuccosHfnl,  by  8ailiiiK  iiroiind  tli«  «»ntli- 
oni  oxtrnmity  of  Afticn,  ninl  OHtjihliHliiiif;  tlieir  colonitm  niul  iiiHuoiKio  in 
nmiiy  of  the  ro^'onH  of  Soiitlicrn  Ania.  They  iiIho  ol)tniiio<l  pottHOHHion 
of  Itmzil,  whicli  waM  fouixl  to  lit*  to  tho  eant  of  the  dividinf;  iiioridiiiii, 
very  iimch  to  tho  exiwiieration  of  the  8paniiirdH,  who  hiul  exiMji-tod  by 
thn  treaty  of  partition  to  have  exohiHive  dominion  over  tho  (tountritw 
lyiiiK  t.o  tho  wuHt  of  the  Atlantic;. 

The  SpanianlH  laltored  with  gn>.at  naniefltiioH8  and  hiiccohh  In  pluntiiiK 
colonicH  ill  the  Went  Indies,  and  in  exploring  the  coiimIh  in  the  vicinity, 
whieh  th<\v  hooii  ascertaineil  to  be  tho  Itordera  of  a  gntat  coiitlnont. 

With  the  object  of  awM^rtniniiig  tho  extent  of  thin  continent,  they  itoi- 
severed  in  their  exainiiiatioiiH,  in  which  they  were  onconraged  by  the 
coiiHtant  awinrance  of  the  uativefl  of  the  coants  and  islaiwln  i'UH|)eotiiig 
the  existence  of  a  great  sea  and  rich  and  powerftil  nations  towanls  the 
sotting  Hiin. 

In  tlio  year  1513  this  great  sea  wa»  discovered  near  where  Panama 
now  stands  by  Vasco  Niiiiok  de  Balboa.  This  was  naturally  Hupposc«l  to 
lie  the  Sonthern  Ocean  which  bathed  the  shores  of  India,  and  us  its 
proximity  to  the  Atlantic  was  at  the  same  time  ascertaiiietl,  it  was  very 
reasonably  hope<l  that  the  two  oceans  would  be  fonnd  to  be  <;oiiii(H!tod 
in  HUfdi  a  manner  as  t^i  afford  a  speedy  and  safe  passage  for  ships  from 
one  to  the  other.  This  hoi>o  fonnd  encimragcnieiit  in  the  fact  that  a 
Portiignese  navigator  namcil  Cortereal  claimed  that  in  141H)  and  1500  he 
sailed  through  a  narrow  channel,  named  by  him  the  Straits  of  Anian, 
into  another  great  sea  coinniiinicating  with  tho  B«mthern  or  Indian 
Oce4vn. 

The  great  hope  was,  however,  diH]H>llc4l,  as  the  ex]>lorationH  soon  proved 
oonoluHivelj'  the  entire  st^paration  of  the  oceans  in  the  regions  near  the 
West  Indies. 

In  the  year  1620  Fernando  Magellan  discovered  and  sailefl  through 
the  Ktrait  bearing  his  name,  south  of  the  American  continent,  into  the 
great  o<;ean  discovered  by  lialboa,  and  pro«M)eding  wttstward,  Iiulia  was 
reached,  and  for  the  iirst  time  in  the  history  of  inankind  the  worKi  was 
circnmnavigateil. 

This  route  for  reaching  India  by  the  Straits;  of  Magellan  was  not  sat- 
isfactory, owing  to  its  length,  difticiiltios,  and  dangers,  and  the  search 
was  Htill  continue<l  for  other  and  more  diriMst  channels  frcnn  tho  Atlantic 
to  the  Houthem  Ocean. 

The  wealthy  and  jiowerftil  Empire  of  Mexirx)  was  discoverwl  in  1618, 
and  a  few  years  after  it  was  conqnoriHl  for  tho  Spiinish  Crown  by  Her- 
nando Cortes,  aft«r  one  of  the  most  heroic  and  cniel  campaigns  recorded 
in  human  annals. 

When  the  conquest  of  Mexico  hatl  been  compietcd  tho  Hpaniards  ini- 


84 


COLUMniA   RIVRR. 


■I 
if 


miMliatoly  tiinicKl  their  attention  to  tlio  northwestern  ooant  of  Anioricn. 
Their  ux|MMlitionH  by  iien  nn«l  huid  in  that  direction  wore  nninerouB,  and 
(!orl«H  liiniHelf  set  the  exainpU)  by  undertnkinir  Hcvoral  of  the  earlieHt 
at  hiM  own  expentte  and  condncting  one  of  them  in  {Nirson.  Tlie  Rni|)entr 
hiul  oxliort4Ml  him  to  explore  the  northern  Heos  in  Hearch  of  "the  aeeret" 
of  a  Htrait  which  ahouhl  abridge  the  voyage  from  Spain  to  the  East  Indies, 
and  lie  willingly  ongagMl  in  the  now  cntcrpHseH  of  extending  tlioBpan- 
isli  iHJwer  into  tther  and  as  yet  unexplore«l  regions,  and  of  solving,  per- 
ha]»s,  the  long-studied  problem  of  a  direct  northern  passage  by  water  to 
Cathay. 

The  iM'lief  in  the  existence  of  such  a  northwest  passage  to  India,  join- 
ing the  Atlantic  in  the  iH)Hition  variously  assigned  to Corten^al's  Stniits 
of  Anian,  was  wide  spread  among  the  maritime  nations  of  Euroiw,  and, 
all  joining  in  thu  s«iarch,  many  voyages  of  discovery  were  niailo  vilong 
both  coasts  of  North  America  during  the  sixteenth  and  sevenioenth 
ctMituries.  Many  false  reiwrts  of  the  discovery  of  the  desired  channel 
were  circulated,  the  effects  of  which  reports  were  to  spur  all  to  greater 
exertions,  and  to  promote  very  materially  the  explorations  in  the  west- 
ern world. 

Foremost  among  all  on  the  western  coasts  were  the  8panfards,  urged 
on  by  the  indomitable  CQcinA.  kie  and  his  successors  on  the  vice-rt^gal 
throne  of  Mexico  gradually  extcndiMl  the  knowledge  of  th'^^  coasts.  The 
vacillating  and  selflsh  policy  of  Hpain,  however,  grcatlv  hindered  her 
own  subjiHjts  from  pursuing  their  explorations  with  vigor,  and  her  claim 
t4>  exclusive  dominiou  over  all  the  wet^torn  world  deteired  mariners  of 
other  nations  from  making  persistent  efforts. 

Until  the  beginning  of  the  seventeeuth  century  the  Spanish  naviga- 
tors pushed  their  voyages  of  discovery  as  far  as  they  conld  along  the 
coiu<ts  of  Western  America,  and  then  they  ceased  almost  entirely  for 
a  hundretl  years  and  more,  owing  to  the  change  in  the  iM>licy  of  Spain. 
She  hail  ceased  to  desire  the  existence  of  a  northwest  passage  from 
Europe  to  the  Pacific,  because,  though  such  a  passage  might  in  some 
resiMMJts  be  useful  to  her,  it  would  be  greatly  more  iiyurious  to  her  in 
other  respects,  inasmuch  as  it  would  bring  down  upon  her  possessions 
in  the  Pacific  and  Indian  Seas  the  piratical  cruisers  of  the  northern 
nations  of  Europe.  The  expetiitions  of  Drake  and  Cavendish  had  shown 
that  the  circuit  of  Cai>e  Horn  did  not  furnish  to  Si>ain  a  complete 
security  for  her  possessions  in  the  Pacific.  Still  more  alarming  would 
have  l>een  their  insecurity  if  accessible  by  au  easy  piissage  from  the 
vicinity  of  Hudson's  Bay. 

In  this  connection,  and  illustrating  the  policy  of  Spain,  it  may  be  in- 
teresting to  know  that  in  the  time  of  Philip  II  it  was  propdse<l  to  cut  a 
canal  through  the  isthmus  of  Panama  for  the  passage  of  ships  from  one 
ocean  to  the  other,  and  two  Flemish  enginiH>r8  were  sent  to  examine 
the  place  with  that  object.  They,  however,  found  the  obstacles  insuper- 
able, and  the  Council  of  the  Indies  at  the  same  time  represented  to  the 


'M 


iM 


COLUMRIA   RIVKB. 


Kiiifc  thfl  ii\|iiri«s  which  Huch  a  onnal  would  oootution  to  tho  inoiinnthy, 
in  noiiHcqiKMiott  of  \fliich  liis  iniyoiity  deorotMl  tlint  no  on««  hIiouIiI  in 
fnture  attempt,  or  men  propoee,  nueh  an  undertaking  under  penaltj/  of 
dfatk^ 

All  thiH  time  tho  Columbia  waa  imuring  itfi  undiHoovernd  wiitoi'N  int<» 
tho  Piuuflo,  ivnd  the  HpaniBh  und  EnKlinh  »»^  i|{»tora  who  voutunjd  into 
thiH  wo«t4)ni  ocoan  wont  blindly  by  it 

Discovory  in  tin*  North  Piiciflc  wtw  revivwl  by  Ruiwift,  who,  in  oonHO- 
qnonco  of  her  AHiatic  ]NMHOH8ionH,  very  nntuntliy  tnnuMi  li«>r  att^'ntion 
to  tho  opiMwit^  coast  of  Amorioo.  Tho  voyage  of  HohriuK  and  Twliiri- 
kow,  in  1728, 1729,  and  1741,  led  to  a  more  exiust  knowlMlg**  of  tho  rol- 
ativo  beiuiiifcs  of  the  Asiatic  and  American  itoiiMt:fi  in  the  IiIkIi  northern 
latitiules,  and  to  the  llussian  eatabliahmenU^  on  the  Aleutian  IhIiuhIh 
and  tho  promontory  of  Alaska. 

These  events  alarmed  Spain  and  stimulated  England,  and  the  numer 
ons  voyages  of  those  two  nations  to  the  northwest  const  eusuc<l. 

I'assing  by  those  voyages  which  added  nuching  to  the  knowltxlge  of 
the  Columbia,  or  gave  no  clue  to  its  existence,  we  come  to  the  years 
1774  and  1779,  when  three  exploring  voyages  were  made  by  order  of  tho 
8i>anish  Government,  in  which  the  west  coasts  of  America  were  exam- 
ined as  far  north  as  the  sixtieth  degree  of  latitude.  The  second  of  these 
voyages  was  under  the  command  of  Capt.  Bruno  Ilecata,  and  he,  on  tho 
15th  of  August,  1775,  arrived  opposite  an  ojtening,  in  the  latitude  AVfi 
17',  from  which  rushed  a  current  so  strong  as  to  prevent  his  entering  it. 
This  circumstance  convinced  him  that  it  was  the  mouth  of  some  great 
river,  or,  i)erhaps,  of  the  straits  of  Fuoa,  whioh  might  have  l>eeu  erro- 
neously placed  on  his  chart.  He  in  consequence  remained  in  its  vicinity 
another  day  in  the  hope  of  asoertaining  the  true  character  of  the  place, 
but,  Iteing  still  unable  to  enter  the  oi>ening,  he  continued  his  voyage 
towards  the  south. 

On  the  opening  in  the  coast  thus  discovered  Ilecata  bestowed  the 
name  of  EnaeSada  de  Asuncion,  or  Ataumption  Inlet,  calling  the  imint 
on  its  north  side  Vape  8an  Boque,  and  that  on  the  south  Caj)e  Frondono, 
or  Leafy  Gape.  lu  the  charts  publishci  in  Mexico  soon  after  the  conclu- 
sion of  the  voyage,  the  entrance  is  called  En  SeAada  de  Heonta,  or  Hecata's 
Inlet,  and  Eio  de  8an  sioque,  or  river  of  Saint  Roc.  It  was  undoubtedly 
the  mouth  of  the  great  river  of  the  western  side  of  America;  the  same 
which  was,  in  1702,  first  entered  by  the  ship  Columbia,  from  Boston, 
under  the  commaud  of  Robert  Gray,  and  has  ever  since  been  called  the 
Columbia.  The  evidence  of  its  first  discovery  by  Ilecata  on  the  15th 
of  August,  1775,  is  unquestioned. 

By  this  time  the  iwwer  of  Spain  in  the  New  World  hiul  become  very 
much  reduced,  owing  to  tlie  tx>ntinual  and  daring  warfare  and  explonv 
tions  carried  on  by  tho  gallant  sailors  of  Britain  and  her  American 
colonies. 

*  Qreenbow. 


I 


86 


COLITMniA   RIVEB. 


I'l 


Tilt)  I'lifliflo  wiiM  now  <>])en  to  tlio  odventurouH  Hailors  niid  trndorfl  of 
nil  iiatiiHiH.  * 

III  the  iiinaii  tiiiiu  tb«  BiiiKliflh  mid  French,  and  tlioir  Ainorioan  de- 
NmiidaiitM,  hiui  Iteeii  piiHliiiiir  their  disoovories  to  the  w(wtfn>iii  tlio  At- 
luiitM!  (Miiutta,  mid  oiich  your  hv.w  HOinothing  iwldod  to  thn  knowliMlK«  <>r 
i\w  unmt  interior  of  Ainurio),.  To  tlio  Fronoh  nnd  BvlKiaii  otli«wrfi  mid 
iiiiHMioiiiirim  iiiiiHt  1m)  kIvuii  thuomdit  for  the  moat  cxtvndml  nnd  during 
(ix|ilorntionH  nnd  Murvcya. 

From  the  IiidimiN  Hinoiif;  whom  tliey  Hojoumed  they  doriveil  a  viif^iio 
I<iiowI(mIk*^  of  n  ^rtuit  rivor  Howiiiif  to  the  west,  luid  ni>on  nearly  nil  tlio 
iiin|m  of  Aniericn  pnbliHluHl  diiriii({  the  (Mirly  pnrt  of  tlio  fliKht^Hinth  cen- 
tury may  be  fonnd  one  or  more  Huch  riverH  repreiNtntoil.  Tlieflo  rivers 
v/vni  given  the  iintiie  of  Uiver  of  the  Went,  Hirer  Thegaya,  River  AffniUir, 
or  Home  other,  and  were  reproHcntiHl  on  the  authority  of  accounts  re- 
(■4«iviHl  from  the  IndinnH,  or  of  ermiicouH  or  fabuluna  nooonnts  of  voyogita 
along  the  North  Pacific  counts. 

(Jn  t.  .Tonnthan  Cavver,  of  Connecticut,  spent  the  years  170fl-'O7-'O8 
anions  the  Indians  of  the  Upiier  Mississippi,  ai.d  ten  years  Inter  pub- 
HnIumI  an  account  of  his  travels,  &o.,  in  which  he  sevenil  times  si>eaks 
of  this  as  the  (^^at  river  of  the  west,  or  the  Oregon,  or  Origan. 

This  is  the  flrst  mention  of  the  name  Oregon.  Mr.  Greeiihow  says 
that  iiiu(;h  labor  has  been  exiieiidcd  in  vain  to  discover  its  meaning  and 
derivation,  and  that  it  was  most  probably  invontfl<l  by  Carver. 

Although  it  does  not  seem  {mssible  to  determine  with  <'<>rtainty  the 
origin  of  the  word  Oregon,  it  does  not  seem  at  all  probable  that  it  is  a 
nicnninglcHH  word  invented  or  coined  by  Carver. 

It  has  been  claimed,  and  not  without  some  reason,  that  it  is  from  the 
Spanish  word  Oregnw,  the  wild  marjoram.  Origanum  Vulgare  It,  found 
growing  in  abundance  along  the  coasts.  It  also  may  bo  from  the  8pan- 
inIi  word  Oreja,  the  ear,  or  some  of  it«  derivatives,  as  Or^on,  or  Orejonee, 
signifying  dried  fruits,  and  in  the  familiar  language  of  Spain  sigiiifles 
iloff^H-mrt,  an  ear-pulling,  &c.  A  derivative  word  Orejera  signifies  a  sort 
of  car-ring  worn  by  Imlians. 

Carver  did  not  write  his  lM)ok  until  ten  years  after  he  flnishod  his 
travels  and  returnu('t  to  England,  and  it  is  very  probable  that  he  heard 
the  word  or  saw  it  in  some  Spanish  chronicle  and  made  use  of  it  in  his 
own  narrative. 

The  expedition  which  left  England  in  1776,  under  the  command  of 
tiu\  intrepid  navigator,  Capt  James  Cook,  made  known  to  the  world 
the  immense  proflta  which  conhl  be  derived  fh>m  the  tmmmcrce  in  furs 
between  the  PaciHc  coastu  of  America  and  China.  In  this  trade  were 
soon  engaged  a  number  of  ships  sailing  under  various  Hogs  and  com- 
mandoil  by  men  of  difierent  nationalities,  but  principally  by  English- 
men. 

Captain  Meares,  sailing  in  1788  under  the  flag  of  the  British  East 
India  Company,  searched  for  Hocata's  river  of  Saint  Itoc,  but,  instead 


1 


COLUMBIA    RIVKB. 


tr 


of  ftiKliuK  t'v  river,  he  fmitul  in  the  pliioo  wliero  it  wm  looaUMl  on  tlie 
HiniiiIhIi  c'liiirUi  a  larffo  bay,  whfuh  lie  was  iiiiiiMo  to  «Hnt(«r  hiiiI  Ut  wliicli 
lie  gare  tlie  nuiiie  of  l)e«eption  Hay;  to  the  northern  promontory  hu 
gave  the  name  of  (/a|M)  UiHapimintinnnt,  wiiich  nnino  it  Htill  tmirH.  Ilu 
explicitly  denied  the  exiHtence  of  any  Hnoh  rivrr  iih  the  Biiint  IttHi. 

.11  the  Hunimer  of  1787  the  Columbia  and  WaiiMHffton,  tHinuniindcd 
by  John  Kemlrick  and  Robert  Gray,  were  ntte<l  out  in  iioHton  for  triMio 
on  the  nortliwoNt  c-oiwt.  Tho  Wuxliin/ton,  uoininnndud  liy  Oray,  uiimIo 
the  northwest  ocnat  in  Augunt,  178t>,  n  the  forty-Mixth  d«>grt<u  of  iut- 
itadf^  where  she  came  near  being  dcHiA  ,ed  in  hor  efforts  to  (Mitur  an 
o|iening,  which  waM  most  probably  tb  .  li.outh  of  the  great  river  uftur- 
wards  called  by  her  comin»n«ler  t'l  <  (Join;  >)>ia. 

Uray  remaint^JI  on  the  coast  (!  >  ig  178!),  ongi^^wl  in  explorutioim  and 
trading  voyages,  in  tho  oonri^o  of  which  no ''cntenxl  and  hhIUmI  up  u 
gn«t  arm  of  the  sea  for  fifty  miles  in  a  roiithoast  direction  and  found 
the  iNuuiagc  five  leagues  wide.^  This  wits  the  Strait  of  Juan  *lu  Ku(;», 
disoovereil  by  the  old  Greek  pilot  in  la02,  and  seen,  but  not  cnt(>red, 
by  Iterkoley  in  17A7. 

In  the  latter  p;irt  of  tho  year  (1780)  Gray  sailed  in  >;  rionnind  <»f  tlio 
Columbia  to  China,  which  he  reached  in  Dei'^inlier,  and  from  thonce 
sailed  ariHind  the  Cajie  of  Go4n1  IJoi>e,  and  arrived  iu  liostoii  AnguMt 
lU,  I79U,  having  carrie<l  the  flag  of  the  United  Htates  for  the  llrMt  time 
around  the  worhl. 

Kendrick,  in  comnuwd  of  the  Washington,  ittu'.Mnetl  and  niiwlu  ex- 
andnatioDs  of  the  northwest  coasts,  and  niust  bo  consideied  as  tlie  first 
penton  lielonging  to  a  civilized  nation  who  sailed  entirely  tlirougli  tlio 
Htraits  of  Fnca  after  its  discovery  by  the  Greek  |tilot  in  151)2.  lie  Hailod 
to  the  eastward  through  the  Strait  of  Fuoa,  then  nortliwestwanl  tlirougli 
the  Stniits  of  Georgia  and  Queen  Charlotte's  Sound  to  the  I'acillu,  thus 
cMtablishing  the  insalation  of  Vancouver  Island. 

In  September,  1790,  Gray,  still  in  connnand  of  the  Columbia,  saileil 
from  lioston,  and  in  Jane,  1791,  arrived  on  the  northwest  coast  and  re- 
muine«l,  trading  and  exploring  about  Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  until  the 
Mpdug  of  1792,  when  he  took  his  departui-e  on  an  exiieditiou  soiitliward 
along  the  coast.  Returning  to  the  northward,  he,  on  the  2Uth  of  April, 
met  Vanoonver  near  the  Straits  of  Fuoa,  and,  amon^  other  things,  in- 
formed him  that  in  the  latitude  40°  10'  he  had  lieen  off  the  mouth  of  a 
large  river,  where  the  outsetting  current  was  so  strong  as  to  prevent  his 
entering  it,  although  for  nine  days  h^  tried  to  do  so. 

Vancouver  and  bis  lieutenant,  Broughton,  hml  just  finished  a  very 
curefnl  examination  of  the  coast  trom  Cape  Mendocino  to  the  Straits  of 
Fnca;  had  noticed  the  Deception  Hay  of  Meares,  in  latitude  4(*o  W,  and 
that  here  the  sea  changed  from  it^^  ;.>taral  to  rivor-coloreil  water,  but 
did  not  consider  the  oi>ening  worthy  his  attention,  and  from  tlio  lino  of 
breakers  deemed  it  inaooessible.    He  records  his  emphatic  disbelief  iu 


COLUMBIA   BIVEB. 


H 


t  --'■ 


the  exiMtoiice  of  any  Hafe  port  or  large  river  aIon{;  the  part  of  the  coast 
examino<I  by  him. 

Aff  .*  parting  with  tlie  English  ship,  Gray  sailed  along  the  coast  to 
the  Huiith,  ;l«terniinpd  to  soItp  the  question  of  the  existence  of  the  river, 
lie  wont  first  into  a  safe  and  commodious  harbor,  now  known  as  Oray'a 
IJarlrar,  and  on  the  lltli  of  May  he  eutere<l  his  desired  port,  running  in, 
with  all  Kails  set,  between  the  breakers  (which  had  been  pronounced 
impassable  by  Mcarex  and  Vancouver),  and  came  to  anchor  in  a  large 
liver  of  fresh  water,  ten  miles  above  its  month.  He  afterward,  keeping 
ai.ing  the  northern  bank,  proceeded  up  the  river  for  twelve  or  fifteen 
miles  further,  at  which  point,  having  taken  the  wrong  channel,  he  turned 
back  and  spent  a  week  in  vain  af'empts  to  gee  back  to  sea  before  he 
Buccocded. 

On  leaving  the  ri^^er.  Gray  gave  it  the  name  of  bis  ship,  the  Colum- 
bia. Attempts  have  been  made  to  fix  upon  it  the  name  of  Oregon  from 
Carver's  indistinct  narrative,  but  have  not  succeeded.  Gray  gave  the 
name  of  Point  Adams  to  the  southern  point  and  Gape  Hancock  to  the 
northern  point  at  the  river  mouth. 

This  first  discovery  and  eutranee  into  the  Golnmbia  Eivor  by  Gray, 
an  American,  gave  the  United  States  their  principal  claim  to  the  terri- 
tory drained  by  tlie  river,  and  is  thus  a  very  important  episode  in  the 
history  of  the  river  and  of  the  country  known  as  the  Oregon  region. 

After  leaving  the  Columbia,  Gray  fortunately  met  with  the  Spanish 
Commander  Quadra,  to  whom  he  gave  an  account  of  his  discovery  and 
a  chart  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  In  the  controversy  which  after- 
ward an)se  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  for  the  i>08- 
session  of  Oregon,  "  it  was  this  chart  that  outflanked  the  schenung  of 
Vancouver  and  gave  the  broad  estate  of  silver-tented  Hood  to  free 
America."  • 

In  October  of  the  same  year,  1792,  Lieutenant  Broughton  entered  the 
month  of  the  Columbia  in  the  Cliatham  and  found  tlici-e  the  brig  Jenny, 
from  Bristol.  Broughton  examined  the  river  for  about  one  hundred 
miles  from  its  mouth,  going  up  it  in  a  small  Iwat  to  about  where  the 
town  of  Vancouver  now  stands. 

The  discoveries  of  Gray,  Vancouver,  Broughton,  Kendrick,  and  others, 
added  largely  to  the  knowledge  of  the  country  and  attracted  the  atten- 
tion of  mariners  and  merchants. 

Many  vessels  were  now  employed  in  carrying  on  the  trade  with  the 
Indians.  This  trade,  owing  to  the  peculiar  relations  existing  among 
the  nations  of  Europe  and  their  colonies,  both  with  each  other  and  with 
Cliiini,  was  almost  entirely  in  the  hands  of  citizens  of  the  United  States, 
and  it  is  certain  that  previous  to  the  establishment  of  Astoria  in  1811 
many  vessels  entered  the  Columbia. 

Alter  the  transfer  of  the  French  possessions  in  America  to  the  United 
States  in  1803,  the  government  of  our  country,  under  the  enlightened 

*  SimpDon. 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


89 


and  far-8eeiug  Jefferson,  became  imbued  with  the  d'>'uro  of  obUiiiiing 
»n  lusuarate  knowledge  of  its  new  western  territory,  with  a  view  to  the 
ultimate  objects  of  colonization  and  commerce.  In  furtherance  of  this 
desire  a  number  of  exi)6ditions  were  fitted  out,  whoso  explorations  re- 
sulted in  geographical  discoveries  of  great  importance. 

B,v  far  the  most  important  of  these  expedition's  was  the  one  intrusted 
to  the  command  of  Gaptains  Jjewis  and  Clarke,  who  were  directed  to 
ascend  the  Missouri,  cross  the  Bocky  Mountains,  and  trace  tlie  Columbia, 
the  gretit  river  of  the  west^  from  its  sources  to  the  sea,  and  determine 
thus  the  most  direct  and  practicable  water  communication  for  thu  pur- 
poses of  commerce. 

Proltably  no  two  men  ever  had  a  t^isk  given  them  of  greater  difllculty 
and  magnitude,  and  involving  the  exerciw  of  more  skill,  wisdom,  intre- 
pidity, discretion,  and  all  manly  attribut«s,  and  whiuli,  after  an  "  ex(H>ri- 
enceepiciu  the  grandeur  of  its  unwitnesseil  valor,"  was  carried  to  a 
complete  and  successful  termination,  than  hivd  these  two  men,  Captains 
Lewis  and  Clarke. 

The  history  of  man  furnishes  few  instances  in  which  so  mucli  has  been 
added  in  so  short  a  space  to  the  geographical  knowledge  of  the  world, 
and  which  has  stood  the  test  of  time  like  that  gathered  and  recorded  by 
them.  These  travelers  began  the  ascent  of  the  Missouri  in  1804  and 
spent  the  winter  of  1804-1805  at  Fort  Mandan.  The  next  season  they 
continued  up  the  Missouri  to  the  tliree  forks,  calle<l  by  them  Jetfer^on, 
Ma^lison,  and  Gallatin;  they  continued  on  up  the  Jefferson  Fork  and 
crossed  over  to  the  west  and  struck  the  Salmon  River.  This  they  found 
they  could  not  descend,  owing  to  its  deep  oafions,  falls,  and  rapids,  and 
so  they  went  north,  and  after  great  suffering  among  the  mounf/ains  they 
retichcd  th»  Kooskooskee  or  Clearwater,  where  it  is  navigable  for  canoes. 
They  made  boats  and  proceeded  down  this  stream  to  its  junction  with 
the  Snake  liiver,  and  on  down  this  great  branch  to  the  main  Columbia, 
which  they  explored  to  its  mouth,  reaching  the  Pacific  in  Dccemlwr, 
1805.  They  remained  during  the  winter  of  1805-1806  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia,  and  returned  the  next  season  by  nearly  the  same  route 
by  which  they  had  come. 

Thus,  only  seventy-five  years  ago,  wa«  this  river  in  its  upper  portions 
first  navigated  by  white  men.  Their  dug-out  canoes  are  now  replaced 
by  stately  steamers  bearing  great  lotuls  of  precious  grain  from  the  uiost 
fertile  regions  on  the  earth,  *^hen  occnpicil  and  roamed  over  alone  by 
savage  men  and  beasts. 

For  crossing  the  plains  and  uiounttiins  the  iron  horse  has  replaced  itM 
more  frail  and  fleshly  brother,  ami  the  scream  of  c*eam  is  now  heard 
proclaiming  the  doom  of  savagery  and  the  advent  of  civilization  and 
reflneraeut. 

Mr.  Aster's  attempt  to  found  a  fur-trading  empire  on  the  Columbia 
and  its  tributary  lauds  and  streams  is  the  next  important  era  in  the  his- 
tory of  the  Columbia.    One  expedition  was  sent  by  sea  and  one  by  land. 
8.  Ex.  186 12 


90 


COLUMBIA  BIVEE. 


:   s« 


Thti  tirHt,  in  the  ship  Touqiiiu,  sailed  from  New  York  September  8, 1810, 
auti  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Colnmbia  on  tho  22d  of  March,  1811, 
and  untoring  it  the  party  established  their  fort  and  trading  itost,  to 
which  they  gave  tho  name  of  Astoria. 

Tho  land  oxiMxIition  under  Mr,  Wilson  P.  Hunt  was  organized  at  Mon- 
trual,  Mackinaw,  and  Saint  Louis,  which  latter  place  it  left  October  21, 
1810.  Tlie  party  siMjnt  the  winter  of  1810-'ll  on  the  banks  of  the  Up- 
I>er  Missouri,  and  from  thence  starteil  in  thn  spring  of  1811  acroes  the 
mountains  and  reached  tho  headwaters  of  the  Bnake  Kiver,  down  which 
thuy  tritMl  to  make  their  way.  After  complicated  and  almost  incredible 
Huflurings  from  hard  travel,  cold,  thirst,  and  liuuger,  and  annoyances 
trom  tho  insolence  and  craft  of  tho  Indians,  suritassing  all  that  is  told  of 
any  equally  well  appointed  body  of  travelers  west  of  the  Itocky  Mount- 
ains, finally,  on  January  21, 1812,  the  jwrtiou  of  tho  original  party  re- 
maining with  Mr.  Hunt  came  in  sight  of  tho  Columbia  Biver  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Umatilla,  and  proceeding  down  it  arrived  on  the  ISth  of 
February  at  Astoria. 

It  was  not,  however,  until  the  11th  of  May,  1812,  that  all  the  strag 
gling  members  of  the  party  got  to  their  desired  haven  at  the  mouth  of 
the  great  river. 

While  tho  land  exiHidition  was  thus  straggling  i>ainfully  across  the 
mountains  and  down  the  great  southern  branch  of  the  Columbia,  and 
tho  Astorians  were  engaged  in  preparing  and  laying  out  their  future 
homes  and  trading  with  the  neighboring  Indians,  the  Northwest  Fur 
Company  hi^d  not  been  idle. 

In  1810  an  expedition  under  Mr.  David  Thompson,  the  astronomer 
and  surveyor  of  the  company,  started  from  Canada  with  the  hope  of 
reaching  tho  mouth  of  the  Columbia  before  Aster's  parties,  of  whose 
plans  they  were  cognizant,  and  forestalling  them  in  the  occupation  and 
traile  of  the  country  bordering  the  river.  This  party  experienced  so 
many  difliculties  and  delays  in  crossing  the  Uocky  Mountains  that  they 
wem  obliged  to  winter  near  tho  headwaters  of  the  Columbia  under  the 
tiftysecond  ]KU^llel  of  latitude. 

In  the  spring  of  1811  they  hastened  down  the  river,  building  huts  and 
raising  tiags  at  various  places  by  way  of  taking  {Hissesslon  of  the  coun- 
try, and  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  on  the  15tli  day  of  July,  and 
found,  much  to  their  chagrin,  that  they  had  b'sen  forestalled  by  Aster's 
sea  party. 

Mr.  Thompson  and  his  party  wore  the  first  white  persons  who  had 
navigated  tho  Cpiwr  Columbia,  or  traversed  any  part  of  the  country 
draincil  by  it. 

Eight  days  after  Mr.  Tliompson's  arrival  at  Astoria  Mr.  David  Stuart, 
one  of  the  Astoria  partners,  with  a  dcta<-limeut  set  out  on  a  voyage  up 
the  river  to  eitablish  a  trading  i>ost  in  the  interior.  The  place  selected 
wivs  the  level  prairie  at  tho  junction  of  the  Okinakane  and  Colnmbia, 
which  point  was  reached  on  the  Ist  of  Septembei',  1811.    This  i)ost  was 


COLUMItlA    RIVER. 


91 


occupied  for  many  yonrs  uiid  wiw  lui  iuii>ortant,  center  of  the  fin-  trade. 
Now,  however,  no  white  men  live  near  it,  and  it  han  Imwh  so  completely 
deatroyod  that  not  a  vestige  of  it  remains. 

In  the  following  year,  1812,  Fort  Spokane,  or,  as  it  wiis  commoidy  tlen- 
ignatoil,  Spokane  llonsc,  wan  established  by  a  party  of  Astorians  nn<lor 
Mr  Clarke. .  This  was  sitnattMl  near  the  Junction  of  the  8|>okane  and 
Little  Spokane  Kivers,  p»  they  an<i  now  designated. 

.Trading  (Mists  ha«l  previously  buen  osttvblishe4l  by  the  Northwest  Fur 
Company  in  the  (•Mathoml  and  Koot^tnny  ctmntTies. 

From  Fort  Okinakane  and  Sitokane  House,  parties  supplied  with 
goo4ls  were  sent  out  to  trade  with  the  Indians  and  collect  furs,  and  to 
examine  the  country,  ]>artioularly  in  reference  to  its  fur-pro<lucing 
qualities  and  the  character  and  numlior  of  its  Indian  inhabitants.  In 
the  autumn  of  1811,  after  building  the  fort,  Mr.  Staart  left  Okinakane 
and  proceeded  up  the  river  of  that  name,  tracing  it  to  its  sonrt-e;  he 
then  crossed  over  to  the  Thompson  llivcr  and  winterct!  amonp  a  im>w- 
erful  nation  called  the  She-Waps  (now  written  Shuswaps).  'le  re- 
tunieil  to  Fort  Okinakane  in  March,  1812,  and  brought  the  first  authen- 
tic information  concerning  the  country  which  ho  hail  visited.  From 
Spokane  House  Mr.  Fillet  conducted  an  exiieditiou  into  the  Kootenay 
country  and  gained  much  information  concerning  it.  As  illustrative  of 
the  hostility  existing  l)etweeu  the  different  fur  companies  it  is  recorded 
that  he  met  and  fought  a  dnel  with  Mr.  Mantour,  the  agent  of  the 
Northwest  Company — pistols  at  six  paces — in  which  afiair  neither  were 
mortally  wounded. 

Mr.  Farnham,  from  the  same  {tost,  crossed  the  Bitter  lioot  and  Cteur 
<l'Al(^ne  Mountains,  and  visite<l  the  Selish  or  Flat  Head  country,  seeing 
much  of  the  region  and  iMlding  largely  to  the  store  of  knowle«lge  con- 
cerning the  basin  between  the  Itocky  and  Hitter  lioot  Mounuiins. 

Mr.  McKenzio  cstAblislied  a  temporary  trading  (mst  among  the  groat 
Sha-hap-tan  or  Nez  rerc6  nation,  antl  luarniMl  what  he  i^miUl  al)out  the 
headwaters  of  the  Snake.  These  Indians,  however,  wenv  found  to  ite 
more  «levotod  to  war  and  InifTalo  hunting  than  to  the  hard  drudgery  in- 
cident to  the  taking  of  beaver.  They  were  rich  in  horses  antl  able  to 
]>rocuro  all  their  necessities  by  the  sale  of  their  steeds.  In  conscquenc;e 
the  trading  post  among  them  was  abandonc<l. 

A  number  of  books  have  been  written  and  published  giving  accounts 
of  the  atlventuros  and  expeditions  of  these  early  fur  tnulers,  which  con- 
tain much  valuable  information,  and  are  interesting  remling  as  giving 
the  first  accounts  of  large  portions  of  the  country.  The  most  noteworthy 
of  these  works  are  the  volumes  of  Alexander  lioss  on  the  "Fur  Hun- 
ters of  the  Far  VF<»<,"  Ross  Cox's  "Adventureii  on  the  Columbia,'"  "Fran- 
chere^H  Narrative,^  lioss's  "Adventuret  of  the  Jimt  settlers  on  the  Oregon 
or  Columbia  River.'"  AH  tliew  men  were  clerks  and  partners  in  the  fur 
companies  of  whose  transactions  bhey  treat.    To  these  must  Ite  wldeil 


98 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


t!  I 


9 


Antoria,  Wasliington  Irving's  cliarming  acoontit  of  Astor'a  groat  enter- 
prise. 

In  the  fall  of  1813,  the  fortunes  of  war  then  raging  between  the 
TJnitefl  States  and  Great  Britain  compelled  the  transfer  of  the  Astor 
or  Piiciflo  Fnr  Company  to  the  NortJiwost  Pur  Company,  whioh,  from 
this  time,  carried  on  the  trade  with  the  Indians  which  had  been  com- 
menced by  the  former. 

From  this  time  onward  for  many  years  the  history  of  the  Cdumbia 
River  country  is  the  history  of  the  operations  of  the  Great  Northwest 
and  Ilndson's  Bay  Companies,  and  of  the  efforts  of  private  parties  to 
get  a  Shan*  in  the  proflts  of  the  fur  trade. 

The  quarrels  continually  going  on  between  the  companies  and  pri- 
vate parties  caused  attention  to  be  directed  to  the  country,  and  itlnngan 
to  be  talked  about,  and  emigration  schemes  to  be  discussed. 

In  1818  Fort  Nez  Perc6,  or  Walla  Walla,  was  built  on  the  Columbia, 
about  eleven  miles  below  the  Snake,  where  Wallula  now  stands.  This 
it  was  de8igne<i  to  make  the  headquarters  of  the  fur  trade  cast  of  the 
Cascade  Mountains. 

In  1821  the  Hudson's  Bay  V  nipany  and  the  Northwest  Company 
were  merged  into  one,  and  the  muted  company  then  worked  with  all  its 
energy,  pushing  its  trade,  aud  holding  its  monopoly  against  all  comers. 

In  1824  the  headquarters  of  the  trade  was  amoved  from  Fort  George 
or  Astoria  to  Vancouver,  and  the  old  Fort  Vancouver  was  built.  This 
was  tlie  chief  and  central  point  of  the  commercial  transactions  of  the 
entire  Northwest  for  many  years. 

Missionaries  began  now  to  arrive  and  settle  among  the  Indians,  and 
a  few  ndventnrour,  emigrants  to  drift  in,  some  by  sea  and  some  by  land. 

The  (Government  of  the  Unite<l  States  sent  agents  to  examine  into  and 
report  up<m  the  condition  and  prospects  of  this  western  Columbian 
country,  and  the  exiiediency  of  erecting  a  military  and  naval  establish- 
ment on  the  Columbia  began  to  be  discussed  among  the  authorities  at 
Washington. 

The  geographical  knowledge  of  the  cx)nntry  was  greatly  augmented 
in  the  years  1832-'33-'34  by  the  examiuationa  and  surveys  of  Captain 
Bonneville.  He  spent  the  winter  of  1832-';i3  about  the  headwaters  of 
Salmon  River,  and  learned  a  groat  deal  about  that  section  of  the  country. 
During  the  winter  of  1833-'34  he  visited  the  Columbia,  passing  down 
the  Snake  River  Valley  through  the  Grand  Bonde  and  over  the  Blue 
Mountains  to  Walla  Wp  la.  He  returned  to  Bear  River,  and  again  in 
1834  he  ma<ie  a  second  visit  to  the  Columbia. 

Captain  Bonneville's  maps  are  the  first  to  correctly  represent  the 
hydrography  of  the  regions  west  of  the  liocky  Mountains,  and  deter- 
mine the  existence  of  the  great  interior  basins  without  outletit  to  the 
wean,  to  prove  the  non-existence  of  the  Buenaventura  and  other  hypo- 
thetical rivers,  and  to  reduce  the  Willanjette  to  its  pr.ti)er  length. 

The  exploring  exi>edition  under  Commander  Charles  Wilkes  of  the 


COLUMniA   RIVER. 


M 


United  States  Navy  filled  np  with  antheiitin  information  another  great 
blank  in  the  maps  of  this  western  country. 

The  expedition  arrived  in  Orepon  in  1H41,  wlion  a  party  under  Tjiou- 
tenant  Johnson  was  dispatohecl  up  the  Nisqually,  crossed  the  Cascmlo 
Mountains  near  Mount  Kanier,  and  reached  theColnnibin  near  the  ntoutli 
of  the  Wenatchee.  Tiience  they  jirocealed  up  the  rivt  v  to  Fort  Okina 
kane,  on  to  the  month  of  the  Spokane,  and  np  to  Fort  Colvillo.  They 
then  tnrned  south,  and  going  through  the  Golville  Valley,  visiting  Walk- 
er and  Eel's  Mission,  and  reached  the  Kooskooskia  or  Clearwater  a1>out 
forty  miles  below  where  Lewis  and  Clarke  struck  it,  and  kee]»ing  to  the 
west  went  to  Fort  Walla  Walla.  From  Walla  Walla  the  party  kept  up 
the  Yakima  Kivor  to  its  source,  and  crossing  the  mountains  reached  the 
Nisqually  and  the  point  from  whence  they  started. 

In  this  expedition  the  Columbia  was  surveyed  np  as  far  as  the  Walla 
Walla,  and  a  party  was  sent  nj)  the  Willamette  Valley,  and  crossed 
over  to  the  sources  of  the  Sacramento,  which  river  they  followed  down 
to  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco. 

The  next  givat  explorer  to  api^ear  upon  the  scene  is  Capt.  John  C.  FrC' 
niont.  This  active,  energetic,  and  inti-epid  man,  who  has  lieen  duhln-d 
the  Or  eat  American  Path  Finder,  and  whose  travels  and  a<lventures  have 
been  more  talked  abont  and  written  about  and  popularized  than  have 
those  of  any '•ther  American  explorer,  in  1843  crossed  over  from  the 
Great  Salt  Lake  Basin  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Snake  Hiver.  lie  fol- 
loweil  on  down  this  and  Boisd  itiver  to  the  mouth  of  the  lattttr,  where 
he  crossed  the  Snake  and  kept  on  down  it  to  Burnt  Itiver,  np  which  he 
pioceeded  to  ics  sources,  and  then  crossed  the  Blue  Mountains  and  en- 
t«re<l  the  valley  of  the  Walla  Walla,  and  followe<l  it  to  its  Junction  with 
the  Columbia.  From  this  point,  at  whii>h  was  sitnatt'd  old  Fort  Walla 
Walla,  or  Noz  Perc6,  he  traveled  by  land  and  water  to  Fort  Vancouver, 
where  he  arrived  in  November,  1843. 

Leaving  Vancouver  after  a  short  stay,  Fremont  proceeded  to  the 
Dalles,  and  thence  up  the  valley  of  the  Des  Chutes  until  near  its  head, 
when  'le  left  it  and  crossetl  over  a  low  tiud)ered  country  into  the  upiter 
portion  of  the  Klamath  Basin.  Here  he  turneil  east  and  visited  Sum- 
mer Lake,  Lake  Abort,  and  Christmas,  or  Wanier  Lakes,  and  thence  on 
to  Pyramid  Lake  and  the  south.  The  latter  part  of  his  jonrnt^y  was 
jHirformed  amidst  the  snows  and  cold  of  winter,  and  his  party  iMTformed 
almost  incredible  labor,  and  suft'ered  terrible  hardships. 

During  all  the  long  years  in  v;hich  the  Oregon  n^gion  was  1)eing  first 
exjdored  and  settled,  a  dispute  htul  heen  going  on  between  the  United 
States  and  Great  Britain  in  regard  to  its  ownership,  which  at  diH'orent 
times  waxed  so  fierce  that  it  threatened  war  between  the  two  countries. 

Fortunately  an  arrangement  was  finally  arrived  at,  and  the  l»oundary 
line  Ix^tween  the  British  and  American  possessions  fixed  at  the  forty- 
ninth  parallel  of  latitude.  On  the  15th  of  June,  1H4G,  the  tritaty  was 
signeil  which  gave  to  our  country  the  extrusive  Oregon  region,  com- 


94 


COLTIMBIA  RIVER. 


I 


V  ,' 


posing  tho  present  State  of  Oregon,  and  the  TerritorioB  of  Wasliington 
and  Iilulio.  This  groat  region  was  organized  into  a  Territory  by  act  of 
(Congress,  api^oved  Angust  14,  1848,  and  on  Maroli  3,  1849,  General 
JoRepli  Lane,  the  first  Territorial  governor,  arrived  at  Oregon  City,  and 
proclaimed  the  inaiignration  of  the  new  regime. 

About  this  time  strange  rumors  began  to  circulate  through  the  popu- 
lous portions  of  the  East;  rumors  from  the  regions  of  tho  setting  sun,  far 
Iwynnd  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  mmors  of  rivers  and  mountains  of  gold 
in  the  t)eautiful  sunny  land  so  lately  wrested  from  the  swarthy,  cruel 
Spaniards.  Days  and  months  pas8e<l  on  and  these  mmors,  ever  in- 
creasing in  their  grandeur,  flew  to  the  East,  and  soon  there  were  to  l)0 
seen  countless  multitudes  slowly  and  laboriously  crossing  the  plains  and 
mountains,  or  crowded  in  ships,  coming  by  Oajie  Horn  or  the  Isthmus, 
all  coming  with  inflamed  imaginations  to  worship  at  the  fateful  golden 
sbrino. 

In  the  minds  of  those  inclined  to  wander,  there  was  then  no  room  for 
Oregon  and  her  nnromantic  prospects ;  the  lust  for  gold  and  swift  and 
countless  riclios  inspired  all  and  left  place  for  nothing  else.  So  Oregon 
and  her  noble  river  wore  left  waiting,  waiting  during  many  a  month  and 
year,  for  the  allurements  of  her  golden  southern  sister  to  prove  to  many* 
a  myth  and  a  delusion. 

Soon,  among  the  comfortless,  hungry,  blood-stained  camps  of  Califor- 
nia, it  1)egan  to  be  talked  about  that  gold  could  be  procured  from  the 
soil  and  amidst  the  plains  and  forests  of  Oregon ;  gold  procured,  not  in 
a  wild  and  burning  struggle,  at  the  expense  of  all  noble  and  Christian 
attributes,  but  by  honest,  faithful  labor,  sure  of  reward,  amid  the  com- 
forts and  quiet  joys  of  home,  surrounded  by  the  refining  and  loving  care 
of  woman.  Then  the  tide  of  emigration  turned  Columbia-wanls,  and 
it  has  never  ceased;  those  who  came,  came  as  the  Pilgrim  Patliers  to 
build  up  a  substantial  empire  fonnde<l  on  the  oidy  true  and  certain  foun- 
dation, the  honest  homes  of  honest  men  and  women. 

And  now  the  curtain  rises  again,  and  another  grand  idea  is  uplifted 
and  takes  liold  of  the  minds  of  all  men  who  are  interested  in  Oregon, 
and  in  the  unity  and  prosperity  of  onr  whole  country.  It  is  the  idea  ot 
uniting  the  Eaat  and  the  West,  wedding  them  together  by  tlie  iron 
bands  of  a  traus-contincntrl  railroad.  To  find  a  proper  route  for  the 
iron  horse  to  travel  through  the  groat  interior  country,  government  aid 
was  invoked  and  cheerfully  given,  and  in  1863  was  organized  the  Pacific 
liailroad  surveying  expedition,  which,  more  than  all  others,  has  added 
accuracy  and  extent  to  our  knowledge  of  the  geography  of  the  northern 
and  northwest  portions  of  the  United  States. 

To  Gov.  I.  I.  Stevens,  of  Washington  Territory,  was  assigne<l  the 
general  charge  of  the  surveys  lietween  the  forty-seventh  and  forty-ninth, 
and  to  Capt^  George  B.  McClellan,  of  the  Corps  of  Engineers,  was  as- 
signed the  western  division,  who  9  duties  were  to  explore  the  passes  of 


r-ti 


COLUMBIA  BIVEB. 


•6 


the  CuMsudu  KauKo,  meeting  the  eastern  party  Itetweun  that  range  ami 
the  Kooky  Mountains. 

The  rei)orta  and  maps  of  the  Paciflu  Itailroad  SurvuyH  are  unibracuti  in 
Uiirtcen  quarto  volumes,  and  contain  a  vast  amount  uf  uutheutiu  and 
valuable  infonuation. 

During  the  continuation  of  these  surveys,  in  18S3-'5<l-'55,  the  Colum- 
bia itself  ana  many  of  its  branches  were  examined  and  surveyed. 

Lieut.  John  MuUan,  in  chiu-ge  of  one  of  the  surveying  parties,  operated 
extensively  in  the  region  lying  between  the  llocky  Mounttiiiis  and  tliu 
Bitter  Itoot  Mountains,  and  down  by  the  Koos-koos-kia  to  Walla  Wallii. 

Lieutenant  Saxton,  accompanied  by  Lieuts.  Arnold  audlVImtfevlj,  went 
from  the  Dikllus  via  Walla  Walla,  Palouse,  H|Hikane,  and  (Jtuwr  d'AICme 
liivers  to  Clarke's  Fork,  Bitter  Itoot  Fork,  and  thence  to  the  mission 
of  Saint  Mary.  Lieut.  Macfeely  returned  to  the  Dalles  by  the  Nck  Pei-ce 
trail  up  the  Bitter  Itoot  and  westward  through  diiUouIt  mountains  to  the 
Koos-koos-kia. 

Lieutenant  Douelson  left  Fort  Benton  and  traveled  in  a  southwesterly 
dire<^tiou,  crossing  the  main  range  of  the  Bookies  at  Cadotte's  Pass, 
thence  down  the  Blackfoot  Fork  to  Saint  Mary's.  He  then  passinl  from 
the  Bitter  Itoot  to  the  Jocko,  and,  following  the  lu.^ti^r  to  its  mouth, 
entered  the  valley  of  Clarke's  Fork,  followed  it  to  a  point  twelve  miles 
below  L»ke  Pend  d'Oreille,  crossed  to  the  Spokane  Kiver,  and  proceeded 
about  twelve  miles  west,  where  he  joined  Captain  MuClt^Uan's  party. 
Thence  following  an  Indian  trail,  crossing  the  Snake  at  the  mouth  of 
Palouse,  the  party  went  to  Walla  Walla. 

Mr.  A.  W.  Tinkham  and  Mr.  F.  W.  Lander  ma<le  reconnaissances  t^-oin 
Fort  Benton  westward  to  the  Columbia  waters.  Dr.  (jeorgo  Snckley 
descended  the  Bitter  Boot,  Clarke's  Fork,  and  Columbia  Kivers  in  a 
canoe,  making  several  portages  and  arriving  safely  at  Vancouver. 

The  main  jiarty  of  the  western  division  under  Capt.  George  B.  Mc- 
Clellan  left  Vancouver  and  proceeded  in  a  northerly  direction  to  the 
Cathlapootl ;  thence  in  an  easterly  direction  south  of  Mounts  Saint  Hel- 
ens and  Adams;  thence  northwest,  crossing  the  Atalumm, Nachess,  and 
Wenass  liivers,  up  the  valley  of  the  Upper  Yakima  to  the  Yakima  Pjish 
which  was  examined;  thenoe  he  proceeded  to  Kittitas;  thence  north 
to  the  Columbia ;  thence  up  its  right  bank  to  the  Ukinakane,  which  wtis 
examined  up  to  Osooyoos  Lake.  From  Osooyoos  Lake  the  party  crossed 
the  dividing  ridge  and  reached  Kettle  Uiver,  which  they  followed  to  the 
Columbia  at  old  Fort  Colville ;  thence  they  followed  up  the  Colville 
Valley  and  over  to  the  Si>okane,  where,  being  joiuo<l  by  Governor 
Stevens,  the  whole  party  »»roceede«l  to  W  Ua  Walla. 

Lieut.  S.  Mowry  examined  a  route  leading  from  Wenass  Kiver  in  a 
southerly  direction  to  the  Dalles  of  tlie  Columbia.  Lieut.  11.  J.  }Io<lges 
joined  McClellan's  party  at  Kittitas,  having  marched  from  Fort  Steila- 
coom.  His  course  was  easterly  to  the  Stkamish  Kiver;  thence  along 
that  stream  to  the  Naohess  Pass;  thenoe  along  Nachess  Kiver. 


96 


COLUMBIA   RIVEB. 


\f'   •: 


Mr.  Tiiikliain,  with  ten  Walla  Walla  Indians,  in  January  of  1854, 
croNNed  tliu  (JiimciuIu  MountitinB  by  the  Bnoqualaniie  Pasa  and  followed 
down  tlio  8nu<|uuluiiiie  River  to  ISeattle. 

Lieutenant  Giover  niatle  a  winter  journey  in  January  and  Fubnniry, 
1851,  with  a  do^-train,  from  Fort  Benton,  via  Fort  Owen,  Clarke'H  Fork, 
and  Fort  Walla  Walla,  to  the  main  Columbia  Kiver. 

1m  the  fall  of  1854  Mr.  Doty,  with  a  party,  left  Fort  Benton  for  Olyni 
)>ia.  Ue  went  ap  the  Teton  Uivor  and  eroaaed  over  to  the  Bitter  Itoot 
Uivor.  Leaving  the  Bitter  Boot  Valley,  he  proceedetl  by  way  of  the 
Uaint.l{v{;iH  Borgia  Uivor  to  the  Gwur  d'Al^ne  Mission,  whence  he  pur- 
Muud  a  H()uth\testerly  course  to  Fort  Walla  Walla.  Leaving  Walla 
Widla,  he  went  up  the  Columbia  to  the  Yakima  Kiver ;  thence  up  that 
stream  to  its  source ;  tlieuce  through  the  Yakima  Pass  to  Olympia. 

In  1855  an  exploration  and  survey  for  a  raUrosul  route  from  the  Hiiu- 
rameuto  to  the  Columbia  was  uiatle  by  Lieutenants  Williamson  and  Ab- 
bot, of  tiie  Topographical  Engineers.  As  a  matter  of  curiosity,  I  may 
here  state  that  the  escort  of  this  expedition  was  commanded  by  Lients. 
II.  G.  Gibson,  George  Crook,  J.  B.  Hood,  and  P.  H.  Sheridan,  all  soon 
to  achifvc  great  distinction  in  the  civil  war.  The  Des  Chutes  and  Wil- 
lamette liivers  and  their  valleys  were  very  carefully  examined  by  parties 
of  this  expedition. 

A  great  mass  of  information  concerning  the  geography  of  the  Colum- 
bian Basin  and  other  portions  of  the  great  west  had  been  collected  and 
wits  on  Ale  in  the  departments  at  Washington.  Most  of  this  was  in  the 
form  of  reconnaissauces,  and  few  of  these  possessed  any  groat  accuracy, 
and  the  geographical  positions  were  very  uncertain  and  ofttimos  con- 
flicting. 

To  Lieut.  G.  K.  Warren,  of  the  Coriw  of  Engineers,  was  given  the  task 
of  compiling  all  this  information  on  a  map  of  the  country  between  the 
Mississippi  liiver  and  the  Pacific  Ocean.    Uis  instructions  were  to — 


Mil 
J,  [ 


Ciirufiilly  i-uoil  ovory  report  and  examine  every  map  of  Borvey,  rooonnaissancfl, 
1111(1  travel  which  could  he  obtainml,  to  oscortaiu  their  several  values  and  to  oniltotly 
the  authentic  information  in  the  map. 

This  <luty  he  completed,  and  submitted  his  report  on  the  1st  of  March 
185tS.  liis  tiisk  involved  an  immense  amount  of  patient,  i>aiu8taking 
research  and  care,  combined  with  the  soundest  judgment,  and  was  most 
successfully  performed,  a-'d  the  map  was  for  many  years  the  foundation 
for  all  the  maps  of  the  great  west. 

Since  the  publication  of  General  Warren's  map  the  knowledge  of  the 
geography  of  the  Columbian  Basin  has  increased,  not  so  much  by  any 
new  discoveries  of  magnitude  as  in  accuracy  and  detail. 

The  land  surveys  under  the  Interior  Department  have  added  much  to 
our  knowledge  of  the  settled  portions,  and  the  scouts,  reconnaissances, 
and  itineraries  of  ofticors  of  the  Army  have  added  much  more  to  our 
knowledge  of  the  settled  portion  and  of  the  wild  regions  through  which 


I?     . 


COLUMBIA   BIVER. 


97 


the  AruiyiH  genunilly  obliged  to  movo  iu  ita  coiiHiuto  and  doaliiigH  with 
the  IiuliiiiiH. 

Ill  tliu  rou4)iitl.Y  piililiHliod  iiiii|i  of  tlie  Milititry  l)H|uirtinuiit  ot'tliit  (Jo- 
lunibia,  wliicli  euibritcuH  ucurly  all  of  tliu  ColiiinlHun  Diutiii  lying  within 
our  1'erritory,  coinpiled  by  nio  whilv  on  duty  oh  uhiuf  onginoor  (»f  thu 
de[Hirtnient,  I  have  given  nil  thu  toiiogrophicHi  and  euononiiu  intor- 
nnition  whioii  I  nouhl  obtain.  It  :i-  foundtnl  on  the  moHt  itMtent  Wat- 
Department  map  publiHhu<I  by  the  Clii««f  of  EngineerH ;  the  fiund  Oni<-.u 
niajm  and  laiul-  HurvcyH  up  to  187U  and  '80,  the  Northern  I'lutiliu  and 
other  railrwul  survoyH,  the  map  of  Lieut.  Itolwrt  I'ietcher,  illuHtrating 
Gonund  IIowanl'H  Nez  I'eree  campaign,  numerouH  rtteonnaitwancAM  and 
■itiuerariu8  of  officers  which  hiul  never  been  (Hiinpiled,  and  inlbrnuition 
derived  from  converHations  with  ofllcerH  and  others  familiar  with  jMir- 
tioHH  of  the  country.  To  thin  was  a<lded  the  surveys  made  by  myself 
and  assistants  in  1878-'79  and  '80.  These  surveys  extend  over  the  coun- 
try iu  Southern  and  Central  Oregon  east  of  the  Cascades  and  lying  along 
the  Dcii  Chutes  and  John  Day  rivers  and  Klamath,  Bummer,  AlHtrt  and 
Warner  Lakes ;  the  Great  I'lain  of  the  Columbia  in  Washington  Terri- 
tory and  Idaho,  e8i)ecially  the  hitherto  little  I  lowu  regions  of  Moses 
Lake,  Moses  Cou]6o,  and  the  Grand  CoultSe,  the  quadrilateral  lying  Itu- 
twcen  the  Snake,  Salmon,  Clearwater,  and  South  l<'ork  of  the  Clear- 
water iu  Idaho ;  Southwestern  Oregon ;  and  the  regions  of  the  Skagit 
and  Sauk  rivers  iu  Washington  Territory. 

A  great  deal  of  kuowle<Igo  is  obtained  vneix  year  from  various  sources, 
and  it  is  ho|)ed  that  an  edition  of  the  map,  with  all  imimrtant  changes, 
may  bo  imblishcd  every  two  years  at  least 

In  compiling  this  map  I  conld  not  help  being  struck  with  the  great 
lack  of  information  concerning  cerUtin  itortions  of  the  country  which  it 
is  intended  to  represent.  There  are  large  aresis  containing  many  hun- 
dreds of  square  miles  which  are  comparatively  unknown,  and  what  lit- 
tle is  known  is  of  the  most  inaticurate  and  untrustworthy  character,  and 
that  which  is  put  uiKtn  the  mai>8  is  largely  hypothetical. 

The  regions  to  which  I  would  particularly  allude  are  thu  Olympic 
Mountain  region ;  the  region  Iwunded  on  the  north  by  the  international 
boundary  line,  on  the  east  by  the  Itocky  Mountains,  on  the  south  by  thu 
Columbia  and  Wunatchce  rivers,  on  the  west  by  Puget  Sound ;  tho 
regions  of  tho  Saint  Joseph  and  Clearwater  rivers  in  Northern  Idaho ; 
and  esi>ecially  the  regions  of  the  Salmon,  Weiser,  and  Tayette  rivers 
in  Central  Idaho. 

There  ai-e  thousands  of  stjuare  miles  in  these  regions  of  which  no  ac- 
curate information  has  ever  been  obttdned.  These  i-egions  nuty  at  any 
time  become  the  theater  of  Indian  wai-s  iu  which  a  certnin  knowledgu 
of  the  country  wonld  be  of  inestimable  value  and  save  the  goverinnent, 
iu  money  alone,  more  than  it  would  cost  to  make  a  satisfactory  survuy 
of  all  the  unknowu  portions. 

Gommertiial  enterprises  are  poshing  chcir  way  into  chese  regions,  im- 
S.  Ex.  186 13 


98 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


|N>rt«iit  traiiHiNirtiitioii  roiit«H  may  piiHH  tliniiiKh  them,  and  nil  br»noh«M 
of  tlio  ^MVorniiMMit  lut  wull  »h  lii-r  priviito  vitiKvim  mid  coritorationH  will 
WMiii  nM|iiiru  itcMHiiplHU)  nnd  tliontiigli  kiiuwItMlgv  oftliu  whole  uoiiiitry. 
I  thoraforu  call  uttoiitlori  to  thoHO  iiiikiiowii  uud  oiiBurvvyud  ivgiuiiH, 
and  the  iiuuti  of  iiioiiuy  to  carry  on  the  iiocvHtuiry  cxuiiaiiatioiiH  uud 
HiirvcyH  therein,  aud  U>  flx  the  Keographicul  iNwitiouH  of  a  number  of  ini- 
]H»rljuit  aud  central  {MtintH  in  the  department  by  aHtrouomicul  obticrva- 
tions  and  comi>utatious. 


CUAPTKU    iX, 


i 

I 
III 


U'\ 


't\ 


THE   UEOhOUlVAL   HISTORY  OF  THE  CASCADE  MOUNTAINa  AUD   THE 

COLVMlllA  ItlVER. 

In  onior  to  nndemtniid  and  fully  compn;liend  the  various  featuren  of 
tbiH  country,  it  ih  higldy  deairablo  and  etwential  to  know  it«  gindogical 
history,  its  building  up,  and  the  changes  which  h'lvotakou  place  reduc- 
ing it  to  its  prcHciit  condition.  This  is  depicted  with  groat  distinctness 
u|)on  itM  face  and  in  it^  deep  caiions,  and  is  easily  read  by  the  student 
of  nature. 

If  wo  turn  Imck  to  tho  tlrst  pages  of  the  geological  history  of  tliiH 
continent,  we  shall  see  that  at  the  beginning  of  the  Pal(x>Koic  era  nearly 
all  our  present  land  was  under  water,  not  having  yet  emerged  from  the 
primeval  seas.  In  the  area  of  the  United  States  two  strips  existed, 
forming  the  nuclei  about  which  has  been  built  the  land  as  we  now 
see  it.  One  of  tliesi>,  strips  was  the  Appalachian  Mountain  chain  ;  the 
other  the  Itocky  Mountain  chain.  With  the  former  we  have  nothing  to 
do  except  to  draw  ih)m  it  lessons  applicable  to  the  latter.  By  the  Itocky 
Mountain  chain  is  not  meant  simply  a  range  of  iMiaks,  but  a  grand  and 
wide  l)elt  of  country  in  form  of  a  gigantic  fold,  from  which,  in  later 
times,  the  present  ranges  and  iwaks  have  been  sculiitiinxl  by  erosiou. 
All  to  the  west  of  this  chain,  whore  now  stand  the  Sierra  Nevula,  Cas- 
mule,  aud  Coast  ranges,  was  buried  beneath  the  occitn.  Many  rivers 
existetl  then  eiiting  away  at  the  western  sloiies  of  this  great  uplifted 
range,  and  deiiositing  tho  d6bris  along  the  shores  of  the  pristine  sea, 
fonning  thus  sedimentary  dei>osits  of  great  depth  and  extent. 

This  doiiosition  of  sediment  went  on  during  the  Paleozoic  ent,  and 
the  whole  Triassic  and  Jurassic  iMjriods  of  the  Mesozoic  era  until  an 
enonnously  thick  mass  of  off-shore  deiwsits  hitd  aeonmulated. 

This  groat  marginal  se&bottom  became  the  theater  of  iutouse  aqneo- 
ignoous  action  in  itH  deeply-buried  strata,  producing  a  lino  o."  wotikness 
which,  yielding  to  the  horizontal  thrust  prodncod  by  the  secular  con- 
traction of  the  interior  of  the  eaith,  was  crushed  together  and  swollen 
up  into  tho  Sierra  Nevada  and  Cascade  ranges  at  the  end  of  the  Juras- 
sio  period.    The  Cascade  range  thus  prodnoed  was  for  ftom  presenting 


COLUMIilA    RIVF.n. 


99 


any  Riinilnrity  to  tlin  rnnf^e  an  wn  now  hoo  It.  Ah  far  aH  enn  Iw  aHoor- 
taincd,  it  was  a  mnge  of  not  vory  gnat  liniKl't,  bnt  probably  liiKlu^r  to 
tlift  Honth  than  to  tli«  north.  Tliin  ran^o  oxiHtcil  for  nnknown  mnturioH, 
and  in  iU  tnrn  wan  tlio  tlioator  of  ttroHion  and  of  ]ilant  ((rowtli,  and  wiih 
roani(Ml  ovor  l>y  the  wondurnil  nxtinot  aniinalH  of  tlifl  On^t4UM'4)nH  and 
Tertiary  iM^riodn.  It  wan  not  yot  «»vorod  by  tlie  Rroat  hiva  flow  and  nionn  ■ 
t4iln  mngo  Hoon  to  lio  durnirilMxl,  bnt  ioHtaiul  Ity  foniHtA  of  (H>niferH  and 
oakH. 

Wliero  tlin  Cohimbia  River  breakH  tbrongli  the  (^aaciMle  Monntains 
them  are  fonnd,  iN^noatb  the  overlyinp:  lava: 

Pirat.  Along  the  watiir's  edge,  and  for  aJ»on(  fifteen  feet  npwanl,  a 
very  eoarne  oonRlonierate  of  roundml  iiorphyritie  i><d)ltl(>M  and  lN>wldera 
of  all  Hi/.eR  up  to  five  or  Hix  feet  in  diameter,  cohering  by  an  iniperity.tly 
lithifled  earthy  paste. 

Beooiid.  Altove  this  conglomerate  is  a  very  distinct,  irrejjnlar,  <ild 
gronnd  mirface  lied,  in  whieli  are  found  Hilittifle<I  ntumpH,  with  their  rootA 
spreading  out  over  twenty  Awt  in  diameter  and  ]>enetrating  into  the 
bowlder  material  Iwnoath  and  evidently  in  iiitu.  This  is  undonbteilly 
an  old  forest  ground  surfnee. 

Thinl.  Itesting  directly  on  this  ground  surface,  and  therefore  inclosing 
the  erect  Hlum]>s,  is  a  layer  of  stratified  sandstone,  two  or  three  feet  thick, 
(illeil  with  Iteauti^il  inipresHions  of  leaves  of  several  kinds  of  foii^st 
ti-ees,  possibly  of  tln^  very  trees  about  whose  silicifled  bases  they  are  found. 
This  layer  is  not  (toHtinuous,  like  the  ground  surface  on  which  it  restA. 

Fourth.  Above  this  stratifled  leaf-licariug  layer,  rests  a  coarse  con- 
glonoerate  similar  to  that  iMmeatli  at  the  water-level.  ScattertMl  alutut  in 
the  lower  part  of  this  upper  conglomerate  and  in  the  stnitilled  sand- 
stone, and  sometimes  lying  in  the  dirt-l>ed  lieneat.'  are  fragments  of 
tninks  and  branches  of  oaks  and  cx)nifers,  in  a  sibciflcd  or  liguitiziMl 
condition.    They  are  evidently  silicifleil  drifb-wood. 

Fifth.  Above  this  last  cx>nglomerat4),  atul  re»ting  upon  it,  rise  the  lay- 
ers of  lava,  mostly  columnar  basalt,  one  aliove  another,  to  a  height  of 
more  than  3,000  feet.* 

All  these  facts  were  noted  and  stndie<l  by  Professor  Le  Oonte,  who 
drew  the  following  onler  of  events  fWtm  them. 

First.  The  region  of  the  Cobunbia  Itiver  was  a  forest,  probably  a  val- 
ley, overgrown  by  conifers  and  oaks.  The  subsoil  of  this  forest  was  a 
O/oarse  Iwwlder  drift  produce<l  by  erosion  of  some  older  rocks. 

Secxjud.  Uy  excess  of  water,  either  by  floo<Is  or  changes  of  level,  the 
trees  were  kille^l,  their  leaves  shed  and  buried  in  mud,  and  their  trunks 
rotted  to  stumps. 

Third.  Tumultuous  and  r'tpid  deposit  of  coarse  drift  containing  drift- 
woo«l,  covered  np  the  forest  ground  and  the  still  remaining  stumps,  one 
hundred,  perhaps  several  hundred,  ^"at  in  thickness. 

Fourtli.  The  surfitce  thus  formeil  was  eroded  into  hills  and  dales. 


'Piofesaor  J.  Le  Conte,  in  Aiuerioau  Journal  Science  and  Arts,  1874,  Vuluuie  VII. 


100 


COLUMIilA    RIVRR. 


!i 


Fifth.  Tlinn  fnllowcMl  tho  ontbunit  of  Invn  in  Huccc^Miivn  flow^.,  porliniw 
for  II  loiiK  |»orio4l  «>f  time,  and  the  Hilicillnutidn  of  llio  w(mmI  anil  the 
t!««in«nt4tti<)n  of  tlio  ilrilt  by  tlin  |M«r«»)lutinn  of  Uio  hot  all(iilin«  watora 
coiitniniiitf  Hilica,  liH  linpiMtuH  no  ooninioul.y  in  Hnblava  tlrittit. 

Hixtli.  Finally  foll(»w<Ml  tlio  phm-chh  of  vntHion,  by  which  thr.  prnmint 
Hircani  channelH,  whether  main  or  tribnt^iry,  havo  liocn  cut  to  their 
eiiorinouN  depth. 

The  pn'ut,  uiaHNOH  of  Hedinient  Hont  down  to  the  Hea  n-oin  the  pHnuiry 
('iiNiMtde  ran^ts  forininK  a  thick  off-Hliorfl  de|K)Nit,  ptve  rine  in  itM  tnrn 
at  thif  end  of  the  Miocene  to  the  n])lieaval  of  the  Coaat  ranKO«  and,  eoinci- 
dently  tliurewith,  the  (JiUMuule  MonntainH  were  rent  ahniK  the  axin  into 
enorniouH  tlHHiiroH  from  which  ont|K)nred  the  ^riiud  lava  IhMxlH,  bnihIinK 
higher  tlie  inonntainH,  and  covorinK  the  country  for  K>**)ttt  diHtAitctut. 

ThiH  \h  jmtbably  the  ;n^Hiderit  and  inoHt  extniordinary  lava  How  which 
ever  t<Mik  plac^^  in  the  world,  covering;  uh  it  thm*  an  area  of  almnt 
2(H),04X)  Mpian^  ndles  of  the  WcHtorn  UtatcH  and  Territ^iricH.  Cyonuneuc- 
iiiK  in  Mitldle  Oalifornia  aH  Reparatn  HtroaniR,  in  Northern  ('alifornia  it 
iMHtonicHa  flood,  coniplet«ly  mantling  the  Hmaller  ii:e<|naliticH,  and  How- 
ioK  around  the  greater  inequaliticH.  In  Northern  v'n^gon  and  Wiwth- 
iugtini  it  lMJc«meH  an  abaolutoly  univoraal  flooil,  beneath  which  the 
whole  original  ftu;o  of  the  country,  with  itfi  hills  and  dahw,  monntaiuH 
and  valleyH,  lie  bnritMl  Heveral  thousand  feet.  It  citvent  the  griMtt^'r 
]»ortion  of  Northern  California  and  NorthwcHtern  Neviula,  nearly  the 
whole  of  Oregon,  WaHhington,  and  Idaho,  and  num  far  into  BritiHh  Co- 
lumbia on  the  north.  The  average  thickneHM  of  this  tremendouH  Hood 
Ih  jtrobably  not  far  from  2,<KH)  feet.  This  is  Hhown  where  the  Cobnnbia, 
DttH  CliuteN,  Bnake,  Halmon,  and  other  rivers  cut  through  it  U»  gn>at- 
CHt  tliicknesa  is  not  less  than  3,700  feet,  as  dcmonHtratotI  by  I'rofessor 
liC  Conte. 

To  produce  thisononnous  tliioknessmauy  sncccMHive  flows  took  place, 
and  very  long  iieriods  of  time  must  have  ola]tse4l  during  which  the  vol- 
canic actions  were  going  on. 

Along  (he  I>(^s  Chutes,  on  the  Simko  lliver  both  alN>ve  and  Itelow 
L(^wist4Mi,  and  on  tlie  Columbia  Itelow  Itock  Islan«l  Biv]tids,  and  in  other 
])la(;us,  the  colunnmr  bnAalt  lies  in  horizontal  layers,  well-nmrketl  jdains 
inti^rrupting  the  continuity  of  the  vertic:d  columns.  Magnificent  exam- 
I»leA  of  this  structni'c  are  found  in  the  basalts  of  the  CiihcmIo  range.  In 
tlu*  (irand  Cou]<^e  the  basaltic  walls  are  il-oni  300  to  (MM)  feet  in  height, 
anti  iH^tweeu  some  of  the  layers  there  is  a  w»ll-marke<I  stratum  of  soil, 
evidently  formed  dui-ing  a  period  between  two  successive  flows  of  lava 
by  the  disintegration  of  the  lava  rock. 

During  this  long  period  of  the  Casciule  eruptions,  the  Coast  range  was 
\mng  slowly  elevateil,  and  became,  in  its  turn,  the  theater  of  local  vol- 
canic action.  In  all  probability  this  htasil  action  was  not  very  severe, 
except  i)erhaps  in  the  case  of  the  Olympic  Mouutains  and  those  in 
Northern  California  and  Southern  C  -^gon. 


COMIMIIIA    RIVKR. 


101 


ir  tlin  tlienr;  of  tlio  formntioii  or  mniintitiii  nliiiitifi  by  iJio  n<]iuM)i(iii«>niiH 
nrtioii  tnkiiiK  place  in  <liM«p  «lo)iOHiUi  of  •MMliiiieiit  on  ninrKinnl  wu  Ik»I- 
loniH  in  tnie,  it  Ih  to  W  ox]N)«te<l  Mint  at  mtnw  tiiii«  tlinro  will  In^  itiiollior 
nin^c  <>lov»tm!  Titini  tlie  i'urillfl  to  tlio  wont  of  tlio  Vonnt  rnugi'^ ;  imil  il 
lliiM  Intti^r  followN  tiM'  exHni|il«  of  itM  prolotyix^,  the  (lofMuuloH,  it  will 
inve  birth  to  luvii  iUmnIh  ori^rwIit'lniinK  tlio  WillHinvttv  nnil  n\\  otlii^r  viil- 
leyH  lying  Itetweon  tlio  two  ninf^eH. 

Tlio  |iPrio«l  of  the  grcut  flnNuro  oniptionN  in  tlio  CikicndcA  tlrow  t4)  a 
cloM>  by  tlio  flKHiiros  iMHMtniinK  bUMtknl  up;  tlio  volciini«  iiction  vmn  con- 
r«*.ntrat4Hl  in  Honio  f<iw  localitioa,  nud  tlio  |icrio«l  of  flHHiin^  (M-uptiooM  wiih 
clmnKnl  to  a  ixriml  of  craU^r  oniplions.  Tliowt  crater  oniplionH  con- 
tinned  for  a  loii);  |M)rio<l,  in  Hoino  oamw  even  into  onr  own  tiiiieH.  anil  t^i 
tlicni  wo  owe  the  upbnihlinf;  of  tlioHO  lofty  hiiowcIiuI  i>eakH  wliioli  mteni 
to  III!  to  have  lieen  forever  loekeil  in  the  olnbra(M^  of  eternal  winter. 

('oinnieneinR  at  tlio  aoutheni  liounilur.y  of  UroKon,  the  ilrat  of  thene 
lieakH  IH  Mount  I'itt,  which  I  afimMuleil  in  1K7H,  anil  fonnil  it  a  iHuuitifiil 
cone  Hliaiieil  ntnicture,  coin])OfMMl  ondroly  of  volcanic  rock,  llankeil  on 
all  Hiiica  by  nniiierouH  ontlying  spam  anil  foot-hill  raiif^.  AlM)iit  it>« 
luuie  are  mvoral  Hniall  lakoH,  probably  of  };liu3ier  origin.  Thifl  peak  I 
fiMiiMl  to  lie  W,8I8  f«wt  above  nea  level. 

Forty  milea  north  of  Mount  Pitt  Btanils  Mount  Scott,  the  next  promi- 
nent peak  of  the  range.  Itetween  thefle  two  ]ieakH  the  range  in  Nome- 
what  hiw,  with  aevival  well-ileflnoil  iieaks  however,  the  highoMt  of  which 
iH  Union  Peak,  directly  west  of  Fort  Khunatli,  and  which  is  7,208  fiwt 
high.  Tlie  beautiful  level  baain,  lying  at  the  head  of  Klamath  Lake, 
ill  which  is  Bituated  Fort  Klamath,  ia  4,108  feet  above  the  (tea.  Tnivel- 
iiig  along  on  the  eiuitern  nloiiea  of  the  (!aHcadeH  we  found  the  noil  to  Ih« 
eoiii|M>M><I  of  very  light  voUMUiic  sand  and  aahea,  interHperHeil  with  haHal- 
tie  bowlders,  and  with  hero  and  tliore  an  exponcil  niaHH  of  riH'.k  ntHein- 
bliiig  a  trap  dike. 

Mount  Soott,  which  wo  found  to  be  0,010  feet  almve  the  noa,  liaa  tl  o 
Hame  general  featurea  which  oharacteriise  all  the  Caacaile  MoiiiitaiiiH  in 
the  aonthem  part  of  the  range.  It  ia  of  volcanic*  origin,  and  in  cxivered  on 
it«  eaatem  aide  with  the  aahea  and  light  d^bria  which  have  1i«<mi  carried 
over  from  the  weat,  and  which  form  a  comparatively  eaay  fllo|io  to  tlie 
^.;.mniit.  On  the  weat  the  blufi^  ant  alnioat  iH^rpendicular  wiiila  of 
igneoua  rock,  ragged  and  torn,  among  which  nestle  great  ma>.HeH  of 
8IIOW,  HhelteriMl  irom  the  aummer  aun,  and  forming  rcaervoira  of  waU\r 
which  irrigate  lieautiful  patchea  of  green  in  the  lowlanda  at  tl.eir  feet. 
To  the  aoatbweat,  following  down  along  theae  walla,  our  gave  at  ItiNt 
reateil  upon  one  of  the  moat  remarkable  and  iiitercating  fcivturea  of  na- 
tnre'a  handiwork.  In  the  calm  atillneaa  of  an  exquiaitc  Huiimier'H  day, 
lying  in  *«e  denae  and  lonely  wilderneaa,  we  aaw  Mystic  or  (rater  lAike, 
a  great  ei  iticflly  ahai»ed  baaiii  of  water  which  we  cHtimat'Ml  to  lie  live 
niilea  lon^  ind  three  niilea  wide,  witli  unbroken  clitT  walla  varying  from 
500  to  2,0u0  feet  in  altitude,  crowue<l  with  pinea  and  flrH.     A  little  conical 


102 


COLTTMBIA   RIVER. 


11 


jRlaiid,  like  ft  ciiulfir-cono,  coveretl  with  ficattoring  troes,  is  the  only  oc- 
impftiit  of  thiH  weird  lake.  There  is  probably  a  subterraneous  outlet  of 
the  lake  in  Sand  Creek,  which  flows  to  the  east,  and  is  absorbed  in  the 
waters  of  Klniiiat h  Marsh.  Monnt  Scott  is  nndonbtc<lly  a  portion  of  the 
eawUirn  rim  ot  i  lie  ancient  crater,  the  remainder  to  the  west  having  been 
carried  away  by  erosion,  assisted  probably  by  other  cause*.  Crater 
Lake,  with  its  conical  island,  occnpies  the  center  of  the  crater  of  this 
gigantic  old  volcano.  The  rim  of  the  lake  t/O  the  southwest  has  an 
altitude  of  7,14.3  feet,  and  at  this  point  the  lake  is  about  500  feet  Iwlow  it. 

It  seems  highly  ])robable  that  along  the  eastern  slop^  of  the  mount- 
ains, l)etween  Mounts  Pitt  and  Scott,  were  forine<l  the  glaciers  which, 
moving  to  the  south,  scooiK>d  out  the  Klamath  Baain  and  the  Klamath 
Lakes. 

The  portion  of  the  mountain  chain  from  Mount  Scott  on  the  south  tm 
Diamond  Peak  on  the  north  was  a  region  of  numerous  volcanoes  and  of 
very  extensive  local  lava  flows.  It  has  a  very  high  average  elevation,  and 
in  it  all  the  principal  rivers  of  Western  Oregon  have  their  soui-ces :  the 
Willamette,  running  to  the  northwest;  the  Dcs  Chutes  running  to  the 
northeast ;  the  headwaters  of  Klamath  Biver,  running  to  the  south  antl 
breaking  through  the  range  and  flowing  to  the  west ;  the  Rogue  Itiver, 
flowing  to  the  southwest;  and  the  TTmi)qua,  to  the  west  and  north. 

The  great  local  outflow  to  the  east  fonns  the  divide  separating  the 
headwaters  of  the  Des  Chutes  from  those  of  the  Klamath  system  of 
waters,  while  the  outflows  to  the  west  form  the  Calnpooia  Mountains, 
separating  the  Willamette  from  the  Umpqua  waters,  and  the  mount- 
ains se])arating  the  Uin})qna  from  the  Rogue  River  waters. 

Diamond  Peak  is  8,807  feet  high,  and  is  another  typicjil  high  peak  of 
the  Cascade  range.  The  peak  itself  gives  evidence  of  Imng  the  south- 
east portion  of  an  old  crater  rim,  from  four  to  seven  miles  i]i  diamef<>r, 
now  very  much  broken  away  to  the  west  <ind  fllleil  with  a  great  ma«s  of 
snow  which  has  crevasses  and  partakes  very  largely  of  the  nature  of  a 
glacier;  I  think  it  can  truly  bo  caiieil  a  glacier  on  a  small  scale.  About 
Diamond  Peak  are  scattered  here  and  there  volcanic  cones  and  little 
conical  monticules,  evidently  parasitic  volcanoes,  and  several  flne  lakes 
are  seen  from  its  summit,  the  largest  of  which  is  Odell  Lake,  the  source 
of  the  main  fork  of  the  Des  Chutes.  This  lake  lies  to  the  east  of  the 
peak,  and  is  supplied  by  the  melting  of  the  great  snow  fields  about  the 
eastern  portion  of  the  Diamond  Peak  cluster.  It  is  a  very  wild,  roman- 
tically-beautiful sheet  of  water  about  five  miles  long  and  four  wide. 
There  is  no  grass  on  its  borders,  and  the  fallen  timber,  the  bogs,  and 
the  dense  thicket*  of  brush  and  tamarack  make  it  almost  im]>oasible  for 
I)ea6ts  of  buitlen  to  reach  its  shores. 

The  main  or  west  fork  of  the  Des  Chntes,  issuing  from  Odell  Lake,  ha« 
cut  for  itself  a  deep  and  wide  canon  among  the  erotled  hills  in  which  to 
flow.  Following  down  this  stream  wo  came  to  where  it  opens  out  into 
a  lake,  surrounded  by  tree-covei'ed  clifls,  with  bottom  lauds  and  mead- 


:i' 


if? 


CO.XJMBIA   BIVEB. 


103 


OW8  of  couHiderablo  ext«ut,  aiul  exteusive  nmtl  flatis  neat  thu  lake.  Fol- 
lowing arouua  itH  westerii  Bhoru  wo  found  that  it  Liul  no  viNiblu  ouMvt. 
Thuro  were  watermarks  twenty  feet  above  uh  on  the  lava  blutl't*  of  the 
uortlieru  and  northeastern  shores  of  the  lake,  and  dnring  thu  u'lghi  we 
liuard  rnuiblings  among  the  sharply-cnt  rovk^<  couii>osing  tlio  bitill's. 
We  fonnd  the  next  day  that  these  lava  beils  for  noil  tui  impassable  bar- 
rier, extending  unbroken  for  about  four  miles  to  tl<e  north,  and  at  their 
end  we  found  foaming  out  from  beneath  the  great  an;;ular  l)owldorH  tiie 
clear  cold  water  that  wo  had  soon  lose  itself  in  the  lake  fifteen  miles  or 
more  to  the  south.  < 

The  lava  rock  comt>osing  this  barrier  to  the  waters  is  extremely  hard 
and  close-gniined,  in  fact  almost  obsidian,  and  is  bi-oken  into  irregular 
blocks  with  very  sharj),  clear-cut  edges.  It  seems  to  have  come  from 
some  volcituo  to  the  south,  Iwtweeu  the  east  and  west  forks  of  the  l)es 
Cinites.  Its  recent  origin  is  shown  by  the  fact  of  its  iiaving  dumme<l  up 
the  stream  after  the  latter  htui  cut  for  itself  a  deep  and  wide  canon  IhmI, 
and  also  by  its  having  such  shar]>  edges  aud  unworn,  new  api>earance, 
ami  having  no  iiccumulatiou  of  soil  of  any  kind  on  its  top. 

That  there  wc^re  volcanoes  away  to  the  east  of  the  Cascade  nmge 
there  can  be  no  doubt.  Mr.  Ksirl  observed  wcll-deline*!  cratei-s  and 
local  lava  Hows  iu  the  Pauline  aiiu  Walker  Mountains,  which  are  com- 
posed largely  of  obsidian.  It  is  Jighly  probable,  and  I  believe  that  in 
time  it  will  bo  demonstratjoil,  that  there  were  many  volcano  and  fissure 
eruptions  in  the  desert  country  of  Southern  and  Central  Oregon,  and 
also  within  the  limits  of  the  Great  IMain  of  the  Columbia. 

The  Three  Sisters  are  the  next  marked  i>eaks  of  the  range.  There 
are,  in  fact,  five  well-deflneil  peaks,  and  it  seems  highly  pi-obable  that 
they  ure  all  portions  of  a  grand  old  crator-rim,  twelve  miles  in  diameter, 
now  bit)ken  and  woru  away.  Further  examinations  wil!  Ije  retpiired  to 
deinonstnite  whether  this  is  so  or  not.  Various  small  volcanic  cones 
are  iu  their  vicinity  and  lying  between  them  and  Mount  Jeilerson. 

Mou  it  Jetl'ersou  follows  next  aud  then  Mouut  Hood,  both  being  true 
volcanic  cones. 

Pei-s(<ns  who  have  visited  Mount  Homl  say  that  near  its  summit  there 
ar<;  places  where  hot  sulidiurous  gases  still  escape,  and  there  i»e  very 
many  '>a  ho  cfaim  to  have  seen  smoke  in  large  quantities  issuing  trom  this 
mountHiin.  To  the  north  of  Mount  ilooil  the  Columbia  Kiver  has  dug  it« 
way  through  the  Casctides,  Ibrming  for  its  use  one  of  the  moijt  magniti- 
ce'it  mountain  canons  in  the  world,  cutting  through  the  entire  thickness 
o!  4,000  feet  of  the  overlying  lava  aud  far  into  the  previously  formed 
conglomerate  upou  which  it  rests. 

To  the  north  of  the  Columbia  the  range  widens  out  considerably  into 
a  region  of  high,  grassy  mountain  plateaus,  of  deep  cii.nons,  lieavily 
timliered  sIoimjs,  and  volcanic  peaks.  Among  the  latt<;r,  now  do;i«l  and 
shrouded  iu  suow,  but  once  alive  with  the  terrible  foi-ai  of  the  volcano, 
are  the  huge,  stately  masses  of  Adams,  Saint  Uelens,  and  Itanior. 


104 


COLUMBIA  RIVER. 


■I' 


The  poriod  of  volcanic  oruptiouH  is  just  over  iu  these  inouiitainH,  if  it 
can  be  coiiHideitMl  a>;  yet  entirely  over.  Iu  a  journal  of  a  journey  across 
the  continent  to  Oregon  in  1843,  the  author  states  that  Mount  Haint 
lleleits  burst  into  a  burning  volcano  iu  1843,  and  was  still  burning  on 
the  Kith  of  February,  1844,  when  he  described  it  thus: 

'I'liit  iiioiiiititiii  liiirniHl  iiiont  iiia)r<>i'icv"tly — (lunw)  niaHKUH  of  Hoioko  roHO  up  in  iiii- 
iiiniimicoliiiiiiiH,  mill  wruiUhud  Mm  whole  crest  uftho  peak  in  Boniburiind  iiiiUwivocloiiilH, 
:mi(I  in  the  uvuning  iU  lire  lit  up  the  lluky  mountain  side  with  a  Uood  of  H«ft  yet 
brillia:it  rudiiuioe. 

The  jiccount  is  in  a  '^rintetl  reiwrt  in  the  Portland  Library,  but  the 
uaute  of  the  writer  i    not  given. 

Judge  Thornton,  writing  of  Mouut  Saint  Helen's,  says: 

It  iH  un  itutivc  volcano,  near  4U"  2<J'.  It  iv  D,550  feet  high.  TIiih  mountain  wan  in 
a  HtaUi  of  oru]ition  in  the  year  18:11,  The  fact  is  alHrnietl  by  Dr.  Uawiner,  a  iliHtin- 
guiHliuil  iiaturaliHt  qf  Kngland,  who  was  iu  Oregon  at  the  time,  as  also  by  gentlemen 
coniievteil  witli  the  lIiiilHon  Uay  Compivny.  With  the  exception  of  a  slight  nxl,  lurid 
nppxi.rancu,  the  day  was  dark,  aiul  so  completely  was  the  light  of  the  sun  shut  out  by 
the  Hmoke  and  falling  ashes  that  candles  wore  uecossary.  The  weather  was  pert'ovtiy 
calm  and  without  wind;  and  during  several  days  after  the  eruption  the  tires,  out  of 
dooix,  burned  with  a  bluish  Uame,  as  though  the  atmosphere  was  lille«l  with  snlphur. 

Ored'blu  peinonH  in  Oregon  have  informed  uio  that  they  have  on  several  occasions 
since  s(^  ii  the  lire  and  smoke  of  this  volcano. 

The  Ue ,'.  Josiah  L.  Parish,  who  is  connected  with  the  Metho<list  ^  sicm  in  Orogoii, 
informed  me  that  he  witnot-  mI  on  one  occasion  a  umst  remarkabU  eruption  of  the 
mountain.  I  regret,  however,  that,  not  having  noted  his  relation  in  my  journal,  the 
date  of  the  eruption  and  the  principal  facts  conueote<l  with  it  have  been  obUterat«d 
from  my  memory  by  events  to  which  my  att«ntion  has  since  iMicn  called.  I  only 
remember  that  no  earthquake  was  felt,  no  noise  was  heard,  and  that  he  saw  vast 
colnunis  of  lurid  smoke  and  lire  shoot  up,  which,  after  attaining  to  a  certain  eleva- 
tion, spreitil  out  in  a  line  narallel  to  the  plane  of  the  horizon,  and  presented  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  vast  table,  supported  by  inimenHO  pillars  of  convolving  Uame  ami 
smoke.* 

Tiie  Kev.  Samuel  Parker,  afterdescribing  the  eruption  of  Saiut  Ueleus 
ill  K:3I,  remarks  that — 

The  Indians  say  that  they  have  seen  fires  in  the  chiuims  of  Monut  lloo<l.  Tilki,  the 
lirst  ehiitf  of  the  La  Dalles  Indians,  who  is  a  nuin  of  more  than  ordinary  talents,  said 
he  had  freiiuenlly  seen  tires  in  the  llssures  of  rock  in  the  last-mentioned  mountains. 

It  is  possible,  however,  that  all  this  smoke  and  lurid  glare,  &c.,  might 
have  come  from  great  W(K)d  fires  which  have  f,wopt  over  largo  sections 
of  the  hervil;-  I'imbered  country  about  Snint  Ueleus  and  Mount  llanier. 

This  r.ountain  region  is  very  rough,  being  deeply  cut  up  with  rugged 
and  sleep  canons.  On  the  western  sIoi>eH  it  is  covui-od  with  niagniilcont 
forests,  principally  of  fir,  the  trees  growing  to  an  immense  size.  (Jiio 
tree  lying  on  the  ground  was  measured  by  one  of  Commander  Wilkes's 
parties,  and  found,  at  t«n  feet  from  its  base,  to  bo  thirty-five  feet  in  cir- 
cumcumference  and  tblee  hundred  feet  long.  The  general  elevation  of 
the  plateaus  is  from  3,(KK>  to  5,<K)0  feet  above  the  sea;  they  are  untim- 
beitnl  aud  covered  with  good  grass.  General  MeOlellan  reported  that 
'Oregon  aud  California.    Thornton,  volume  1,  page  250. 


'III!  iniKvmvnflM 


COLUMBIA   KIVEP,. 


105 


upun  theso  niountain  plutoaus  tboru  was  a  great  oxtuut  of  beautiful  and 
rich  pasture  land  a  >.d  a  delightful  climate. 

On  the  oautern  slopes  the  forests  are  more  oitou,  and  consist  of  pine, 
fir,  and  white  cedar. 

The  ^achess  Pass  has  an  elevntion  of  4,900  feet  aoove  the  sea,  and  in 
the  upper  part  of  its  course  the  Nachess  liiver  flows  through  a  very 
narrow  cafion  four  hundred  feet  deep,  the  walls  l>eing  of  solid,  compact 
volcanic  rock. 

There  have  been  several  very  large  local  outflows  of  lava  from  thio 
part  of  the  main  rang«>.  Several  of  these  go  to  make  up  the  eastward 
stretching  ridges  forming  the  Simcoe  Mountains.  Out  of  thestt  lava 
flows  extended  to  the  oiwt  just  south  of  the  forty-seventh  parallel,  crossing 
the  OolumhiaBiver  and  forming  Saddle  Mountain,  which  uxtends  to  the 
eastward  and  is  lost  in  the  general  surface  of  tlie  Oreat  IMain. 

The  base  of  this  Saddle  Mountain  outflow  has  all  been  worn  away  by 
the  Yakima  and  Nachess  systems  of  waters,  and  by  the  ghusiei's  whiuh 
must  have  come  down  scooping  out  the  valleys  of  these  rivers.  Where 
the  Columbia  cuts  through  the  outflow,  just  north  of  Priest  Itapids, 
the  bluff's  are  close  together  and  stand  out  very  prominently,  viewed  both 
from  the  north  and  south.  The  name  of  the  "  Sentinel  lilufl's  "  was  be- 
stowetl  uiwu  them. 

The  Yakima  Pass,  m  about  latitude  47.p,  crosses  the  mountitiiis  in  a 
region  of  deeply-embosomed  beautiful  lakes,  the  high  clitl-like  banks  of 
which  are  crownetl  with  splendid  forests  of  pine,  flr,  and  white  cinlar. 
These  lakes  in  all  probability  owe  their  existence  to  ghiciers  which  in 
former  ages  swept  down  the  valley  of  the  Yakima. 

To  the  north  of  this  puss  very  little  is  known  concerning  tlut  nmin 
chain  of  the  Cascades.  It  is  a  region  of  high  and  rugged  mountains, 
more  Jagged  and  rough  than  the  regions  to  the  south,  heavily  tiinlmred, 
and  with  a  number  of  lakes  and  deei>Iy  cncanoned  streams.  There 
seems  to  have  been  a  volcanic  center  between  the  Yakima  and  the  We- 
natchee  and  lying  aliout  midway  between  the  lakes  of  the  Upi>er  Yakima 
and  the  Columbia,  from  which  outpoured  a  grand  flood  of  lava  to  the 
eivst  and  south,  forming  the  elevated  range  between  the  Wenatchec  and 
the  Yakima,  known  as  the  Wenatcheo  Mountains,  and  crossing  the  pres- 
ent channel  of  the  Columbia  and  forming  Uiulger  Mountain  on  the  east. 

To  the  north  of  the  forty  eightii  parallel,  which  is  about  tlie  line  of 
the  Spokane  and  the  westward  flowing  portion  of  the  Columbia,  the 
country  changes,  bcwmiing  more  independent  in  its  mountain  forma- 
tions, and  joins  on  the  east  with  tie  ea  i  tier  rock  mattn-ials  of  tli*'.  west- 
ern spura  of  t**.:  "ocky  Mountains.  Near  the  mouth  of  the  SiK)kano, 
and  ci'ossing  that  river  in  a  tlirection  northeast  and  southwest,  there  is 
a  great  vein  of  granular  magnosian  limestone.  (iraniUs  is  also  found  in 
this  vicinity  underlying  the  basalt. 

About  the  mouth  of  the  Colville  liiver  the  rocks  are  very  largely 
oomiwsed  of  limestone.    The  Columbia  at  the  Little  Dalles  and  Ket- 
S.  Ex.  18fl U 


106 


COLUMBIA   BIVEU. 


tie  FallH  cuts  throujrh  the  liiuestoiio,  which,  to  the  wcHt,  Heems  to  be 
covered  up  benetith  hillH  of  basaltic  rock.  Thiu  liuiOMtone  in  of  good 
quality  for  building  imr[)OHeH  and  for  lime. 

There  in  a  luagiiiilcent  field  for  the  geologist  iu  the  exploration  of  thiu 
region  lying  along  the  boundary  lino  between  the  Givsciulea  and  the 
Itocky  Mountains. 

The  natural  conBe<]nence  of  the  upbuilding  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 
and  Oasciule  Mountains  was  the  formation  of  a  grand  interior  basin. 
The  waters  of  this  basin  collected  into  secondary  basins,  some  of  very 
large  extent,  and  were  carried  off  by  the  rivers  which  have  cut  a  way 
from  the  interior  to  the  sea.  The  Ooluntbia  and  its  tiibutarios  drained 
the  northern  portion  of  this  great  basin,  and  it  was  at  this  i>eriod, 
doubtless,  that  the  Salt  Lake  of  Utah  assumed  its  old  colossid  propor- 
tions and  found  its  outlet  by  the  Snake  lliver. 

The  commencement  of  the  Tertiary  period  saw  a  great  basin  between 
the  Itocky  Mountains  and  the  up-swollen  primary  range  of  the  (Jascades, 
esiMicially  in  the  i-ugion  south  of  the  Blue  Mountains.  This  reg'tn  was 
covered  with  fivsh- water  lakes  and  marshes,  which  were  af'arward  over- 
tlowu  with  lava.  This  lava  has  since  become  denuded  in  places,  expos- 
ing the  Tertiary  biHls,  and  fumishiug  evidence  of  the  former  condition  of 
the  region  by  the  fossils  found  therein. 

At  the  end  of  the  Miocene  the  Coast  range  was  upheaved,  and  the 
lava  Hows  from  the  Cascade  fissures  commenced,  but  it  wsts  a  long  time 
before  the  lava  Hows  reached  the  entire  extent  of  the  basins  of  Oregon, 
which  continued  to  exist  and  Im)  endowed  with  lite  away  into  the  riiocene 
perioil.  The  ft)Hsil  beds  of  tlie  John  Day  country  and  those  near  Christ- 
mas Lake  in  Southern  Oregon  are  the  principal  ones  that  have  been 
found  in  the  country. 

Tin  TO  is  no  evidence  of  which  I  am  aware  of  any  Tertiary  basin 
north  of  the  Blue  Mountains.  Iu  the  cailon  of  Sniike  liiver,  a  little 
below  Lewiston,  the  basaltic  layers,  aggregating  2,000  feet  thick,  rest 
on  granite.  Above  Lewiston,  on  the  Snake,  1  uund  the  same  thing,  as 
well  as  on  the  Upper  Columbia  near  Lake  Chelan,  and  the  mouth  of 
the  Spokane. 

It  has  been  demonstrated  to  the  satisfaction  of  geologists,  and  well 
stated  by  Professor  Le  Conte,  that  during  the  whole  of  the  Tertiary 
period  there  was  a  gradual  upheaval  of  the  whole  western  half  of  the 
continent  by  which  the  axis,  or  lowest  line  of  the  great  interior  basin, 
was  transferred  more  and  more  eastward  to  its  present  position,  the 
Mississippi  liiver.  Probably,  correlative  with  this  upheaval  of  the 
western  half  of  the  continent,  was  the  down-sinking  of  the  mid-raciflc 
bottom,  mdicated  by  the  coral  reefs  there  existing.  Also,  as  a  conse- 
(lueuce  of  the  same  ui»heaval,  the  erosive  iwwer  of  th^  rivers  was 
greatly  increased,  and  tins  wore  formed  those  deep  canons  iu  which 
they  now  How.  Thus  thi>  uuwn-slukiug  af  th )  mid-Paoiflc  bottom,  the 
upheaval  of  the  racific  side  of  the  contiueut,  and  the  down-catting  of 


fl: 


u. 


COUIMniA    RIVER. 


107 


th«  rivCT  channolH  into  tholr  woiidorfiil  cnfionH  arc  closely  connected 
with  each  other. 

Wo  may  picture  to  ourselves  that,  at  the  on«l  of  the  Tertiar>'  and  the 
cointnenceniont  of  the  Qnat<'niary,  the  hnndreds  of  volcanwm  of  tlMi 
Cascailes  wore  bolchinff  forth  their  fire  and  smoite  and  liquid  ro<ik; 
the  sea  entering  and  occupying  tlio  regions  of  Pnget  Sound,  the  ^^'il- 
lanietto  Valley,  and  all  the  intervening  country;  the  Coast  range,  with 
hero  and  there  a  Center  of  volcanic  activity ;  and  in  the  interior  a  vsvst 
sea  of  cooling,  hardening  lava,  through  which  tho  rivers  ran  in  ex- 
tremely deep  channels,  some  of  them  deeper  far  than  they  are  now. 
Extremely  heavy  rains  pi-evailoil,  wearing  away  the  monntains  and 
washing  tho  debris  down  into  tho  Willamette  Valley  and  all  tho  low 
areas  near  the  coast. 

During  tho  Quaternary  iwriod  tho  high-latitude  earth  oscillations, 
prtHlucing  the  (Glacial,  Ohamplain,  and  Terrmie  op(M!hs,  are  very  well 
illustrated  in  this  northwest«rn  country,  and  especially  in  tho  Upi>er 
Columbia  lliver. 

During  tho  (ilacial  epoch,  when  the  mountains  wore  being  chiseled 
out  by  the  moving  ice,  glaciers,  largo  and  small,  8we]>t  in  dift'eront 
directions  across  tho  great  plain  of  the  Columbia,  grindiUfj  away  at  tho 
solid  rocks,  partially  filling  the  coulees,  and  strewing  the  country  for 
many  miles  with  a  thick  bed  of  bowlders. 

Probably  tho  largest  of  these  glaciers  was  one  which  formed  in  the 
region  of  Pond  d'Oroille  Lake,  swept  to  the  southwest  across  the  Spo- 
kane Plains,  receiving  tho  C(«ur  d'  AlAno  glac''ira,  and  on  across  Hang- 
man's Creek,  the  Four  Lakes  country,  and  still  on  t,o  the  southwest, 
spreading  itself  out  like  a  great  fan,  an<l  grinding  up  the  rocsks  and 
8prea<ling  bowlders  over  the  Spokane  plains,  and  the  area  south  of 
Bmlger  Mountain  and  Crab  Creek,  and  rendering  its  aid  in  forming  llie 
ancient  Columbian  Lake,  t«  l)o  hereafter  noticed. 

The  top  surface  of  these  Spokane  plains  is  composed  of  small  jiebbles 
and  some  loose  soil ;  underneath,  for  a  depth  of  many  feet,  the  material 
is  of  rounded  bowlders  froi>  six  inches  to  one  foot  and  more  in  diame- 
ter, closely  jamined  together  and  tho  interstices  filled  witii  soil. 

During  the  Champlain  epoch  following,  this  Spokane  plain  was  cov 
ered  with  a  great  lake,  leveling  off  the  ui)per  surface  of  this  bowlder 
formation,  filling  up  the  cavities  with  earth,  and  sprea<ling  over  the 
top  the  layers  of  pebbles  and  soil.  To  the  north  of  the  plain  there  are 
several  well-defined  terraces,  indicating  the  dillerent  sizes  of  this  lake, 
from  tho  greatest  tr,  the  final  and  least  size,  afttir  which  it  was  finally 
drained  away  in  the  succeeding  Terra<iO  ejioch  by  the  Spokane  Kiver 
cutting  its  way  through  the  obstructing  rocks,  and  forming  it«  deep 
caflon  below. 

A  study  of  the  Yakima  country  shows  the  existenco  of  a  grand 
glacier  fed  by  numerous  branches  altont  the  heiuls  of  the  Y.ikima  nn«l 
N.ichess,  and  their  tributaries,  and  moving  to  the  south  and  cost. 


108 


COLTTMBIA   RIVER. 


Undonbtcdiy,  thronghont  tho  CoHcacIo  MountAinH,  niul  the  monntahis 
of  tho.  iiortli,  tlicro  wore  many  gliiBifirs  of  great  size.  Lake  Olielan  wan 
Hiirely  rcooimmI  out  by  a  giant  glao.inr.  Tho  Okinakane  Valley  has  ter- 
rai'es,  anrl  gravel  and  bowlder  beds,  Hiinilar  to  those  of  the  Spokane. 
Tlio  lake  enlargementH  of  the  northern  rivers,  tho  Okinakane  and  OSoo- 
yooH  lakes  of  the  Okinakane,  the  Arrow  lakes  of  the  Columbia,  tho 
Kootonay  lakes  of  the  Kootenay,  tho  Kaniksu  Lake  of  the  Vermillion, 
the  Flathead,  Pond  d'Oreille,  and  Ooeur  d'AIAno  lakes,  all  are  probably 
of  gliu!ier  formation. 

In  the  southwestern  portion  of  tho  Great  I'lain,  sonth  of  Badger 
Mountain  and  Crab  Creek,  surrounding  Saddle  Mountain,  and  embrac- 
ing within  it«  limits  tho  lower  portions  of  the  Yakima,  Walla- Walla, 
and  Snako  Rivers,  and  Moses  Lake,  there  is  a  region  lower  than  tho 
surroumling  eountry,  and  which  w.os  undoubtedly  a  lake  during  the 
Champlain  epoch.  It  is  largely  covered  with  rounded  bowlders  of  all 
sizes  eml)eddod  in  a  loose,  light,  powdery  soil,  very  diflicnlt  for  animals 
tn  traverse.  It  is  also  a  region  of  great  sand  hills  and  dunes.  Moses 
Lake  is  fonned  by  the  waters  of  Crab  Creek  being  dammed  up  by  a 
great  sand  drift  which  has  placed  itself  across  tho  old  drainage  channel 
of  the  creek.  In  the  northern  portion  of  this  old  lake  l)od  the  bowlders 
and  loose  soil  rest  upon  the  volcanic  rock,  which,  a  little  further  north, 
is  ex])osod,  and  has  large  areas  without  any  earthy  covering.  Just 
north  of  Saddle  Mountain  the  waters  of  Crab  Creek  have  cut  deep 
cauons  throngh  the  powdery  alkaline  soil.  Tho  walls  of  these  canons 
and  ravines  show  plainly  by  their  stratification  the  swlimentary  methml 
by  which  the  land  was  formed.  I  was  not  able  to  find  fossils  of  any 
kind  in  this  {dace. 

To  the  south  of  Sa^ldle  Mountain  tho  Columbia  has  cat  throngh  this 
lacustrine  sediment,  forming  at  the  White  Bluffs  perpendicular  cliffs 
along  the  left  bank  of  the  river  fifty  to  three  hundred  feet  i:'  height. 

Judging  from  the  character  of  the  soilimentary  deposits,  this  old  lake 
ao«ms  to  have  lieen  the  receptacle  of  all  the  volcanic  ashes  and  cinders 
ficattored  over  the  country,  and  washed  into  it  by  the  rains  and  streams. 

Along  the  right  bank  of  the  river  the  accumulations  have  all  been 
carried  away,  lotiving  a  low  flat  plain.  I  have  endeavored  to  outline 
this  ancient  lake  as  far  as  practicable,  and  propose  for  it  the  name  of 
Lake  Lewis,  aft«r  Capt.  Merriweathoi  Lewis,  the  leader  of  the  explor- 
ing i>arty  which  first  saw  any  of  tho  heatlwaters  of  the  Columbia. 

Th  Champlain  and  Terrace  epochs  have  loft  very  marked  evidences 
of  their  existence  in  tho  canon  of  the  Colunibia,  espncially  in  that  por- 
tion of  it  between  the  Colville  and  Spokane  rivers  and  the  Okinakane 
and  Wonatchee  rivers.  In  both  these  sections  of  tho  river  there  are  ter- 
racesof  all  elevations  from  five  to  five  hundred  feet,  aggregating  aheight 
of  more  than  two  thousand  feet  alwvo  the  present  river.  I  counted 
twenty-two  of  these  terraces  at  one  iwint  in  descending  from  tho  Great 


COLUMniA   RIVER. 


109 


riain  to  tho  rivor  opitonito  Lnko  Cliolnii.  Tlio  rivor  lioixi  flows  nt  a 
dnpth  of  2,500  foot  bolow  tlie  lovol  of  tho  Great  I'laiii. 

Alwut  Lake  Oliolaii  and  in  tho  Korgett  and  aniphitlicatroUko  vatUwH 
of  tho  niountaiiis  forming  the  right  bank  of  tho  rivor  thcHo  toiTaco 
plateaus  are  seen.  About  the  mouth  of  tho  Spokane  th(^  tcrraoos  aro 
extroinoly  distinct  and  marked;  Camp  Spokane  is  situated  on  one  ol 
them  400  feet  al)cve  tho  liver.  Along  by  Lake  Chelan,  and  in  many 
otlier  ])laces,  the  bed  of  the  present  rivor  is  compownl  of  l)o\vhlers  ex- 
tending down  to  an  unknown  depth.  All  those  facts  go  to  show  tliat 
previous  to  the  Champlaln  epoch  the  cafion  of  the  Columbia  was  outt« 
its  pntsent  depth,  and  in  some  places  far  below  it;  that  duHng  the 
downwuril  oscillation  of  the  Champlain  eiwch  this  caiion  was  filled  up 
by  debris,  bowhlers,  &c.,  to  a  height  of  2,000  feet  above  the  i)resent 
river  surface;  and  that  at  this  time  there  was  a  great  lake  in  tho  south- 
western part  of  the  Great  Plain  of  tho  Columbia.  During  this  ejKMili 
also  the  Grand  Coulee  was  occupio«l  as  a  se<;ondary  channel  by  the 
Columbia,  and  the  deeply  cut  cuiions  of  Moses  Couldo,  Wilson  Creek, 
Kenewaw  Itun,  Marlin  Hollow,  Lake  Creek,  Crab  Creek,  &c.,  wire  oc- 
cupiitd  by  large  streams  pouring  their  waters  into  the  great  Columbian 
Lake. 

When  the  downward  movement  of  tho  Champlain  opwsh  came  to  a 
close,  and  tho  upward  movement  of  the  Temvco  eijoch  commenced,  then 
tho  Columbia  Itegan  to  cut  its  way  down  through  its  old  elevated  be«l 
of  bowlders  and  drift  with  which  its  previously-formed  canon  was  fllled, 
and  the  waters  began  to  draiu  away  from  tho  Columbian  Lake.  The 
Columbia  Canon  being  very  narrow,  tho  terraces  only  remained  where 
they  were  protected  from  erosion  by  tho  jutting  clitt's  of  rocks  forming 
recesses.    This  must  account  for  their  lack  of  continuity. 

To  the  west  of  tho  Cascmle  Mountains,  in  Washington  Territory,  there 
aro  beautiful  illustrations  of  these  post-tertiary  higli-latitu<lo  oscilla- 
tions in  the  numerous  inlets,  passages,  canals,  and  straits  making  n)> 
Pngot  Sound.  These  complicated  channels  are  without  doubt  the  work 
of  glacial  erosion  at  a  period  of  greater  elevation  than  the  present. 
Subsidence  fdled  them  with  water  from  tho  sea,  which  also  spread  over 
the  land  far  to  the  south.  Numerous  gi-avelly  prairies  between  the 
Columbia  and  Puget  Sound,  and  tho  Suoqualmic,  Steilaguamish,  and 
other  flats,  attest  tho  presence  of  a  much  more  extended  sound  than 
now  exists.  A  partial  re-elevation  has  brought  tho  soun<l  to  its  present 
beautiful  and  interesting  pro|)ortions. 

Looking  at  the  map  of  the  Columbian  Basin,  and  having  a  personal 
knowledge  of  tho  country,  tho  question  naturally  arises,  why  did  tho 
waters  choose  their  present  courses,  and  liow  were  the  tremendous 
canons  through  which  they  flow  formed  t  llio  basaltic  rock  comi)osing 
these  canons  is  extremely  hard  in  some  places;  notiibly  in  the  canons  of 
Snake  Iliver  near  the  Salmon  liiver  it  is  alnu)8t  a^^  hanl  and  compact  as 
solid  flint  or  obsidian.    Tho  rocks  lietween  high  and  low  wat«r  have  a 


110 


COLtTMBIA    RlVEn. 


]»o1iNli(>(1  vitridtMl  appcamix^o,  ami  it  sooins  to  mo  that  for  wator  to  wear 
tliroiii^li  tItiR  Hnnko  llivor  Cafioii  of  iiioro  than  3,000  fiiot  of  oxtn'inoly 
hanl  ro<!k  for  200  miles  in  length  woiihl  take  an  inoonccivablo  lnn(!;t,)i  of 
time.  Tiio  same  may  be  said  of  the  cafion  of  the  Upper  Golumbisi,  the 
cafioii  of  tlio  Des  Oiiutes,  of  the  Salmon,  and  the  tremeiuloim  gorge 
wliere  the  (Jolumbia  cuts  tliroiigli  the  Cascades. 

It  wouhl  seem  that  these  canons  were  not  commenced  nntil  aft«r  the 
last  of  tlio  lava  flows  making  np  the  aggregate  thickness  of  the  lava 
over  the  country,  for  those  lava  Hows  show  continuity  and  horizontality 
from  one  side  of  the  ca'ions  to  the  other.  Of  O/onrse,  if  a  clninnel  was 
once  formed,  any  subsequent  flow  would  fill  it  up  with  lava  and  fon;e 
the  water  to  c»minienco  its  work  all  over  again. 

(;(«rtain  ap])oarancos  an<l  studies  of  the  Coul6es  of  the  Groat  Plain  . 
wouhl  indicate  that  they  are  of  fissure  formation.    Moses  Conine,  with 
walls  from  two  hundred  to  four  hundred  feet  high,  heads  abni]»tly  in 
the  (Ireat  Plain,  forming  a  complete  and  perfect  cul-de-sac.    This  seems 
iiicom])atible  with  its  being  entirely  a  chaviuol  of  erosion. 

In  the  Grand  Goult^c,  the  Steamboat  Itock,  and  the  formations  almiit 
the  middle  pass  of  the  Oouhse,  are  indicative  to  mo  of  its  Iteing  a  grosit 
fissure.  And  so  of  the  other  coulees  and  cafions,  now  either  dry  or  ox)n- 
taining  small  streams,  which  do  not  seem  to  have  ever  been  of  suffici- 
ent size  to  cut  tlio  canons  inclosing  them. 

I  must  subscribe  myself  to  the  belief  that  the  courses  of  many  of  the 
most  d«}ci)ly  encauoned  rivers  of  this  country  were  det«rmine<l  to  a 
very  gi-eat  exttiut  by  their  waters  finding  and  collecting  in  great  fissures, 
aiul  that  these  fissures  were  formed  during  the  late  Tertiary  or  during 
the  u|)ward  oscillation  of  the  Glacial  eiK)ch. 


CHAPTER    X. 

THE  aiiF,AT  PLAIN  OF  TITE  COLUMBIA. 


The  northern  portion  of  the  interior  Columbia  liivsin,  known  as  the 
Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia,  may  l)e  described  as  that  area  bounded 
on  the  west  by  the  Ciiscadc  Mountains,  on  the  south  by  the  Blue 
Mountains,  on  the  east  by  the  Bitter  Hoot  and  Coiur  d'AlOne  Monnt- 
ains,  and  on  the  north  by  the  mountains  of  the  Moses  and  Colville  In- 
diiin  reservations,  and  those  in  the  triangular  area  l)etwcen  the  Colum- 
bia and  Clarke's  Fork.  This  area  is  about  145  by  155  miles  in  extent, 
and  contains  approximately  22,000  square  miles,  or  14,080,000  acres,  an 
area  twice  the  size  of  Maryland,  and  as  large  as  Massachusetts,  New 
IIam])shiro,  Connecticut,  and  Rhode  Island  together.  This  section  is 
also  known  in  i»opular  parlance  as  the  "  Bunch-Grass  (Country,"  from 
the  fact  that  nearly  all  the  plains  and  hills  thronghont  its  extent  are 
covered  with  this  most  hardy  and  nutritious  grass. 


i 

1 

;.| 

!*.■- 

,1 

L— 

i,m  \t  i»iiiii'[iinMiiiftBaiiWi 


COLUHUIA   UIVEK. 


Ill 


III  the  spring  un«l  uurly  HUininur  wlioii  it  w  livvmn  ttiuljiiiuy  it  iH  vury 
Hwvot  luitl  imliit4ibl«s  and  ctittlu  eat  it  with  avidity.  During  the  huiii- 
iiiur  it  riimiiH,  and  tiio  hoat  of  tho  niiii  and  duarth  of  luuiHtuit)  diy  il  iiit 
and  VA}loT  it  a  rich  yoUow  browu;  but  iu  thitt  condition  it  iH  own  iKttlur 
for  «t«ck  tliaii  it  was  in  its  early  groen  statu.  1  liavo  been  told  by  au 
old  iiionuer  piuskur,  who  for  many  years  pa^skod  throii^'h  the  country, 
that  his  animals  would  keep  in  better  condition  on  buuch-grasH  alone 
than  they  would  if  fed  on  ortUnary  hay  and  grain.  "Bunch  graj^s"  has 
become  the  synonym  for  things  gooil,  strong,  rich,  and  great:  the 
bunch-grass  country  is  the  best  and  linest  country  on  earth ;  bunch- 
grass  cattle  and  horses  are  the  sweotest,  fleetest,  and  strongest  in  the 
world ;  and  a  biuich-gniss  man  is  the  most  suiterb  being  in  the  universe. 

Over  nearly  the  whole  of  this  Great  I'lain  of  the  Columbia  theii;  is 
now  sitreiul  a  rich  and  fertile  soil,  varying  in  depth  from  a  few  inches  tu 
hundreds  of  feet  This  soil  has  been  jtroiluced  by  the  grinding  action 
of  the  ice  and  drift  of  tho  Glacial  cikmsIi,  by  the  water-wearing  of  the 
Ohamplaiu  epoch,  an*l  from  the  disintegration  of  the  rocks  during  the 
liwtand  present  existing  Terrace  ei>och ;  by  thoiiction  of  summer's  rain 
and  heat,  winter's  fntst  and  cold,  and  the  chemical  decomi>ositiou  arising 
from  exposure  to  tho  atmosphere. 

Tho  eastern  portion  of  this  plain  has  a  much  groiter  thickness  of  soil 
than  the  western,  and  this  is  owing  undoubtedly  to  the  gn^ater  amount 
of  umisture  in  the  atmosphere,  and  to  the  soil  brought  down  by  its 
streams  from  the  mountains  on  the  east  and  south.  Soil  arising  fmm 
the  disintegration  of  volcanic  rocks  is  known  to  possess  in  a  high  de 
groe  the  qualities  and  mineral  constituents  iiotMlod  by  plants.  The 
most  fertile  soils  of  France,  Italy,  tho  Sandwich  Islands,  and  California 
are  of  this  nature,  and  tho  wondrous  harvests  in  some  localities  in  the 
biinchgrasH  country  show  that, its  soil  has  no  superior  anywhere. 

Early  travelers  over  these  sections  formed  aiul  recorde<l  various  opin 
ions  concerning  the  quality  of  the  lands.    They  wero  influenced  in  their 
views  by  the  season  of  the  year  in  which  they  traveled. 

To  one  now  who  travels  over  an  uucultivatetl  jwrtion  of  the  counti-y 
in  tho  spring  and  early  summer  nothing  can  be  more  promising  than 
its  appearance  around  him  on  every  side.  Tho  valleys  and  rolling  hillK 
stretch  away  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  green  and  tender  grass, 
and  the  varied  hues  of  the  multitudinous  flowers  add  color  and  great 
beauty  to  the  scene.  The  soil  is  moist,  showera  of  rain  fall  frequently, 
and  little  streams  and  trickling  springs  are  seen  in  all  directions.  After 
awhile  comes  a  change;  tho  showers  cosise,  the  clouds  disajqwar,  arnl 
nothing  iuterirosos  between  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun  and  the  parch- 
ing earth.  Tho  grsiss  loses  its  cool,  green  hue,  the  flowering  plants  be- 
come shrunken  and  withered,  tho  springs  and  rivulets  become  small  or 
extinct,  and  the  soil  dry  and  «lusty.  During  this  latter  period  of  the 
summer  and  fall  the  traveler  wouhl  form  a  very  pcwr  opinion  of  the  land, 
and  declare  that  it  was  not  capable  of  raising  tho  crops  required  by 


112 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


iiiiui.  IIo  would  givti  it  credit  fur  being  a  good  grnziiig  country  when 
wiitvr  could  be  prociirtxl,  but  that  m  iw  fur  lut  his  rocftinniendiitioii  would 
go.  ThJH  JH  procJHoiy  the  ruputution  that  thia  country  IiaH  hml  for  many 
yuara.  Within  a  Hhort  time,  however,  fanners  have  «loinon8tnite«l  that 
the  high  and  «lry  liill  land  is  better  for  crop  raising  than  the  colder  and 
more  organic  soil  of  the  valleys,  and  exi)criment  and  demonstra'.ion 
have  marched  along  togotlutr  until  it  is  proven  that  over  noitrly  the 
whole  of  this  (Ireut  I'lain  of  the  Columbia  the  cereals — wlieat,  barley, 
oats,  ilax,  i%c. — grow  and  return  abundant  harvests. 

An  increase  of  moisture  seems  to  come  with  an  increase  of  cultiva- 
tion, and  every  licre  that  is  |)lanted,  tended,  and  harvested,  lulds  to  the 
total  agricultural  acreage  of  the  country  and  its  capability  of  grain- 
prmlucing.  This  has  iMicn  abundantly  proven  in  Nebraska  and  other 
sections  east  of  the  Itocky  Mounttiins.  After  Fort  Kearney  was  estab- 
lished in  1848,  the  government,  emphtyed  a  skilled  fanner  for  years  to 
live  there  and  try  to  raise  vegetables  for  the  troops  and  grain  for  the 
public  animals,  lint  agriculture  was  a  coni|*leto  failure  owing  to  lack 
of  rain.  Now  all  about  the  old  fort  are  thousands  of  farms  on  all  of 
which  abundant  crops  are  raised.  This  change  has  Iweu  pro<luced  by 
the  westward  progress  of  settlements,  carrying  along  an  increased  raiu- 
tUll. 

In  s(mie  localities  on  the  Great  Plain  it  is  still  a  question  whethui  the 
land  will  produce  or  not,  ivs  no  exiwriments  have  been  made.  It  is  a 
fact  that  it  takes  about  three  years  to  test  the  soil  thoroughly  in  any 
portion  of  this  country.  The  tirst  year  the  crops  of  grain  aro  light,  sw 
the  bunch  grass  is  not  rotted,  and  tends  to  choke  out  its  civilized  rival. 
The  second  year  the  same  thing  takes  place,  but  to  a  less  extent  The 
third  year,  however,  the  grass  has  been  pretty  well  killed  and  the  sod 
rotted,  and  the  soil  proi»erly  comminuted  and  prepared  for  its  work, 
and  this  yosir's  yield  will  generally  tell  its  value. 

It  woidd  be  iralicy  for  the  great  railroa<l  companies,  owning  immense 
boilies  of  land  in  the  country,  to  make  these  tests  in  difiierent  localities, 
and  by  this  means  prove  to  the  inquiring  settler  what  quality  of  Ian«l 
it  is  which  is  ott'erc«l  to  him.  In  a  great  many  cases,  undoubtedly,  in- 
tending settlers  are  forced  away  by  the  uncertainty  as  to  the  produc- 
ing power  of  the  soil  and  the  lack  of  time  and  means  to  test  it. 

The  two  great  drawbacks  to  the  rapid  settlement  nd  growtli  of  the 
country  are  the  lack  of  an  abundant  supply  of  watci  and  lack  of  wood 
for  fuel  and  lumber.  In  regard  to  it  as  a  grazing  country,  it  may  be 
said  that  there  is  gniss  in  the  greatest  abundance  for  thousands 
and  tons  of  thousands  of  cattle  and  horses,  which  cannot  be  ettten  oil' 
owing  t«>  the  lack  of  water.  But  in  this  same  country  in  all  probability 
a  sutticicncy  of  water  can  be  hatl,  either  from  natural  sources  or  by 
diggin,;;,  to  sui>ply  the  needs  of  the  people  and  animals  engaged  in  culti- 
vating the  soil. 

The  volcanic  rock  underlying  the  country  is,  I  believe,  well  adapted 


It  ■' 


COLIIMHIA    UIVKR. 


113 


to  tlio  HtorftKti  of  wiitor  falliiif;  uim>ii  it  und  purcolatiuf;  tlin)U){li  Hh  hiiiiUI 
tiHNuruH  iiiiil  iiitvrHtiCUH  to  tlio  i^roittur  (iHHiinw  iind  onuskH  Ik)Iow.  In 
iMuirly  uvery  plucc  whura  it  liiis  hovii  tried,  water  hoM  beou  x>rouurud  by 
digging. 

SAOE-OBUSn  LANDS. 


S»Kfl-l>ru8h  bas  bncoiiio  alinoHt  a  Rynonyiii  for  worthlcHHrutHH,  iiiid  to 
H»y  that  a  ]»iecu  of  land  iH  Ha|i;e-briiNli  Iiind  uondeiiiiiH  it  at  «iiu;h  in  llio 
iniiidH  of  many  iHM>pl».  Rut  ttiiH  iH  not  riKlit;  for  wliile  a  ^roat  deal, 
]>rolml)ly  the  greater  portion,  of  the  Hagu-hruHh  land  of  tlio  country  ih 
poor  and  comi)aratively  worthleHs,  tliero  are  large  troetn  e^von-d  with 
HagobruHh  which  are  of  the  flneat  quality.  The  little,  Hliort,  Htuut^Ml 
sagebruHh,  hucIi  an  growH  about  the  inoutli  of  Snake  Kiver  and  the 
Central  Oregon  doHerts,  in  irulicative  of  very  poor,  unpnxiuctive  soil, 
lint  far  ditteront  is  the  case  when  the  Hage-bniHh  is  thick  and  Htrong, 
tttanding  from  four  to  twelve  feet  high,  a»  it  does  in  the  vicinity  of  Honey 
Ijake,  SurpriHe  Valby,  and  many  other  placcH  in  California  and  Neva<Ia, 
and  in  jmrtionK  of  the  Grand  Conl()e  and  Biulgor  Mountain  country. 
This  kind  of  aage-bruHli  has  l)oeii  found  by  exi>erienoe  to  grow  only  in 
the  richest  soil,  which,  when  brought  under  cultivation,  ])roduc(SH  tlie 
greatest  harveata.  When  I  visited  Honey  Lake  Valley,  a  few  years 
ago,  the  people  had  already  adopted  the  expression  ^,hat  the  bigger  the 
sago  brash  the  bettor  the  land. 

Sage-brush  is  very  hanl  to  ertulicate,  th)m  the  fact  that  no  matter 
how  thick  it  stands  tire  will  not  run  in  it.  Its  moat  fatal  enemy,  strange 
to  say,  is  graas.  I  have  been  inforniod  by  old  settlers  about  The  Dalles 
and  otiier  places  that  largo  areas  which  aro  now  covered  with  bunch- 
grass  were,  when  they  flrst  came  into  the  country,  covered  with  sage- 
brush. They  describcfl  the  metho<l  by  which  the  bunch-grass  over- 
comes and  replaces  the  sage-brush,  and  which  subsequent  observation 
of  my  own  induces  me  to  believe.  This  is  as  follows :  If  wo  have  two 
contiguous  areas  covered,  one  with  bnnch-grass  and  the  other  with  sago- 
brush,  the  grass  grows  in  among  the-brush  for  considerable  distances, 
enveloping  the  roots  and  lower  portions  of  the  brush.  At  some  time  lire 
comes  and  sweeps  over  the  f  rass,  burning  it  to  the  ground.  This  tire 
does  not  injure  the  grassroots,  which  spring  up  again  as  green  and 
hardy  as  before.  Not  so  the  sage-brush ;  the  fire  has  killed  it,  and  in 
a  short  time  the  old  stalks  and  roots  rot  away  and  the  bunch-grass  com- 
pletely usurps  its  place;  and  so  the  struggle  goes  on  until  the  whole 
area  is  coveretl  with  grass. 

In  ortler  to  show  the  cxtraortlinary  fertility  of  this  region  of  the 
Columbia  River  I  give  below  the  statistics  troxa  *he  United  States  Cen- 
sus office  of  the  average  yield,  per  acre,  of  the  cereals  grown  in  1«7!>  in 
the  State  of  Oregon  and  Territories  of  Washington,  Idaho,  and  Mon- 
tana, comprising  those  regions  drainetl  largely  by  the  Columbia  Biver 
and  its  tributaries.  Montana  is  included  in  this  region  for  the  reason 
8.  Ex.  186 15 


a 


114 


COLUMHIA   KIVRR. 


that,  whilu  nioHt  of  the  Territory  Ih  tlruiiuMl  by  the  MiHHoiiri,  ii  large 
proportion  of  the  (;iiltivate<l  land  is  ou  the  heailwater  Htreunm  of  the 
(Joliiinbiu,  in  the  MiHMoula  KitHin. 

Cermli  vf  tka  United  SUtlen ;  aiwrftye  field  per  erop  of  lilt\). 


OmKnn  

Wmhlngtim 

IiUlm 

Montana 

A  viiraKK  fnr  whiiln  r«Klnn  {  mnan  for  abitvii 
ATiir»K«  wliol*  UulUdBtatea 


Barlny. 

ai 

8S 
83 
30 
33 
3SI 


Biiok- 

whiMit. 


Indbu 

r4>ni. 


OnU.   I    Rjro. 


Whrat. 

17 
M 
M 
27 
83 
13 


Kroin  thiH  it  Ih  soon  that  the  av«ir!ig(i  yiehl  of  barley  per  atire  in  this 
('ohnnbia  conntry  is  50  jior  cent,  greater  than  the  average  yield  in  the 
whole  United  BtatoH,  inclnding  thin  region  ;  the  average  yield  of  bnck- 
wheat  in  liO  {wr  cent,  greater;  the  average  yield  of  Indian  corn  in  11  \wir 
cent.  U'hb;  the  avenige  yield  of  oat«  in  40  per  cent,  greater;  of  rye,  is  04 
per  cent,  greater,  and  the  avenige  yield  of  the  most  inijwrtwnt  cereal  of 
all,  wheat,  is  77  ywr  cent,  greater  than  the  average  of  the  i  iiit«d  StatcH. 

I  give  Inflow  the  average  yield  of  the  cereals  i»er  ivcre  of  the  cereal 
cropn  of  1870  for  the  principal  agricnltural  States  of  the  Union,  and 
th(«e  whose  averages  are  the  largest. 


Ml 


Arkaiiaaa 

Caliriirnla 

IHknta 

Illinuia 

Indiana 

Iowa 

KanaaH 

Kentucky 

MiMitaclniat^tUi.. 

Miohlj^n 

MliinoHota 

Minminri 

Kebraaka 

Now  York 

North  Carolina . 

Ohio 

rennsylvauia... 

Toxaa 

Virginia 

Wiaconain 


Barley. 


Bunk- 
wlieat. 


13 

21 

17 
22  , 
•i'i  i 

a>  I 

"! 

2S 
23 
26 
10 
IS 
22 
U 
80 
IB 
13 
17 


Indian 
com. 


Data. 


Ky«. 


Wheat. 


t 

to 

11 
IS 

18 
10 

9 
10 
16 
19 
11 
12 

0 
16 

5 
18 
13 

g 

13 


jirfBU 


COLITMIilA    KIVKK. 


116 


The  Btatistius  ivKAnling  tliti  pro4liivtioti  of  IriHli  potattHw  in  tlin  St»U«H 
aiul  TurriUirivM  whore  they  ure  prinoi;<(Uly  riiiseil  Ih  k^voii  in  tht«  rolluw> 
iog  table 


WMlliB«««l. 


C'aUfcnbi. 


nibwU 


In 


llMMckaartU  ... 

r-  ..iKHi 

MfaUMMte 

NaWMka 

New  HaapaUn. 

Maw  Jmajr 

KavYaft 

OU* 

PpBnajrlTaaia  ..., 
Kkodeldaad... 

Vrnooat 

Wb 


AOM. 


«,IKIII 
II,  IM 
U,4TI 
113,176 
151,  IM 

ni.iws 

l3t,3M 
71,4Ifl 
S3,aM 

(1,41« 
?H,M7 

w,aw 

41,683 

UO,0(KI 

lAMl 

1«S,43» 

6,a8« 

S8,8I» 

IW,2«a 

•.IMO 


Bwhala. 

1,«M,  177 
l.SM.BSn 
4,5M,MS 
■i,  IW4,  IMI 

ia,a«i,7a7 

«,  232,24(1 
g,  063,  6117 
7,MW,62S 

a,  070, 3»» 

10,  »33,  060 
^  IM,  676 

2,  ISO,  ma 

3, 868,  t.m 

a,  66S,  7«3 

33,612,918 

12,710,216 

16,284,810 

606,700 

4  438, 172 

8,600,161 

664,086 


Ylolil  p«r 


163 

123 
83 
NO 
60 
08 
83 

113 
IH 
81 

101 
76 

113 
HS 
«6 
78 
88 

101 

114 
86 
U 


Theae  statistics  are  only  given  to  show  the  great  fertility  of  the  soil 
in  this  country  drained  by  the  Coliiiiibia,  its  mhiptability  to  support  a 
large  population  engaged  in  agri«;ultural  pursuits,  and  the  enoriiioiii> 
cro|>H  which  its  immense  Heritage  must  yield  as  soon  an  a  i>opiiIati(iii 
siUlicieut  for  their  cultivatiou  is  attained  and  nieaus  of  traim|)ortatioii 
provided.  Tliis  country  is  far  away  from  the  seat  of  government  and  is 
very  little  known,  but  it  is  bound  8o<m  to  force  itself  on  the  attention  of 
tlie  txMiutr)-  as  one  of  the  graiidtwt  portions  of  our  domain,  unexcelled 
by  any  in  the  productions  of  the  earth,  in  the  lieauty,  extent,  and  yield 
of  its  waters,  in  its  iiiountuins  clothed  with  splendid  foi-ests  and  enfold- 
ing mines  of  the  useful  and  prt>ciou8  inutiils,  anil  in  its  climate. 

Id  consequence  of  its  great  and  sure  promise  our  legislators  should 
look  upon  it  with  liberal  eyes  and  grant  abundant  aid  to  all  desirable 
works  of  public  improvement  which  may  be  undertaken  to  facilitate 
trausiwrtation,  sure  of  a  prompt  and  rich  return  in  the  increiuuMl  ]iros- 
l>erity  and  loyalty  of  the  i)eo])le. 

From  the  interior  water-ways,  the  Columbia  and  Snake  Rivers,  should 
be  reinovetl,  as  far  as  prncticuible,  all  the  rocky  fetters  which  prevent 
and  hinder  full  and  free  navigation.  Commerce  will  require  it,  the 
l>6ople  will  demand  it,  and  it  must  bo  done  sooner  or  later. 

In  order  to  partitularixe  a  little  in  regard  to  this  gi-eat  jilain  of  the 
Colombia,  let  us  sujiiMise  that  {Mirtion  north  of  the  Buuke  and  Clearwater 
to  be  tlivided  into  four  nearly  equal  parts  by  a  line  drawn  due  south  fh)in 
the  Big  Beml  of  the  Columbia,  near  Camp  Spokane,  to  Snake  Kiver,  and 


116 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


I<    A> 


a  due  ea^it  and  west  line  tbrougli  the  soutborn  end  of  Big  or  Colville 
Lake. 

The  northeaHtcrn  portion  may  be  designated  as  the  Spolcane  section ; 
tlie  southeastern  as  the  Palovse  seetion;  tho  nortliwostorn  as  the  Grab 
Creek  and  Grand  VoulSe  section,  and  tho  southwestern  ai  the  Mows 
Lake  or  Desert  section.  To  these  must  be  added  the  section  south  and 
west  of  the  Snako  or  the  WaUa  Walla  section;  the  one  south  of  the 
Clearwater  and  oast  of  the  Snake,  or  the  Letciston  and  Mount  Idaho 
section ;  and  tlie  one  to  the  west  of  the  Columbia,  or  tho  Yakima  section. 

THE  PALOUSE  SECTION. 

The  lands  of  this  section  are  nearly  all  of  gooil  quality,  and  are  being 
rapidly  settled.  The  section  is  well  watered,  the  main  streams  being 
the  Palouse,  Cow  Creek,  Kock  Creek,  Pine  Cieek,  Union  Flat  Creek, 
Itebel  Flat  Creek,  Potlatch  Creek,  and  the  head  waters  of  Lahtoo  or 
Hangman's  Creek.  These  streams  all  flow  through  deep  canons  with 
narrow  valleys  or  through  deep  dei>re8sions  bonnded  by  rolling  hills. 
Besides  these  there  are  numberless  smaller  streams. 

('onsiderable  «c«6  land  exists  in  the  western  and  northwestern  jiarts 
of  this  section.  The  land  so  designated  by  the  people  of  the  ccmntry  is 
that  where  the  original  volcanic  rock  is  eximsetl  and  uncovered  by  any 
soil.  Patches  of  this  exposed  rook  exist  scattered  through  the  most 
fertile  regions.  This  is  the  most  fertile,  most  thickly  settled,  and  best 
known  of  the  fou;  sections  north  of  the  Snake.  Several  line  towns  have 
been  start<Hl  in  this  country;  the  princijtal  one,  and  the  one  which  is 
destined  to  be<!ome  quite  a  railroad  and  commercial  center,  is  CoZ/kr,  at 
the  junction  of  the  north  and  south  forks  of  the  Palouse.  Probably  not 
more  than  one-tenth  of  the  land  in  this  section  is  taken  up  and  occupied. 

The  western  jwrtion  is  devoid  of  timlwr,  but  in  the  eastern  portion 
about  the  headwater  streams  of  the  Palouse  and  Ilangumn's  Creek, 
plenty  of  line  timber  exists. 

One  of  the  most  singular  and  prominent  features  of  this  s"^ction  is 
Steptoe  Butte,  a  perfect  cone,  elevated  about  2,()0()  feet  above  the  sur- 
rounding country,  staiuling  quite  alone,  isolated  from  any  neighboring 
Iteak  or  range. 

Another  singular  feature  of  this  section  is  the  fact  that  a  number  of 
the  streams  run  in  a  direction  paniUel  with  the  Snake.  Union  Flat  Creek 
heads  about  six  or  eight  miles  from  tue  Snake  Biver,  t«  the  northeast  of 
Li'wiston,  and  then  takes  a  northwest<'rly  course,  and  for  seventy  miles, 
until  it  Hows  into  the  Palouse,  keeps  at  about  the  same  distance  from 
the  river.  Rebel  Flat  (Jreek,  Wdlow  Creek,  and  the  main  forks  of  the 
Palouse  all  follow  the  same  general  direction,  making  to  a  great  extent 
th«^  same  bends.  It  is  pnibable  that  glaciers  moving  in  this  genei"al 
direction  nnist  bo  assigned  as  the  causes  of  this  i)arallelism. 

The  falls  of  the  I'alouse  form  another  of  the  interesting  objects  of 
this  secition.  In  the  lower  portion  of  its  course  the  Palouse  Hows  through 
a  deep  fissure  in  the  basaltic  rock,  portions  of  which  take  fantswstic  forms, 


m 


COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


117 


as  towering  piiuiaoles,  &c.  At  the  falls  the  river  descends  porpeiulio- 
ulaiiy  for  about  120  feet  ini,!  a  nnTOW  basin,  from  wliicli  it  flows  off 
tlirougli  its  deep  canon  for  about  nine  miles  to  tlie  Hnake  Itiver.  The 
salmon  ascend  only  to  the  falls;  and  the  Pahvse  Indians  have  a  legend 
which  tells  of  the  wickedness  of  the  Indians  higher  up  the  country,  and 
how  the  Great  Spirit  in  his  displeasure  plaiced  the  falls  as  a  barrier  to 
the  further  ascent  of  the  salmon.* 

THE  SPOKANE  SBOTTON. 
This  section  is  more  variod  than  inty  of  the  others.  In  ita  southeastern 
part  is  C(Bur  d'Alfme  Lake  and  the  fine  timber-covered  «'ountry  sur- 
rouiuling  it.  In  it«  northeastt^rn  and  eastern  part  are  the  gra\'elly  Sjui 
kane  Plains  and  the  fertile  prairies  embedded  in  the  nortluuit  wocxls. 
Us  western  portion  comprises  some  of  the  finest  farming  lands  in  the 
Territory,  among  which  are  those  known  as  the  Deep  Creek,  Four  Lakes, 
Upper  Crab  (Jreek,  ITawk  Creek,  and  Cottonwood  Spring  Countios. 
(tordon  Prairie,  &c.  The  c>i<okane  Itiver  runs  through  this  section, 
giviUf;  water  transportivt.on  for  the  timber  from  the  great  forests  about 
its  headwaters,  and  furnishing  one  of  the  flaiost  wat^^r-powers  in  the 
world.  The  main  line  of  the  Norther!i  Pacific  liailroad  runs  diagonally 
through  the  section.  Along  the  Spokane  Kiver,  below  the  falls  and  upon 
its  small  tributaries,  there  is  a  gooil  deal  of  titnber,  wliic^h  wi'il  furnish 
the  inhabitants  and  settlers  with  woo<l  and  lumborforauuinber  of  years, 
until  more  railrotuls  are  built  and  the  commerce  in  gra<ii,fuel,  and  lum- 
ber becomes  established. 

Due  west  from  Spokane  Tails  an«l  extending  in  a  westerly  <lire<'tion 
is  the  divide,  between  the  streams  which  flow  north  into  the  SiMikane 
and  south  into  Cnib  Creek.  This  divide  is  no  higher  in  appearantn^  than 
the  country'  to  the  north  and  south ;  it  abounds  in  sjjrings  and  swales, 
where  the  waters  collect  and  then  flow  away  ivs  rivulets  and  brooks 
through  the  gently-rolling  hills  at  first,  finally  becoming  more  deejtly 
en(^anoned  iis  tlsey  nei>r  their  destination  at  the  great<>r  river  or  <!reek. 
Of  course  thone  flowing  north  into  the  Spokane  cut  more  deeply  thiui 
those  flowing  south.  This  divide  is  of  importance  in  the  economy  of 
the  country,  ns  it  funiishes  an  excellent  route  for  araih'oa<l,  which  will 
pass  through  an  extremely  fertile  and  desirable  country,  ami  be  easily 
a«'.cessibli»  from  both  sides  thro-igbout  its  entire  length.  This  railroad 
is  one  which  in  the  near  future  must  <!ertainly  be  built.  Its  stsirting- 
point  must  be  at  the  falls  of  the  Si)okf>i<e,  from  where  it  will  stretch 
away  westwanl  to  the  Okinakane  and  vicinity  of  the  Wenatiilu'c,  bear- 
ing in  one  dirtiction  its  loads  of  gmin  to  be  ground  into  flour  for  shipment 
to  the  great  world,  and  in  the  other  direction  the  fuel,  himlH>r,  and  mer- 
chandise  required  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  country  through  which  it 
])assos. 

Among  the  singular  features  of  this  country  are  the  Spokane  Plains. 
Lying  along  the  banks  of  the  Upi>er  8iK)kane,  and  extending  «»ft'  towards 

•  St»n!ey. 


:p 


118 


COLUMBIA  RIVER. 


slv 


Pend  (VOroille  Lake,  there  is  a  system  of  nearly  level  plains  'Ising  one 
above  the  other  into  terraces  towards  the  north.  These  plains  are  <)om- 
po3e<l  chiefly  of  gnivel  and  bowldera,  and  the  vegetation  on  them  is 
slight,  and  the  /  j^re  not  well  adapted  to  farming  purposes.  The  higher 
tcr^races  seem  to  Ite  much  better  than  the  lower  ones,  as  there  is  more 
goo<l  rich  soil  intermixed  with  the  gravel  on  them. 

It  would  be  a  mfstakc,  however,  to  supiwBe  that  the  le  plains  are  value- 
less. They  are  well  adapted  to  grazing  purposes,  and  throughout  there 
are  large  ])atches  and  strips  where  the  rich  soil  has  (collected  in  sufli- 
cient  quantity  and  depth  to  give  most  excellent  farming  lands.  Some 
of  the  garden  farms  on  these  fertile  patches  are  already  famous  for  the 
quality  antl  quantity  of  their  products. 

Uiwn  this  gravel  plain,  just  above  where  Hangman's  Greek  joins  the 
Simkano,  is  situated  the  city  of  Spokane  Falls,  and  it  certainly  is  unex 
celled  in  the  whole  world  as  a  town  site.  There  will  never  l)e  anyniud, 
and  pavements  will  never  be  needed  in  this  1>eaatiful  place,  which  is 
already  assuming  the  dignity  and  business  appearance  as  well  as  the 
name  of  a  city.  The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  here  crosses  Hangman's 
Creek,  and  first  reaches  the  Spokane  liiver;  several  other  railroads 
have  been  projected  which,  when  built,  will  make  the  town  an  important 
railroad  center.  Its  situation  and  natural  advantages  must  make  it  a 
place  of  consequence,  and  great  things  are  predicted  of  it. 

The  climatfl  is  truly  delightful  and  of  the  most  undoubted  healthful- 
ncss.  In  the  vicinity  are  all  the  elements  which  go  to  make  up  an 
attractive  place  of  residence;  beautiful  scenery  of  varying  plain  and 
mountain,  prairies,  and  timbered  hills,  lovely  lakes  for  boating,  fishing, 
bathing,  &c.;  a  picturesque  ri\  sr  abounding  in  the  finest  trout;  unex- 
cellcti  rides  and  drives,  and  hunting  of  all  kinds,  from  prairie  shooting 
to  deer,  elk,  and  bear  hunting  among  the  summits  and  gorges  of  the 
mountains. 

(3uMir  d'Alene  Lake  is  an  extremely  beautiful  sheet  of  clear  water,  well 
stocked  with  the  finest  trout  and  surrounde<l  by  beautifully  formed, 
timlH)r-covere<l  mountains.  Its  main  feeders  are  the  Gceur  d'Alene  and 
Saint  Joseph  rivers,  flowing  from  the  Bitter  Root  Mountains.  On  the 
banks  of  these  streams  and  in  their  vicinity  there  are  splendid  bmlies  of 
timber,  which  at  some  time  must  become  very  valuable.  These  rivers 
are  not  ni.w  in  a  good  condition  to  run  logs  on,  being  blocked  up  with 
fallen  timber,  which  will  have  to  be  cleared  out  before  they  cau  be  used. 
Once  cleared  out  during  high  water,  logs  cau  be  take'  down  without 
limit  or  trouble.  The  lake  l<es  at  the  same  general  level  as  the  lower 
Spokane  Plain,  and  is  an  old  eroded  basin  formed  at  a  i)eriod  of  greater 
elevation  than  the  present.  Aliout  eight  miles  down  the  Spokane  River 
ft-om  the  lake  there  is  a  very  great  contraction  of  tlic  river  at  the  Littl'» 
Falls.  This  has  had  the  etfect  of  slowing  up  the  waters  between  it  and 
the  mouth  oi"  the  lake,  and  depositing  a  large  amount  of  gravel,  iK'-bbl"''- 
aud  bowlders,  thus  damming  back  the  waters  into  thii.  eroff/u  '.i;i: 'i 


•M> 


if' 


--m 


COLUMBIA   BIVER. 


119 


I 


and  forming  the  lake.    Litiie  bottom  land  lies  along  the  lake,  and  the 
banks  are  generally  steep  and  high. 

In  the  Four  Lake  country  there  are  three  small  lakes,  whose  waters 
are  strongly  impregnated  with  the  carbonate  of  smla,  and  which  have 
been  dubbed  the  Medical  Lakes.  The  water  has  jv  very  soapy  feol  and 
effect,  ar.d  is  delightful  to  bathe  in.  The  eft'ccts  of  a  strong  and  con- 
tinued wind  storm  on  the  lakes  is  very  curious;  the  water  is  l»sho<l  into 
a  soapy  foan>  very  white  and  light,  which  coUcHsts  on  the  banks  to  a 
deptis,  at  times,  Oi  several  feet. 

THE  OBAB  OBKEK  AND  OBAND  COHL^E  SECTIONS. 

This  is  a  portion  of  the  country  which  is  and  has  been  very  little 
known.  Its  remoteness  has  deterred  settlers  from  going  to  it.  Before 
I  first  went  into  the  section,  in  1870, 1  could  obtain  very  little  infornm 
tion  in  regard  to  it.  Then,  all  the  inhabitants  were  three  or  four  cattle- 
raisers  living  along  Crab  Creek — "  I'ortugce  Joe,"  living  on  Kenewaw 
Run,  and  "  Wild  Goose  Bill,"  on  the  heailwators  of  Wilson  Creek. 

The  establishment  in  1870  and  abandonment  in  1880  of  the  military 
jtost  of  Camp  Chelan,  caused  many  i>ecple,  in  t'  e  capacity  of  tcivmstitrM 
and  other  government  employ<5e,  as  well  as  th.  military,  to  go  ovjr  the 
country,  and  a  knowledge  of  it  has  been  thus  acquired  and  dissemi- 
nated, and  now  there  are  cpiite  a  number  of  settlers  v*  ho  have  Rono  into 
the  country  to  make  themselves  homes.  Of  course  it  cannot  become 
much  of  an  agricultural  country  until  a  market  for  its  products  is 
aff«)rded  by  the  construction  of  a  railroad  into  it.  This  section  has 
n.ever  sei>med  to  enter  into  the  minds  of  people  except  ''«s  a  broken  and 
almost  desort  land,  but  I  oueak  from  a  knowledge  acquireil  by  traveling 
over  nearly  the  whole  of  it,  and  I  shall  not  hesitate  to  characterize  it  as 
a  very  fine  agricultural  and  grazing  section.  The  country  l)etween 
Crab  Croe?r  and  the  Columbia  is  well  watered  by  streams  hea<liiig  along 
the  divide  already  mentioned,  which  lies  quite  near  the  Columbia ;  thc«e 
streams  flow  with  more  or  less  water,  acconling  to  the  season  of  the  year, 
through  valleys  of  ^"^rying  width,  ir  a  southwesterly  direction,  to  Crab 
Creek.  The  land  ab^ut  the  hea'is  of  these  creeks  and  that  lying 
between  the  creeks  along  theii-  hmor  course  is  of  the  ilncst  quality, 
growing  the  most  luxuriauL  b'rrch-grass  and  giving  every  evidence  of 
lieiug  a  magnificent  grain  country. 

In  1880  I  laid  out  a  wagon-road  from  Kitzville,  on  the  Kortlu^rn  Pa- ' 
cific  Railroad  to  Camp  Chelan,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  seven 
miles.  Over  nearly  the  whole  of  this  distance  I  found  the  bunch-grass 
growing  strongly  and  well,  and  the  soil  of  undoubted  fertility.  The 
rolling  hiiis  to  the  south  of  Crab  Creek  for  a  distance  of  from  five  to 
twenty  miles  ai«  of  the  same  exellent  quality  as  those  to  the  north.  Of 
course  there  is  some  poor  laud  in  the  area  east  of  the  Grand  Coulee,  but 
as  a  whole  it  is  scarcely  to  be  suq)assed. 

The  Grand  Coulte  is  the  most  singular,  prominent,  and  noted  feature 


I 

1 

■■;?■; 


120 


COLimBIA   EIVEK. 


of  this  [lortiun  of  the  country.  It  commences  on  the  Ooluiiibia  between 
thenioiithH  of  tlie  Sans  Poil  and  Nespilem  rivers  and  extends  in  a  south- 
westerly dii-eution  for  flfty-flve  miles,  when  it  merges  into  the  bowlder- 
covered,  prehistoric  (Jolumbian  Lake  meistioned  in  the  geological  chap- 
ter of  this  report.  Except  at  one  point  it  is  a  deep  chasm,  with  vertical, 
imptissable  walls,  averaging  about  350  feet  in  height.  About  midway 
between  its  extremities  these  walls  are  broken  down,  entirely  so  on 
the  east,  and  so  m  't  so  on  the  west  that  a  wagon  has  no  difflculty  in 
ascending.    The  ct   .'  »  is  partially  filled  up  by  the  broken-down 

hills.    The  cause  of  li.  .k  seems  to  have  been  a  flood  of  water  or 

icecou)iiig  in  from  the  no  ..east  and  flowing  off  down  through  the  cou- 
lee chasm.  Many  rounded  bowlders  are  here  found  in  the  soil,  and 
great  rocks  of  large  size,  which  could  only  have  been  transported  by  the 
agency  of  ice.  To  the  north  of  tiiis  middle  pass  the  bottom  is  quite 
level ;  it  luis  some  springs  and  small  ponds,  and  can  be  traveled  with- 
out difliculty.  It  is  in  some  places  nearly  four  miles  wide.  The  southern 
portion  is  very  narrow,  and  the  bottom  is  lilled  with  a  succession  of 
lakes,  the  northern  ones  being  of  clear,  white,  sweet  wat«5r  filled  with 
fish;  toward  the  south  the  lakes  become  more  and  more  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  alkali,  until  the  one  at  the  end  of  the  coulee  is  of  the 
most  detestable  tinpalatable  nature.  At  its  junction  with  the  Columbia 
the  coulee  is  ci-ossed  by  a  very  bad  wagon-road,  and  a  trail  crosses  it 
about  seven  miles  from  the  Columbia.  The  only  other  place  whore  it 
can  be  crossed  is  at  the  Middle  Pass  mentioned  above. 

I  first  called  attention  to  this  Middle  Pass  in  1879,  and  located  a 
wagon-roml  iwjross  it  in  1 88«.  It  is  the  only  phtce  where,  by  any  means, 
the  coulee  can  be  crossed  by  a  railroad  trom  the  Columbia  to  its  end 
near  Moses  Lake.  The  southern  portion  of  the  coulee  from  this  point 
cannot  be  crossed  or  traverseil  owing  to  the  lakes  and  steqp  walls. 

To  the  west  of  the  Grand  Coulee  there  is  another  running  nearly  par- 
allel with  it,  known  as  Moses  or  Little  Coul^.  This  has  a  number  <>! 
si>riiigs  and  much  good  hmd  in  it.  Thd  laud  butweeu  the  two  coulees 
is  ii;ostly  rich  and  covered  with  Imneh  grass.  This  Moses  Coulee  comes 
to  an  abrupt  end,  inclosing  a  little  lake. 

Foster  Creek,  with  its  many  branches  and  fertile  soil,  lies  to  the  north. 
Many  sjtrings  and  little  lakes  exist  throughout  this  i)ortiou  of  the  sec- 
tion under  discussion.  There  is  every  inducement  in  the  way  of  natural 
advantages  for  thousands  of  settlers  in  this  portion  o^"  the  country. 

West  of  Moses  Coulee  there  is  a  coudsiderable  area  of  tiudjer  land, 
and  the  vegetation  indicates  a  rich  soil,  but  water  is  not  plentiful.  It 
may  be  obtained  by  digging,  but  this  has  not  been  tried,  and  hence  is 
uncertain. 

In  the  southwestern  portion  of  this  section  lies  Badger  Mountain. 
This  could  only  be  called  a  mountain  in  a  country  as  flat  as  the  Great 
Plain,  and  does  not  deserve  the  name.  It  is  a  loug,  rolling  divide,  whose 
sides  are  cut  by  gullies,  iu  many  of  which  springs  aie  to  be  found.    The 


COLUMUU  UIVEB. 


ISI 


soil  of  this  mouutain  appears  to  be  exceediugly  rich,  aud,  iudoed,  if  I 
was  aslced  to  name  tbu  richest,  most  fertile  area  iu  thiis  whole  Columbia 
Basiu,  I  know  of  none  tliat  I  would  uame  before  Badger  Mouutain. 
The  vegetation  is  indicative  uf  its  fertility,  being,  besides  bunch-grass, 
rose  bushes,  choice-cherry  bushes,  haws,  willows,  &o.,  all  growing  thick 
and  strong.  The  country  is  well  watered,  and  will,  in  time,  have  an  easy 
outlet  by  the  Columbia  Uiver,  and  deserves  the  attention  of  everybody 
having  the  great  transportation  and  ether  interests  of  the  country  iu 
hand. 

Throughout  this  section  the  Groat  Plain  lies  about  2,(H)0  to  2,500  feet 
above  the  river  level,  aud  It  is  extremely  diiUcult  to  get  &oui  one  to  the 
other.  West  of  the  Qiaud  Conl6e,  the  only  practicable  luilroad  route  to 
the  Columbia,  that  I  am  sure  of,  is  by  way  of  Foster  Creek. 

By  this  route  an  excellent  grade  can  be  made  to  the  river.  It  is  iws- 
sible  that  by  the  wa^y  of  Moses  Coulee,  or  the  southern  side  of  Badger 
Mountain,  an  easy  way  to  the  river  may  be  discovered. 

The  commercial  center  of  this  section  will  probably  be  somewhere  iu 
the  vicinity  of  the  Middle  Pass  of  the  Grand  CouliSe.  Another  and 
greater  center  will,  in  the  future,  be  located  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Okiuakane. 


THE  HOSES  LAKE  OB  DESEBT  SBOTION. 

This  last  one  of  the  four  sections  which  I  have  been  considering,  can 
be  dismissed  with  a  few  words,  and  those  almost  entii  ely  of  condemna- 
tion. It  is  a  desert,  pure  and  simple,  an  almost  waterless,  lifeless 
desert.  A  few  cattle  exist  along  the  Columbia,  where  they  can  reach 
"the  river  for  water,  n  id  some  more  along  the  lower  Crab  Ortek  below 
Moses  Lake.  This  section  is  much  lower  than  the  remainder  of  the 
Great  Plain,  and  evidently  was  a  lake  for  hundreds  of  years^  forming 
deiH)sits  several  hundred  feet  in  thickness,  and  which  are  plainly  shown 
at  the  White  Blnflfs  and  Crab  Creek  Coulee. 

A  large  portion  is  covered  with  bowlders  embedded  in  a  loose,  light, 
ashy  soil ;  other  portions  are  covered  with  drifting  sands,  and,  taken 
all  in  all,  it  is  a  desolation  where  even  the  most  hopeful  can  And  nothing 
in  its  future  prospects  to  cheer.  jj. 

Crab  Creek  sinks  soon  after  receiving  the  waters  of  Wilson  Creek,  and 
rises  just  above  Moses  Lake,  of  which  it  is  the  only  feeder.  At  this 
l)oint  the  water  is  passably  good  to  drink.  Moses  Lake  la  stagnant, 
alkaline,  and  unttt  for  any  use.  At  its  lower  end  are  great  saud  dunes 
and  sandy  wastes. 

The  water  seeps  through  this  sand  aud  rises  again  a  few  miles  to  the 
south  and  flow^  southwesterly  to  Saddle  Mouutain,  where  it  is  tumetl 
to  the  west,  siui^ing  and  risiug  several  times.  I  do  not  think  that  it 
now  ever  reachet>  the  Columbia.  Below  Moses  Lake  the  creek  water 
is  alkaline,  filled  with  organic  matter,  and  uni.»alatable. 
S.  Ex.  186 16 


122 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


fi.'): 


\vm, 


The  following  account  of  a  journey  across  the  two  westeni  sections  of 
the  Great  Plain  is  from  my  report  to  the  Chief  of  Engineers  in  1880 : 

In  AngiiBt,  1979,  I  left  Walla  Walla  and  proceeded  to  Wallula,  and  tbencu  np  the 
Columbia  to  the  White  Bloifa.  At  the  head  of  the  long  island,  we  leit  the  river  to 
look  out  for  a  practicable  route  for  a  wogou-road  to  the  military  camp,  tlion  iu  the 
vicinity  of  the  mouth  of  the  Okiiiakane,  on  the  sappositiou  that  it  was  to  bo  perma- 
nently located  there. 

We  reached  the  top  of  the  bluffs,  which  are  hero  about  540  feet  high,  by  going  up 
through  a  long  guloh  greatly  beaten  by  cattle.  The  soil  is  dry  and  is  ground  to 
powder  by  the  feet  of  the  cattle  wherever  they  make  a  path,  and  is  not  well  suited 
for  a  road.  We  however  fouud,  a  short  distance  down  the  river,  a  gulch,  up  which 
the  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  bluffs  is  easy  and  gradual. 

From  the  summit  the  country  spreads  out,  gently  rolling,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
•'each,  to  the  northeast  and  east.  To  the  north  and  northwest  a  small  monntain  chain, 
devoid  of  timber,  stretched  itself  ih>m  east  to  west  across  our  way.  It  is  called  Saddle 
Mountain.  The  country  was  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  bunch-grass,  with 
here  and  there  a  traot  of  sage-brush.  The  soil  is  of  firm  and  excellent  quality.  Quito 
a  large  numbeT  of  cattle  wore  seen,  all  of  which  had  to  descend  to  the  river  for  water. 

Proceeding  somewhat  to  the  northeast,  to  skirt  Saddle  Mountain,  we  soon  found  our- 
selves getting  into  a  country  more  sandy  and  more  rolling,  and  our  mules  and  horses 
had  greater  difflculty  in  getting  along.  In  the  afternoon,  being  on  the  lookout  for 
water,  we  made  for  a  green-looking  spot  off  to  the  east,  hoping  it  was  a  spring.  In 
this  we  wore  disappointed,  and  we  continued  on  our  way  nntil  nine  o'clock  at  night, 
when,  not  finding  any  water,  we  unloaded  and  made  ourselves  as  comfortable  as  pos- 
sible without  it.  The  next  morning  before  dbylight  we  took  up  our  laborsome  march 
through  the  sands  of  the  desert  and  traveled  until  about  two  in  the  af)«moon,  when, 
as  our  animals  were  sufferinfr  intensely  from  thirst,  and  as  we  wore  uncertain  about 
what  lay  before  us  directly  vrurth,  we  concluded  to  strike  to  the  westward,  as  from 
all  the  indications  it  was  more  likely  to  give  us  a  supply  of  water.  About  three  o'clock 
we  came  to  an  old  road,  which  gave  indications  of  having  at  one  time  been  well  trav- 
eled, and  we  turned  and  followed  it  to  the  northward,  trusting  that  it  would  take  ns 
to  water. 

At  five  o'clock  our  animals  seemed  utterly  unable  to  carry  their  packs  any  further, 
and  so  wo  unloaded  them  and  piled  up  our  baggage  and  kept  on  without  it.  About 
nine  o'clock  that  night  we  came  to  a  small  alkali  pond,  which,  vile  os  it  was,  seemed 
like  nectar  to  ns  and  to  our  poor  horses  and  mules. 

The  country  we  had  traveled  was  covered  partly  with  sage-brush,  bunch-grass,  and 
weeds,  and  was  utterly  waterless  and  lifeless.  Not  oven  the  cheerful  coyote  lived 
there,  for  not  one  lulled  us  to  sleep  or  molested  our  abandoned  provisions  and  camp 
equipage.  The  next  day  we  found  the  flno  spring  which  feeds  the  alkali  pond  above 
mentioned.  I  afterwards  learned  that  it  goes  by  the  name  of  Black  Rook  Spring. 
Here  the  face  of  the  country  changes  to  a  certain  extent  and  becomes  more  broken  up. 

Block  Rock  Spring  is  at  the  head  of  a  ooul(te  which  extends  off  to  the  soutliwest,  and 
probably  as  far  as  Moses  Lake.  From  Block  Rock  Spring  we  kept  to  the  north,  and 
in  about  nine  miles  came  to  Crab  Creek,  which  is  here  quite  a  stream,  flowing  through 
a  rich  bottom  half  a  mile  wide.  Up  the  stream  the  bottom  narrows  and  becomes  a 
ohasra,  formed  by  the  perpeniicular  and  overhanging  wails  of  bosoltio  rock.  Lower 
down  the  bottom  became  a  marsh,  entirely  filling  the  space  between  the  basaltic  wails, 
in  which  the  creek  sinks  to  collect  again  further  below.  Where  we  crossed  it  the  bottom 
was  good,  and  the  descent  and  ascent  from  the  great  table  land  wore  comparatively 
easy.  A  goodly  number  of  fine  fat  cattle  inhabited  this  valley  and  the  a4Joining  high 
grounds,  and  no  doubt  fine  gardens  could  be  made  and  nearly  every  garden  vegetable 
raised. 

Leaving  Crab  Creek  we  went  nearly  northward,  taking  as  a  guide  the  Pilot  Rock, 
a  mass  of  rock  about  thirty  ieet  high,  bat  which,  on  account  of  the  general  flatness  of 


COLUMBrA    RIVER. 


196 


the  country,  can  be  noon  for  a  great  diatnnoe  in  every  dirootion.  Stion  wo  oroased 
Konewaw  Sun,  the  dry  be<l  of  a  winter  stream,  now  containing  a  Rcaiity  Hnpply  of 
water  in  liticos  and  HpriugH.  Leaving  tliia  we  oroatiod  shortly  afterwards  Wilson 
Croeli,  a  flne  little  stream  flowing  tliroiigh  a  rich  bottom.  It  and  Konewaw  Rnu  aro 
deeply  imbedded  below  tho  general  surface  of  the  Great  Plaiu  of  the  Columbia,  have 
fine  soil  and  abundant  grazing  in  the  bottom  and  the  a(\jn(:ont  hills  and  npiwr  plains  for 
groat  numbers  of  cattle  or  horsea.  The  scarcity  of  timber  of  any  kind  for  fuel  and 
building  pnriMMes  is,  and  must  always  be,  a  great  drawback  to  the  settlement  of  this 
section.  Kiieping  on  over  the  part  of  tho  Qreat  Plalu  lying  between  WHnou  Creek 
and  the  Qraud  CouMe,  a  rich  rolling  country  oovorod  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
bunuh-grasH,  we  deficonde<l  by  mistake  into  the  Cold  Spring  Couldo,  down  which  runs 
the  great  trail  of  tho  Indians  from  the  Spokane  country  to  tho  Wenat<thee  and  Moses 
Lake  countries.  We  climbed  out  of  this  coultSe,  and,  passing  over  tho  broken  and 
rooky  summit  between  the  two  coulcSes,  we  descended  by  a  long  gradual  slope  of  about 
three  miles  Into  the  Qrond  CoultSe.  The  Pilot  Rock  was  right  above  us,  on  the  west- 
ern bank,  to  the  north.  Here  In  this  vicinity  is  the  host  place  to  cross  the  coal6u  for  a 
roail  going  east  and  west.  The  bottom  of  tho  conldo  Is  uneven  and  more  than  a  thou- 
sand feet  above  tho  present  level  of  the  river.  Tho  sides  show  no  water-marks.  We 
went  north  through  tlie  oonl<^,  Its  porpendlcnlar  walls  Terming  a  vista  like  some 
grand  old  rained,  roofless  hall,  down  which  we  traveled  hoir  after  hour.  The  walls 
are  about  300  to  400  feet  high.  At  about  seven  miles  trom  th<  river  a  trail  crosses  the 
coiil^,  and  we  turned  here  and  wont  to  the  west  until  we  sttuck  Foster  Creek,  down 
whicli  we  kept,  following  the  wagon-road  made  by  the  trtiiiis  which  preceded  us, 
to  tho  winter  camp,  and  which  ci-'^iies  the  collide  at  its  Junctkn  with  the  Columbia 
River. 

Some  good  ranching  land  lies  along  Foster  Creek,  and  all  over  the  northern  portion 
of  the  Qreat  Plaiu  kunch-grass  grows  in  the  greatest  luxnrianoo.  There  are  nunier> 
ous  little  ponds,  which,  fed  by  springs,  keep  a  supply  of  water  all  the  year,  and  also 
nnnierous  springs  of  excellent  water. 

Pursuant  to  Instractlons  trom  General  Howard,  Lieutenant-Colonel  Herrlam  and  I 
began  a  search  for  the  most  suitable  location  for  the  new  post.  We  examined  both 
sides  of  the  river  £it>m  the  month  of  the  Okinakane  to  Lake  Chelan,  and  decided  that 
the  most  adrantagoous  sight,  taking  everything  into  oonsldoratlon,  was  at  the  outlet 
of  Lake  Chelan,  the  plateau  on  the  north  side  of  the  lake  and  river.  An  unlimited 
supply  of  timber  and  pure  water  is  at  hand  and  available  for  every  i<'<rpooe.  Lake 
Cholau  is  a  wonderfully  beautlf^il  sheet  of  water,  about  sixty  miles  long,  acconling  to 
the  Indians,  and  from  one  to  five  miles  wide.  It  seems  to  be,  and  is  In  fact,  a  dammed- 
up  mountain  cation  of  the  most  rugged  and  pronounced  description.  The  water  Is  of 
diamond-like  clearness,  and  yet  in  places  no  sight  can  penetrate  to  the  bottom  of  its 
liquid  depths.  It  is  supplied  from  mountain  springs  and  {h>m  tho  melting  snows  of 
the  91088  of  snow-capped  mountains  lying  about  it. 

In  a  dug-ont  canoe  paddled  by  old  In-no-ma-aotch-a,  thochiof  of  the  Cholans,  and  his 
two  sons.  Colonel  Merriam  and  I  went  up  the  lake  about  twenty-fonr  miles,  and  found 
it  to  Increase  in  nigged  grandeur  and  beauty  at  every  paildle-stroke.  Walls  of  granite 
rose  in  places  almost  vertically  for  a  thoiisaud  foot  above  the  waters  and  down  below 
them  farther  than  the  eye  could  reach.  Elsewhere  tlie  steep  mountain  walls  were 
covered  with  fine  plno  and  fir  and  dense  undergrowth.  Game  was  abundant,  ita  evi- 
denced by  the  game-trails  and  tho  report)  of  tho  Indians.  At  one  of  our  landings 
Colonel  Merriam  killed  a  black  bear  and  saw  two  others.  We  were  sorry  not  to  lie 
able  to  go  any  farther  up  the  lake.  It  Is  the  most  grandly  beantiful  body  of  water 
that  I  have  ever  seen.  Lying  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  Columbia, 
It  discharges  Its  waters  through  a  gorge,  a  oloft-llke  channel  u  mile  and  a  half  long 
and  only  a  few  feet  in  width. 

After  deciding  upon  the  location  of  the  post,  I  left  the  temporary  camp  to  go  to  tba 


\\- 


184 


COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


|ii 


Bpokane  Fall*  and  Fort  Cn>nr  d'A!Ane.  The  conntry  travenml  wait  nearly  all  rolling 
bnncli-grasH  land  of  the  riohnat  deacription,  and  tlio  moat  of  whioli  will,  I  believe,  bo 
available  for  raiaing  grain, 

WALLA   WALLA  SEOTIOK. 

The  Wnlla  Walla  p,oction,  bounded  on  tlie  north  by  the  Snake  and  Go- 
Innibia  Rivers  and  on  the  Hontb  by  the  Blue  MonntainH,  is  too  well  known 
for  ony  dencription  here  to  l)e  necessary. 

YAKIMA  SECTION. 

The  Takima  section  is  snffioiently  described  in  another  iiortion  of  this 
report. 

LKWISTON  AND  MOUNT  IDAHO  SECTION. 

Tlie  Lewiston  and  Mount  Idaho  section  alone  remains  to  be  notico<l. 
Tills  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  caHt  by  the  Glearwatcr,  on  the  west 
by  the  Snake,  and  on  the  south  by  the  Salmon  Biver,  and  altliough  it 
can  scarcely  be  considered  a  part  of  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Golumbia,  it 
is  intimately  connected  therewith. 

Denudation  has  done  a  wonderful  work  here.  One  standing  on  the 
highlands  to  the  north  of  the  Glearwsiter  and  looking  to  the  south  sees 
Craig's  Mountains  as  a  level  plain,  covered  with  timber.  This  platean 
of  Graig's  Mountains  has  an  elevation  of  4,300  feet  above  the  sea  and 
3,000  feet  and  more  abovi  its  encircling  rivers.  The  rivers  have  cut 
through  this  elevated  plateau,  and  the  local  waters  have  washed  it  down 
into  gradual  slopes  toward  them.  Standing  on  the  easteni  edge  of  this 
I)lateau  and  looking  to  the  east,  one  can  contemplate  the  almost  incred- 
ible work  that  has  been  done  in  sculptiunng  the  country  to  its  present 
form ;  he  can  readily  see  that  the  plateau  on  which  he  stands  is  a  frag- 
ment of  an  immensely  greater  plateau  which  at  one  time  extended  iiu- 
brokeuly  away  to  the  east,  to  the  distant  summit  chains  of  the  Bitter 
Boot  Mountains,  and  that  tlie  great  canons  of  the  rivers  surrounding 
him,  and  those  seen  in  the  distance,  in  which  flow  the  many  branches 
of  the  Glearwatcr  and  Salmon,  have  all  been  excavated  from  the  pla- 
teau on  which  he  stands.  Any  conceivable  time  will  api)car  to  him  too 
s'  '•rt  for  the  work  before  him. 

Upon  the  plateau  of  Graig's  Mountain  the  frosts  are  too  severe  to 
allow  of  agriculture,  but  in  all  the  low  country  about  it  the  soil  is  of 
extreme  richness.  A  large  portion  of  the  section  is  taken  up  by  the 
Lt^wai  or  Nez  Perc4  Indian  Beservation.  To  the  southeast  of  Graig's 
Mountain  lies  Gamas  Prairie,  a  very  fertile  region,  in  which  are  situ- 
ated the  towns  of  Orangeville  and  Mount  Idaho. 

The  only  outlet  of  this  Gamas  Prairie  country  is  by  the  wagon-road 
over  Graig's  Mountain,  which  is  excellent  in  the  summer  and  autumn, 
.but  almost  impassable  during  the  winter  and  spring. 


COLnMBIA   niVER. 


125 


CHAPTER   XI. 

T/IK OSOGIiAPIIWAL  NOUXNCLA TVRB  OF  THK  COL  VMBIA  RI VKB  BEO ION. 

The  subject  of  the  geographical  names  of  a  country,  their  originn, 
meanings,  inodiflcations,  changes,  loss,  and  flnal  ailoption  is  one  of  ab- 
sorbing interest,  e8i)ecially  to  the  student  who  wishes  to  trace  the  history 
of  his  country  ttom  its  earliest  settlement  t4)  its  full  development. 

The  geographical  names  in  this  country  of  the  Columbia  are  derived 
from  the  following  sources : 

1.  Indian  names. 

2.  Names  given  by  <he  e&rly  navigators  of  Spain,  England,  and  the 
United  States. 

3.  Names  given  by  the  early  explorers,  as  Lewis  and  Clarke,  Bonne- 
ville, Fremont,  and  others. 

4.  Names  given  by  the  early  fur  traders. 

6.  Names  given  by  the  flnal  and  permanent  settlers. 

In  regard  to  the  first  of  these  sonrces,  it  is  of  course  highly  desirable 
to  retain,  ns  far  as  possible,  the  names  of  places  as  given  by  the  Indians. 
This  is,  however,  often  rendered  extremely  difflcnit,  from  the  fiust  tlint 
the  same  thing  may  receive  different  names  from  different  tribes,  or  even 
from  the  same  tnbe,  and  that  Indian  names  often  are  simply  generic, 
ap])lying  to  all  or  many  things  of  the  same  sort.  As  example  may  be 
cited  the  different  names  given  to  the  Willamette  by  the  different  tril)08 
living  along  it ;  the  Snake,  also,  where  it  flowed  through  the  ralouse 
Indian  country  was  called  by  them  the  Palouse ;  where  it  flowed  through 
the  Nez  Perc^  country  it  was  called  the  Nez  Perc6,  and  through  the 
Snake  country  the  Snake."  Indian  names  are  often  of  such  extreme 
length  that  people  cannot  be  induced  to  retain  them.  Thus  the  Ne-hoi- 
al-pit-qna  Eiver  ha^  become  changed,  by  common  consent,  into  Kettle 
River,  and  is  so  called  even  by  the  Indians  themselves.  TIio  settlers  of 
a  country  rarely  have  sufficient  regard  for  their  savage  neighbors  to 
wish  to  retain  their  nomenclature,  and  the  consequence  is  it  is  soon  com- 
pletely replaced  by  one,  as  a  general  thing,  very  unpootical  and  common- 
place. 

The  Spaniards  have  loft  few  names  to  commemorate  tlieir  exph)ra- 
tions  along  the  coasts  of  Oregon  and  Washington.  The  names  givttn  by 
them,  generally  in  honor  of  some  saint  or  in  commemoration  of  some 
church  festival,  have  been  replaced  by  others  given  by  the  Englisii  and 
American  navigators  who  succeeded  them. 

Many  of  the  names  given  by  the  early  explorers  still  remain  and  will 
continue  so  to  do.  Where  they  are  not  Indian  names  tliey  were  gen- 
erally given  in  honor  of  some  public  functionary,  or  some  of  their  own 
men,  or  descriptive  of  some  peculiarity  or  occurrence. 


•Miillati. 


-:«■(  *,r*Ki 


126 


COLimnii,   RIVER. 


Tlio  nnmen  piven  by  tlio  ftivrly  ftir  titMlorfl  aro  chiefly  French,  iM  the 
voyageurn  woro  mostly  Froiioh  OanutliaiiH,  and  arc,  as  a  g«meral  thinf;, 
(leRcriptive,  aH  for  instanoo,  the  7>e»  Ohutet  River  or  Im  riridre  aux 
0hut4»,  tlie  river  willi  fallH;  "  Leg  Ballet  (let  MorU,"  the  Rapidn  of  the 
Dead  or  Death  Tlapids,  &c.  These  namen  have  in  many  iimtanceH  l)eon 
elianged  into  thei.'*  Kugliah  Bynonymn,  as  the  Ckaudiire  lias  l)ecomo 
Kettle  FalU. 

The  names  wliich  are  Anally  adopted  and  live,  belong  to  all  the  pre- 
cc<ling  classes  and  to  the  last  class,  or  those  given  by  the  pennanent 
settlors.  The  great  m(\jority  of  these  latter  names  refer  lr<  some  char- 
a(;t(^ristic,  and  its  many  places  have  the  same  characteristics  it  results 
that  there  are  a  great  numlwr  of  Willow,  Kock,  Trent,  Mill,  Salmon, 
and  Cottonwood  Creeks,  &o.  This  multiplicati<>i<  of  objects  bearing 
the  same  name  is  a  groat  inconvenience  at  times.  Many  names  are 
given  in  rt^nombrance  of  localities  in  distant  States  and  foreign  lands, 
as  Portland,  Albany,  Damascus,  &c.,  or  in  honor  of  some  distinguished 
citizen  of  the  world,  as  Colfax,  Astoria,  Mount  Jefferson,  Abert  Lake, 
Vancouver,  &o.  Many  are  given  in  honor  of  the  first  or  some  promi- 
nent settler  in  the  locality,  as  for  instance  Wilson  Creek,  Prineville, 
Powell's  Valley,  Applegate  Creek,  Bitzville,  &c. 

Some  names  show  in  a  high  degree  the  poetical  and  religions  a8])ira- 
tions  of  those  giving  them,  as  for  instance  Aurora,  Zion,  Sweet  Home, 
Sublimity,  Buttcroup,  Olad  Tidings,  Corvallis,  &c. 

Tn  the  works  relating  to  the  Columbia  region  I  have  fonnd  a  great 
diversity  in  the  manner  of  spelling  certain  names  as  well  as  in  the 
names  themselves,  nnd  as  there  have  been  articles  written  about  some 
of  those  names,  and  the  pro])er  mode  of  spelling  eiiem  discussed,  I  give 
in  the  following  pages  such  information  in  regard  to  them  as  I  have 
Iteen  able  to  gather. 

The  proper  and  complete  study  of  the  geographical  names  of  this  re- 
gion would  take  vastly  more  time  and  labor  than  I  have  l)een  able  to 
devote  to  it.  It  is  to  be  hoiteil  that  some  one  may  take  up  the  subject 
ami  carr^-  it  to  completion. 

OCBUB  D'ALfiNE. 

This  name,  which  literally  translated  means  "  heart  ofawl^  was  ap- 
pHoil  to  the  Indians  living  about  the  lake  which  now  bears  this  name, 
by  the  French  voyageurs  and  partners  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. 
These  Indians  used  to  come  to  Spokane  Honse  with  the  furs  which  they 
had  gathered  to  trade.  Tliey  brought  them  of  such  fine  quality  and  In 
such  quantity  that  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  deemed  it  desirable  to 
establish  a  branch  post  among  them,  and  made  them  a  proposition  to 
that  effect.  To  it  the  Indians  replied  "  No ;  that  their  country  was  so 
Itcautiful  that  when  the  white  men  saw  it  they  would  want  it  for  them- 
selves ;  that  they  were  willing  to  come  to  Spokane  House  and  trade, 
but  that  they  did  not  want  the  white  men  to  come  into  their  country." 


COLUMUIA   BIVER. 


127 


Thuy  were,  nioruovur,  very  Hharp  and  onto  at  hurgaiiiiiiKi»ii«l  wcreuon- 
Hidered  the  ''  Yankees"  of  the  Indian  ritce.  The  wliit«H*i;avo  tlieni  the 
name  of  Oosur  d'Alfinoa,  "  Awl-heartH,"  "  yiuirii-heurtH,"  or  "  Poiutod- 
huartfl,"  as  imlicativo  of  their  ohariMitera  aa  8linr|t«r8  and  cheats  at  Itar- 
gaining,  and  on  iux)ouut  of  tlieir  p<«r8iHt«nt  refusal  to  allow  tlie  wliitu 
men  to  come  Hinnng  them.  Thia  origin  of  the  name  was  given  niu  by 
Father  EuIIh,  of  the  (Jheiiiakane  Mission.  It  is  al)out  the  same  ivs  that 
given  by  Lieutenant  Mullan.  Cwur  d'Aldne  Lake  was  called  by  ita 
Indian  name  of  Bketch-hugh  Lake,  by  Alexander  lloss. 

A.  N.  Armstrong,  a  writer  on  Oregon  and  Washington  Territory,  in  a 
book  written  in  IMTiG,  gives  the  following  explanation  concerningtheaii- 
pellatiou  Oceur  d'Alfine,  as  applied  to  the  *'  Skitauuih  or  Couur  d'AKino 
Indians" : 

Ainoii({8t  thu  flnt  trMluni  that  vUited  this  tribe  wiw  u  Canndiaii  of  a  oIinh),  nig- 
gardly dlHiMNiltlun.  The  nutivos  wnro  not  long  In  dlttuovcring  thU,  and  made  in  tliuir 
own  lunguago atlorUivu  rvniark  roHpuuting  him,  tu  tho  oD'ovt  that  "thu  whlto  ninn  hiMl 
the  heart  of  an  awl,"  nienuing  that  ho  hod  a  contraotvd,  illiberal  diii]Mmition  ;  the 
term  "  awl"  being  UMud  by  thoui  as  wo  Honiutimus  use  tint  word  "  pin,"  to  donute  u 
very  trifling  obJe<it.  The  interpreter  rendered  the  iientenue  "  C<uur  d'AWno,"  greatly 
tu  the  amnsonient  of  the  trader's  companions,  and  frciu  that  day  to  this  tho  tribe  has 
been  known  as  the  Ciuur  d'AlAne  Indians. 

I  am  inclined  to  give  the  latter  explanation  credence  over  the  former, 
as  it  seems  to  me  more  reasonable,  and  from  tho  fact  that  the  oarly  tra- 
ders did  go  among  those  Indians  and  trade  with  them,  and  a  mission 
Wiis  established  on  thoir  lauds,  to  which  they  did  not  seriously  object. 

lioss  Cox,  one  of  tho  first  party  of  the  Astorian  fur  traders  to  go  into 
their  vicinity,  and  whose  book,  published  in  1832,  gives  about  the  lirst 
account  of  the  country  ever  published,  says : 

The  Pointed  Hearts,  or,  as  tho  Canadian 9  call  thorn,  los  Cumrs  d'AlAnos  (Hearts  of 
Awls),  are  a  small  tribe  inhabiting  the  shures  of  a  lake  about  ■'iO  miles  to  thu  eastward 
of  Sp/kano  House.  Their  country  is  tolerably  wrll  stocked  with  b«»vcr,  deer,  wild 
fowl,  &e.,  and  ittt  vegetable  productions  are  similar  to  those  of  Spoksno.  8ome  of  the 
tribe  occasionally  visited  our  fort  at  the  latter  pliuw  with  furs  to  barter,  and  wu  made 
a  few  excursions  to  their  lands.  We  found  them  uuiformly  honest  in  their  tralUc,  but 
they  did  not  evince  tho  same  warmth  of  friendship  for  us  as  the  Sf<»kauvs,  uud  ox- 
pressed  no  desire  for  the  establishment  of  a  trading  {Hwt  amoi  '>i  <,  They  are  in 
many  respects  more  savage  than  their  neighbors,  and  I  have  bo«>..  >  .i.jc  of  them  often 
eat  deer  and  other  meat  raw.  They  are  also  more  unfeeling  husbands,  and  frequently 
beat  their  wives  iu  a  oniel  manner. 

VXLOVSE, 

This  word  seems  to  be  a  corruption  of  the  French  word  pelousc — 
greensward,  lawn,  &c.  It  is  very  descriptive  of  the  country  to  which 
it  is  applied,  which  is  a  rolling  bunch-grass  covered  section.  It  is  writ- 
ten "  Polouse"  by  many  old  writers.  Notwithstanding  these  facts  there 
la  a  strong  probability  that  the  word  from  which  it  is  derived  is  an  In- 
dian word.  Lewis  and  Olarke  call  the  Indians  inbaibitiiig  the  country 
to  the  north  of  Snake  Biver  in  the  lower  part  of  its  course  the  Selloat — 


128 


OOLUMUIA   RIVEB. 


}MUalu.  I'uIIuliH  (uul  Pnlouae  are  very  aiiiiilttr  iu  Hoaml.  A1«xni>«ler 
llOHH,  whuii  about  to  Hturt  on  a  trip  »ftvr  fUrH,  iu  iiuiuinj;  over  tbe  In- 
(liuuH  witli  liiui  HiHsalcH  of  a  Palooche,  wliiuh  iit  uIho  Hiniilar  to  I'uloiiae. 
ItoHH  uIho  H|Mtul<H  of  tliu  ludiuuH  liviug  aloiiKBiiaku  Uiver  as  tlie  Pnllet- 
U)J'alla$,  the  Siiaw-im-ap-teuH,  au«l  tlie  ratcluoh,  &c.  I'uIIuh  aud  Paw- 
lucli  botli  are  vury  Minilar  in  aoand  to  Pulouse. 

Tlie  Iiitit4)ry  of  the  wonl  would  then  Beeni  to  be  that  it  is  an  original 
Indian  word  similar  in  sound  to  the  French  word  pelouae,  whiuh,  on 
acc«)unt  of  the  early  inhabitants  being  largely  French,  oanie  to  be  con- 
vjdered  as  the  original  word,  and  that  this,  in  the  course  of  events,  was 
changed  to  the  spelling  now  generally  adopted,  Palouse. 

Tlic  names  by  which  the  Palouse  Itivur  has  been  known,  as  given  by 
dilt'ercnt  writers  whoso  works  I  have  consulted,  are  as  follows: 

Avqiiu-ayu-aeep.    Iiiiliun  iittiiio.    Mullan. 

Druwyur'ij  Uivur.    Lowiit  and  Clarke. 

Puvilioii  llivur.    A.  Kuan. 

I'uviim  Rivor.    Irving. 

PulonHO  Rlvor.    Paul  K»no. 

Paluoe  or  Pavilion  Rivur.    Paul  Kano. 

Pulouso  and  Palooao.    Mullon. 

Pelouso,    St«iito«. 

PuluuHU.    Wright. 

Polonso.    Pacific  Railroad  Roporta. 

Pulnso.    Pocillo  Railroad  Roporta. 

Pavilion  Rivur.    Ruv.  S.  Parker. 

PalooMO.    AnuHtrung. 

HPOKANB. 


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Whcthi'r  to  put  the  final  e  on  this  word  has  been  a  much-discussed 
question,  and  bos  divided  the  people  of  the  Spokane  region  into  two 
]iarties.  A  majority,  however,  seem  to  desire  tbe  e,  and  so  it  will  Anally 
be  adopted,  in  all  probability,  and  go  down  to  futurity.  There  seems  to 
be  about  as  much  authority  for  spelling  it  one  way  as  another.  The 
only  clew  that  I  have  been  able  to  obtain  to  the  meaning  of  the  word  iis 
in  the  book  of  Itoss  Cox,  where  he  speaks  of  the  chief  of  the  Indians  of 
the  region  as  Illm-l^oJcanSe,  which  means  the  "  Son  of  the  Sun."  From 
this,  and  from  the  nature  of  the  country  in  which  they  lived,  it  is  fair  to 
infer  that  their  tribal  name  meant  something  like  Children  of  the  Sun. 
They  lived  principally  on  the  great  sunny  plains  of  the  Spokane,  while 
many  of  the  neighboring  tribes  lived  iu  the  woody,  mountainous  regions 
of  Cceur  d'AlCno,  Pend  d'Oreille,  Kootenay,  and  Oolville  rivers. 

I  have  been  told  by  men  long  resident  in  the  country  that  the  original 
word  was  pronounced  with  a  slight  vowel  syllable  e  at  the  end — 8po- 
kan-e.  This  vowel  syllable,  indistinct  at  best,  was  soon  dropped  by  the 
busy  whites,  who  love  not  long  names. 

In  an  official  Oongressional  report  submitted  January  19, 1822,  and 
in  one  submitted  May  15, 1826,  the  post  at  Spokane  is  called  Lanton 


COLUMUIA   UIVKU.  129 

Hiid  liMiiton.  ThiH  iH  pnibubly  ttiu  tuuiiu  wonl  an  ImU-Uh),  niuiitiuiicil 
by  Miillun  an  thu  Indian  name  of  llanKniaii'ti  Cruok. 

In  H|>eakinK  of  tho  AHtorian  tnuliiiK  uHtubliahnunitH  tliumt  n«iK>i-t8  Hay : 
"One  of  tbrne  HubonlinaUt  eatabliHbnutiitt)  appitarH  to  liave  b»(eii  at  tb»! 
mouth  of  Ijcwi8  River  (Fort  Nez  PertXj  or  WaUa  Walla,  where  Walliila 
now  HtandH);  one  at  Lantoii  (8i>okane  Ilouse,  near  the  Juiietion  of  the 
H|M>kano  and  Little  Hpokauo  riverH);  a  third  on  the  Columbia,  00()  inilutt 
from  the  ocean,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Wantana  Itiver  (Fort  Okiiia- 
kane) ;  a  fourth  on  the  East  Fork  of  liCwiH  River  (I  l>elieve  thia  wtw  on 
the  Clearwater  at  the  mouth  of  Tmpwai  Creek,  where  the  Indian  agency 
now  IH,  but  I  am  not  oerUtin);  and  the  fifth  ou  the  Multnoma  (Willa- 
mette)." 

The  following  are  the  metbodu  of  HiHslliug  the  word  Hi^okaue,  aM 
aiKipted  by  dififerunt  writera: 

Hpokan Ofliulal  tranttt.  [.iipuni,  i'ucillo  Fur  Coinjtmiy  to  North- 
went  Fur  C'lHiipany, 

Hpokan Kou  Cox. 

8|>okaiie War  Deiiartraent  uiai>,  IKVi. 

8|H>kaiie Couiniixlorc  Wilkmi. 

Spokein Knv.  8.  Parkiir.    TIiIh  writor,  who  viHittMl  tlio  country  in 

1K)6,  says:  "The  nitirin  of  thin  nation  in  Konerally  will- 
ten  8|iokan,  aomutinieH  Spokane.  I  culluil  thuni  HiiokHiiH, 
but  thoy  corrected  my  pronunciation  itiul  Haiti  Spiikmn, 
and  this  they  repeated  sovoral  tinieH,  until  I  watt  con- 
vinced that  to  give  their  name  a  correct  pronunciation  it 
should  be  written  Spokein." 

Spokan Orecuhnw. 

Spokain ...McVickar. 

Simkaii Nath.  J.  Wyoth'8  report,  1889. 

Spokane..... Roltertsou. 

Spokane Thornton. 

SiMikane A.  Kow. 

Spokan Franchere. 

Spokan Irvln);. 

S|>okaii Natioual  Railroad  Memoir. 

S|Kikan ArniHtroni;. 

Spokan St.  John. 

Spokane Pacific  Railroad  KeportH. 

Spokane Mnllan. 

Spoken  Robertaon  and  Crawfonl. 

OKINAKANE. 

I  have  never  been  able  to  deteruune  the  meaning  of  thiH  v/ord.  It 
haM  iMien  »i)elle<l  in  a  great  variety  of  wayH,  and  it  iH  diflicult  to  adopt 
a  spelling  which  will  be  natisfactory  to  all.  The  above  is  the  spelling 
as  adopted  in  the  Pacific  Railrotul  Survey  Reports  and  the  Northern 
Boundary  Survey  Reiwrts. 

The  Okinakane  is  caUe<l  the  Wantana  River  in  Congressional  repoi-ts 
of  1822  and  18!^,  referring  to  a  military  establishment  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia. 

S,  Ex.  186 —  17 


180  COLUMBIA    RIVER. 

The  following  show  the  niodcT  of  npolling  the  word  by  diiferent  au- 
thors : 

Otohonankano Lewis  and  Clarko. 

Oknnaakau Official  transfer  papura,  PaciHc  Fur  Conipanj  to  North- 
west Fur  Company. 

Oakloagan Koss  Cox. 

Okonakan Franchore. 

Oknnagr.n War  Department  map,  IBIiH. 

Okaungan Cusliing's  Rep-^<-t. 

Oknagan Nathaniel  Wyeth. 

Oknagen Nathaniel  V/yeth. 

Oakenagen H.  J.  Kelly. 

Okonagan Commodore  Wilkes. 

Okanagan Rev.  8.  Parker. 

Okinagan Orcenliow. 

Okanagan Ro1i(;rtHon. 

Okonagan Thornton. 

Oakanagnn..... A.Rosii. 

Oakanazan A.Rom. 

Oakinackeu A.  Rosfi, 

R<' «  B.tys  Indian  name  for  Okinakane  Lake  is  8a\vth-le- 
Iniii-tak-nt. 

Okinikaine V.';.rner. 

Oakinagan Irving. 

Okanagan National  Railroad  Memoir. 

Okanegan National  Railrotul  Monioir. 

Okinakane Paoiflu  Kailrosul  Reports. 

Okanagan Paul  Kane. 

Okinakane Northern  It<inndary  lieport. 

Okinakane Mnllan. 

Okinagan - McVii^kar. 

Okuanagans Kobertnon  and  >.'' awfurd, 

Okonagan R.  M.  Alartin. 

Okanagan Armstrong. 

NKZ  PEBC:S, 

As  applied  io  the  Iiidiiin  tribe,  Ih  a  iiiiBiionier.  Lewis  and  Olarke  rcMord 
their  arrival  among  the  (Jliopunnisli  or  I'ierced  Nose  Indians,  «*  they 
call  thcm.ielvc*.  No  writ<;r  has  ever  accused  them  cf  piei'cing  their 
noses,  aud  it  is  certain  that  they  never  did  so  excei)t  in  very  isolattjd 
cases,  if  at  all.  They  have  b«  :u  described  by  a  number  of  early  ex- 
plorers, but  thip  custom  has  never  aeen  muutioned.  It  is  certain  that 
they  do  not  do  so  now. 

PLAT-HEAD, 

A»  applio(^  to  the  tribe  of  Indians  inhabiting  the  country  about  the 
heiMlwfttbfS  of  the  Columbia  auu  Missouri,  is  a  misnomer.  These  In- 
dians novrr  were  guilty  of  the  deforining  habit  of  flfittcnijig  t'>e  hi  <ids 
of  their  children.  Mauy  writers  have  described  them  and  none  ha\e 
mentioued  the  custom,  although  it  has  been  repeatedly  describe<J  as 
being  practiced  by  the  Lower  Columbia  Indians.    Their  Indian  name, 


COLIIMIUA    ItlVKR.  181 

as  they  call  themselves,  is  ffelixh,  acconlingr  to  most  writers,  the  mean- 
ing of  wliich  I  do  not  know. 
The  Rev.  S.  Parker,  who  traveled  among  them  in  183.'),  says: 
I  wii«  (liHappointcl  in  «enin«  nothing  poeiiliar  iu  the  Klathoa<l  Iwliiiiw  togivo  tlium 
their  immo     Who  gave  it  f.  them,  or  for  what  rcwon,  in  not  known.    The  name  given 
tlioni  by  the  Nc/,  Porc68,  which  is  ,Snil,p  dons  not  signify  tlatheail. 

COLUMBIA  EIVER. 

The  Golumhiu  River  was  first  called  the  Oregon,  from  the  mention  of 
the  name  by  (Jarver. 

Iv  1575  it  was  called  AHHumption  Inlet,  by  Hecota.  In  the  ch;*rts  of 
his  voyage,  soon  after  published,  it  was  called  Ennefiada  de  Heeeta,  and 
Rio  de  Nan  Roqiie. 

In  1789  it  was  called  Deception  Bay,  by  Meares. 

In  1792  Gray  called  it  the  Gohmhia.  Captain  Clarke  says  that  in 
1805  the  Indians  called  it  the  Shoeatilam,  and  another  tribe  callwi  it 
ChocUUhm,  both  being  the  same  name,  <iifferently  pronounced,  in  all 
probability.  This  Indian  name  very  probably  signifies  Water-friend,  or 
Iriendly-water.  In  the  Chinook  language  Chuck  signifies  wat«^r,  and 
ttUtcmn  friend ;  hence  the  name  Chuck-tillicum,  or  Shocatikum. 

SNAKE   Bn-EE. 

^  The  Snake  River  was  called  Lewis  iliver  by  CapUina  Lewis  and 
Clarke.  Its  Indian  name  was  Saptin,  ar  Sahaptiu,  Shoshone,  I'alouse, 
Ne«  Perc<-',  or  Cho-punnish  River,  the  name  varying  with  the  different 
Indmn  tribes  inhabiting  its  bordering  country. 

YAKEMA. 

Yakima  har.  been  spelled  a  variety  of  ways : 

^'J'"'*^''""' Jt^owiH  and  C'lnrl«''»  tv]mrt. 

E-yaflit-ini-ah A.  K<»hh, 

*^'""""' National  R.ailroad  memoir. 

yatkai>',n Rotw  Cox. 

^"■^"oa. PaciHe  Kailroad  RcpoHN. 

'''''I'*'*"'* LowiB  and  Clarke's  mrt^j. 

'l'*I"»*«l'> Hector  and  Bober...     ,'s  map. 

Tapetolle l^'inley's  map. 

Eyakema War  Dopartniei    lunp,  imH. 

Eyakenia Robertson. 

Yakimii, Commodore  Wilkes. 

Eyivkama I'aw!  Kane. 

'^likimn. Thornton. 

DES   CHUTES. 
JkJt  Ohuten  Rirer,  called  Tm  Riviere  auw  Chuten  by  Frdmont  and  the 
early  French  voya^eurs,  often  called  Falls  River  by  the  early  settlers 
and  finally  changed  t«  Des  Chutes  River.    Its  Indian  tiame  wa«-       ' 

To-wah-na-hiooks According  to  Lewis  and  Clarke. 

To-war-nah-cooks According  to  Finlev's  map. 

To-war-njv-he-em.ks. ......  According  to  BectoV  and  Boberdean. 

^'^«'-"""' Acconllng  to  Alexander  Ross. 


If 


132  COMIMHIA    I.MVKR. 

..    ,:  '  iriLVTILLA. 

UnMtilUi  has  been  spelled  as  follows : 

IJmatallow War  Pcpartiiient  map,  IHflH. 

yoii-iua-talla Alexander  Koas. 

Uniatallow Alexander  Koos. 

Uniatalla Irving. 

Euo-tal-la Irving. 

Yonr-nia-talla Rector  and  Roberdean's  map. 

Uinatilali Fremont. 

Umatilla National  Railroafl  Memoir. 

Umatillali Mnllan. 

Umatilla Mnllan. 

Umatfllla Rev.  S.  Parker, 

HANOMAN'S  CEEEK. 

This  beantiful  creek  took  its  detestable  appellatioti  from  the  fact  that 
on  its  banks  in  1858  Colonel  Wright  caused  to  be  hung  the  Indians 
captured  by  him  who  had  been  guilty  of  murder  and  other  crimes. 

Its  Indian  names  given  by  Mullau  were  Nedlewhauld,  Nedwhauld, 
Lahtoo,  or  Oanias-prarie  Greek. 

It  would  be  highly  commendable  to  the  people  of  the  section  if  they 
would  «',hanpe  the  name  from  Hangman's  to  Lahtoo  or  Nedlewhauld 

Creek. 

BOOK  CBEEK. 

In  Eastern  Washington  Territory  Mullar  says  tills  was  known  to  the 
Talouse  Indians  as  the  Wah-rum,  ur.d  to  the  Spokanes  as  the  Oray- 
tay-ous,  aud  the  upper  part  of  it  as  the  Sil-seip-o- vet-sen,  or  Sil-say- 
poowest-tsin. 

UNION  FLAT  CBEEK. 
TndJnn  name,  Smokle  Creek.    Mullan. 

PINK  CRKKK. 

Indian  name,  Tngossomen  Cre*k.    Mullau, 

STEPTOE  BUTTE. 

Named  for  Colonel  Stept^e,  who  wa«  «lefeated  on  the  Butto  by  the 
Spokane  and  other  Indians,  called  Pyramid  Butt«  in  the  Pacific  Uail- 
road  Reports. 

It.s  Simkane  and  Ccenr  d'AlAne  Indian  name  was  Se-emptee-ta,  and 
its  Palouse  aiul  Ne/-  Perce  nami  m\s  E-o-mosli-toss.    Mullan. 

WENATOHEB. 
Calhd— 
Wall  na-acha.  by  Lewis  and  Clarke. 
Pisscows,  by  Alexander  Itoss. 


COLIJMHIA    RIVER. 


133 


Pisquonse  or  Wenatslmpani :  Pacsiflc  Ilailroiwl  Ileport«. 
Piscoiis :  War  Department  map,  1838. 
Piaclioiw :  Commodore  Wilkes. 

Waiiiape:  Oalled  by  some  of  the  lutiiaiis,  aceonliiig  to  (Commodore 
Wilkes.    None  of  the  early  writers  called  it  tli«»  Wi  Matcliee. 

METHOW. 

Called— 
Meati'ow  and  Buttle-mnle-emaneli  or  Salmon  Fall  River,  by  A.  Koss. 
Barrier  River:  ComnKMlore  Wilkes. 

lawyer's  caSon  and  opsbk. 

Nf«med  for  Lawyer,  a  liend  chief  of  the  Nez  Porces. 

TACOMA. 

Tiumna  is  the  Indian  name  for  Mount  Ranier,  and  signifies  the  A'owr- 
inhing  hiew.i.  This  name  was  given  it  probably  both  on  account  of  its 
shape  and  from  the  fiict  that  it  is  a  great  <enter  from  which  rivers  flow 
in  every  direction,  nourishing  the  land  ai;  i  sn|)plying  fish.  This  is  the 
immo  of  the  highest  iind  grandest  monntaiii  in  Washinulon  Territory, 
and  it  is  the  hope  of  many  peo))1i'  that  when  a  State  is  formed  of  the 
Territory  it  may  re«!eive  the  nan  l'A('()MA. 


i  it 


wmmm 


X 


MAP  OF  THE  UPPER  COLUMBIA  RIVER, 

FROM  THE  INTKRNATIONAL  BOUNDARY  LINE  TO  SNAKE  RIVER, 

OiV  A  SCALE  OF  ONE  INCH  TO  TWO  MILES. 

26  SHEETS  AND  AN  INDEX  SHEET. 

FROM  SURVEYS  AND  EXAMINATIONS  MADE  IN  1881, 

BY 

LiKur.  THOMAS  W.  SYMONS,  CoiU'S  of  Knoinkkiis, 

Chkf  Engineer,  Department  o/theColumbia, 

AND 

ALKUKD  DOWNING, 
To])Oijraj)hival  Assistant,  V.  S.  Army. 


Drawn    by    A-LB^KKD    DOWNING-. 


ThoHc  Hhcota  ftii^  uiiiiilHsred  riinset^iitlvBly  from  tlin  boiiiiilAry  to  Snaka  Kiver,  »ud  lam  be  loiDed 
together  into  one  alioct  if  dosircKl,  HbowliiK  the  river  cuntiDiioiiiiIy. 


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